superdave160

Chris, if you want a good dyno tune, I recommend Carma Performance in Nashville. I have a 2017 Silverado with the 5.3L and 6L80 transmission. I had a DOD delete, bigger cam installed, and L86 intake and throttle body installed in my truck. I had a local shop here in Alabama tune it and it was a train wreck. I took it to Carma Performance and the truck now drives like it should.

I have a 2017 WT and I installed a Denali digital cluster that I got from White Auto and Media. Works perfectly.

I had the same issue. I drilled the holes that were needed.

As I read your post, it reminded me of something that I have experienced with my 2017 Silverado. I do not have a lift on my truck, only the front end leveled. I also have factory size tires. If I'm driving with the transmission in 6th gear and the torque converter locked, and then ease down on the gas pedal, my engine will start making a "rattling" noise. If I ease up on the throttle it immediately goes away. I have found that if I use higher octane gas the noise is less likely to occur. In the last year, I have had a DOD delete, bigger camshaft installed, and an L86 intake manifold and throttle body installed. I took the truck to a local shop for tuning services, and that is when this rattling noise appeared. In fact, the first time that I drove the truck, not only was there a rattling noise, but the truck also "jerked" when the noise was present. I found that the intake manifold was not torqued properly and there was an air leak in the intake tube (the mechanic managed to crack it). After fixing those issues, the problem was still there but greatly diminished. I also purchased an Edge CTS3 display so that I could monitor engine data in real time. What I found was the noise was occurring when the engine spark timing was severely reduced. I monitor knock ****** on the CTS3 display and the noise is often accompanied by an indication that the timing is being reduced due to knock. Here are a couple tests that you could do to rule out/confirm that the issue is your engine. First, fill up with higher octane gas and see if the issue is reduced. Second, drive your truck until it is in one of the speed zones that you mentioned, then slowly ease down on the accelerator and see if the noise either appears or gets worse. If it comes and goes with pressure on/off the accelerator, then it may be your engine. I ended up modifying the tune myself and the truck is much better now.

I had planned on doing that mod and even purchased the parts. But before I installed the parts I learned about installing a diode between the reverse lights wire and the bed lights wire. The bed lights come on whenever the reverse lights come on. The reverse lights on our trucks come on when you unlock the doors and the BCM detects that it is dark outside. They only stay on for 30 seconds or so, so there is no chance of running the battery down. That puts the light switch on the key fob in your pocket. If the time expires and the lights go out before you are done, then just push the unlock button again.

I have the Alpine I209-GM in my 2017 WT and I love it. I went ahead and replaced the steering wheel so that I have functional audio controls on the steering wheel. I also added the Denali instrument cluster. I'm not sure that the I209-GM is available any more, but the Singer Off Road Heigh 10 is also a good option. https://stingeroffroad.com/products/silverado-sierra-2018-radio-kit

My truck was drivable before the tune was updated (I already had a custom tune before the DOD delete). However, the most likely problem that you will have if you have the mechanical work done and then want to drive the truck before you have it tuned will be at low RPM/idle. Larger cams want to have a higher idle speed.

If you are going to replace the cam anyway, why not go ahead and do a DOD delete as well? I have a 2017 Silverado with a 5.3L engine. I had the DOD delete done to my engine and had a stage 2 cam installed. I also had an intake manifold and throttle body off of a 6.2L engine installed. When I got my truck back, it did not run well at all. The mechanic was saying that I needed to have it tuned and the tuner said that there was a mechanical issue. Well, I found several mechanical issues and, now that they are resolved, it runs pretty good. It still idles rough but it appears to me that the tune is very lean at idle. It's going back to the tuner so that they can take another look at that. I also had the torque converter replaced with a billet model that has a higher stall speed. I pull a camper with my truck and I didn't want the torque converter to grenade and take out the entire transmission. If you put in a larger can without replacing the torque converter, you may have some low RPM issues such as surging when coming to a stop. With all that being said, the truck has WAY more power.

I had a DOD delete done to my truck (2017 w/5.3l) and it ran poorly when I got it back. Whenever I put a load on the engine by going uphill in a high gear, the truck would "buck." I managed this until I figured out what was going on by putting the transmission into manual and controlling the transmission gear myself. I also had to move my camper while my truck had this condition. While pulling the camper, I could not get above 4th gear (6 speed). I used 4th gear when the road was flat and had to drop to 3rd on the hills. I found that my intake manifold bolts were loose. There is a two-step torque sequence for the intake manifold bolts. The first pass is 45 in/lbs (I believe), and the second pass is something like 85 in/lbs. The shop that did my DOD delete torqued my intake bolts to the first value, but did not do the second value. This may not be your problem, but you mentioned that your truck was jerky after DOD delete and it sounds like what I went through.

Just to close the loop on this, I believe that my issue is with the EVAP system. I disconnected the fuel vapor line from the EVAP vent valve on the intake manifold. I then capped the port on the valve to seal it off. My issue seems to have disappeared. I'll drive it another week or so and, if it remains gone, I'll try to figure out what is wrong in the EVAP system.

I have a similar issue. My truck sometimes dies when maneuvering around parking lots when making small inputs to the gas pedal and then releasing. For instance, if I back out of a parking stall, it will die when I take my foot off the gas pedal to press on the brake pedal. When I'm backing my camper, it dies almost every time after I take my foot off the gas. I keep getting told vacuum leak as well, but I have been unable to find any leaks. I have sprayed ether and MAF cleaner around the intake manifold and could find no issues. While idling, the RPM would suddenly drop and the motor would stutter. I cleaned the MAP sensor and the EVAP vent solenoid valve with no success. Next, I disconnected the fuel vapor line from the EVAP vent solenoid valve and capped the port on the solenoid valve. It appears to idle much smoother and I have not had it die while driving. I just did this yesterday, so it's still too early to say for sure. If the issue appears to be gone after driving for a week or so, I'll have to figure out what the issue with the EVAP system is. It could be the purge valve, the vent valve, the EVAP canister, or maybe a cracked line. 2017 Silverado WT, 5.3L, 6 speed transmission. 46,000 miles.

2017 Silverado WT.

I programmed my BCM to enable the lights. The reason that I went that route is because I wanted the light indicators on my instrument panel to light up when the lights were on. There are several posts on here from people who purchased/built a circuit that includes a relay that will remain energized after your finger is no longer on the button. The button is momentary, so the circuit needs to include a circuit that holds the relay energized until you press the button again to turn the light off. I have no idea if the dealer will perform this programming for you. I ordered a device from the website below and it allowed me to enable the fog lights, among other things. For instance, when you unlock the doors with the key fob at night, the turn signal lights come on. I was able to change is so that the fog lights come on instead. I do not know if the dealer will do this for you. https://www.btdieselworks.com/pages/2015-autosync-guide

2017 Silverado, now with 48,000 miles. Bought it new. DOD delete done at 40,400 miles. Nothing was wrong with the truck, just wanted to get rid of the garbage before it caused a real problem. Thought torque converter might be causing the idle fluctuation and wanted to replace the poor quality OEM converter with a more reliable one. New converter has higher stall speed to go with the bigger cam. Oil pressure does not appear to fluctuate and is still in the same range as it was before.

2017 Silverado 4WD with 5.3L engine and 6 speed transmission. Had mechanic remove DOD system, installed new camshaft and lifters and everything else that goes with the DOD delete process. New plugs, new air filter, new throttle body. Occasionally throws P0506, engine idle speed too slow. Engine has been idling rough since I got it back. It often dies when maneuvering around parking lots, or when I'm trying to back my camper into a site. I often have to hold the brake to be able to increase the RPM while backing in order to keep it from dying. Found a couple vacuum leaks and that made it run better, but still not right. Had torque converter replaced with one that has a higher stall speed, no change. With the truck idling, the RPM fluctuates between 550 and 800 RPM. Using my code reader, the load percentage runs in high 20s when idling. When I put the transmission in D and hold the brake (not pressing on gas pedal), the load percentage goes up a little, then intermittently shoots to 100 percent and then back to high 20s. When this occurs, the RPM drops and the timing drops to near zero. What could be causing this? Any help would be appreciated.

If I were going to do what you are suggesting with the light bar, I would purchase a light bar wiring kit (if the light bar didn't come with one). A light bar wiring kit usually comes with a harness to provide power to the lights, a relay to control the power, and a switch so that the driver can turn them on and off. The switch is usually wired to the positive coil of the relay so that when the switch is ON, power is applied to the coil to energize the relay. I would cut the switch off and run a wire from the power wire for the fog lights to the end of the wire that runs to the positive coil on the relay. The negative coil of the relay should be wired directly to ground. The power wire for the light bar should be connected to the battery, then go through the relay, ending up at the light bar. This way, when the fog lights are on, power will energize the relay and also bring on the light bar.

I used my scanner to record some data. It took 81 snapshots of data over several seconds. I can see the timing varying wildly. The other thing that I see in the logs is that the fuel trims are all negative, so it is pulling fuel. If I had a vacuum leak, wouldn't the fuel trims be positive because the computer would be adding fuel to compensate for the extra air? I read somewhere that knock sensors can cause the computer to pull timing. I could not see the capability to monitor them in my scanner. How do you monitor the output from the knock sensors? Thanks truck data log.docx

My truck started idling very rough again. It appeared to be surging, the RPM would be between 650 and 700, and then drop to around 550. This was random, but occurred several times per minute. I checked the intake manifold bolts and they are loose again. I torqued them a couple months ago. Should something like locktite been installed on the bolts when they were first installed to keep them from backing out? Do I need to pull each bolt out to put on the coating and then reinstall/retorque them? Thanks in advance.

I hooked up to the camper this morning and pulled it about 50 miles to verify that the transmission issue described above was no longer present. It was not. Looks like the truck is good to go now. I'm going to take it to the local tuner tomorrow to fine tune the ECM.

One last thing. Go back over the plug wire ends and twist them left and right a bunch to remove the trapped air. Done Trapped air will push them off the connection Interesting! Thanks!

UPDATE: I spent some time trying to figure out why the engine was running so rough. It just seemed like a vacuum leak to me. I inspected all of the connections to the intake manifold and they all looked good. So, I decided to check the torque on the intake manifold bolts. They were all loose. I looked up the torque value and found that they should be 89 in/lbs. I set my torque wrench and properly torqued the bolts. When I started the engine, it ran much smoother. I could now hear the "cam lope". I took it for a drive and I still had a CEL during hard acceleration. The code was cylinder 7 misfire again. I figured that the most likely cause of this was going to be a bad coil pack, bad spark plug wire, or bad spark plug (mechanic replaced the plugs). I bought a set of plug wires and replaced the #7 wire. I also moved the #3 coil pack to the #7 position and the #7 coil pack to the #3 position. I took it for a drive and I could not get the CEL to come on again during hard acceleration. I took the truck for a long drive (about an hour) that included county highways and Interstate. The transmission issue appears to be completely gone. I had the cruise set on the Interstate and the truck cruised up hills with no issues. I'm going to pull the camper tomorrow to verify that it still doesn't do it. The plug wire must have been damaged when they removed it, or it wasn't connected properly. Now the truck drives like I expected it should. It also appears that the fuel mileage numbers are trending up as well. I'm glad that I found this before dropping $4K on a transmission that I didn't need. Granted the new transmission would be far superior to the factory unit, but I'll put it off for a while as long as it doesn't act up when pulling the camper. The thing that surprises me most about this is how dramatically an engine issue affected the transmission. Thanks for the responses! Your advice kept me focused on getting the engine figured out when the local mechanics kept telling me that the transmission was causing the engine issues.

Snowcamo I had to move my camper last week. I had Tow/Haul mode turned on and I couldn't get above L4 (on the Interstate) without getting the "kicking."

CamGTP I just saw in your post that you mentioned a wideband oxygen sensor. Can you expand on that? Thanks in advance.

CamGTP I totally agree. I'm having a local tuner take over. He runs a shop where he builds performance engines. The first day that I went there, he was fine tuning a late model Camaro with a 6.2L and a supercharger. The name of the shop is Smoke Johnson Customs in Huntsville, AL. After the new transmission is installed, it is going back there for tuning.

I took the truck to a transmission place today and they believe that it is a bad torque converter. They connected a tool to the OBD port and we went for a drive. With this tool, they can lock and unlock the torque converter clutch on command. With the torque converter clutch unlocked, the transmission acted like it should. With the torque converter clutch locked, bad vibrations. The tool also did not detect any cylinder misfires. I was told that the transmission vibration was being sensed by the knock sensor on the engine, which led the computer to believe that the engine was knocking because the timing was advanced too far, so it was retarding spark timing. I did a few WOT runs today that resulted in a CEL. The code was P0506; Idle Air Control System RPM Lower Than Expected. So, I made an appointment to have the transmission rebuilt. We'll see what happens when the new transmission is in. I pull a camper with this truck so it will be getting a heavy duty billet torque converter, heavy duty clutch packs, and other upgrades.