dsr611

Well, the original post is over 8 years old. The board has been through lots of changes in 8 years

According to Rock Auto you need AC Delco #12637202 or AC Delco #K060923HD if you want the heavy duty belt

In the same boat with my '11. I've found some online, but the sellers are asking premium+ prices for them...upwards of $4000 in most cases. Even found one place that will rebuild/repair it for only $2500 I found mention of a place on one of the Duramax boards called G7 computers in NY that will rebuild them. Found reviews online for them and they seem to be legit. Also found a place called Flagship One that claims to be able to rebuild/repair them. I sent them an email this morning inquiring about a rebuild/repair. https://www.g7computers.com/ https://www.fs1inc.com/transmission-control-module.html

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/brake-lines-direct-fit/make/chevrolet/model/silverado-1500/brake-line-material/stainless-steel https://www.sstubes.com/collections/1999-2010-chevy-silverado-prebent-lines

If the fuse is blown, no amount of wire wiggling or shifting is going to make it work

Had a Line-X liner in my '10 1500. No complaints at all. Have a Rhino liner in my '11 3500HD (was dealer installed option; they used the local rhino liner dealer for bed liners). Line-X is a harder rubber material with a sharper texture. The Rhino liner is softer feeling. Never had any issues with anything sliding around in either one. The Rhino liner seems to have faded a lot more than the Line-X (both were installed within a year of each other)

Range AFM disabler is plug and play...plug it in and go. They are safe; won't damage anything. Other than than, my suggestion would be to not buy a vehicle with AFM (don't know if GM even offers anything with a gas pusher without AFM now or not).

Probably a long shot, but I was wanting to see if anyone had an underseat (rear) sub enclosure, and if so, could you post the measurements (don't want to do a seat lift if I can get by with not doing so)? Getting ready to install a new HU, amp and subs (still debating on 8s vs 10s). I've found several places online that sell them, but would rather build it myself

How old is the battery? Have you had it checked? When a battery starts to go dead in these vehicles with everything controlled by a computer, crazy things start happening. I'd go get the battery load tested first

My '10 Sierra did the same thing...window(s) would intermittently work with no rhyme or reason as to when they would or wouldn't. I was about to break down and buy a new switch when I ran across this video on YT. Pulled the switch, cleaned it up, and reinstalled it and it worked fine from then on

Make your post in the 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500 forum https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/forum/3-1999-2013-silverado-sierra-1500/ OR in the Ask the GM Technician forum https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/forum/81-ask-the-gm-technician/

Thank you for bumping a 6 year old thread back to the top with a reply that has absolutlely nothing to do with the original 6 year old post

Looking at the parts on RockAuto, both years have the same part # for GM Genuine calipers (doesn't say if theyre 4 piston or not though)

Should have mentioned...I think I know where the leak is coming from. There is a small hole in the top part of the housing that I'm gonna be sealing up

Had to run up to the store a few minutes ago and I guess the gremlins were still asleep this morning when I left...blinker is back to acting up again now.