PTXer

It was like 4 or 5 months before it started leaking in some other spot and so did total replace.

Did mine with rubber hose and clamps until I was able to replace all the lines (which was a pain).

Did you get this info yet? Will check mine tonight if you have not.

Transfer case is in 2HI. Front wheels are not turning. Noise sounds like coming from transfer case. Was hoping someone might have dealt with this before.

Great info. My shocks are worn too. The CV reasoning sounds very plausible.

OK Here's my sound. Truck is up on jack stands and I'm turning the rear wheels. Camera is under transfer case. Squeaks like this when leaving standing start and eventually stops when going fast enough (20 mph). Fluid in transfer case is fresh. Thoughts?

I've had a similar problem just as you describe, but it comes and goes. When at 65, it goes away when I let off the gas and changes if the truck is "bouncing" from say a dip in the road. Seems like mine comes from the front end. I'm thinking U joints or differential. Haven't had the chance to really look at either.

On my 2003 the rears are mounted to a plate which then bolts onto the axle. I think the fronts just slip on (no plate).

Bumper for either the rear springs (mounted to axle) or the front control arms. Probably the front. The rears are a little longer (taller).

Do they have the same spline count on the back end? While doing some research on transfer cases for my 03, I found out it has 27 on the input (Transfer case). I believe older ones had more (like 32). Not sure about the other differences you note.

John, Permatex makes a hydraulic sealant that cures in the threads and can handle up to 10,000psi. Its in a 36ml bottle which will be more than you will probably ever need. Item number 54540. Since you are using stainless steel, you would also want to use the Surface Prep item 24163 to help it cure.

Look for rusted fuel and brake lines. My transfer case (and differential pan) corroded to the point of leaking as well. Broken exhaust manifold bolts, fresh fluids, smooth shifting.

Maybe bad encoder/motor. Its not positioning the gears in the right spot.

Where was the bad contact?

All the Tech2s I see on eBay state they are not for trucks. Anyone have a better source?

Gotta do mine too. Thanks for the info!

I think its more right in the center at the back of the motor. Indeed difficult to get to. I had someone else install mine.

Depending on where you live or where the truck is from, rusting brake and fuel lines are something to look out for. My e brake system is totally gone as well.

I paid about $200 for a replacement set from Lines To Go. Was going to do myself but heard its difficult to get the bracket off the top of the bell-housing. I'm also not sure if I can get the pre-bent lines around the ABS module and torsion tube crossmember (don't want to have to take those lose). It can also be difficult to get the connections at the fuel tank apart if they're really rusty (like mine). I'll be getting a quote for a mechanic to do soon.

You can get those RPO codes from the label on the inside of the glove box.

What is your RPO code? That should narrow it down. It might be stamped/labeled on the case as well.

When I did mine, I found that when I pounded the 6 point socket on them to get them off, they "cleaned up" fairly well and I ended up reusing them without any issues. You are replacing that cover right? What else you planning on doing?

Does it make noise (clicking/clunking) at low speed going around a sharp turn? That's usually how they sound when first starting to fail. Just a matter of time though with a cut boot. I dont think they are too expensive and not terribly hard to replace.

My 03 has a vibration at 65 and I too have already replaced hubs. Another thing I have not checked that supposedly can generate vibrations is U joints. Not sure the easiest way to check those, but they're relatively cheap so might just replace them for the heck of it. Glad to see you back on the forum Chris. You've been absent for awhile.

Run a compression check?