dsr611

Check McGard or Gorilla. To get by the rust issue, you would need either SS or Ti alloy lug nuts ($$$) or to use a ratchet/socket instead of an impact. With the impact, you're knocking the coating off of the lug nuts every time you rattle them down

Check with Crutchfield to make sure, but thinking this might be what you need https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541RP5GM31/PAC-RP5-GM31-Wiring-Interface.html?tp=2977

what year truck I got a Diablo InTune when I had to rebuild my '10 and delete it

Make sure the oil pump pickup tube is seated in the boss it fits into. When I redid my 05, I put the PU tube in, tightened the bolt and fired it up when I got everything back together. Oil pressure never did come up. Drained the oil, dropped the pan again, and found that the PU tube wasn't fully seated. Finally got it seated and everything bolted back up and oil pressure was over 40 when I fired it back up

It's not an OEM remote start so dealership probably couldn't help. Check with a local car stereo shop or check the python site for a dealer local to you https://www.pythoncarsecurity.com/WhereToBuy/

Been almost 4 years...I'm pretty sure the truck has been bought by now, either by OP or someone else, or owner decided to keep it for himself

From another post they've made... Good luck though

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/wve,5S13677,impact+/+crash+sensor,1564

What are we looking at here?

Yes, it's possible that the AFM could be deactivated...only way to really know (if you don't have the capabilities to read the programming) is to ask the previous owner. But, with 4000 miles on it when you got it, I doubt it was deactivated. When I had the lifters/cam replaced due to the ingenious AFM crap and deactivated that mess, I went from about 17 mpg up to a little over 18 mpg The oil consumption rate is par for the course with this generation of 5.3s. There is a night/day difference in the pre-AFM engines and the AFM engines in oil usage.

https://www.hubbfilters.com/cleaning-system

There use to be a thread on here about this issue but I can't find it. I did find this youtube video about the squeaking and rattling and it even has a link to the parts on amazon if you want to replace with oem parts.

If you raise the bottom part of the seat and look under it, close to the back wall, you'll probably see some pieces of broken plastic. There is a "hook" (for lack of better terms) on the back of the seat upright that latches over a loop on the back wall that keeps the seat back from falling forward. I'd bet the plastic has broken and the metal "hook" is rubbing on the loop, causing the squeaking. You can pull the seat out and put some heat shrink or electrical tape over the hook

Check Crutchfield

On a '23 with that few miles, you don't fix it. You find some way to get it to the dealership service department and let GM fix it