It is either a D2S or a D4S bulb You can tell the difference between D2 and D4 lights looking at the bulb base. But you can probably determine what you need from this link here: https://kensun.com/blogs/news/factory-hid-bulb-types
The installation took me about 2-2.5 hours and I did it by myself in my driveway. If you have a friend or an extra set of hands help you on the part where you hold the step up to the brackets and bolt them down that will make things easier. One other thing I will suggest is to use some blue loctite on the bracket bolts that hold the brackets to the truck. Mine vibrated loose and I found out it was a semi common thing with some trucks so I applied the Loctite (threadlocker) and it's been perfect since (over a year now). Other than that, just take your time and you will love them.
So I am one of the few that did this a few months back because I had a bad pedal that was throwing a P2138 code. After some research I found others had the same issue and it was one of 2 things. The accelerator pedal or the connector going to it. Others also mentioned that they had their CEL go on when taking hard left turns (just like I had attempted). Thinking back, the last few times it happened I was taking left turns as well. Left into work, off the main road into my parking lot, and also a hard left turn on a winding road going uphill. So this all makes sense. So it appears that GM has revised it in 2017, and the older version (that I have in my truck now since it is a 2014) is discontinued. Another benefit from replacing the pedal is that people reported that the response time (at least in the trucks that had the older version of the pedal) has improved and the lag was reduced a little bit. So soon I picked GM Part number 23362231 A T27 socket and 2 bolts later I had the old one out and was able to put the new one in. No programming was necessary and the drivability of the truck was a night and day difference. The first 1/3 of the pedal used to be a dead zone, and it is not anymore. The response is instant and smooth all the way through out. As a note, I have a wood brace under the pedal frame to stiffen up the assembly as well, and that has been in the truck since the day I bought it. So anybody running a truck that is a 16 and older can benefit from this.
How many devices (cars, external remotes, keypads, etc...) do you have connected to your garage door opener? The reason I ask is that your memory on the opener is probably full, since it still remembers the old vehicles and such. I would look up the instructions on resetting the memory on the garage door opener and then reprogram the vehicles and the clickers that you have. I had to do the same thing last year when I bought my truck, as I have too many devices and the garage door opener cannot remember all if the devices that I have.
It does now, but it did not before. When I complained about it it was in April as well, so it was not in usual seat heater season. I would suggest trying a laser thermometer to prove they don't work, or go to a different dealer.
Where in NY are you? I've done full exhaust systems in previous vehicles (including headers) and had no issues with passing inspection. I used to bring one of my vehicles to the dealership to inspect just because it was easier for me (and that car was highly modified). As long as you don't have a CEL you should be good to go.
I know that the butt portion on the seats are prone to failure. Mine did when I purchased my truck last year (2014 1500LTZ) and the dealership confirmed that and replaced it under warranty for me. I could feel my back getting warm, but not my butt.
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