Pulled the trigger on picking this brand of LEDs, as for the install no clearance issues with the heat sinks. Only issue I had was the install guide states to have the circuit board vertical, they send a tiny allen tool to adjust, but the two options did not come close to vertical. had to drill an different set screw hole in the plastic holder, which did not cause any issue with the housing or weather proofing of headlight housing. As for lighting, light spread is great, switch to hi beam looks great. No radio interference do you circuitry. These were installed a 08 Yukon, I removed the bumper cover to make install easier for me. I went with these due to the fact there was no fan built in for LEDs cooling, and on the hopes of not needing to replace a headlight bulb in 5-6 months.
The 7900 doesn't have a blade port? You are using the independent idatalink module? Idatalink website install guides are pretty straight forward. I been sitting on my remotestart/alarm unit for a while now. Have not installed it because I wanted to keep the truck stock for a bit. do you have heated seats? Are you gonna activate then durning remotestart? rear defrost activation? I plan on tracking down those circuits to activate during remote start.
2006- grey black negative trigger for parking lights. for a positive trigger search for wires after parking light relay
have you tried to connect just one side? check if the volume is better. did you connect to chassis ground? or the audio common ground?
Radio 12v orange + radio harness Radio Ground BLACK/ white - radio harness Radio Ignition (Class 2 Serial Data) = means find a different accessory source elsewhere Radio Illumination N/A Factory Amp Turn-on pink + radio harness Power Antenna N/A LF Speaker +/- tan - gray +,- radio harness Notes: If equipped, the amplifier is under the center console. RF Speaker +/- lt. green - dk. green +,- radio harness LR Speaker +/- brown - yellow +,- radio harness RR Speaker +/- dk. blue - lt. blue +,- radio harness
looks like you don't need to remove bulb to check, can you see the tabs through the headlight lens? check the link https://sparksmith.com/blogs/news/h11a-or-h11b-which-is-for-me
old tread, but interested. this will be the 5th bulb I will be replacing and its getting old. I tired the HIDs but the only lasted a 1.5 year. and went right back to halogen. Interested in a set of LEDs with out the fan, a lot of options out there now, Hoping someone had some luck will a good set of LEDs in a 08+ Yukon. i been looking at these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHCQ8KY/ref=psdc_15730151_t2_B06XHDYTGL
I went to fuel up my truck Saturday night when it was just under half tank mark, the pump stopped at 9.7x gallons. I was .30 cents away for a full dollar amount so I try to keep pumping, get there after 3 shuts offs from the handle(don't judge me ).When I start up my truck, gauge reads the first tick over half tank. So I shut it off, turn it back on but wait for the gauges finish their little dance and then start it back up no change. I Drive off the my friends house, a few hours later drive home, gauge reads 3/4 full. Its been as low as -15 degrees some nights and up to 10 degrees on days. My truck does sit for weeks while I'm out for work, but this is the first time having this come up. I know there is fuel in there, I understand its cold and the truck sits, but I would think this would have came up the first winter here. Is there any other owners that live in the same temp range experiencing this? This morning the gauge still read 3/4, and I have not drove it anymore since then. 26 gallon tank, gauge was at just under half, pumped 9.7x gallons, close enough for me for a refuel at half tank to get to full. 2018 5.3 aboot 3,7xx miles
I would check the door boot, make sure that it is seated in the door panel and body panel. is it just the speaker that stops working? locks? window? power adjusting mirrors? did you replace the speakers with aftermarket ones? is there an after market radio? is it in protect mode?
A multimeter would help you with your concern. It would let you know if the alternator is working and let you know your battery's voltage. Also you can check your battery cables with to see if you have a faulty cable or cables. Also you can find out what could be draining your battery. Do you have one?
could be a number of issues, bad integration module for the bose amp, blown speakers, or radio output bad. easiest to test would be the speakers, LF Speaker +/- tan - gray +,- radio harness RF Speaker +/- lt. green - dk. green +,- radio harness LR Speaker +/- brown - yellow +,- radio harness RR Speaker +/- dk. blue - lt. blue +,- radio harness Notes: If equipped, the amplifier is under the center console. you can check them with a multimeter or use a 9v battery to "pop" the speakers. If the speakers test ok move on to the bose amp. check for signal coming out of bose amp with the multimeter. best bet would be just cut out the amp and connect the speakers directly to the radio. same goes with the radio, test for voltage signal coming off the radio. or swap with a known working radio.
Granted you have a base model WT, you will want to get a integration module to integrate your security(transponder key) and to make the wiring easier for you as well. The integration module will make the wiring 5x easier. Idatalink makes a good module, viper/dei has a module but you can not flash the firmware your self without a sign in. Best bet is ask a install shop near you if they would sell you one and flash the firmware for your 2013wt. And go from there. Check out Idatalinks web site to get a heads up on what your dealing wiff.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 123 Members, 2 Anonymous, 2,529 Guests (See full list)
- Brian Jones
- Byron Sparrow
- C. Smith
- Rob Maerz
- Kyle's AT4
- Salsa De Piña
- Thomas M. Snyder II
- Beer Belly
- Trinidad Barrera
- Scott Shipley
- Hey There
- Ithan Henry
- RAYS B4U
- Matt Robertson
- Jay P
- C/K Man
- Grumpy Bear
- Miguel Olea
- David solar
- 2003 kilowatt
- Steven Muraoka