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Doonatic

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About Doonatic

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  1. Hello GM lovers, I’m back again, with hat in hand, asking for help. Recently, I charged my a/c system back into the proper amount of coolant. Now living in the Desert, “cool” air is considered about 80 degrees on a 110 degree day. So all was fine while running the air. One day the blower motor decided it was done working. After schematic searching, I thought I would try the climate control module. That was not the issue. Then I optested the blower motor itself, and voila, it worked, so that lead me to belive it was the resistor. I changed the resistor, and had to rewire the harness, and blew the fuse. Changed the fuse, blower works. Air compressor kicks on, and I have cold freon going into the condensor. However, I am getting 100 degree air out of the vents. Can anyone help? If I have forgotten something that I may not know of (because I may not know of it) please educate me
  2. @KARNUT a co worker said maybe a blend door actuator? Have you heard of anything like this? It’s an 03
  3. Hello GM lovers, I’m back again, with hat in hand, asking for help. Recently, I charged my a/c system back into the proper amount of coolant. Now living in the Desert, “cool” air is considered about 80 degrees on a 110 degree day. So all was fine while running the air. One day the blower motor decided it was done working. After schematic searching, I thought I would try the climate control module. That was not the issue. Then I optested the blower motor itself, and voila, it worked, so that lead me to belive it was the resistor. I changed the resistor, and had to rewire the harness, and blew the fuse. Changed the fuse, blower works. Air compressor kicks on, and I have cold freon going into the condensor. However, I am getting 100 degree air out of the vents. Can anyone help? If I have forgotten something that I may not know of (because I may not know of it) please educate me.
  4. Old guy, i thought that as well, however when it is in reverse the noise that is emmitting from underneath is coming from the transfer case, not the transmission. Its as if it is a solenoid motor that is not engaging.
  5. Hey yall, got a question for you. For the 2003 2500hd’s, Chevy offered 3 different types of transfer cases. Does anyone know how to identify which transfer case is installed in the vehicle one may have. I am moving into my 3RD transfer case (factory installed chain ground a hole through the case years ago, dealer installed a “new” used one, and now this one will not engage reverse). I am vigorously searching for a new case NOW, because I am afraid my vehicle will leave me stranded very soon. (Side note: I get a grinding noise-like the chain is rubbing ONLY during coasting.) So if anyone can help me find the part numbers or the direction to locate said replacement parts, that would be amazing.
  6. Never mind Starman. They do. Thanks for the link.
  7. Starman, does that company also sell it for the 2003? they look close, but not the same.
  8. Thanks Guys-again. I replaced the cluster a few years ago, with a rebuild from Rockauto. I have noticed there maybe another bulb out in the upper right corner, however, everything else on the cluster works fine. Bruce, you say there is a timer on the cluster, I am curious if it affects RAP in anyway.
  9. so turns out it was the fuel pump. 26 gallons of gas to siphon out, then I was able to drop the tank and replace the pump. I had to test the fuel pressure first. Gauge was reading 32 lbs., every time the engine was bumped. It should be 50-62 lbs. I didn't even notice that classic Chevrolet fuel pump whine. Normally that is a dead giveaway, to a bad pump. However, not bad lifespan for a fuel pump in a truck with 220+k on it.
  10. rojam, my 03 2500hd heated seat (driver-specifically), this last winter started doing what Starman8tdc's were doing. I have not dug into this problem as of yet (maybe because it is summer), I am still trying to tackle the stereo RAP problem first. Baby steps-one at a time. Sorry I could not be of more help. Just know (obviously) you are not alone.
  11. so how then, do you reset RAP, without going to the dealer, and being charged an arm and a leg?
  12. So its been a year without a stereo, and I have finally found a door switch. Someone mentioned in the thread I posted in May of last year, that it was the door strike switch. Well hours and hours searching the end of the internet and $210 later, I finally found one, had it delivered today, and I got it installed tonight. Was excited was finally going to have a stereo again, and not have to pull the fuse anymore. Any one want to take a wild guess as to what happened with the stereo? That's right--it's STILL not turning off. I have disconnected the battery and waited 10-15 minutes (both positive and negative leads). Had all doors closed, put fuse for stereo back into fuse panel, connected battery, and on came the stereo. Keys were in my back pocket. Formulabruce suggested checking the accessory wiring to the stereo (yellow), and maybe that is the issue, and wiring it up to something that quits when the key is shut off (that is looking more and more of an option at this point). Davester suggested it was a third party issue (maybe that wiring harness Crutchfield supplied with the Sony Double Din DVD player). The one thing I do not understand, is why would it just randomly start doing it in 2016/7, when the stereo was installed in 2005, and never had a problem. Regardless, I digress. So RAP is not working. The dome light does come on when the door is opened, and shuts off 20-30 seconds after it is closed. Stereo will not shut off. Dome light with passenger door 20-30 seconds-stereo wont shut off, dome with rear doors-almost immediately-stereo wont shut off. I suppose tomorrow I will tear the dash apart (again) and look for something-anything. I bought the door switch from gmpartsdirect.com https://www.gmpartsdirect.co/oem-parts/gm-latch-15110643
  13. Starman, i have been praying that i didnt. However i did clean the grounds under the door.
  14. Update: So after testing fuel pressure, draining a full tank of gas via hand pump, dropping the tank and replacing the pump (also had to change the electrical connection), cleaning the throttle body and air cleaner assembly, the truck RUNS fine. However when I started it back up to test run, the lights are now all jacked up. Hazards only come on and dont flash, when lights are on or off. When lights are on, and brake is applied, the tail lights go out but the brake lights come on, and so does the third brake and the turn signal lights in the mirrors and the license plate lights go out, and so does the side marker lights. At the same time the computer is not reading the distance to empty, correctly-still. It still shows abt 70 miles off, with th a full tank on the gague. With that, I am convinced it is a bad gauge cluster again.
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