Spurshot replied to Zane's topic in 2019 Silverado & Sierra 1500Octa-squ-ound. Or just "Squound" for short.
I had a friend, Al Budney, that built a log cabin up around that altitude near Pikes Peak. It was quite a place, but all dirt roads to get there. I remember helping to roof the "patio" in 1984 and setting in the hot tub room with windows all around. The Rockies are a pretty place to live. Enjoy.
The 5w-50 recommendation is a surprise. While I seem to recall GM recommending that weight oil for tracking a Vette, this is contrary GM's recommendation for a DD in average conditions. It's been stated many times by oil mfrs that the most wear, in a typical car on the road, occurs upon start-up. I beleive that is on the Mobil 1 site as well. The BITOG site has some information on this as well. One of the big touted advantages of synthetics is their ability to flow well in cold. This reduces the time the engine is running with no oil flow on the bearings. The flip side is a heavy weight oil maintains bearing floatation during extreme pressures better than a lighter weight. So, I think the question becomes: How do you drive and in what climate conditions? For example; if using like a typical car, the OEM recommended weight would more likely than not be the best choice. Conversely, if you drive in hot weather for long trips, towing heavy loads up mountains, a heavy weight makes sense. I see it 'as a trade-off of where your particular usage produces the most wear.
My experience with EBC is they are great rotors. No warpage on any of the ones I've used in the past. I had warpage with OEM GM rotors in the past. It was mild, but it was there and causing pulsing. I have Wilwood 14.25" front brakes with the 6 piston calipers. They've been fantastic at stopping, but they are dirty. They lasted nearly 60,000 miles. OEM pads are probably the best for most light duty use. They last a long time and have nearly no dust.
I second Tom's suggestion above. When electrical gremlins start appearing, check the grounds. And the only quantitative way to check them is with a voltmeter, checking resistance across the connections/cables. If you still don't solve it, get a dashcam and mount it where you can see the instruments (tach, oil pressure, etc., and outside the vehicle. This way you can document the occurrences. You may end up needing documentation/evidence if the dealer(s) can't find or fix it and GM won't help. This is a safety issue. Imagine if it quit when you were driving across a desolate area in extreme weather or it quit on a bridge or railroad track. Make sure the dealer understands your concern for safety.
Pad choice depends on how you use your truck and what you want from it vs what you give up. The OEM pads are great for most people wanting low dust and normal driving performance. If you want higher braking forces, many of the aftermarket pads like Hawk and Stop Tech produce some high performance pads. Some are high friction pads that work well at high temperatures, but not low temps. Some work well all around like the OEM pads. There's a lot of choices. But my experience is that there are always trade offs. If you want higher performance stopping, you will trade rotor wear and likely get a lot more black dust.
My mechanical concerns would be : Transmission and Transfer case (if 4wd) Suspension bushings Shocks Ball joints Steering links Front wheel bearing hubs U-joints Front half shafts (4wd) Water pump bearings Serpentine belt idler bearings Alternator bearings A/C compressor bearings Hoses Brakes Shocks Catalytic Converters Do a compression check on the engine These are most of the biggies I had to do to one of my trucks that I drove to 225,000 miles. Are you insane? Nah. But it would be smart to have a shop check these things
Jerry Reyolds(the CarPro) says this is one of the two best times to buy. The best incentive/ discounts and good selection cross each other at this time. From here on, the selection goes down, but sometimes individual dealers will discount further than factory incentives as the new model year vehicles come in and old stock sits. i bought a truck for 14k off sticker at the end of the calendar year, but had to take a color I hated. When something bothers you about a vehicle, it wears on you, I sold that red 2008 Vmax in 2014 and was relieved. Glad its gone. Hate red. Get what you want, if you can afford it. Me, I like new body refreshes more often than not. From what little Ive seen of the new Silverado/Sierra, I like it better than my K2. They did round the wheelwells somewhat, finally, after squaring them in 1973. But they still look like a 6 year old tried to draw a round wheelwell and got some weird shape, especially the GMC. Who has been in charge of wheelwells for 45 years ...and when is he gonna retire?
If getting a "good deal" outweighs your desire for the latest and greatest doo-dads, get the 2018. There are some incredible deals out there. You may not see this kind of discounting until the next body refresh of the trucks.
Dealers have constraints from GM. If they don't get an approval from GM, they could end up eating the cost. I'd keep the truck if you like it. The next engine has as much chance to make it to 300,000 miles or all the way to a life of hauling a load of lawnmowers as a new truck.
The idea of putting 700 hp in something that has the stopping distance of a cruise ship, corners like a 55 Olds, and has the weight distribution of ... well, a pickup, just isn't attractive to me.
There is no significant difference in the fuel injection system on the 5.3 vs the 6.2. Some of the components have different flow ratings like the injector nozzles and the throttle body, but the design and many parts are the same. There are many more 5.3 equipped trucks and SUVs out there than 6.2 engines. Just by statistics alone, there will be more 5.3 problems. But that doesn't mean you are more likely to have a problem with a 5.3 vs a 6.2. And yes, a tune can have an effect on whether GM will warranty a problem. It just depends on the particular problem.
Spurshot replied to Gorehamj's topic in The NewsroomCompetition keeps a market healthy. It's a loss to all to see Ford step away from the car market. If I were king, I'd focus on being the best in the market segments for the products I made. That could very well be the strategy for Ford. To pickmeup's comment about American auto companies, my observation is that until the 70s, the American companies had no competition in North America. They were never challenged. In the 70s, the Japanese makers started making inroads into the bottom of the market, then they took over that segment and started marching upward thru the market classes, one area at a time. IMO, this happened because of the Japanese culture. They are a proud people culturally. Especially from WW2 forward until about a generation ago. There was no "Army of one" mentality. It was always an "Army of millions" mentality. They were team players. IMO, the U.S. lost the team player spirit in the 60s and it bottomed out in the 70s. I think we've seen a resurgence of team spirit, but it's not comparable to countries like Germany and Japan.
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