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Spurshot last won the day on March 16 2017

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About Spurshot

  • Birthday 10/08/1956

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    Trucks, airplanes Camaros, horses, hunting, vintage shotguns, 1911s. Bird dogs.
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    2014 GMC All Terrain SLT CC 4WD STD Bed

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  1. One video I saw mentioned not wanting to lift it more than an inch, due to some wires he was worried about(?) He also strapped the exhaust to the crossmember before jacking the trans.
  2. You can go that route, which gives you a valve that supposedly operates at a minimum of 158F, but people are still seeing light load operating temps well above that. People that are doing either an aftermarket thermal bypass valve disable kit, Superior STL010 | Superior Transmission Parts - The problem solvers of the transmission industry ...Or by just disassembling the OEM valve and changing the orientation of a couple parts inside. 6l80 bypass pill flip - Google Search are seeing very low temperatures.
  3. Not nearly as bad as I imagined. I ran my truck up on 5" race ramps placed between the front and rear tires and backed up the ramps, chocked it, set the brake. You could use a jack and some blocks or jackstands instead. My driveway is slanted and I don't like to use jacks or stands when working under a vehicle, so I use ramps or blocks when possible. This allowed more room to work under it, got the ramps out in front of the front tires and allowed side access, as well leveled my truck in my slanted driveway. Placing a large sheet of heavy plastic down saved a lot of cleanup of the driveway. It was worth whatever that plastic sheet cost. I used a ratchet strap as mentioned above and didn't loosen or jack anything. But I think the thing that helped me was pulling the line and purging all the fluid out before dropping the pan. The pan only had about a quart or less in it when I did drop it. So it was easy to maneuver around and get it out. I was prepared to loosen the trans mount and jack it, but it just wasn't necessary. The cheap chinese ratchet strap sorta folded the sideplates when I tightened it, so I simply cut it loose after the pan went back on. Oh...get one of those cement mixing tubs to catch the oil spillage. Medium Mixing Tub A-41 (homedepot.com) And one of these graduated buckets to measure what you drain...or any other way to measure what you drain and see the color of what's coming out. United Solutions 10-Quart Plastic Paint Bucket in the Buckets department at Lowes.com The hoses you'll need are a couple feet of clear vinyl 1/2" I.D. and 3/8 O.D. (1/4" I.D.) poly (milky white) hard plastic hose (think ice maker line).
  4. To get back to those had asked me questions and just fill in blanks... I used one Harbor Freight ratchet strap ~$8 and just looped it around the pipe behind the Y and the crossmember. I cranked it down to almost touching the crossmember, and didn't loosen or remove any supports or the manifold connections, nor did I loosen the transmission mount and raise the transmission. I was pleasantly surprised when the pan just twisted a bit and came out. As for fluid in the pan upon removal, I had unhooked the upper line on the thermal valve block, shoved a piece of 3/8" O.D. hard poly line into the thermal valve block (round/taper the edges of the hard poly line to allow it to push in without damaging the seal in the block), and slipped a 1/2" I.D. clear hose over the line that I removed from the thermal valve block, and ran those two lines into a 2 gallon graduated pail (so I could measure fluid removed) I bought at HomeD or Lowes. Here's the step that was a mess...I started the engine and let it idle until all the fluid pumped out. Best to have two people for this. The line jumped out of the pail and sprayed around a cup of fluid all over. Fortunately, I had layed out about a 10 x 10 ft sheet of heavy plastic. Once the fluid was pumped out, the pan only had a little fluid left in it when I was manuevering it out. I installed the new filter and pan with the drain plug (~$6 ea for GM engine 12mm x 1.75 drain plugs with a seal built-in. I bought 3 from my local Chevy dealer to have a couple spares). Then I filled with the amount of fluid I had collected from draining. I started the engine with the same hose arrangement on the upper line of the thermal valve block as the earlier step, and purged out the remaining amount of fluid that was dark and saw clean fluid (~3-4 qts), equal the total system volume of about 13 qts. During this process, I had to overfill it as I was doing this all by myself. If you have a helper, you can have them add fluid as you purge. I'm confident I have all new fluid in there now, with little to no old fluid in the converter, lines and cooling system.
  5. Thanks, but you didn't see the mess I made. Had to go to the DIY car wash to clean up the bottom of the truck and I showered with Dawn dish detergent. Still thinking about how to go about that converter changeout. I know an acquaintance (good friend of my brother) that owns a Jeep/truck 4x4 shop that would be game for the job. He's one of the few places I trust to work on anything. He rebuilt a transfer case on a 1999 1/2 2500 I had. But he's about 60 miles away. I could flat tow my jeep out to drop it off. The other nagging voice in the back of my head is the DOD delete. I put 33x12.50 tires on it when it was almost new and I noted that with the extra load from the tires DOD didn't engage on flat ground, only when I was going downhill. So, it doesn't get much use and may have saved it so far.
  6. I did the pill flip during the fluid change. Installed the pan with the drain plug, new filter, purged about 4 qts after the change to get clean fluid flow. Old fluid wasn't burnt. Total replaced fluid was about 13.5 qts of AC Delco Dex VI. The debris in the pan didn't look bad.
  7. My father (1917-1985) was an Olds man. My earliest memories of his cars was of a 1955 Olds Super 88. Fast car in its day.
  8. All steering systems will have some feedback or "backdrive" the steeriing wheel. The camber in the road will make a vehicle try to steer away from the crown. A bump may make it steer slightly as well. This is due to the caster in the steering system. But you sound like you're experiencing something unusual?
  9. Kevin, I don't have your model truck, but when I went to a larger tire on a stock wheel, I turned the wheels to full lock each direction and measured clearances, then calulated the difference using the "section width" of the tire. Look up the specs of each tire and extrapolate using the clearances you came up with. A 35x12.5 is a big tire. I'd be surprised if you could get away with the stock wheel offset.
  10. I shaped the threaded bung I made last week got it welded on today. I can TIG weld a bit, but my friend has a full-time welder that is good, so I don't bother anymore.
  11. Marty, I have a 5.3L. Not sure if these are problematic or not.
  12. I'm no A/C tech, but I do my own A/C work and have books on the subject. Failing to engage the clutch on the compressor can be a number of causes. It can be a low system pressure (not enough charge), bad pressure sensor, bad clutch, bad control head unit, or possibly the relay your tech mentioned. There may be other causes like bad wiring as well. But since the last work that was done was recharging the system, first, I'd put gauges on the system to ensure proper pressures. Your tech should know to do that.
  13. Lots of good info in this thread. I'm resurecting this old thread, since I'm about to drop the pan on my 2014 6L80 at the 94k mark. I figure I'd put a new pan on with a drain plug and do this pill flip at the same time. ...if I haven't already killed this trans. I have a new GM pan and I'll weld in a bung today and get to it. I'll check for how much metal is in the pan. Dreading this...
  14. I'm no techy with these devices but, I'd start with a fully charged battery. 12.03v sounds really low.
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