sounds about right but the light shouldn't be on if you did it right. integration modules for that year/make are cheap now, with the addition of adding keyless entry if you have power locks. orange in color wire shielding, two white smaller wires inside, cut one of those wires, find resistance by using multimeter to key switch side of cut wire to 2nd wire that was not cut(and be within 20%), then connect resistor to the BCM side of cut wire, then connect to 2nd wire that was not cut. the other end of cut wire that goes to the key switch is taped off and not used.
yes hard to say, could have shorted out internally the fuse block its self. you could have a shop trouble shoot by the hour or look towards a junk yard for a replacement fuse block. which ever is easiest on the wallet. for future reference, yes if you tagged to fused side on the fuse block you would have popped the fuse thats protecting that circuit. but you tagged on the constant(direct to 12v) side of that fuse port. i do not recommend that connection because you can push back the connector that makes contact with the fuse and intern need to buy a new fuse block again. there are plenty of accessory connection points you can use if you ask around. that junction block to left of brake pedal that you would plug a trailer wiring have accessory ports i would recommend.
i tried this with my truck back when i was still working for dealer, yes they bolt up but they did not plug in for me. i didn't have the right door switch panel that they plug into. the switch had the plugs for power windows locks and power mirrors but not the correct plug in port for turn signals. before you start i would suggest looking at the switch panel for the mirror to plug in.
what did you have the switch you were installing connected to? there was no fuse inline? i would start on the circuit you connected the switch to since you said they made contact with each other. is this on your 09 1500?
you tested the ground side of door latch? did you test the bcm side of door latch?(at the latch) leave door open and use screw driver to latch the door latch closed and get reading. verify voltage change, no change, replace latch. if latch works as designed check other modules that connected.
The wire posted should be on the larger plug.
Ak_grown replied to Mudboy_86's topic in Audio, Electronics, OnStar, MyLink, Intellilink & SiriusXMare you gonna utilize the radio to the full extent? all 4 speakers? there are better radios at best buy, amazon, or crutchfield. speakers in the door? (original speakers?)in the dash? custom kick panel pods? those radios you asked about are simple radios that will do the job but if you want better sound control and quality i would ask you to look else where. USB ports and Blue tooth connectivity are a nice addition if you like your music. as for sound, what speaker set up do you have? hard to recommend with little info. https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-BV9362BI-Touchscreen-Bluetooth/dp/B005EWTKAA are you ready for a headache when you start having issues with this radio?
that been said, your vehicle uses data communication to turn on your radio, it not a simple 12v to acc. to turn on while bench testing radio.
Radio 12v orange + radio harness Radio Ground BLACK/ white - radio harness Radio Ignition Class 2 Serial Data Radio Illumination N/A Factory Amp Turn-on pink + radio harness Power Antenna dk. green + radio harness LF Speaker +/- tan - gray +,- radio harness RF Speaker +/- lt. green - green +,- radio harness LR Speaker +/- brown - yellow +,- radio harness RR Speaker +/- blue - lt. blue +,- radio harness
Ak_grown replied to my.offroad.z71's topic in Audio, Electronics, OnStar, MyLink, Intellilink & SiriusXMits been a while, but yes there are certain models that have the premium sound with the subwoofer in the rear. you would need to look in the rear panel for wire connector. that sub box comes with an amp mounted to it. i had one laying around a while ago but tossed it. there are aftermarket options for custom molded boxes. you might have to bose sub in the center console. as for led bulbs I'm rocking a Chinese brand, but issues you would come across is clearance, if you go with the cooling fan that takes up a lot of space and they can be heard inside the cab. i have the heat sink ribbons. another issue is beam focus, i have a shadow/blind spot perfectly in front of my truck due to the circuit board. i don't like it but still using them till i find something better. they do shine bright, light up road signs way down the road and rear view mirrors as well. but that shadow of the circuit board kills the area needing to be lighted up. been looking at these but still haven't pulled the trigger on them due to the reviews. https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Bulbs-ECCPP-Clear-Arc-Beam/dp/B0774JV83G/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1526666432&sr=8-16&keywords=360+led+headlights
Ak_grown replied to notgsxr's topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500check https://www.crutchfield.com/S-BP58pdVU4Hm/ put in what you have and they have a good selection to pick from or hit up locale best buy. some times they price match. i know for sure they price match amazon. they have rear view mirrors with the monitor in them. i would steer clear of the wireless camera and monitor unless you don't mind a fuzzy screen.
sorry for incomplete info. but this is what i can find. 1999 Chevrolet Silverado Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information Constant 12V+ Red Ignition Switch Harness Starter Yellow Ignition Switch Harness Ignition Pink Ignition Switch Harness Ignition 2 White Ignition Switch Harness Ignition 3 Brown Ignition Switch Harness Accessory Orange Ignition Switch Harness (Heat/AC) Tach White V6 Coil, If V8 at Any Coil, 1 Cylinder Setting Brake Switch White Brake Switch Trunk Pin n/a Parking Lights Light Blue (+) Light Switch Head Lamp Yellow (+) Light Switch Factory Disarm Light Green (-) Keyless Module Door Trigger Tan DR. (-) Light Blue Passenger's Module below Steering Column Door Lock Light Blue (+) Keyless Entry Module below Steering Column Door Unlock White (+) Positive Trigger Driver's Lock Gray Driver's Kick Panel Driver's Unlock Tan Driver's Kick Panel Passenger Unlock White Driver's Kick Panel Horn Wire Black (-) Steering Column Windows Up LF=Dark Blue, RF=Light Blue Windows Down LF=Brown, RF=Tan but those wires would be running together outta the door boot or kick panel where ever you want to test them. the door trim is pretty easy to come off, but i have done it plenty of times
Ak_grown replied to Ashleyfox118's topic in Audio, Electronics, OnStar, MyLink, Intellilink & SiriusXMBeing a ex best buy installer I'm alittle offened, lol just little. Sounds like you don't want to get rid of your radio, the piece that controls the quality of sound. So next would be speakers, a simple upgrade. Anything is better than stock paper cone speakers. As for more bass, don't go cheap on speakers. Not saying get the top end, but a mid range component speaker will do. Then I would show you the alpine inline amp. https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1524247586&sr=1-1&keywords=alpine+inline+amp little much, but it will help with what your looking for. And not having to look at huge amps and then getting amp kits and running power wires. That alpine amp can be added at the later date if you like the sound after the speaker replacement. A plus with going to Best Buy is a lifetime warranty on the install. And it goes where you go, how many cars I fixed from the states up here in AK.
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