Smitty27

Looked thru the full repair manual topics (PDF version someone shared here) and looked at the fastener torque posts, but don't see any mention of the fuel tank strap bolt torque recommendation. I typically go arm tight and snug w loctite on everything but they've got U-nuts on the other side which could be prone to tweaking since the nut just floats inside the U-clip. I'll loctite the threads and snug them for now but If anyone knows the correct torque I'll go back and check. Thanks

That's how I Iearnt it too, and found out a hell of a lot more about all the generations. I'm the last to the party all the time so I just assumed everybody knew it.

Huh? So you're a mind reader and know what others "assume"? You sound stable. I have no idea what you do or don't know and couldn't care less. If you dont know what NNBS means, obviously it wasnt intended for you. By your logic, my job is to explain every word I use in my posts so as not to "assume" you're not a moron? What I DO "assume" is that if you dont know something I write you'll either ask or look it up.

Posted over there ages ago seems like, good memory. I recall your name. Wrapping the build up actually. Swapped the 4L60 for a built 65, custom driveshaft, beefier springs/shocks for towing, etc. she's just about done finally. One of a kind.

Actually it does. Looked further in to it and see the "FSCM" (fuel sys control module) fuse so I pulled that and it finally stopped the damn fuel flow. Question remains for anyone who knows - why is the fuel pump running with no fuse or relay? Hate to see the circuit protection bypassed.

Also, turn key on and hear the pump run so it's clearly not just residual fuel in lines. Have seen older discussions of possible shorts in or faulty fuel modules up near spare tire causing this, do all who know concur with that as the main reason? Any other experiences with this problem? Trying to relieve fuel pressure so as to pull the fuel rail schrader valve and empty tank via the pump but so far can't get the damn pump to stop pumping. thx

Check out the photo. That upper line flare isnt seating even without the clip there.

Question is, are those fittings diff sizes? Is it poss the builder put the upper in the lower?

The upper line won't push into the fitting - as if the fitting inner dia is too small. The fitting must be the wrong size or ? The line end looks fine.

Just had the 4 speed in my 07 1500 upgraded to approx 65 innards, and just finished re-install. However, cant get the upper line to press in to the trans fitting. Question- are these fittings the same inner diameter, etc? The lower line pops in almost too east it seems so thinking maybe if those are different to prevent installing the lines incorrectly, the builder may have reinstalled those reversed.

SeaDonk.....what do you recommend on this? My Sierra is doing the exact same thing. Disassemble everything and put back together? Not sure I see a resolution in the thread. Thanks.

Quick question that I searched found no discussion.... I'm cleaning and flushing all systems on my '07 NBS Sierra including the front driveline and in doing so I removed the plastic actuator unit from the the differential (see photo). It appeared to have a white dope on the threads similar in consistency and color to home plumbing pipe thread paste. After cleaning and before re-installing what should I apply on those threads? Anyone have any clue what the OEM call-out is on that item? I'm a maintenance mechanic by trade so I understand basic sealing processes but I'm curious as to what if anything others have used in this area and what GM does at the factory - can find nothing online. Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the reply txab. After hours wasted searching, I couldn't find a video based on year range and issue but I'm sure they're out there. Ive found vids on just about everything else and I've got the engine bay stripped down to almost nothing sans long block. Doing a 153k mile overhaul and adding some hp and appearance mods finally (eveling kit, shorty headers, intake, injectors, lite cam, etc). Can you send a link of someone pulling that shaft if its handy? Do you know if the boot slides off from the transfer case side - I'm not seeing a clamp there - rather than cutting the clamp on the other side? Appreciate the time. Thanks again.

Trying to pull the front driveshaft on my '07 Sierra 1500 (new style). Front of shaft is free (out of front diff) but at the back end there is a pressed u-joint (no bolts) with a short rubber boot clamped over the spindle end and it is not sliding out of the transfer case as easily as other driveshafts I've pulled in the past. Dont want to force it if the boot is what's holding it back. Do not see any videos or explanatary photos online showing how the DS removes from the transfer case. Anyone help? See photo. Much thanks...