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Jworks's Achievements


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  1. Thanks redvett. You reminded me of something I had forgotten. When I first got this truck I asked the service manager about Mobil 1. He said he could put it in there, it'd just cost a little more than the dealer-provided GM dexos. I had forgotten that. Getting old I guess. diyer2, I go by what the computer shows. When it gets to 20-30% remaining I go ahead and change it. Thats around 5k miles.
  2. Black02Silverad, it had 141k miles at the time I did the oil change myself. Currently it has 146k. I had not done it myself in several years and opted to let the dealer do it. This was my first truck to own specified to synthetic oil; I'd always used Castrol conventional oil in past trucks. Because I'm 75 I ust decided to let the dealer do it. But when this 21 psi issue happened I just decided to risk the cost of an oil change even though it was not time. I did so based on recommendations by several people on here. Since I'd never used oil myself using synthetic I chose to put in Mobil 1. I went with the High Mileage oil because the label on the oil can said "over 75,000". Thats the only reason I went with that oil. It was not using any oil that I know of.
  3. Pokismoki, the motor temp when that happened was normal (210 degrees), its never overheated. The oil viscosity was 5w-30 The engine was at normal highway speed pulling a boat (18 ft boat), about 2000 lbs on the boat & trailer. Running 60-70 mph. RPMs 1600-2000. Also, I looked at the dealer's oil change ticket and it says the oil filter was PF48. I never heard of a computer controlled oil system. Thats news to me.
  4. Thanks Grumpy Bear. Good explanation.
  5. 2011 Sierra, 4x4, 5.3. I know dexos is recommended for this model engine. Dealer has done all my past oil changes except the last one, which I did myself with Mobil 1 High Mileage and Fram upper end synthetic filter **. That was 4k miles ago, computer is showing 36% left, but regardless I will be changing oil anyway next week. When I used Mobil 1 High Mileage I didn't think about it that I should be using a dexos oil (whatever that means). Stupid of me, I know. But it seems no harm done. I'll probably let the dealer do the upcoming oil change and use their dexos synthetic again BUT with a better than standard AC Delco oil filter [UPF-48R]. Question is : How is dexos different and why does GM recommend it for this (and newer) models? I don't "think" I'll have any issues by going back to the dealer dexos synthetic and higher end filter. ** [Why I changed oil myself] I previously had an oil pressure issue months ago. Dropped to 21 psi even at hwy speed. Engline light eventually came on to check oil sensor. Engine never shut down. I had the sensor replaced -- mechanic said the screen underneath it still looked very clean so he did not replace it. So after the sensor change oil psi was up to 30 at hwy speed, still 22 idling. He said though that was still well above GM minimum required specs. Unsure about all this, I changed oil and filter as recommended by people on this site - and this time l did it myself. The oil psi at hwy speed psi got to 40, sometimes goes to 38, but mostly 40. Idling 30 psi with occasional 22 (but varies up and down, mostly 30). I was told that that often those standard filters (even AC Delco) go bad and that causes the oil psi issue, so I should insist on the UPF-48R in the future. Sure enough, after changing oil myself it was much better.
  6. Fair price for an '04 in my opinion. I have a '11, 5.3. My psi is 40 driving, and varies between 22 and 30 at idle. I had an issue with psi a few months back. It was 21 at any speed. I was alarmed. Shortly afterwards the engine light came on, coded check oil sensor. I had that changed. PSI went to 30 at highway speed. Still 22 idling. Someone told me to change oil and filter. That didn't make sense to me, but I'm no pro. So, I did. I did it myself, higher end Fram synthetic oil filter and Mobil 1 oil. Bingo. Highways psi 40, idling 30, sometimes still 22. But most of the time 30 at idle. A mechanic on this website told me its the oil filter, he'd seen lots of them come back, and they were always the cheaper lower end filter, and I should insist on the higher end filter if I do oil changes at the dealer again. I doubt the Mobil 1 had anything to do with the better psi. I had been using Dexos at the dealer. But the better filter, I think, was the reason. Now I have a decision to make next oil change. Do again myself or let dealer do it with the higher end filter. I'd be more concerned about the 2 quarts between changes if I was you. Thats saying something. Hopefully a mechanic will respond to you. Richard Wysong is a regular on here; I've read a lot of his posts and he's usually really good. Maybe he can help you.
  7. I inquired with a dealer too. Its suppose to do that. Forget it.
  8. dna9656, I looked for such a post about replacing the gear. I'm not finding it. My guess is its probably the fold ou/fold in gear -- everything else works. After watching a Youtube video where the owner found a cracked plastic gear. Other videos showed how to get in to the motor and replace it. I decided that was out of my league, with all those plastic tabs, etc. and getting it all put back together. I think you are right, just buying another mirror would be a lot easier. The tricky part would be finding one that has a white top and black bottom to match the passenger side mirror. Or just forget it - Ha.
  9. 2011 Sierra . Both side mirrors move up & down, and in & out. Right mirror will fold in on command. Left mirror won't budge. I'm thinking a wire loose. Any ideas? Is this and easy fix?
  10. Stu, I agree 100%. I've moved on, and the ticking has not been heard but once since I started this thread. Last time out,,,,nothing, just normal. The mechanic I trust is a real straight shooter. Christian man. His whole family is in auto work, he has the mechanic shop, his uncles have a body shop, which I"ve used numerous times over 20 years. Excellent work from both. And honest. Yes, he has turned away work for me twice advising me its no big deal....forgettaboutit. Thats how he's built his business and you should see his parking lot. So, in summation I agree, I was making noise when I shoiuld have just moved on -- which I have. Thanks
  11. Man, thats weird changing to 0-30 oil to solve the problem. No arguing though that it worked for you. I had a similar issue. Long story short: Oil pressure dropped to 21 at hwy speed. An online friend in this forum advised changing oil & filter. I did. Pressure went back to 40 hwy speed. But still idles lower...like 20-30 at idle. Mechanic told me it was still within GM specs and not to worry. He said it'd be costly to replace the O ring (which would be my next step). And he said if it dropped below 20 to let him know. I'm thinking that would be a $700 job min. For now I'm at 40 hwy speed and 22-30 at idle.
  12. txab, thanks for that input. The ticking sound has for the most part gone away. Since you mentioned the O ring, I'll say this. I had an extensive post about oil pressure on another post. After all was said and done I changed oil & filter and went with an upper grade Fram filter. My pressure went back up to 40, but at idle it was still sometimes 22 and sometimes 30. Its still that way. In that discussion someone mentioned changing out the O ring, as you did above. I haven't done that. That surely seems to have solved your oil pressure issue. I'm told removing that oil pan isn't as easy as just unbolting the pan and changing it. Mine's a 4x4 if that makes any difference. I don't have the know how to do that and 'm too old to try to tackle that myself. My mechanic said even the times that my idle pressure is at 22 thats still well within GM specs, so he recommend to just leave it alone since its 40 at driving speeds and he said it was nothing to be alarmed about, but that if it went below 20 to let him know. Most of the time idle is at about 30, but sometimes its 22. I think the job to replace that O ring would probably be $2-300.
  13. customboss, I did the "tuneup" thing maybe 10k miles ago.....about a year I'd say. Changed plugs and wires. That didn't make diddly mpg difference. I was getting good mpg before; 20-21 highway, 17 locally. Just money wasted. As for pvc, air filter, I don't think I've changed it. I may have though, to be honest I just don't remember. I'll check that filter myself. All my driving is highway, non-dusty driving which is limited as I'm 75. I doubt the air filter is dirty at all. Oil change is done at the dealer and they usually check that anyway.
  14. You've got some good suggestions above in these posts. I'm no expert but the tires came to my mind first thing. I have just regular street tires (Continental) on my 4x4 and I get 20-21mpg on the hwy on a long trip. Same engine but 2011 model truck. Local driving I get 17mpg.
  15. "Won't roll of 3mph". I had this happen once. The engine would crank up but when I put it in gear it would only get about 10mph and then just choke down. It was a fully stopped up catalytic converter. "If" thats it its not a cheap fix.
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