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About PTXer

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    2003 GMC Sierra 1500
  1. Depending on where you live or where the truck is from, rusting brake and fuel lines are something to look out for. My e brake system is totally gone as well.
  2. Replacing fuel lines

    I paid about $200 for a replacement set from Lines To Go. Was going to do myself but heard its difficult to get the bracket off the top of the bell-housing. I'm also not sure if I can get the pre-bent lines around the ABS module and torsion tube crossmember (don't want to have to take those lose). It can also be difficult to get the connections at the fuel tank apart if they're really rusty (like mine). I'll be getting a quote for a mechanic to do soon.
  3. Transfer case info

    You can get those RPO codes from the label on the inside of the glove box.
  4. Transfer case info

    What is your RPO code? That should narrow it down. It might be stamped/labeled on the case as well.
  5. Rear Diff

    When I did mine, I found that when I pounded the 6 point socket on them to get them off, they "cleaned up" fairly well and I ended up reusing them without any issues. You are replacing that cover right? What else you planning on doing?
  6. Does it make noise (clicking/clunking) at low speed going around a sharp turn? That's usually how they sound when first starting to fail. Just a matter of time though with a cut boot. I dont think they are too expensive and not terribly hard to replace.
  7. My 03 has a vibration at 65 and I too have already replaced hubs. Another thing I have not checked that supposedly can generate vibrations is U joints. Not sure the easiest way to check those, but they're relatively cheap so might just replace them for the heck of it. Glad to see you back on the forum Chris. You've been absent for awhile.
  8. Oil change

    For my 2003, turn key on (do not start), press accelerator 3 times holding to floor on third time until message resets.
  9. Just to update this thread, I did drain the case and sand/grind the area and applied epoxy (see first pic). It seems to have sealed the leak nicely. BUT! Now the very bottom case half bolt area is also corroded and leaking! This one won't be so easy since I won't be able to fully drain the case so there's no leaking fluid while I make the repair. What a PITA
  10. I have a set of replacement fuel lines ready to go too, but am not looking forward to that bellhousing nut. I supposedly have to remove the ABS module and torque tubes crossmember to get the back half of the set in. I have also read to remove the front driveshaft and use two 12" extensions and a swivel socket to get that thing off from the back. Also read that someone sat up on top of his engine and reached down around and got it off that way. Let us know how it goes....
  11. Starman, the part is stuck in the steering knuckle. While not a press fit, the hub assembly and knuckle have a lot of contact surface area which rusts together. My driver's side came apart easily, but passenger side was a pain especially since my hub fell apart before it came out of the knuckle. Had to use an air hammer/chisel to get mine out.
  12. Mine "squeaked" like that too when I first bought the truck with 100K on it. The pads and rotors had just been replaced so I thought it was just those components getting settled in. Turned out to be the hub bearings. Never did really growl. Next thing that happened was pieces parts started falling out. Luckily was a quarter mile from home and got it parked before it totally fell off.
  13. Bought Moog hub assemblies from Summit Racing. If I remember correctly $115 a piece. Better price than anyone else and their main showroom is local to me. Didn't want to go cheap. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
  14. Probably easiest to replace the entire assembly. You get new ABS sensors with them too. Did mine in an afternoon.

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