superdave160

Pictures for the steering wheel.

I have an instrument cluster and steering wheel from a 2017 Silverado WT. Both were removed when I upgraded to the Denali cluster. The instrument cluster is the most basic cluster that was installed in these trucks, and the steering wheel is basic as well. The steering wheel has cruise control buttons, but no buttons for the Display Information Center or radio controls. I do not need them any more and was about to throw them in the trash. I'll keep them for a little longer just in case someone on here wants them. I'm letting the items go for free, you just have to pay shipping. The cluster worked when removed and has been stored in a box since then. Let me know if you want them!

Look at these: Search on "Denali cluster". There's a lot to read in there about this.

I had a 2017 Silverado WT and I installed the Denali cluster and replaced the steering wheel to add the additional controls. The original steering wheel was the base wheel, I replaced it with a leather wrapped wheel. I believe that I had to add some wires to make it work, but it has been a few years. If you search on my name, you should be able to find the post that I wrote detailing the installation. I bought a programmed cluster from WAMS. For what its worth, you can also upgrade the radio so that it communicates with the cluster. I'm pretty sure that WAMS can help you with that as well. I didn't go that route, I replaced my base level radio with an Alpine unit. Because I had an aftermarket radio, there were a couple things that didn't display on the cluster because that data comes from the radio. The compass heading, for instance.

5 3/4 inches wide and just over 3 inches high

Harbor Freight has an attractive alternative. It has adapters for a variety of cars. Includes a reservoir so you can pour a quart in there and let it drain while you open another one.

I just noticed that your truck is a 2021. I don't know if they have front bumper light mounts for the new style Chevy/GMC trucks. I now have a 2025 2500 and I've been looking for bumper mounted light bar mounts for it and they don't appear to have them yet.

This is the website for the kit that I purchased. The picture below is my truck. https://zroadz.com/i-23909934-2016-2018-chevrolet-silverado-1500-front-bumper-top-led-kit-with-1-30-inch-led-straight-double-row-light-bar-pn-z322082-kit.html

The Harness Dr. sells conversion harnesses for upgrading mirrors. I went from power adjust/heated mirrors to tow mirrors that were power adjust, heated, turn signal, and reverse lights. I could have also added power fold but I didn't want that. I installed the mirrors and installed the harness that I got from the Harness Dr. and everything worked.

I had a front bumper mounted light bar from ZRoadz on my 2017 Silverado. It was easy to install and worked great.

I took it into the dealer yesterday and they confirmed that this is "normal." I don't know why an OEM would put untreated/unpainted steel under a new truck but that is where we are. There are some good suggestions above and I will decide what to do about it in the near future.

Last picture, I promise.

Another picture...

I have a 2025 Silverado 2500 4WD that I purchased near the end of December. I got under the truck today and noted that the metal parts of the front axle are covered with surface rust. Shouldn't those portions of the axle be powder coated or painted to protect the steel? The truck had less than 20 miles on it when I bought it, and less than 2,000 miles now. The truck was bought in Ft. Paine, AL and I live in Huntsville, AL, so no driving up north. Does anyone else have this issue?

I was a mechanic in the 80's and 90's and I've seen instances where cats overheat and cause odors in the cab. I've never seen any events where the differential vented enough fumes to be detectable in the cab. I worked on 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks with big tires and solid axles. I believe that it is more likely a cat issue causing the smell than the differential vent, which is why I posted my comment. If I am wrong then I am wrong. I was simply providing some information from my experience so that the person who posted the question could consider it.

I didn't see it mentioned earlier in this thread, but it could be the cats overheating. Take a code reader with live data display and see what the cat temps are when you smell the propane smell. The smell could be cause by heating of the adhesives and/or dyes in the carpet.

I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 with the 5.3 engine. I had the DOD delete done, installed a GPI stage 2 cam, and had the L86 intake manifold and throttle body installed at the same time. The truck ran like crap when I got it back. I had it dyno tuned and what a difference!

It's my understanding that the vacuum pump is required because the engine doesn't make enough vacuum when in 4 cylinder mode. If you have removed the DOD system from your engine, then you can also remove the vacuum pump and connect the brake booster to a vacuum source on your intake manifold. Check the "Mods" or "Engine" forums for posts on this issue.

Thanks for the information. Based upon this and other information provided, I believe the most likely cause of the idle misfire is likely a vacuum leak. Vacuum is highest at idle, so a vacuum leak (unmetered air entering the combustion chamber) would be much less noticeable away from idle. I'd say check for leaks around the intake manifold.

I'm wondering how the ECM determines that there is a miss on a single cylinder? If we knew this then it might help determine the cause of the issue. Does it somehow determine that the coil did not fire? Does it detect unburned gas in the exhaust? Knowing this may help in determining the cause. I would think that if it were a coil/wire/plug issue, then it would present itself under load, not at idle.

I have an Edge CTS3 display in my truck so that I can monitor (among other things) the current gear and TCC status. I recommend that you get something like this to connect to your truck so that you can see exactly what is going on. What you may be feeling is unexpected gear shifts, shifting multiple gears at the same time, or TCC activity. Most decent code readers can display the same thing as well. You could also have a sensor that is not working correctly that is causing the transmission to act in an unexpected manner. It may still be a bad transmission, but I'd feel alot better about pulling it after verifying that the sensors are functioning as expected.

When I had my Black Bear tune done several years ago, they provided me with EFI Live software to manage the tune files. I have found that you can open an change the settings of the tuning files. The EFI Live software isn't HP Tuners, but it does the exact same thing as HP Tuners. I have a 2017 Silverado with the 5.3 engine. I purchased a Black Bear tune for the engine and transmission shortly after I bought the truck and was very happy. Years later, I had a DOD delete performed, more aggressive CAM installed, and a 6.2L intake and throttle body installed. I reached out to Black Bear and they updated the tune. The truck still didn't run right and one of my major concerns was that the engine would die when I took my foot off the gas pedal while maneuvering around parking lots or other low speed situations. I sent Black Bear another recording and a description of the issue and they updated the tune again. This change also did not fix my issue. I ended up taking the truck to a local turner to have a dyno tune performed and he was able to resolve the issue. The tuner told me that the WOT portion of the tune was "spot on," but the part throttle areas of the tune needed to be adjusted. My truck now runs as it should, engine wise. The local tuner modified my transmission tune so that up-shifts didn't occur until the engine RPM was around 3K. That was obviously killing my gas mileage. I also found that the transmission downshifted to 2nd and 1st gear at the same speed. I discovered that I could open the part throttle shift tables and modify them to get the transmission to upshift and downshift at the speeds that I wanted. You must be very careful if you are going to do this yourself because the transmission will do exactly what is in the tables. You also have to match the TCC tables with the shift tables so that they work together as they should. This post is not intended to throw shade at Black Bear. If my current truck was totaled out and I had to purchase another one, my very first mod would be a Black Bear tune in my new truck. I just wanted to point out that, if you already have a Black Bear tune, then you have the tools to make some modifications yourself. Also, the further you get away from the delivered configuration, the more likely that you will have to have your truck tuned in person on a dyno to really make it right. I still believe that Black Bear provides a valuable service for unmodified or lightly modified trucks.

I spent about 18 months trying to get my truck to be drivable again after doing the DOD delete and installing a GPI stage 2 cam. When I got the truck back from the mechanic that did the DOD delete, it barely ran. If I put any load on the engine at all, the truck would surge (jerk forward and back). I took it to two different tuners and they didn't help it much. So, I started looking carefully at the work the mechanic did and found two things; first, the intake manifold wasn't torqued properly. Torqueing the intake manifold is a two-step process. The bolts are torqued to one value, then to a second value. The shop did not torque the bolts to the second value. After I fixed that, I still had a hissing noise when on the gas. I had the shop install a new intake tube that goes between the filter box and the throttle body when they did the DOD work. When installing the tube, two metal fittings must be screwed in to the tube. The tube has nuts molded in the plastic for the fittings. The shop screwed the fittings in until the nuts broke loose, creating an area for air to sucked into the intake that did not flow past the mass airflow sensor. I had to replace the tube. After getting all the air leaks fixed, the truck ran better but still wasn't right. Fuel mileage dropped significantly. The engine would die when I took my foot off the gas pedal. Idle speed varied at least 100 RPM, and the engine shook while idling. I bought an "OBD II display" and installed it in my truck so that I could monitor engine parameters in real time and found that the timing was being retarded way too much when the load increased. I found a shop (Carma Performance in Nashville, TN) that performed a dyno tune, and I have my truck back again. So, make sure that you don't have other issues that are affecting the tuning process. Trying to tune around an air leak or some other issue will cause undesirable operation. I took my truck to a different shop to run a smoke test to ensure that I found all the leaks. Another thing to consider is that the torque converter slipping may be a symptom of another problem. There is a lot of interaction between the engine and transmission in these trucks. The TCM may be reacting to something that the engine is doing. Look to see if some engine parameter is reacting at the same time that the transmission is slipping. With that being said, does your tuner also tune transmissions? There are a lot of improvements that can be made to the transmission tune if you haven't already done that as well.

I had a BlackBear tune on my bone stock 2017 Silverado and I was very happy with it. However, when you start to modify things, then you need a dyno tune to properly update all of the tables in the tune file so that the fuel/air mixture and other parameters are correct for your engine. That is also the issue with other "canned" tunes. They may make your truck better, but a dyno tune will get it much closer to perfect. I had a DOD delete, stage 2 cam and l86 intake and throttle body installed on my 5.3L engine. I recorded a file and had BlackBear update my tune. After I installed the tune, the engine would die whenever I took my foot off the throttle. I took it to a local "tuner." This guy worked with a tuner on the east coast. The local guy would record data, send it to the east coast guy, then the tune would be modified and loaded. The "tuner" had my truck 3 times, for 3 days each time, and didn't make any progress. I found a shop in Nashville, TN who did an actual dyno tune, and he resolved all of my engine issues. He told me that the WOT tune was spot on, which is what BlackBear did (they have you record a WOT run so that they can modify your tune using that data). However, the normal driving portion of the tune was not right until the shop in Nashville fixed my tune. And before I took it to Nashville, I thought that I could figure it out and fix it myself. NOPE! Way too much going on in all of those tables. My recommendation is to save yourself time, money and pain by finding a shop that does a dyno tune. I believe that you will be much happier with the result.

I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 WT with the 5.3L and 6 speed transmission, and I have learned quite a bit about the transmission lately. When the truck was bone stock, I had an engine and transmission tune from BlackBear Performance that I was really happy with. Before the transmission tune, there were clunks and jerks and a lot of the issues described by others in previous posts. From the factory, the torque converter clutch locks up in all 6 gears, when upshifting and down shifting (probably in reverse as well). The BlackBear tune prevents the torque converter from locking up in gears 1-3. That eliminated the issues when decelerating and in the lower gears. That is #1 on my list of recommendations. I also changed the 90 degree C. thermostat for the 70 degree C. thermostat. So now the transmission runs much cooler under normal conditions (#2). In January, 2023, I had the DOD delete done on my engine. Long story made short, I had LOTS of issues with the engine. In the process of getting my engine tuned, the transmission tune was changed as well. The shop that fixed my engine tune, changed the transmission tune so that it didn't shift gears until the engine RPM was a lot higher than before. I'm talking in the range of 3500 RPM for normal street driving and even higher when harder on the throttle. Well, around town fuel mileage went way down because my engine was revved all the time. I pulled the tune to look at it on my computer and I found that the main parameters that control when the transmission upshifts and downshifts are throttle position and speed. There are other modifiers, but those are the main parameters. I played with the shift speed until I had the transmission shifting when I thought that it should. Another issue that I had was that the transmission was very reluctant to downshift. If I was running 75 MPH on the interstate and started up a big hill, the speed would drop off and the engine timing would drop into the single digits (I have an OBDII monitor so that I can monitor spark advance, LTFT, STFT, gear, torque converter lock, etc.). When it did downshift it usually dropped 2 gears. It appeared to me that the upshift values were modified without modifying the downshift values to match. I adjusted those values as well so that it downshifts when it should. My current part-throttle shift table is copied below. Notice how the upshift values are slightly larger than the downshift values so that it won't toggle between two gears. Another issue is the torque converter lockup. Throttle position and speed also control torque converter lockup. If the gears are changing and the torque converter is locking and unlocking you will definitely feel it in the seat. As previously stated, I set the torque converter so that it will only lock up in gears 4-6. I set the torque converter lockup a few miles per hour higher than the 4th gear shift speed so that the transmission shifts into 4th gear and then speeds up a few more miles per hour before the torque converter clutch locks. I set the 5th and 6th gear shift speed and torque converter lockup speed to be the same. Essentially, once the torque converter locks up in 4th gear, it will remain locked in 5th and 6th gear. I tried giving 5th and 6th gear about 5 MPH of torque converter unlock speed and found that the transmission temperature got WAY hotter. I found that torque converter unlocked = hot fluid; torque converter locked = cooler fluid. So I attempt to keep the converter locked as often as possible, without constantly locking and unlocking. Understanding the effect that throttle position has on gear selection and torque converter lockup, if you are driving and reduce throttle input, then the transmission will likely upshift. If you then increase throttle, then it will likely downshift. And a quick decrease/increase on the throttle will likely cause the transmission to upshift/downshift very quickly, which makes it appear that the transmission is confused, but it is the throttle input that caused it. I tow a 5th wheel camper with my truck. I have found that the transmission shifts much harder after I have unhooked the camper. I use tow/haul mode when towing, and turn it off when not towing. Still, the transmission shifts harder after I unhook the camper. I have found that this condition will go away if a few days. I suspect that the transmission is "learning" the driving style when towing the camper, and it takes a little time to "unlearn" that data. I do not know if all GM 6 speed transmission have the same transmission tuning file or if they are different based upon gear ratio, tire size, or other parameters. I suspect that a quality transmission tune would help alleviate a lot of the shifting issues experienced by some owners.