Quadrasteer

Old thread but still helpful. My issue on my '02 SD is that the 2 cables coming from the rear into the intermediate cable are of different lengths, the top one is almost an inch and half shorter that the lower one. I put a new intermediate cable in, tightened up the nut and stepped on the pedal several times, it's still the same. What would cause that one cable to be that much shorter or longer?

You didn't need to take the front shaft out either?? Trying it later, thanks

I called them about leaving that fastener out of their video....if they mentioned how hard it was they probably would have sold less of the kits. You would think that with all the Chevy's and GMC sold with those crap lines that someone would have done a really good tutorial on how to replace them. I'm not really concerned with putting the nut back, if I have to tie strap them, so be it. I wish I (we) could just twist or cut the bracket off and not bother with the nut.

Good to know thanks, was it 13mm or 14mm like the post above? I was thinking of using a u-joint 13mm socket, my u-joint adaptors seem to lock up when bent to far. If you have time post the size of the extensions and if they were wobble or regular so that I can use the exact setup and thanks for the heads up about the flare. I already had to cut the rear OEM plastic connectors off the tubes coming from the tank, the metal lines in them were corroded badly, I'll have to use the plastic Shark Byte like fittings with some poly tube.

Interesting, anything to make the space wider or the nut more visable.

Another good idea...I was thinking of using one of those black airbags that they sell to do the same.

Some of those might work....I'm ready for the last one but it's not big enough. thanks, LOL Good idea about the motor mounts but I don't think it would move forward enough, the gas lines and some wiring are removed anyway.

I tried at the top rear of the engine and so far no go. It's too far down for my hands and no tool that I have, and I have many, will fit enough to turn the nut. There are many different styles of wrenches available today, I'll have to look into them. I can get a long box wrench over the nut but it does get onto it enough and there is almost no room to turn it. You can't even get in there to twist or break it off. Going to try from the bottom and then decide what to do. Called the tech at Dorman and he said that when he worked at GM they got the nut off from the top, very hard, very slow. I can't see how unless they had a special shape wrench.

Back of the engine/top of bell housing....if I could get a mirror and camera shot in I could get the bolt out. Looking for someone that has already done it. From another post: "remove front driveshaft -loosen pass side body mount bolts 2 -3 turns -remove driver's side body mount bolts and jack up the body 1"- use 2x4 over top of mounts - do not use jacks to support body This gave me room. Fortunately the 13mm nut was loose. From underneath it took more than 1 hour to reinstall the bracket - it was all about finding the right angles. I used the Fineline pipe kit which is split into 2 sections to get past the ABS unit(loosened it off the frame. If the fittings are rusted on first use penetrating fluid. If that will not release the collar warm it up with a heat gun to allow it to release from the rusty line. I worked on the pump and lines at a retired person's pace - took me two days.(and about 40 days worth of cursing GM design dept) I would not want to get paid flat rate to change fuel lines especially if they're rusty."

Picture? You can barely see it.....they come with caps on them but thats a good ides to tape it anyway. I know people have done this but it's hit and miss if they're reading this post. I have the tools and the know how but it would be nice to do it without a long struggle.

Interesting, I thought about just cutting it ALL out and leaving that attachment point off. I read that it was not easy to get the new lines in so it might be even harder if the old ones were in the way. I still would like to know how others got that nut off. I might end up just doing what you said, thanks. Great idea for the brake lines too, my SS lines wore through and had to be replaced.

Bought the split Dorman kit to replace the fuel lines on my '02 SD. That stud/nut on the bellhousing is a bitch to get at, I could use some advice on getting it off. I can see it and I sprayed it with penetrant but not sure how to get to it to remove it. If anyone has done this before please let me know....;