Absolutely. I bought the full Eibach front end, 2 new springs and 2 new struts. I had a buddy install it in his garage with cheap spring compressors. Somehow during installation, something was messed up. While at the alignment shop, the top nut on the passenger side sheared off and stripped the threads. The driver side is still on, but there are no threads above the nut. Something wasn't done correctly. So after I take delivery of the 1 replacement Eibach strut next week, I'm having the shop disassemble and reassemble everything properly. Everything is 100% new, the existing components having less than 10 miles during the drive to alignment shop. Moral of the story, pay the money and do it right the first time! Doh
This is the drivers side, with nut and washer removed. The threads are good, but when you put the washer back on, there's really not much room at all to screw the nut. I emailed Eibach for their opinion, waiting for a response.
Thank you James! (is your stock, or Eibach?) That's what i thought would be the case. Something appears to be wrong with the spring / strut assembly that doesn't allow the full height of the strut to extend through the truck mount. I ordered 1 new strut to replace the passenger side with the stripped threads. The drivers side, i removed that nut to check the threads and they look fine. When the new strut arrives next week, I'm taking it to a shop to disassemble and redo the installation, plus alignment. Hopefully this doesn't happen again. Anyone know what could possibly cause the strut to be 1/2 inch short at the top? Maybe a perch or bushing installed upsides down?
Could someone with a 2014-2018 1/2 tonne truck take a picture of the top of their strut (from above - in the engine bay) that shows the nut. I want to see if there are threads above the nut when properly torqued. BONUS - if it was an Eibach strut I'd be massively grateful I had a nut strip off (human error) and i will require a new strut, but first i want to see if the other side is abnormally installed. Thank you SO MUCH for your help.
I installed readylift 2.25 rear blocks (# 66-3002) about 2 weeks ago. I can confirm they do have a very slight taper which you install pointing the taper forward. With the U-bolts tightened down, it appears to sit flat & flush against the leaf spring. In the limited amount of driving since then, I haven't noticed any vibrations at all.
My buddy is installing my Eibach pro truck leveling kit on the front, and i'm also doing a Readylift UCA. He just told me the rubber bit on the droop stop is very close to the UCA, limiting its travel. He's suggesting removing the rubber tab to give an extra bit of travel for the UCA Thoughts?
6 month update Today I changed out the filter at 12,000 kms just to see what was going on. Put a ziplock bag over the filter to catch any fluid, then cut open the cartridge to inspect the filter media. I could see some very fine / small particles between the folds, so it does appear to be working. Of course it's only a 2 year old truck, and a 6 month filter, so I wasn't expecting to find much. More peace of mind than anything. Will extend the next change to 2 years.
About 1 year now and 20,000 kilometers, no issues at all with the setup. The filter only receives fluid when the fluid temp is at or above 82C / 180F so it's safe to say the actual mileage is a fair bit less than 20k due to short drives not reaching those temps. I haven't "flipped the pill" yet in the transmission. Changed out my spin-on filter today (Wix 51269 Hydraulic Filter) and cut open the old one just to see what it looked like. Can't see anything with the naked eye, I guess everything is good, transmission shifts like new.
I have this as well in my 2018 Sierra 1500 with the 6L80E trans.....usually only when it sits outside in freezing temperatures. From 2nd to 3rd gear, feeling of a big "clunk" in the driveshaft...then completely normal from there on. I seriously thought my transmission had exploded the first time I experienced it. I installed a 100W transmission pan heater pad and plug it in for a few hours in the morning when it's freezing out, it usually raises the temp of the trans fluid between 10 - 15 degrees celsius, and combined with remote start 5-10 mins prior to driving, sometimes this has helped reduce the clunk. As the memo above indicates, I never have this issue when the trans fluid is above 30c. A friend who's been a GM tech for 25+ years confirmed it's normal, and nothing to worry about.
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