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Ak_grown

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  1. A multimeter would help you with your concern. It would let you know if the alternator is working and let you know your battery's voltage. Also you can check your battery cables with to see if you have a faulty cable or cables. Also you can find out what could be draining your battery. Do you have one?
  2. My experience with the little hand pump(the yellow one posted), works great until you start working with warm or hot fluids. The tube collapse on its self with warm fluid, any other time it works like a champ.
  3. could be a number of issues, bad integration module for the bose amp, blown speakers, or radio output bad. easiest to test would be the speakers, LF Speaker +/- tan - gray +,- radio harness RF Speaker +/- lt. green - dk. green +,- radio harness LR Speaker +/- brown - yellow +,- radio harness RR Speaker +/- dk. blue - lt. blue +,- radio harness Notes: If equipped, the amplifier is under the center console. you can check them with a multimeter or use a 9v battery to "pop" the speakers. If the speakers test ok move on to the bose amp. check for signal coming out of bose amp with the multimeter. best bet would be just cut out the amp and connect the speakers directly to the radio. same goes with the radio, test for voltage signal coming off the radio. or swap with a known working radio.
  4. Granted you have a base model WT, you will want to get a integration module to integrate your security(transponder key) and to make the wiring easier for you as well. The integration module will make the wiring 5x easier. Idatalink makes a good module, viper/dei has a module but you can not flash the firmware your self without a sign in. Best bet is ask a install shop near you if they would sell you one and flash the firmware for your 2013wt. And go from there. Check out Idatalinks web site to get a heads up on what your dealing wiff.
  5. how many keys are on your key chain? saw a post years ago that the extra weight from the key chain can cause the cylinder/key barrel to wear out and make a poor connection to the contacts.
  6. have the ground cable tested or replaced. there was a stint of poorly constructed ground cables that caused issues for many owners.
  7. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dash-Bulb-to-LED-Conversion-Kit-DIY-Red-2003-04-05-06-Silverado-Tahoe-Suburban/281871453194?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20190711095549%26meid%3D594a7c2e2c9a4129b9097b061f0b4f8e%26pid%3D100047%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D272301328681%26itm%3D281871453194%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100047.m2108 here is a DIY kit from them, kinda weird they wouldn't provide work they advertise
  8. well yeah bloods and crips don't mesh well lol but seems to me that the back side is a neutral color and the light emitted is blue, remove the blue and replace with red you would have a red hue. i don't remember the actual gauge display sheet being blue why they would respond with red led would cause a blurry/fuzzy hue. did you ask them for pics of previous clusters that where done in red?
  9. So after dropping the pan again today, double checking that it was for sure the B solenoid that was replaced, double checking the shallow vs. deep filter. and yes the seal was replaced, no change. I saw somewhere someone stated the ohm readings for the speed sensor, ill will check that tomorrow maybe even replace them. I did test the old solenoid with a 9v battery and it didn't engage. checked the ohm reading on the new and old solenoids that where on transmission they are still good. now I'm just lost and wondering the interwebs for solutions. its just crazy swapping fluid/filter/gasket causing such a headache. thanks guys for your time in helping me.
  10. Update, got a ODB1 reader today, codes 68 and 87 68 overdrive ratio error eng. RPM above Input speed 87 transmission shift solenoid B is stuck off. Trying to research this now, hoping someone can chime in. thank you guys
  11. I wanna say that might have been the first time the fluid has been changed. It only has 55k miles on it. I did remove the old seal, that was the hardest part of the work. I can imagine using the shallow filter would effect fluid pick up, but I just can’t find any information about how to determine which one is needed. On the 4L60E they say to look at the pan for either a flat pan with no level changes. For the 4L80E I find full repair kits that come with two different filters. But the parts store sold me two individual filters, and like I said they all looked the same. Thanks for the responses guys
  12. This transmission is on a 93 Fleetwood Bounder, earlier this year I did a transmission fluid/filter/gasket swap. The reason being, I was working on the brakes and noticed that the transmission pan is riddled with leaks of fluid all around it. On the day of the filter and fluid swap, the battery died and I couldn't run the trans. up to temp and check for the right amount of fluid. Fast forward to last Friday, getting the RV ready for our first trip. Replaced the battery and got it running, let it run and get the transmission up to temp and check fluids, little low but but still registering on the dip stick(4.5ft of dip stick) add halve Qt. Take it out to fill up gas tank and propane to notice shifting issues, feels like it starts in 2nd and at highway cruising speeds does not shift in to OD, I have no tach but can tell motor is screaming at highway speeds. Get it back home and check fluid level again and dip stick is dry, add 2 quarts of fluid. Can not get a solid reading on dip stick due to using dipstick tube to add more fluid. Let it rest over night, check levels in the morning, over filled.... pump out fluid levels to operational "hot" marks on dip stick. Same outcome, feels like we are driving in 2nd. Trouble shooting begins, with checking the shift solenoids, found solenoid 1-2 0 ohms, replaced, solenoid 3-4 28.5 ohm left alone. refiled and drove again, slight change, can feel a shift from 3rd down to 2nd but still no OD or 1st. kinda lost now on where to go with trouble shooting. Came across a tread here about the deep/shallow pan filters, I do remember I bought both because I didn't know what I had and I do remember putting all 3 side by side and they looked all the same. so I used the closest one to me. Now I'm wondering could I have used the wrong filter and that is causing my shifting issues? I searched the forum more about deep vs. shallow filters, but it only talks about the 4L60E not to much on the 80E. Can anyone help me please? How would I tell if I grabbed the wrong filter? I was sold both deep and shallow pan filters, but like I said, they both matched what I pulled out of tranny.
  13. I guess my concern would be, debris build up and start of corrosion over time depending where you live and what is sprayed on the road during winter times. maybe use a rubber mat that covers the whole bracket where it contacts the body panel so nothing can get trapped between the bracket and body panel. but thats just me thinking out loud. glad you guys that have the rattle have found a fix.
  14. Do you have the Bose premium sound? The added module could have reduced the signal output to the amplifier. Going from memory, the older GMs with the Bose amplifier, before you disconnect and install a new radio you would need to set the volume. I'm just guessing here from past experience with the Bose sound. If easily accessible, bring back to the factory setup and turn radio on and adjust the radio volume to where you believe is comfortable. Then reconnect your intellahaul system that in turn would have the Bose amplifier to be close to your comfortable level. i have check the install manual of your intellahaul system but no where show how this system would effect you sound quality. is this the system you installed?
  15. not much more info to give other than the TSB is in that site. https://www.silveradosierra.com/climate-control/a-c-light-flashes-3-times-t704318.html
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