Starman, the part is stuck in the steering knuckle. While not a press fit, the hub assembly and knuckle have a lot of contact surface area which rusts together. My driver's side came apart easily, but passenger side was a pain especially since my hub fell apart before it came out of the knuckle. Had to use an air hammer/chisel to get mine out.
Mine "squeaked" like that too when I first bought the truck with 100K on it. The pads and rotors had just been replaced so I thought it was just those components getting settled in. Turned out to be the hub bearings. Never did really growl. Next thing that happened was pieces parts started falling out. Luckily was a quarter mile from home and got it parked before it totally fell off.
PTXer replied to TEWNCfarms's topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500Bought Moog hub assemblies from Summit Racing. If I remember correctly $115 a piece. Better price than anyone else and their main showroom is local to me. Didn't want to go cheap. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
PTXer replied to TEWNCfarms's topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500Probably easiest to replace the entire assembly. You get new ABS sensors with them too. Did mine in an afternoon.
The RTV does not have any resistance to gasoline. You would probably be better off using a specialized epoxy if the broken piece can actually be repaired. Just make sure the area is thoroughly cleaned and sanded.
Unfortunately they are leaking. The supply line right where it connects into the nylon tank line. I could just replace that section that goes to the fuel filter, but will eventually rust through somewhere else I'm sure.
I've got the typical rusted fuel lines on my 2003 and was thinking of doing them myself. (luckily the brake lines were already done) I've read that the bracket on the bell housing is a pain, but do I really have to remove the anti-lock control unit and torsion bar bracket/crossmember? I saw that in some directions for replacing fuel lines on an '05. Looking at two section pre-bent lines from Lines-to-go. Thanks for any tips or advice.
Well its not the fastener. Thanks to the good old Northeast Ohio winters, the road salt has corroded the case wall because of this tag. Hopefully I can get some epoxy to seal this leak, although I have been experiencing a growl from 65mph up. Someone has diagnosed a similar thing on their truck as the transfer case. I don't really want to have to replace this thing!
What the heck is this on the rear transfer case half and why would it be leaking? Obviously corroded, but why does it go all the way through? Replacement case halves do not show any holes there. Ideas for fix?
Could "torquing" the rear end cause the pan to leak? Last week, my rear end wheel hopped pulling away from an intersection and that night the pan started leaking. Up to that point had been a perfect leak free truck since I bought it in September.
Muddkatt, I'd be interested to know what you did only for the opposite reasons of GMC-AT. Mine does not chime. I use my seat belt regularly so that's not the problem. The thing I don't like is that there is no reminder chime if the lights are left on.
Chris, as I said I work for Permatex. The red gasket maker is older technology best used on exhaust manifolds as it has a high temperature resistance. The Ultra Grey is much more resistant to coolant. Its the only thing I would use on water pumps. Grey Gasket Maker
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