El Camino

Well, I didn’t go with a wireless model and my 2010 4x4 WT/LS does not come with a head that has a screen and I didn’t want a separate monitor to hang on the glass or mount to the dash so I went with the camera and rear view mirror screen. I purchased the Auto-Vox T9 which is an older model but I didn’t know that when I got it off Amazon for about $110. The thing that I did differently was to skip mounting the camera to my license plate or on the bumper somewhere and actually purchased a tail gate bezel ready to accept a camera. I rigged in the Auto-Vox camera which is NOT exactly like a stock factory GM camera by enlarging the square hole in the bezel slightly to allow for a little more of a tilt due to the fact that the camera does not have the same spread angle as the factory. If you use the slot as is, the camera shoots down too much. Running the wires was pretty ez, camera had one cable/plug and a red wire to tap into the back up light circuit the rest ran towards the cab. I ran the cable inside a 3/8” black plastic corrugated tube jacket because it was going to be exposed under the truck. I followed the trucks main jacket of wires towards the cab/eng. compartment and zip tied to it. When I got under the cab, I found a rubber grommet under the drivers seat and I poked a little hole and ran my cable though and up under the floor covering. From there I routed the cabling towards the plastic trim that is next to the e- brake lever then up and into the fuse compartment to the left of the dash. I had to run a separate wire that I added to the red wire for ignition on power that comes with the cable. I did this because I had to run to the fuse box under the hood. There was no ignition power on fuse inside the cab that I could find. Running that additional power length of wire through the firewall was the hardest part of the install for me. I like the whole system except for two issues that I have. One is that the glare that I get from having a regular cab with no tinted windows is so harsh that it makes it hard to see the video playing on the screen even if I try to adjust the contrast. I think if I create a hood or cover that I can mount over the top of the rear view mirror I think that I would be able to see the image better. Second thing is that if you don’t run the video all the time which I have mine set up to shut off after five minutes and if you use the so called mirror reflection, it’s not that great. It’s ok and I’ve gotten used to it but it’s not bright not like a true mirror. Oh, I forgot, if you rely on back up grid lines, the T9 has them but they are a pain in the arse to adjust and set up as you like. There are a couple of videos on YT that show this model in action if you’re interested. Have fun selecting and installing.

I will check the placard. I never realized that an optional size was listed. Thanks for the tip.

2010 rcsb Silverado 1500 WT 4x4 with LS trim. Stock suspension with stock 265/70R17 tires. It’s time to get all four replaced and I would like to increase tire size. Can anybody with previous experience tell me for sure if 285/70R17 tires will fit with no rubbing issues? Appears that the diameter will be increased by 1” and width by 0.8”. TIA

Ok thanks for the suggestion. Is this a constant or switched on fuse? I’m guessing a switched on fuse.

Hey all, I want to install a backup cam that I got for my 2010 Silverado 1500 WT 4.8L. The kit includes a camera and a rear view mirror that displays. I need to select a constant power-on fuse and a fuse that provides power when ignition is switched on. Seeing that I am horrible with wiring, I’m not sure where is the best fuses to tap into. The device provides fuse tap wire adaptors with installed 5 amp fuse so it cant be drawing too much power. I don’t want to overload any circuit causing issues. I have determined through easy testing that inside the cabin, I can only find constant power on fuses. I’m assuming I will have to tap into a fuse for ACC power in the engine compartment. So my question is to anyone that has hooked up a device tapping into fuses, what fuse(s) did you tap into to not cause any issues? I'd rather not tie into just a wire under the dash with no fuse protection or switches to turn power off and on.

Sharp looking single cab and I see a lot of potential. What model is it? The rubber mat tells me it’s a WT correct? I see you have dual tips. Is it true duals or a split? So what are some of your plans when you do get to it? Are you going to keep it level where it is now or are you going to lower it even more as you are in The City of Angels! Ive a 2010 rcsb my self with a 4.8L 4x4 with those same chrome wheels (that I don’t like) that I want to mod as well.

Some here will yell at me and I may deserve it. But I’m here to tell ya, the rear leaf springs on my 1500 WT reg. cab are STOUT! I knew when I got this truck that each leaf looked really thick. Way more thicker than the ones that were in my 2017 Tundra TRD. I loaded a pallet of 80lb. bags of Concrete mix (42 ea.) 3,360 lbs. in the bed. It squatted in back but the frigging leafs never flattened out. Hell, my Tundras leafs were maxed out carrying a cu. yd. of garden mix! The 1500 steered, handled and stopped well. Even had some softness left in the rear suspension over road bumps too. Even the little 4.8L Vortec showed no sign of strain going up a pretty severe hill. Truthfully, I felt bad for the old girl swore that I would never do it to her again. Amazing.

The knob was tuned to defrost. Case solved. Thanks fellas.

Hi guys, I have a question about the AC clutch on my 4.8L 1500 Is it normal for the clutch to spin for a few minutes then stop and then go again even though AC is turned off? I've noticed the AC shudder (the slight load on engine)that is typical when the AC cycles on and off when in use however this happens when the AC button is not on.

I want to replace the stock muffler on my 2010 4.8L Silverado WT LS 4x4 with some sort of low restriction muffler to get a better sound. I also want to run two tail pipes coming off the new muffler routing out behind the tires like stock. My question is, under normal conditions, will this mild modification cause my truck to either run bad causing an error or not be able to pass an emission inspection? Truck runs well and always passes emission checks. Thank you.

Thank you Sir! Very helpful to me.

Thank you for responding. I think I understand what you wrote. Based on your experience, do you feel that a battery draw of 140-280 Ma is enough to drain a new battery in 4-5 days? I can’t seem to get an answer to this.

Ok let me add this to my topic. There is an on/off switch in my upper console that is there for a roof beacon light should I chose to utilize it. I do have the Snow Prep Pkg. The small amber light in the rocker switch will go on if I press the switch. I just noticed that it had been left on. Would this small light be the cause for the amp drain? It is so small, it could be un-noticed.

Hi all, my 2010 Silverado WT 4.8L with a new battery will go flat in around 4-5 days and will not start without a jump. If I start it everyday or every other day, no issue. When charged, the battery reads around 12.34V+/- and with engine running around 14.5-14.7V. I did an amperage draw with a multimeter with everything shutoff and I get a 1.4-1.5A draw. Before I start to pull fuses one by one, is this a normal amp draw for a stripped down vehicle like my WT? No power anything. Just the ECU. Your thoughts.