I have a 2017 Silverado WT that had the I03 radio. I installed the Denali cluster, an Alpine I209-GM radio, and the upgraded steering wheel with the buttons that control the DIC. See post below. There are also pictures in the thread.
The video at the link below describes the operation of the torque converter clutch with respect to current gear and whether the transmission is upshifting or downshifting. According to the video, the stock program from GM has the torque converter clutch lock up in each gear as the transmission shifts from 1st gear through 6th gear. This also occurs while the transmission is downshifting. The person in the video recommends that the program be modified so that the torque converter clutch does not lock up in gears 1-4, upshifting or downshifting. This constant locking and unlocking of the torque converter clutch while downshifting may be what you are feeling. When I saw this video, I had already installed ECM and TCM tunes from Black Bear Performance. I asked BBP about the torque converter lockup setting and Jason replied that they set the torque converter clutch to not lock in gears 1-3. I have no issues with the way that my 2017 Silverado 5.3/6 speed shifts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHPzEG0m19w&feature=emb_rel_end I also had the dealer perform the "tripleflush" and replace my transmission fluid with the Mobile 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP fluid as indicated in TSB 18-NA-355. The dealership initially told me that the service was covered under warrantee, but when I went to pick up the truck there was a $230.00 bill waiting for me. The technician "couldn't feel the shudder during the test drive", so it wasn't covered.
I couldn't get the pictures to attach to the original post. The picture attached to this post shows the two mounting brackets. The one on the left is the 2500. The one on the right is the 1500. Also attached is a picture showing the differences in the thickness of the top lip of the step pads. The one on the left is the 2500.
I have a 2017 Silverado WT. It came with the dull black painted bumpers. I wanted to replace the rear bumper with a chrome bumper, and found one from a 2018 2500 on Craigslist. I have read several posts that claim it will fit, and several that say it won't fit. This is what I found. Before I purchased the bumper, I looked up the parts that make up the bumper assembly and found that the "face bar" was the same part number for one of the same style (with corner steps and without park assist). The step pad is not the same part number. I could tell that there was a "step-up" on each end. The bumper mounts are not the same part number either, but I didn't know why. I purchased the bumper and brought it home. Comparing the step pad to the one on my 1500, I could tell that it was also taller in the center. So tall that it would cover the Putco light that I had installed under the tailgate. I have read at least one post about trimming off the extra plastic in the center and it appeared that it could be done. Next, I removed the bumper from my Silverado. You do have to raise the bed so that the bumper bracket will clear when you pull the bumper out. Then I compared the mounting brackets from the two bumpers. I hoped that the difference between the brackets was that the 2500 brackets were more robust, but shaped the same. THEY ARE NOT. They look very close to the same and the holes are generally in the same location, but a closer inspection revealed that the distance between the holes is not the same. The 2500 bumper uses 4 bolts that screw into nuts welded to the bracket. The 1500 bumper uses a "twin bolt" with nuts that thread onto the bolts. If the holes lined up, this would not be an issue. But, as I said before, the holes don't line up. One of the attached pictures is of the 2500 bracket laying on top of the 1500 bracket. The top holes are lined up and you can see that none of the other holes line up. Since the brackets are not interchangeable, they had to be swapped from the old bumper to the new. To do this, the step pad had to be removed. This proved to be a difficult task. The access point for the spare tire winch had to be removed. To do this, a one-time use clip had to be cut off. The replacement clip is 2 pieces and $40.00 at the dealership. The pad had a bunch of clips and latches that had to be released in the correct order. Since I had to remove the step pad anyway, I decided to move my step pad to the new bumper so I did not attempt to trim the 2500 step pad to make it fit. Once the step pad was removed, the mounting brackets were easy to swap, 5 bolts on each side. With this done, I installed the step pad and the bumper was ready to install. The chrome bumper installation was straight forward, and with a little help from a jack, the bumper lined up with the body lines. So, in my experience, a rear bumper from a 2018 Silverado will not directly bolt onto a 1500 Silverado. The mounting brackets must be changed first.
I was in Cabela's today and saw these lights. I thought that they might work well as accent lights or cargo bed lights on my truck. They come in different colors if that is what you want. https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-slim-led-utility-strip-light
See this thread. The connector for factory bed lights is under the bed near the rear bumper. You can purchase a harness so that they come on when the bed light on the back of the cab comes on. You can also go one step further to connect the bed lights to the reverse lights using a diode so that the bed lights are on when the reverse lights come on. If it is dark outside, and you unlock the doors, the reverse lights come on. That makes your key fob the switch for the bed lights.
I was planning on doing this to my 17 Silverado WT, which didn't come with bed lights. I installed the bed lights and connected them to the unused connector under the bed. At this point, the bed lights came on when the bed light on the back of the cab came on. I then used a diode to connect the reverse lights and bed lights circuit. Now the bed lights come on whenever the reverse lights are on, which doesn't sound very useful until that you remember that every time you use the key fob to unlock the doors/tailgate the reverse lights come on for 30 seconds. That puts the switch to turn on your bed lights in your pocket. If you need more than 30 seconds, then press the unlock switch again for another 30 seconds.
I followed instructions from other posters in this forum for all that I have done. I have seen posts where someone has listed the parts required to add the factory bumper fog lights. Spend a few days reading through the forum and you will likely find that someone else has already figured out how to do what you want to do. You will probably also find some things that you want to do that you haven't even thought of! PGamboa and the guys from White Auto and Media Services (WAMS) have products that can make some mods much easier. I also highly recommend Black Bear Performance for tuning services. I installed a Black Bear tune and it really woke up the sleeping ponies under the hood.
There is a post in on this site where someone put a console in a truck with the floor shifter. There is a pocket on each side of the console and (if I remember correctly) this person cut the bottom out of the pocket area and the shifter fit right in there. I went with the Alpine unit because it has a 9 inch display and I like the way it looks a lot more than the Infotainment radios that GM truck come with. My son has a 2017 GMC and my radio sounds way better than his. Here's a picture of my truck now.
Welcome to the forum! I have a 2017 Silverado WT. I wanted the transfer case floor shifter, not the knob on the dash. So far I have added the Denali cluster, steering wheel with DIC buttons, and upgraded the radio with the Alpine I209-GM. I don't like the I06 GM radio, which is why I went with the Alpine. I've installed a level kit and replaced the steel wheels. I put lights in the bed and tied them to the reverse lights, so they come on when it is dark and I unlock the doors with the key fob. I put a Putco light bar on the back of the bed under the tailgate. I've also added some chrome. My next project is to replace the painted bumpers with chrome. I'm old school and I don't like the "dipped in paint" look.
I had a 2006 Silverado 2WD that had the shakes. I replaced the brake drums, balanced the tires, replaced the tires, replaced the U-Joints, and balanced the drive shaft. Nothing seemed to help. I did not attempt to tighten the U-bolts. I traded it for a 2017 Silverado 1500 WT 4WD. It drives and rides a lot better than the 2006 ever did. I used to live in Tennessee, and there was a tire shop in town that actually used a machine that would check the roundness of your tires and grind off the high spots if necessary. I was amazed at how far out of round a new tire could be. They resolved a lot of vibration issues by ensuring that the tires were actually round. If you want to install clamps on your leaf springs, wouldn't you want to do that when the weight of the truck was on the axle and the spring was compressed as it normally sits? If you install the clamp when the truck is jacked up and the wheel is removed, aren't you creating a preload on the spring when you put the tire back on and remove the jack? I know that springs don't move a lot, but a preload on the spring might make it more likely to cause a vibration. I recently installed aftermarket wheels on my 2017. It came with the painted 17 inch steel wheels. After the wheels were installed, I was looking at the bill and saw that I had been charged for "hub-centric rings" (https://www.discounttire.com/learn/hub-rings). They ensure that the wheel is properly centered on the hub. It makes sense that if the wheel is not properly centered on the hub, you will have a vibration even if the tire/wheel assembly is perfectly balanced. I had never heard of these before. It would have been interesting to try them on my 2006 when I still had it because it was a Southern Comfort model with the aftermarket chrome wheels. By the way, the steel wheels are for sale.
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