Spurshot replied to Shredzy's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraI went with a clear bra film of about the same coverage area as those shown, maybe a bit more. It also covers the painted grill and bumper. I've been pleased with it after 60k.
If the lights work, check for power at the connector under the seat. If there's power, it's likely the heater itself. I can't recall the last time I used my heaters, being in socal. But I do get to colder climates occasionally during the year. I'm going to find out if my heaters work soon.
Spurshot replied to Nitrousbird's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraNo better forum pastime than helping someone spend money.
Possible, but likely incredibly complex and expensive. Probably a complete engine/trans package with ECM/TCM out of a 10 speed truck would be the most direct path. Not sure what a 10 speed would cost new. The 8 speed is about $4k new online, without TCM, harness, etc.. A new truck would be more economically viable.
Spurshot replied to Gorehamj's topic in The NewsroomDoug, Both of those mods increase noise in the cab. Performance increase is teeny-tiny for the $2100 price. As I get older, I like quieter cabs. Just my preference.
I've had the GM skidplates in my garage since the became available. I've procrastinated installing them until today. Pretty simple install. Had to open one hole a bit bigger to align better. Threaded holes had been open to the elements for a couple years too. Had to run the bolts in with wrench to clean the rust out of the threads. Getting ready for a bird hunt for a few weeks up in Idaho. Thought it was time to install the plates I had.
I see any additional new engine as a welcome thing. These forums are filled with years of posts wishing for a small diesel for maximum fuel economy. When it looks like we're about to get one, the whining starts about some thing or another. It's true, we aren't at the point in technology that we can have a small diesel in a 6000lb truck gets 30 mpg, turn in a E.T. slip of 12.0 secs/115 mph, and can make a "half ton" pickup tow 10,000 lbs up a 100% grade at 80 mph. That'd be cool, not that I need to tow 10,000 lbs up a 100% grade at 80 mph or get a 6000 lb truck going 115 mph, but it would be a cool truck. If I want to go 12.0/115 mph, I would get in a new muscle car. If I wanted to tow 10,000 lbs, I would not use a "half ton" pickup nor muscle car. Maybe we'll someday we'll see a "hybrid" or really an automotive version of a Electromotive Diesel. Probably happen in a big rig, if it happened. That might get a half ton to 10,000 lbs tow with a relatively low E.T. too.
My experience with my 14 Crew, standard bed, topper, and gun drawers, 12.50x33x18 tires was that it didn't panic stop well even with extreme pedal pressure. I live in L.A. I drive the busiest freeway in the country to and from work. Panic stops are a part of driving here. It just happens. As soon as I put big tires on the truck and the topper and other things, I noted that it took all I could muster in pedal pressure and it didn't feel like it was stopping well. I bought the six piston Wilwoods in 14.25" since I wanted to keep the 18" wheels for their larger tire sidewall for off-roading. I don't think bigger brakes are extreme overkill, especially with bigger tires. If I were running 20" wheels I'd have gone with 16" rotors. Those OEM Brembos in 16" are a smoking deal IMO, if you can use them. They weren't offered when I did my conversion. I'd take Brembo over Wilwood for similar money. But Wilwood has a good reputation and is prevalent in racing, they're nearby, and they're reasonably priced. I have about 60,000 miles on my Wilwoods and never had a problem. I recently replaced the pads. They are dirty compared to OEM brakes, but so is my SS Camaro with Brembos. I actually gave some thought to machining brackets and rotor hats to adapt 2500/3500 front brakes to my truck. The $2k for the Wilwoods was easier for me to do. If I had more time and less money, I'd probably have done it.
I believe a fully charged battery should be 12.6-12.7 v after it has stablilized from charging. My recollection is 12.2v is about a half charge or less. Driving voltage of the electrical system should be at least 13.7v. and will fluctuate with charging cycles. My recent experience with my 14 Camaro and 14 Truck was that the batteries went south at the 2 - 3 year mark in both. Same battery spec for both. Some batteries I've had go twice as long as these. But it seems common for these OEM batteries to fail around 2 years these days. Everyone wants to be the guy that can come on these forums and say they had a battery go many years. But that just hasn't happened to me in a long time. I have had better luck with premium batteries going longer. I think the 2 DieHard batteries I put in my 2008 truck in 2010 lasted with my brother until a couple years or so ago.
Use the search function on this forum to find related threads. Or use google search if you're more comfortable with google. As for that lift from Rough Country, I can only relate my experience with some RC UCAs I bought. They didn't fit and I would have to carve up my front A-arm mounts a bunch to make them work. I did grind quite a bit until I just decided the amount of material I needed to remove to make them work was not a good idea. I sent them back and bought Cognito UCAs.
My recollection was that someone had this issue on a GMT900 and that model suspension carried over to the K2. They stated that there were 2 large bolts on the front crossmember that needed re-torqueing . "you need to have the front Cross member TIGHTENED.......GM DOCUMENT #4645801" Link to another thread. One guy had a loose steering stabilizer.
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