Jworks

I had that issue on my 2011. I used one of those headlight restoration kits that take out the yellow cloudy look caused by the sun. I don't recall for certain what brand I used (I'm thinking it was 3M) but it was one of the better ones, about $20 (don't go cheap). That was 3 years ago and there is no difference today. But, my truck is garaged. If I have to do it again I'll be using the Cerakote brand. This is easy to do. Just follow directions on the bottle exactly as it says.

Several years. I'd say 4. But the tick isn't always there but when it is its a startup and goes away after the motor is fully warmed up.

Good idea. I'll do that. I'm pretty sure they wires are on there good but I will check

There are plenty of really good people on here that can help with the rust. I assume you will be putting it on a rack to spray. Just in case nobody responds here are some ideas from Popular Mechanics. https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/g2312/best-liquid-rust-removers-test/ Most of these are about leaving the item in the solution for a few hours or overnight. Since you can't do that, my recommendation, as a novice, is the WD40 Specialist Rust Remover Soak. It is given 4 1/2 stars out of 5 on Amazon. Because you have frame area to spray I'd put it in a garden sprayer and give it a good soak and let it sit overnight. If needed, give it another soak. Afterwards, you could hit it with a long handle wire brush too. Hopefully, someone of the more experts on here will give you advice. As for the bumper cover, are all the plastic tabs difficult to get in or just one or two? What I would try if it was mine would be a 2x4 piece of wood, lay it on top of the cover and use a good heavy hammer, or the back side of a single blade axe. I hate to mention sledge hammer as that gives a mental image of whacking it real hard. BUT, a sledgehammer with just light taps (not hard) has the inertia to probably do the job. If you try this be sure to use a 2x4 board. I have a 20# sledgehammer and it has come in handy more times than I can count for just such jobs.

Lots of 5.3s do this. My 2011 5.3 , 179k miles on it, has the tick "sometimes" at start up. I bought it used 7 yrs ago. Its had the tick off and on for several years. My independent mechanic said "thats the Chevrolet tick". His truck did it too. When it does sound off it goes away after a few minutes. Its not nearly as loud as it once was and here's why I think that is. I was advised by someone on on here, Ray Voy, to keep clean oil in it. I had been going by the computer telling me when to change, but I never did let it get below about 25% left on the computer. Even so, the oil would have 6-7k miles on it. So, I took his advice and changed oil every 3-4k miles regardless what the computer says. (Oil is a lot cheaper than an engine job). I'm using 5-30 Castrol full synthetic Dexos1 and a new filter with every change. I recommend getting the more expensive filters instead of the standard filter; I think they provide better oil pressure. So, yes, this is a common issue with the 5.3. Clean oil and disregard the dashboard computer.

Sinyk, I'm not a mechanic like some on here are, just a guy. I have the same engine and I've noticed it idles differently based on how much its been driven since the last oil change. I've seen my oil pressure down around 21 at idle (after complete engine warmup) and highway driving sits on 38-40. I too quit using the PF48 (which is what the dealers always put on). I've noticed once I change oil the new idle pressure is around 27-30 after warmup. My mechanic said dont worry about it unless it goes down under 20. I think lots of folks with these engines experience this. I use to go by the computer percentage and when it got to around 25% I'd change, but the idle was around 21-22 after the oil got over 3k miles on it. I was advised to keep clean oil in it. After much deliberation and back and forth I decided to do just that. 3-4k miles then change it. I don't go by computer anymore. I just change it at 3-4k miles. I've used the PF63 filter and had no issues. It seemed to provide higher pressure at idle than the PF48. The best idle PSI I ever got was once I paid the way higher price for a more expensive filter rather than the normal PF48 types. That was with a Fram Ultra Synthetic filter. I'm certainly no expert but the higher $ filter does seem to provide higher oil pressure.

Windshield washer reservoir, perhaps ? Easy enough to check that, just fill it up and see if it leaks out.

I currently have Continentals on my GMC 4x4. Like you, 99% of my driving is on the road. I've only engaged 4WD once in 6 years and the tires did fine. But I'm not a mud-hogger and it sounds like you aren't either. For me, buying an all terrain tire and listening to the humming isnt desirable "just because I have a 4x4". I recommend a highway tire. I just put Toyo tires on my Honda car. I was a bit cautious knowing nothing about them but my dealer I've dealt with for 25 years recommended them. Its my first departure from the Continental, General and other "known" names. They are a Japanese company so that alone gave me confidence to try them, made in Georgia USA. I've been well satisfied too. And, the price was very reasonable. I'll probably put them on my truck next time.

The way I understand it is you had to have purchased it new and in only 1 of the 3 states up to 15 years ago. Won't help me; not in those states and I bought used.

This may sound like a dumb question to some. I have 2011 Sierra 4x4, 5.3 engine, I bought used 7 years ago. One day I noticed the oil drain plug didn't have a gasket. I wasn't sure if this model used a gasket or not because the inside of the plug head had 3 tiny raised lines rather than flat and smooth. I didn't know if this model truck was made to go back on without a gasket or if maybe the plug had been replaced by the prior owner. Anyway, I bought a gasket and put it on. Its rubber. I did another oil change two days ago and the gasket seemed to be torn a little bit around the edge but seemed ok enough to not cause a problem. My question is does anyone know for sure if this model truck should or should have a gasket ?

My 2011 has that at times and not at times when I start up. But on the driver side. I don't hear it after the motor warms up some. I've been told its a lifter and is a common issue with 5.3 engines. I've been driving it since I bought it used in 2019. "If" it is a lifter the dealership told me it would likely fail at some point and to fix this is about $2800. My independent mechanic said his truck has it too and I should just drive it because that was what he called the "Chevrolet tick". I'd be interested to know how yours turned out. Interestingly enough my niece has a 10 year old Ford F150 that had this same issue. Hers eventually locked up and ruined the engine, which she replaced with a Jasper engine ($8k). So, I'd be interested to hear how yours turned out being my reply is 11 months after you posted.

[ I've posted this on another site also to get replies to this question ] I'll probably open a can of worms here (lol). 2011 GMC Sierra, 5.3. I've read that SuperTech is actually made by Champion Labs (which is owned by Fram). I've also read they have 99% filtration down to 20 microns and are compatible with synthetic oils, which I use. So, the question is have any of you used SuperTech's filters? Opinions ?

I never heard of this, but I'm no expert like some on here are. I drove a '94 for 21 years with nothing like that. I'd check with a good independent to see if maybe something is loose before I did anything. If push comes to shove you might get one from a salvage yard. Not something I'd want to tackle and definitely not qualified to do.

2011 GMC Sierra. The radio suddenly quit coming on. No matter what buttons I push the only thing on the screen is the telephone symbol. See pic attached. Any suggestions?

The rust issue: If you live above the "salt line" you can likely expect more of this. By "salt line" I mean the northern states that use salt on the roads a lot in the winter. If you live south of the salt line the question is did this truck come from those northern states (and how long it was up there) before you bought it. A carfax report would probably tell you the history of where this truck has been. If its from the north I'd probably sell it. Or....you could ask a local body shop [one that will give you a straight and honest answer] for their recommendation just to see if there is something they recommend. I have a 2011 also with no rust issues. Bought it used but it was in Alabama its whole life. Oil pan : It probably needs a new gasket, not a big expense here. Transmission: I'm not sure what you mean by flaring. Any kind of shifting issue needs to be addressed. This will likely be expensive, as you know. Has the transmission been serviced (changing fluid) ? I change mine every 30k miles regardless of anything, which has been the standard as long as I know. You bought it used, so there's no way of knowing if the prior owner did this. I bought mine from a dealer and the trans fluid was bright pink so I knew they'd just changed it before putting it on the lot to sell. Try to find a COMPETENT independent transmission guy and tell him the issue. Expensive? Yes, even with an independent trans guy. But not as much as at a dealer. I use a local guy -- small ratty-looking shop, but does really good work and uses good materials. But it still costs. Maybe consider selling it or trading it in. There are some people on here that know a lot more than me. Hopefully one of them will give you more professional advice.