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Drives

Found 46 results

  1. I just got my first GMC truck. It's this beautiful 1981 K2500 Sierra Grande. We bought it and picked it up for the buyer. I carefully drove it up on the trailer but my spotter didn't notice my aluminum transfer case didn't clear the trailer by about a half inch. Soon I heard a thud and my heart sunk. I backed up to discover a puddle of transmission fluid. We used a come along and got it loaded and the hole covered. Got it unloaded and pushed halfway into my driveway. I cleaned it up pretty good with brake wash and it looks like only the housing is damaged. The trucks heavy. I need to push it another 50 yards to it's new resting place all semi steep uphill. Can I drive it that 50 yards? What would happen? Please elaborate! Thanks!
  2. Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
  3. Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
  4. Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
  5. OK Here's my sound. Truck is up on jack stands and I'm turning the rear wheels. Camera is under transfer case. Squeaks like this when leaving standing start and eventually stops when going fast enough (20 mph). Fluid in transfer case is fresh. Thoughts?
  6. Anyone know what this noise is? It's very intermittent. Seems to do it most often between 40 and 50 MPH cruising with maybe a slight up hill. Never does it on coast or heavy acceleration. Very hard to tell where it's coming from. 20190521_191545_001.mp4 2014 Sierra Denali 1500 Crewcab, 5'8" bed 6.2 Litter 3.42 axle ratio about 118,000 miles
  7. Hi, have had my 4x4 acting up with no lights on the selector switch and was driving fine in 2wd. Now when starting it up again it was stuck in 4-lo, Dealer had scanned it and said the fault code was coming from the encoder motor wich I will replace tonight. My problem is that I’m told the new motor comes in nuetral, can someone help guide me as how to get the t-case into neutral position???
  8. I hope I’m not stirring a hornets nest here... I know there are a ton of Amsoil fans here, personally I use Mobil 1 for oil changes... haven’t made the time to change my transfer case and differentials on my 16 4wd... called a shop and quoted me $250 for all 3...and they use BG products... 1) is that a reasonable deal 2) is BG any good? (I’ve done some research, but can’t teally tell if they are sponsored or independent results... thanks in in advance!
  9. Hi, I recently pulled my t-case and replaced the housing on it due to the pump rub issue. After re-installing everything was fine for about 1 mile then the abs light came on and I got "service brakes " message and my speedo quit working, which also causes my trans to shift hard and erradictly . Long story short.... I've checked all the fuses , replaced the speed senor in the t-case (as far as I know this is the only one the truck has , it's a base work truck trim) and the wiring harness to the t -case and speed sensor, and no dice. The only codes that it is showing on the reader at the local Oreilly's is mass airflow and knock sensor. 4x4 still engages fine, the motor in the front axle works too. Btw, It's a 2003 2500hd 4x4 6.0 Silverado base work truck. If anyone has any info on this matter that could help I would sure appreciate it , thanks. Quote Edit
  10. Hi, I recently pulled my t-case and replace
  11. hello all, I am sure this issue has been beat to death multiple times, but I cant find the answer. I have a 2005 Silverado 1500 z71, I have had this issue for about 2 years now. the issue being that no matter what part I replace my 4wd wont reliably work. here is a list of what parts have been replaced. Drivers side wheel hub- twice Passenger Side wheel hub- three times Diff. actuator- twice 4 button switch on dash- once TCCM- once Transfer case motor- once So what is happening is, the dash will read service 4wd, i have taken it in to a shop where they have been replacing the parts, and i have come to the conclusion they are just throwing parts at it to find a fix. Every time they would replace a part it will work about 2-3 days but then give me the same service 4wd message. if i push one of the 3 4wd buttons on the switch the light will blink for a while then stop and it seems like it doesn't shift into 4wd. But i have crawled under the truck while someone else selects a 4wd button, I can hear and feel the transfer case changing into to 4wd mode. but the front diff actuator does not engage. I have checked and cleaned the ground wire under the drivers door twice but that doesn't seem to help. I am done throwing money at the shop to fix it, so this is my last resort. any help or ideas is greatly appreciated, Thank you,
  12. I just replaced the Transfer case encoder motor because it threw a code and my 4wd didnt work at all. Now only 4wd auto works and when i put it in 4hi it is like 2wd. When i select 4wd Low i can feel it in low gear but again it is like its in 2wd. Any suggestions? Thanks
  13. Hello all. New to the forum and I appreciate any help. So I’m climbing a 10% grade, well maintained dirt road that’s covered in packed snow the other day and suddenly I get the warning ding and a message that says 4 wheel drive off. Rear end breaks loose, traction control stops the climb, and I’m stuck. Truck off and on a couple times, will start shift into 4 wheel drive then does the same thing. Had to chain up to get out. Owners manual says this will happen when the 4 wheel drive system is overheating. I had used it for about 2 minutes and nothing was more than warm to the touch. Can’t find anything online about it. I have no idea where to go from here without going to the dealership and spending all that cash! Any help is much appreciated. 2014 Sierra 1500 Crew, 4.3L 6, 98k.
  14. Hello all. New to the forum and I appreciate any help. So I’m climbing a 10% grade, well maintained dirt road that’s covered in packed snow the other day and suddenly I get the warning ding and a message that says 4 wheel drive off. Rear end breaks loose, traction control stops the climb, and I’m stuck. Truck off and on a couple times, will start shift into 4 wheel drive then does the same thing. Had to chain up to get out. Owners manual says this will happen when the 4 wheel drive system is overheating. I had used it for about 2 minutes and nothing was more than warm to the touch. Can’t find anything online about it. I have no idea where to go from here without going to the dealership and spending all that cash! Any help is much appreciated. 2014 Sierra 1500 Crew, 4.3L 6, 98k.
  15. Hello, This is a 1999 Chevy Silverado 5.3l, 4wd push button style, 4L60E transmission, 153k. I have a green fluid leak (T-case fluid) coming from the front axel input shaft seal, drivers side. It obviously gets thrown around all over surrounding components when driven in current condition. The leak will accumulate about 2 or 3 drips on the ground overnight. It's been going on for a good while judging by the amount of fluid caked on everything. I've only driven approximately 50 miles since i noticed issue, all in 2wd. My questions are whether or not i risk significant damage to the case if ONLY driven in 2wd while also adding fluid as needed? Also, is there an "inner" seal in the transfer case that will be exposed when drive shaft is removed from t-case? If so, what is the responsibility of "inner" seal and is there a reason it should also be replaced simultaneously? When i'm in that deep i'd rather do whatever is necessary and logical. Thanks for any help with stated questions and I also love to hear any related advice or experience! Taking it to a shop is not an option as I have little money and major trust issues. Trust issues stemming from several bad experiences in the past and most recently, pertaining to this vehicle. I bought this truck for $6,500, everything is in VERY good shape, recently had a 90k motor installed @ 150k (i purchased it at 152.5k) as a private party transaction from the auto shop owner who installed the second motor. Turns out recently installed engine either has a cracked head or head gasket as the black light test reveals coolant coming from exhaust among other confirmations... AAAGGGHH. That's a completely different story that's being dealt with but figured i'd share my reasons for NOT TAKING IT TO ANYONE mentality. Auto salesmen/mechanics can be total sleezeballs. From now on it's my way or the highway, to my own dismay haha.
  16. 1998 suburban 1500 4x4 5.7 4l60e np246 push button 4x4 2/4hi/4lo/auto I need some help here. Suddenly my 4x4 quit working on my truck, details above. I have diagnosed everything I can. There are no codes or lights. The issue is no power to the front wheels while in any of the 4x4 positions. The front axle actuator is working, checked with a new one. The encoder motor is new, just installed oem motor. When the truck is on stands the front wheels roll in 4x4 but on the ground they have no torque. I put the front on the ground and jacked up the rear axle, the rear tires spin in drive, the fronts have no pull what so ever. With the truck in the air, 4x4 hi engaged, engine off, truck in neutral, I can roll the front drive shaft by hand and see movement in the rear shaft. Again, when it's in the air everything works, only on the ground it acts like it's still in 2wd. Does the 246 have slipping issues? Is that even possible? I've never had one apart but if there's discs to engage them possibly they are worn? My next step is a xfer case but I don't want to throw any more money away. I should mention I have this problem in auto mode too. Thanks
  17. Hello, This is a 1999 Chevy Silverado 5.3l, 4wd push button style, 4L60E transmission, 153k. I have a green fluid leak (T-case fluid) coming from the front axel input shaft seal, drivers side. It obviously gets thrown around all over surrounding components when driven in current condition. The leak will accumulate about 2 or 3 drips on the ground overnight. It's been going on for a good while judging by the amount of fluid caked on everything. I've only driven approximately 50 miles since i noticed issue, all in 2wd. My questions are whether or not i risk significant damage to the case if ONLY driven in 2wd while also adding fluid as needed? Also, is there an "inner" seal in the transfer case that will be exposed when drive shaft is removed from t-case? If so, what is the responsibility of "inner" seal and is there a reason it should also be replaced simultaneously? When i'm in that deep i'd rather do whatever is necessary and logical. Thanks for any help with stated questions and I also love to hear any related advice or experience! Taking it to a shop is not an option as I have little money and major trust issues. Trust issues stemming from several bad experiences in the past and most recently, pertaining to this vehicle. I bought this truck for $6,500, everything is in VERY good shape, recently had a 90k motor installed @ 150k (i purchased it at 152.5k) as a private party transaction from the auto shop owner who installed the second motor. Turns out recently installed engine either has a cracked head or head gasket as the black light test reveals coolant coming from exhaust among other confirmations... AAAGGGHH. That's a completely different story that's being dealt with but figured i'd share my reasons for NOT TAKING IT TO ANYONE mentality. Auto salesmen/mechanics can be total sleezeballs. From now on it's my way or the highway, to my own dismay haha.
  18. I need help. I am on transfer case replacement number 6. I have a 2004 gmc Sierra k2500 HD, 6.0 gas. I have used multiple different remanufactured transfer cases from different companies etc. I have even had different mechanics look at it. Most I have for is 12k out of a replacement. I have had driveline checked and balanced, new u joint, new shift module. I have had different driving conditions on all cases such as pavement, towing on pavement, dirt roads, etc. I need help. I can't afford to sell cause it is paid off. Any suggestions????
  19. I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban that has been frustrating me with a "Service 4WD" and a "stability control system disabled". I've been troubleshooting it for a while and I have been doing the various things that I find on the interwebs. Some work for a while and some do nothing. I removed and cleaned some grounding switches under the driver's door. - Nothing changed. I replaced the selector switch next to the steering wheel. - This seemed to work, but then the errors came back. At this point, the drive system started randomly shifted between 2WD and 4H or 4L. I assumed this meant that the encoder motor has gone bad. I purchased and installed a new one and now I only get a red light on the selector switch. I'm not sure if something else is wrong or if I have a bad replacement encoder motor. I have reached out to the online parts store to see what they say and don't have an answer from them yet. I scrolled the forums and went cross-eyed before finding a thread that talks about this. Anyone out there that maybe has gone through the same thing and come out on the other side? Thanks!
  20. Hey yall, got a question for you. For the 2003 2500hd’s, Chevy offered 3 different types of transfer cases. Does anyone know how to identify which transfer case is installed in the vehicle one may have. I am moving into my 3RD transfer case (factory installed chain ground a hole through the case years ago, dealer installed a “new” used one, and now this one will not engage reverse). I am vigorously searching for a new case NOW, because I am afraid my vehicle will leave me stranded very soon. (Side note: I get a grinding noise-like the chain is rubbing ONLY during coasting.) So if anyone can help me find the part numbers or the direction to locate said replacement parts, that would be amazing.
  21. Hi community, I have a 2014 Sierra 2500 4x4 with the 6.0 Gas. I've read and watched some videos about known issues with older GM transfer cases have pump knock that leads to a hole in the case. Is this an issue with 2014 2500s? Thanks for insights. Edit: I should note, have not had an issue with my transfer case at this point. Just want to know because I'm going to be taking apart the drivetran to upgrade the diffs and might as well bullet proof the transfer case if I'm doing the diff work. I've done some more digging and found that GM switched to a new transfer case 07/08, MP1226XHD. My rig has a corresponding RPO code of NQF. Does this transfer case have the issue the older NP cases have? Not alot out there about them.
  22. Help, I have a 04 GMC Sierra, 4x4, 6.0 gas and I need some help. I will be on transfer case number 5 and cannot figure out why? Originally the first one went out. I got the first one and it needed to be replaced due to the rear seal for the rear driveline was installed wrong. Got the second one and the shift motor went bad and then they sent me a new shift motor and then it started vibrating when on the highway. Went with a different company/manufacture and the same thing has happen. I have had it start vibrating, leaking, etc. I am now looking at TK#5. I have had new U-joints replaced on both ends and had drive line balanced. Any help on where to go from here before I put in number 5 would be greatly appreciated?? What would cause this? Front end seems to disengage when it is jacked in the air, gas mileage has never changed? Help!
  23. I am wanting to start changing the fluids in my truck since its so much more expensive for the dealership to do it. What fluids do y'all recommend for oil, transfer case, transmission, etc.?
  24. I changed my front differential and transfer case fluid the other day and I was surprised at how many shavings that were in there. I did it at 3K in order to put my favorite fluids in there. I used Liqui Moly Full Synthetic 75W-90 in the front and Top Tec 1800 (Dexron-VI equivalent) in the transfer case. Most people wouldn't really be doing this as early as I am, but I was bored and my buddy had the differential in his Silvy with 15k on it lock up because the factory didn't fill it enough! So anyway, to my surprise, there were quite a few filings on there, much more than I would expect with a truck with 3k on it. Nothing big on there (no chunks), but the magnet was definitely full on the transfer case. The front differential (which doesn't get exercised much) had little on it. I'll be doing the rear differential when the extra fluid shows up since I underestimated! Edit: I forgot to mention, I also did this because I bought it new and wanted to get any break-in shavings and manufacturing oils out of there.
  25. What the heck is this on the rear transfer case half and why would it be leaking? Obviously corroded, but why does it go all the way through? Replacement case halves do not show any holes there. Ideas for fix?
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