Go to local auto parts store...NAPA, Advance, Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, etc and look through their selection of body panel clips (or whatever they're called). You'll likely find something there that will work or can be modified to work (or use a zip tie to tie it up out out the way) It's not a GM OEM part, but if all you're needing is a clip to secure the cable...look through these; one of them is bound to work for you https://www.oreillyauto.com/search/2001/gmc/sierra-1500?q=routing+clip
Fine to drive...though, the other gauges (speedo, tach, fuel, etc) probably won't be too far behind on failing also. Cluster repair probably only runs $100 or so. Had the cluster in our 05 Tahoe repaired several years ago and it was $125. If you're handy with a soldering iron you can order the stepper motors and do it yourself (I'm sure there's several hot-to videos on youtube).
Those codes refer to the O2 sensors P015B--https://www.autocodes.com/p015b_chevrolet.html P015D--https://www.autocodes.com/p015d_chevrolet.html Oil on spark plug can cause a misfire. Need to find out what is causing that https://mechanicbase.com/engine/oil-on-spark-plugs/
Possible causes... Dead or weak battery Faulty Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) module Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) module harness is open or shorted Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) module circuit poor electrical connection Check Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) module connector for water If battery is good like you say, then looks like you need to concentrate on the throttle actuator control
My '10 had issues and I followed the video and didn't have any issues after that. If new switches didn't do the job, need to move to checking the wiring.
2000-2014 Silverado/Sierra/HD It's the same engine/drivetrain as the 2500 Silverado/Sierra HD. Most of the electrical will be the same also https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/forum/4-2000-2014-silverado-sierra-hd/
To each his own...when I bought my '10, it was the chrome that caught my eye. After a few months, I hated the look of the chrome and wound up getting some color matched handles and mirror caps
Changed my oil once and the gasket didn't seal. I drained the oil and caught it in a clean container, replaced the gasket (actually punched one out of a piece of garlock we had at work), put the plug back in and reused the "old new" oil...only had a couple hundred miles on it when I found the gasket leaking so the oil still had plenty of life. Plug didn't leak afterwards.
This is my experience with our 05 Tahoe (same engine and drive train--310000 miles and still going)... I forget exactly what the codes are, but the evap and vent valve solenoid and charcoal canister will cause codes to be thrown and also cause it to take a long time to fill up with gas. Blend door actuator goes bad (especially on the vehicles with dual zone climate control). AC will blow cold on driver side and hot on passenger side (or vice versa). Actuator on passenger side isn't that bad to change, but the one on the driver side requires the entire dash assembly to be removed. Instrument cluster has faulty stepper motors that control the gauges. They are prone to failure. Was about $125 to repair ours several years back (probably cheaper now).
Dealer Sales Solutions on Amazon shows to have it... https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-15005427-Door-Molding-Rear/dp/B00GUBX7UI/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=15005427&m=A3D9I70CHHIHSF&qid=1593269815&s=merchant-items&sr=1-1
Sounds like you want someone to come show you what you need to do...owner's manual is as plain as day To raise the truck, put the jack in the area below... Front tire---there is a bracket for the jack on the frame Back tire---a couple of inches in from the shock bracket Once jacked, up place the jack stands under the frame. Don't see where the confusion comes in
When mine were in car seats, I put a piece of 1" thick foam under the car seat and covered with a towel. My seats were cloth, but they held up just fine My 98 Sierra had a car seat in the back pretty much from 2001 until I traded it in in 2010. My '10 Sierra had a car seat (sometimes 2) in it from 2010 until 2017. Neither truck had any damage to the truck seat
Start with checking the fuse block. Ensure you have power at the fuse blocks (there is the one in the cab and another under the hood). Then check fuse(s). If fuse(s) are good, then move to wiring...check power at the connector to radio (probably need a wiring diagram to find which one is power). Good thing about those "older" trucks is that you don't need any extra modules or anything to make the radio work...just power to radio, ground, and wiring to the speakers. If all else fails, you can always run new wiring from fuse block to radio if needed.
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