Rob, sorry it has been a minute since you last posted on this. So if RAP cant be reset, can the BCM be reprogrammed or something, to “reboot” RAP? Honestly, I am starting to think that the problem I am having with RAP, is with the radio harness itself, since all the other options work as they are supposed to.
Bob, I have owned my 03 2500hd 4x4 for 13 years. Its lifted with 35’s. In the lifetime of my ownership (13 yrs, 210+K miles) I have replaced H20 pump, xfer case twice, tranny, UCA, ball joints, hub/bearing assemblies, steering components, oil pressure switch, gauge cluster, driver door switch, window motor and regulators, fuel pump, tail lights, headlights, batteries. Yes some of that was from normal wear and tear, some was from theft, some was from poor materials. So i have done a lot to this truck. It is a solid truck, but one I will never own in this configuration AGAIN. As Davester says, check for the obvious stuff first. Then get into the stuff you cant see (i.e. codes). Ask seller if there is a maintenance log. The LS (LQ) motors are pretty stout. Its all the external stuff that will start to go first. It all depends on what you want to “deal” with. Feel free to hit me up if you have any questions.
Hey guys, As some of you know I have asked a few questions before. So you will know I have had my truck for MANY years. So here it goes. When I lived in Tx, I bought a lifetime alignment (7 years ago). (Truck is lifted, so I know I would be doing this frequently.) Since I have moved back to Az (3 yrs ago), I have taken my truck in 3 times now, and they “say” they can not align my front end properly for whatever excuse they always give (alignment rack to small, techs capability is not advanced enough, you name it). Regardless the place I would take it in Waco could. In 2 years I have gone through a set of tires that I normally get 50-60k out of. So the store has suggested “new camber bolts” in the UCA frame mounts. Seems like they are just fishing to make some money, since they are losing it from a lifetime alignment. Has anyone ever changed they camber bolts on the UCA so they don’t “drift” during normal driving. I have found a couple replacements on line, but they dont look as if they have any more adjustment than that of the stock camber bolts. If so, what have you gone with? Side note: UCAs, Tie Rods, ball joints, and hub/bearing assemblies and tires have all been changed to aftermarket. Also installed a “beefier” idle/pitman arm brackets to prevent wear on steering. Also adjusting the torsion bars higher, could also prevent the vehicle from proper alignment. However, RCD Lifts claim that is not a requirement for their lift kit. Lift kit installed on truck prior to my purchasing 13 years ago.
Hello GM lovers, I’m back again, with hat in hand, asking for help. Recently, I charged my a/c system back into the proper amount of coolant. Now living in the Desert, “cool” air is considered about 80 degrees on a 110 degree day. So all was fine while running the air. One day the blower motor decided it was done working. After schematic searching, I thought I would try the climate control module. That was not the issue. Then I optested the blower motor itself, and voila, it worked, so that lead me to belive it was the resistor. I changed the resistor, and had to rewire the harness, and blew the fuse. Changed the fuse, blower works. Air compressor kicks on, and I have cold freon going into the condensor. However, I am getting 100 degree air out of the vents. Can anyone help? If I have forgotten something that I may not know of (because I may not know of it) please educate me
Hello GM lovers, I’m back again, with hat in hand, asking for help. Recently, I charged my a/c system back into the proper amount of coolant. Now living in the Desert, “cool” air is considered about 80 degrees on a 110 degree day. So all was fine while running the air. One day the blower motor decided it was done working. After schematic searching, I thought I would try the climate control module. That was not the issue. Then I optested the blower motor itself, and voila, it worked, so that lead me to belive it was the resistor. I changed the resistor, and had to rewire the harness, and blew the fuse. Changed the fuse, blower works. Air compressor kicks on, and I have cold freon going into the condensor. However, I am getting 100 degree air out of the vents. Can anyone help? If I have forgotten something that I may not know of (because I may not know of it) please educate me.
Old guy, i thought that as well, however when it is in reverse the noise that is emmitting from underneath is coming from the transfer case, not the transmission. Its as if it is a solenoid motor that is not engaging.
Hey yall, got a question for you. For the 2003 2500hd’s, Chevy offered 3 different types of transfer cases. Does anyone know how to identify which transfer case is installed in the vehicle one may have. I am moving into my 3RD transfer case (factory installed chain ground a hole through the case years ago, dealer installed a “new” used one, and now this one will not engage reverse). I am vigorously searching for a new case NOW, because I am afraid my vehicle will leave me stranded very soon. (Side note: I get a grinding noise-like the chain is rubbing ONLY during coasting.) So if anyone can help me find the part numbers or the direction to locate said replacement parts, that would be amazing.
Thanks Guys-again. I replaced the cluster a few years ago, with a rebuild from Rockauto. I have noticed there maybe another bulb out in the upper right corner, however, everything else on the cluster works fine. Bruce, you say there is a timer on the cluster, I am curious if it affects RAP in anyway.
so turns out it was the fuel pump. 26 gallons of gas to siphon out, then I was able to drop the tank and replace the pump. I had to test the fuel pressure first. Gauge was reading 32 lbs., every time the engine was bumped. It should be 50-62 lbs. I didn't even notice that classic Chevrolet fuel pump whine. Normally that is a dead giveaway, to a bad pump. However, not bad lifespan for a fuel pump in a truck with 220+k on it.
rojam, my 03 2500hd heated seat (driver-specifically), this last winter started doing what Starman8tdc's were doing. I have not dug into this problem as of yet (maybe because it is summer), I am still trying to tackle the stereo RAP problem first. Baby steps-one at a time. Sorry I could not be of more help. Just know (obviously) you are not alone.
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