This is not always true. My 16 had flappers on the HID projectors that opened to raise the cutoff (with the same amount of light). But my 19 has two LEDs on each side for low beams. On “high”, a third LED on each side comes on. This gives a lot more light output, it’s not just redirecting what was already there! I believe a lot of vehicles with LED headlights are set up like this. I don’t know how the conclusion is reached that everyone with “blue” lights either has brights on or bad aim. But it’s outrageous to believe that every vehicle leaving a factory with LED lights is not in compliance with DOT regs. We are talking about people like me with a brand new, bone stock vehicle. Not the bro-dozers with 8” of lift on stock headlight aim. I just think it’s more reasonable to assume that we have people who drive around looking for reasons to feel like a victim. @KARNUT hit that point well. Anyone who crosses their arbitrary headlight brightness threshold gets hit, and when there’s no reason for it, I hit back.
Mine are aimed correctly so I have no problem giving someone an X-Ray when they decide to flash me. They should redirect their hostility at the jackasses who put LED or HID bulbs in halogen housings. Now that’s glare.
Dealers love nothing more than to move money around on trades. If you get a good price on the new one, they low ball the trade. And vice versa. Both need to be negotiated separately. While you’re not going to beat the house, you can definitely improve. If you’re insistent on trading to this dealer, at least get offers from Carmax and Carvana and have them in your pocket for negotiation. I wouldn’t be surprised if their offers are at the upper end of the 40-43 range. Maybe even more. And don’t write off a private sale either. Whatever tax incentive there is to trading doesn’t really matter when you’re taking 6k under book trade in for the thing.
I drove my 2016 for almost 3 years and didn’t take an 18k hit. That’s like Rolls-Royce levels of depreciation there. Inventory levels are better than the were 6 months ago but they are still very low overall. I was chatting with my sales rep when my truck was getting worked on. They are still having a lot of trouble getting the trucks people want.
55 for an RST? I see two problems...paying a bit too much and being offered way too little. Sell it outright. Don’t get bent by the same dealer twice. Only chance at somewhat of a recovery. Get offers from Carvana, Carmax, etc. They were paying quite a bit for these trucks a few months ago. Supply is still low and the 6.2 RST is in demand for sure.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10154649-9999.pdf That’s the GM process. Daubert does say it can be applied directly over active rust, so you can do as much or as little prep as you want. I would at a minimum get any of the lose flakes off and clean the area. That’s how I do it and it works fine. Touch it up often and it stays looking good.
There is no actual fix. First attempt is to caulk it with Kent seam sealer. Best you can hope for is that they don’t make a huge mess in the process. Sometimes that “repair” lasts for awhile, sometimes not. My sealant job was good for a year. Just leaving it with the slight dribble it recently developed. Usually takes a couple days to get done because there is a cure time before they can leak test and give you the truck back.
I would say just wait and give things a chance. The engine’s already replaced. Not much else major to go wrong. Electronic bugs are everywhere and unavoidable. Look, I hated my 2019 at times. I’ve been to the shop more times than I can count. Given Malibus and Buick Encores as loaners. It’s frustrating but now that it’s sorted out, it’s a great vehicle I enjoy driving. Why the hell would I want to start the process over again in what amounts to the same truck? In the end, the 2021 is the same ****** in the same wrapper and not likely to be 100% perfect either. Refresh inbound. Trading a 20 for a 21 makes no sense unless the thing is actually lemon law-ed and you’re made whole.
Actually a fair question. But “AWD” wouldn’t really seem right either. The single speed transfer case is kinda in between the two, maybe? I like having 4 low, although I admit I hardly use it and could probably live without it.
84152501 is what my 19 came with. Can’t imagine they changed them for 21 but I have no way of knowing. Just don’t spend that much. $85 eBay for a set of four. Still more than the $50 option but a lot less than that dealer price.
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