Toonces

Just got my first truck, a 2006 Silveado 1500 with the 5.3, and I've got all the issues chased down now except for these last few... The first is a P0455 error code, which is a leak somewhere in the evap system. My gas cap is new and down tight, so the next part I'm trying to look at is my vent valve/solenoid, which should be right next to the charcoal canister and tank. I think I've found it based on location, but what I'm seeing on my truck isn't matching either the videos or the parts I'm finding on rockauto. The only potentially cannister-like or vent-valve-like parts I've found next to the gas tank are what's in my picture here. These are right next to the front side of the tank, and have the same type of hoses running to them like I've seen in the videos, but aren't shaped nearly the same. Is this my canister and vent valve part I'm looking for?... Canister and vent valve? The second issue is the leak I'm seeing coming from my rear differential. It's at the front of the diff where the drive shaft ties in. How hard is it to change this seal? Any general advice here?... Rear diff And last is this rubber hose I found that terminates on top of the crank case. I was able to feel above the transmission and trace it as it runs toward the engine. It has some kind of Y branch in it just on top of the transmission, and continues forward further than I could feel. Just making sure this is some kind of vent hose that I don't need to worry about. The truck had some transmission work done just before I bought it, and I've already found some screw-ups when it was being put back together. Vent hose? I'm all ears. Thanks

Thanks or the advice everybody. It seems the part it entirely discontinued. I've gotten advice to look for Standard Motor Products (non T series), Delphi, BWD (non P series) or NAPA Echlin as the best alternative.

I've got a 2006 Silverado 1500 with the common intermittent no-start issue that I've traced to the ignition switch, and I'm having trouble finding an OEM part without having to go to a dealer and pay those high prices. Any idea where to find part number GM 15242754 for under $60? Thanks ahead. PS All the links that google comes up with are 'out of stock.'

Thanks for all the advice Jworks. I'm sure the wd40 would work well. I've been suggested the fluid film a lot, like richard here (thanks), so that's probably the direction I'm going. On the plastic cover, I've decided to take my bumper off and try to pull the plastic teeth through with pliars. Hopefully that'll get them through the last couple mm and they'll click in.

Hey truck country. Just got my first pickup, 06 Chevy 1500 and can't say how glad I am to find a true grandpa truck, really worth maintaining. The first things I'm tackling are treating surface rust on the frame, and trading out the froofy white front upper bumper cover for a black one. On the frame rust, what can I do that's not too expensive to treat the little rust it has? My budget's tight after putting out this cash, so I'm hoping there's something in a simple spray can (or 5) I can just coat it with and not have to worry for a while. Second is this pesky bumper cover I'm trying to get on. It fits into place by pushing plastic retainer tabs through these holes and getting them to click into place. The new cover seems to line up with the existing bumper well enough, but I pushed so hard trying to get these things to click in I came this close to giving myself an aneurysm. Any advice for how a mere mortal can get these tabs to click in? Thanks ahead.

I'm about to look at this '02 Sierra with 141k miles for potential purchase and the guy is having to wait on its transfer case to be replaced before showing it. I've seen a lot of trucks advertised, but not too many mentioning T case work being done at this early mileage. Does T case replacement at 141k miles indicate the truck's been overworked with pulling heavy trailer loads? What signs of overuse should I look for on this upcoming inspection, keeping this T case replacement in mind?

Thanks for all the great info guys. Really appreciate it.

Hey everybody. I'm about to purchase my first truck (so happy), and I need to get some advice on what kind of mechanical inspection I should go through before handing over my $$$. Keeping my eye on a number of listings, but my first choice is a '06 Sierra with the 4.8L, auto trans, and 140k miles. I know to crawl over the entire thing looking for leaks and rust (I'm only searching in the South and West to avoid rust altogether), as well as jacking the wheels up to push on the wheel at 12 and 6, and 3 and 9 to look for play. Check cylinder compression for sure...but what else? Thanks.

I need just a simple work truck and I'm looking at a 99 Silverado 2500 for sale with 218k miles. It's got a little body rust, but they're only asking $2700 so I'm good with it. I'll make sure to check for excessive frame rust before handing over any cash. It's got a 6.0L 8-cyl engine with 4x4 and auto transmission. I'm familiar with the 1500 series and engines, but I don't know anything about the 2500s. Is this truck thought to be as reliable as the 1500s up to 2006? Or does it have some kind of fatal flaw where I want to avoid it? Thanks.

How truly great the day will be when I finally drive my first truck home. I've wanted one for years now, but being the tight a&! that I am I haven't let myself spend the money. Now I've got a little business going where I need to haul a trailer, and have 8-10k to spend on a used half-ton. I'm not too familiar with older truck models, but the first ones that come to mind are the Silverado and Sierra 1500s before 2007, when they started to have the fuel management system problem. Are there any other issues the 2006 and previous models have that I should be aware of before I go test driving? I'll end up poking all over the thing before I go handing over that much money, so if I know what issues to look out for hopefully I'll be able to save myself a lot of headache. After doing a 500 mile search here in the Midwest I'm seeing plenty under 150k miles, and some upwards of 250k, so I'm feeling good about finding one with some life left in it.

'96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good. So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes. Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done. Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month? All ears

Unfortunately it looks like I have some people in my new neighborhood paying a little too much attention to my auto and for the first time I'm feeling a need to add some security system(s) to old yeller. I think just a basic remote arm system would do, not interested at all in remote start or unlock. I'm not familiar with modern alarm systems, but here's what I 'think' I need... - Door switches for all 5 doors (rear hatch). Probably a PITA to install but that's only an initial idea. - 'Bump' alarm (not sure what it would be called) for if a window breaks or if something is jarred - Geo-location function like a low track or something similar Additionally I'd like to install possibly 2 start kill switches. I'm not sure where inline these are normally installed but my impression is that directly in line with the key ignition switch would be common. But then what if someone jumps the starter with a screwdriver...would this type of switch work in that instance? So that leads me to the idea of a second ignition kill switch which would either be wired between the battery and starter motor, or between the starter motor and ground. And last...security lugs. So am I over thinking this here? What's your recommendation for what I really need and maybe a good but economic alarm system that can get this done?