I appreciate everyone's experience. I've never seen anything come on on the dash for AFM. All of my MPG are done manually. 13.5 is all I get and I check it almost every time I fill up. When I tow my 20' Skeeter I get about 11 mpg. I've read enough horror stories about AFM to make me think twice about getting it turned back on. Of course I'm assuming it was at some point turned off prior to my purchasing the truck. But there is no doubt that the AFM is currently turned off. There is nothing on my display that shows mpg while I'm driving.
i don't burn any oil at all. I use mobile one full synthetic and I change it every 5K. I guess I can live with getting 13.5 mpg without the AFM. Sounds like the side affects of turning it on may not be worth it.
I called my local GMC dealership and spoke with their service department about whether AFM could be turned off. The service manager I spoke to said he didn't know and he suggested that I contact GM. The dealer has my trucks info in their system, so I figured it wouldn't be difficult for them to help me figure this out. Looks like I was wrong. I haven't called GM yet. Based on what I've read on AFM experiences from other members on this forum, I'm certain that AFM is not currently active on my truck. But based on the Vehicle build Information sheet it specifically calls out PDU - Power tech package, vortec 5.3L V8 engine w/Active fuel management.
I bought a used 2013 GMC Sierra 5.3 ext cab last year. Bought it from an older gentlemen that only put 6K on it. I've put 10K on it during the past year. I get 13.5 mpg on average, which is not a big deal for me as the 2000 GMC sierra 5.3 I had for 15 years got 14.5 mpg on average. The option list for my truck includes AFM. Since the AFM has never been active since I've owned the truck I'm guessing the previous owner turned the AFM off. Is it worth the trouble of turning the AFM on? I have friends that have the newer GMC/Chevy 1500 series, 5.3 and they are telling me they are getting 20+ mpg with AFM on the highway. Is this experience consistent.
I'm installing leather seat covers in my 2013 GMC Seirra ext cab SLE. I've finished the front seats. It looks like the rear split bench seats will need to come out to put the covers on because the back rests are so close to the back wall. Has anyone run into this issue. I'm guessing all I have to do is remove the bolts on the floor holding the seat frame in place to remove the seat. Is that correct.
Update - I ended up replacing both hub bearings, which resolved the issues with the ABS light. I'm glad this frustrating problem is over with. One thing I did learn is that it's not a good idea to remove the wheel sensor from the hub. They break too easily. Also, none of the codes pointed to the passenger side wheel sensor. I went to my local dealer and they charged me $59 to road test my truck with a tech II scanner. They suggested that both wheel bearings be replaced before doing anything else. I took it home and replaced the other side and that resolved the problem. The part cost me $119 and an hour of my labor. Dealer wanted $619 parts/labor. Aftermarket shop down the road wanted $319 parts/labor. Thanks for the advice guys
Ok....now that I have the codes, two of them point to the left front wheel. So I checked out the left front wheel bearing again and I think it may be going bad. It's not terrible but ther is some play. I'm having a buddy come over and give me his opinion. I figure I better rule out the wheel bearing issue before moving on the EBCM module.
Please forgive me for being stupid but if the heads of the screws are facing the floor of the truck, which means you can't see them, you can only feel them, and there is only maybe 2" between the heads of the screws and the underside of the truck, how can you get a dremel or something in there to grind off the heads?
I have a 2000 Z71 sierra with all of the symptoms of the EBCM module gone bad. My ABS light comes on Intermitently, when the light is off the ABS will engage at different speeds when braking. I've checked all of the grounds, changed my brake fluid, replaced the front wheel sensors and checked my wheel bearings. I spent two hours trying lying on my back with rust remover dripping on my face trying to remove just the EBCM module - 4, Torx 20 screws and couldn't get one of them out. Is this a lost cause? Has anyone been able to remove just the EBCM without removing the entire pump? I've removed the bolts attaching the unit to the frame and tried twisting it, but I'm afraid I will break the brake lines if I twist it to where I can see the torx screws. The EBCM module couldn't be in a worse spot. Seems like my only other option is to remove the whole unit. From what I've read on this forum, after removing the whole unit, I won't be able to bleed the air out of the lines and module without taking the truck to the shop and having them use a tech 2 scanner. If I have to do this, will I abe able to drive the vehicle after reinstalling the unit?
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