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Spurshot

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Spurshot last won the day on July 21

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About Spurshot

  • Birthday 10/08/1956

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  • Name
    Spurshot
  • Location
    SoCalif
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Trucks, airplanes Camaros, horses, hunting, vintage shotguns, 1911s. Bird dogs.
  • Drives
    2014 GMC All Terrain SLT CC 4WD STD Bed

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Community Answers

  1. Flashbacks of having my Webers or a Quadrajet all apart on the bench. Air correction jets, emulsion tubes, metering rods. Rebuilding and tuning those things is a lost skill.
  2. The bumper bolts are loose or slotted enough to adjust the bumper placement. You can loosen it and adjust it.
  3. Can't comment on "rebuild the injectors". But, they should be able to tell you which are bad and which are good. Seems like it may be cost effective to find out. But, if that's not a factor, $500 for a set, online, is a shotgun approach, if down time is a factor.
  4. So, I had this happening on a 2008 GMT900. I had to go back and look, but it was the control arm bolts that were not fully torqued. Not loose, but not fully torqued. Other members have had the same experience.
  5. Question for those that have studied this a lot more than I: Is an open/no thermostat/pill flip going to give a quicker transmission fluid warm-up than a thermostat equipped transmission? I ask this because I believe my K2 routes the fluid through the engine coolant radiator, which warms very quickly. My question is more in the context of cold weather below freezing.
  6. Your thought about the injectors being suspect, prompted a memory of the late Russ Collins (RC Engineering motorcycle racing/performance products). In his later years, he started a fuel injection business. One of the services they provide is injector cleaning and flow testing. A few years back, a friend with a small foreign car wanted to have his injectors flow tested and cleaned. That was my only contact with RC Injectors. They're in Torrance, CA. Here's their website. RC Fuel Injection > Contact
  7. Old thread, but always relevant. Like most of you, I have a mix. Some Snap-On, Craftsman, etc. I've had a combination end wrench set from Tekton for a couple years now. I'd say the fit on fasteners and finish of the wrenches are on par with any of the best. I can highly recommend Tekton.
  8. I am in the market for some new jack stands and saw this thread and thought I'd resurrect it. One pair of my stands are something the previous homeowner left behind. They are ratchet type of unknown origin. My other pair are the pin type that have a tube that is split into 3 legs. Very thin and light. Both sets are sketchy. I always leave a floor jack partially loaded under my vehicles when using these jackstands. I even leave wheels/tires under there when I can. I think I've used up my 9 lives. I have a soon to be lifted jeep on 37s and my mostly stock Sierra 1500 crew. Looking at something like the Martin International. What do you guys have?
  9. That's my truck. I didn't notice it for quite a while. Just a year before the pandemic started, I saw it because the leak was bad enough to have wet the bottom of the engine where I could see it during oil changes. It was getting onto the crossmember and on the AC compressor, and other things as well. There were no/few drips on the driveway. But it was getting pretty well distributed under there. Oil leaks tend to get progressively worse. I had taken it in to the dealer before the pandemic for the recalls. While there, I asked if they could let me know what it would cost to fix the leak (which was of unknown source, at the time). The service writer quipped "$5000". I'm sure to drive me off. It did. So, a couple months ago, I get up the steam to try to address this leak, leading to that thread you linked to. I think you'll find this is a very simple job, even if you don't do much of your own maintenance. Took me twice as long to type this as fixing it. You'll need a Torx bit set and a 1/4" drive ratchet and short extension. I'd recommend you clean the area before doing anything else. You don't want any dirt getting into the engine. I had oil everywhere and coated with many miles of dirt from off-road. So, I bought a few cans of Autozone store brand Engine Degreaser and went to a quarter car wash. I had to clean underneath as well. Your engine doesn't look bad at all. Still dropping that front splash shield and cleaning up a bit under the crankshaft area can't hurt. That seal/O'ring is about $9 at the dealership. Fixing oil leaks is particularly satisfying to me. I hate a leaky engine.
  10. That lower pictured hub looks like it may have needed some persuasion to out of the knuckle. When I installed my hubs, I liberally greased the bores of the knuckles, the splines, and also the snout of the wheel side. When I disassembled everything, the brake rotor hats were corroded (aluminum hats of the Wilwood brakes) to the point they were froze on the hub snout. The silicone grease I used is 500F drop point. Hopefully, that helps keep the rust and aluminum corrosion down.
  11. I recently bought a bunch of stuff from Rock. I guess I'd forgotten about the shipping issues I had in the past. One part left AZ and went to NY, then back to me in CA. It was damaged and had to be returned. The replacement part was missing special hardware.
  12. So, being retired and having another vehicle to drive, I don't work very fast or hard on these projects anymore. Besides, half the time I was dealing with sending back damaged parts or lost parts in shipping. Turning the rotors didn't work out. Had to replace them. I found some close-out rotors on Wilwood's website that had the dimensions to fit my application. But they weren't drilled. I actually prefer not to have them drilled anyway. They were more than 40% off the drilled and slotted rotors that came with this set. $518 each is the regular price. So I was thrilled to find the close-out rotors. The sales staff verified fitment and I picked them up at will call in their Camarillo plant. Anyway, I'm back together except for greasing everything and putting the wheels/tires on, then rotating tires front to back. My fronts had been cupping which led me to this work. BTW, I just want to give recognition to the folks at Moog Automotive. I either misplaced one of the balljoint nuts or it may have been lost in shipping, since the boxes the lower control arms came in were compromised with holes everywhere. The nut is a high grade, flanged, castle nut, that is not available separately and not common in hardware stores. I called Moog Tech Support and Matt provided me with the thread size and said that this was not sold separately, but he could send one out as a courtesy. I accepted and thanked him. Great service from Moog. They have been my go-to maker for suspension and steering parts for a long time. Now, they are at the top of my list for customer service.
  13. My neighbor had a truck that had lost charge over the years. He asked if I would be able to recharge it. I said I'd try. I vacuumed it down and it held. So, I put in the charge. Still no cooling. Eventually, I took a shot and replaced the dryer, and recharged it. That fixed the problem. If the desiccant becomes saturated, apparently it blocks flow and the high side pressure switch limits the compressor engagement. Most of the guidance I've read says to replace the dryer whenever servicing the system
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