dsr611

I bought the 52" Husky brand box at HD in June 2017 and have been more than pleased with it. When I got it, they were priced at $598, but they are now up to $898. I got it on my HD card with no interest for 18 months, but paid it off within 9 months. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Industrial-52-in-W-x-21-7-in-D-15-Drawer-Tool-Chest-and-Cabinet-Combo-in-Textured-Black-H52CH6TR9HD/302962883 I looked at the Milwaukee 46" box and a Husky 46" box that they had at the time. The only things different between the boxes was the Milwaukee had smaller drawers on the right side and larger drawers on the left, while the Husky box was just the opposite. The Milwaukee was priced about $150 higher, IIRC. If you have a Harbor Freight close by, check out the boxes they have (US General). They are quality boxes and most of the members on www.garagejournal.com rave about them. If HF would have offered a "no finance charge" credit card, I would have gone with one of their boxes instead of the Husky.

May as well go ahead and get all 4 replaced, or you'll be back for another new sensor before too long.

They don't match because the gauge on the dash (right hand side) is the engine temperature gauge...normal temp on it is around 210°F Transmission temp is shown when scrolling through digital readout on the DIC. 159° is in the normal range for regular driving...towing or hauling will cause the transmission to work harder, causing the temp to go up some. The temp you are seeing, 159°, is well within the normal range

Same issue when changing headlight bulbs also

Easy enough to measure

Well, that answers a bunch of questions everyone wanted to ask but was afraid to ask

You can get a coolant tester from any auto parts store and use it to test your coolant. It will tell you the approximate ratio or concentration of coolant Coolant capacity is listed in the owner's manual on page 5-116. It shows capacity to be 16.6 qts

Video is for a 2009 but it should be exactly the same process

You'll get absolutely no help, especially on an 08 model. The dash on my '10 cracked about 1500 miles out of warranty and GM offered to pay for half and me pay for half, with no warranty on replacement dash. The issue is due to shoddy engineering...there's no reinforcing "ribbing" at the stressed locations on the bottom side of the dash (corners of passenger airbag and just left of center on the arch over the steering wheel). If the dash went 10 years without cracking, consider yourself lucky. There was a facebook page about the cracked dashes and a class action lawsuit...I don't know if it's still around or not. I sold my 10 and got my dad's 3500HD Sierra Denali when he passed away earlier this year, and this $65000+ truck has the crack at the airbag and on the steering wheel arch.

Being on the body line like it is, PDR may not be able to get all of the dent out. Check with PDR first...they should be able to tell you if they can fix it or not. If not, then go body shop route.

Dealer can't tell you the dimensions of the '19 bed? Only width shown on Chevy website is the bed width at wheelhousings ARE website shows a little over 1.5" difference in bed length, though, with the '19 being 97.8" and the '13 being 96.2"

Instrument clusters (stepper motors) failing causing gauges to read incorrectly, or in some cases, not at all. Simple rebuilds can be found everywhere for about $125 or so (probably cheaper now...it was several years ago when I had our 05 Tahoe IC rebuilt), or you can do it yourself. Most rebuilds even include updating the backlighting.

No way to know if they are about to fail unless the CEL light comes on and gives you a code for the sensors. Still have the original O2 sensors in my wife's 05 Tahoe with close to 275000 miles with no problems (other than when the dog chewed the wires going to one of them). Tahoe still runs great and would get 18+ mpg if my wife's right foot wasn't so heavy. She had an 01 Accord, purchased brand new, and had 1 of the O2 sensors fail after about a year and a half and less than 20000 miles.

Sounds like a switch issue...corrosion on the plug/socket maybe. Get an electronics safe contact cleaner, spray it down, and with a small needle file hit the contacts a bit to remove any corrosion that may be starting. Barring that, you can buy a new switch

RPO codes https://www.marshu.com/images-website/car/gm-firebird-camaro-rpo-car-door-manufacturer-codes/gm-firebird-camaro-GM-RPO-car-codes.pdf