tigers2007

There is an eBay seller that sells both knock sensors and harness for cheap. One word of caution though, eBay and Amazon are breeding grounds for counterfeit parts that look exactly alike. I stick with RockAuto or my local AutoValue store.

This is wild. I had some serious broken bolts and a cracked manifold and mine ran fine; just extremely loud. Only issue I had was that pulling the old wires off of the plugs resulted in snapped plug ends.

If you have no leaks, consider using high-mileage oil. I switched to Supertech Synthetic High Mileage 5W-30 and my “missing oil” problem went away with my ‘02 2500HD.

Bed dimensions are exactly the same. In fact, the internal sheet metal is exactly the same. The exterior bedside panels are different though with the difference being the contour around the wheel well (Chevy more square and GMC more rounded) and the tail light assembly cutouts are difference. Rest is the same such as the top rail spacing for the cap.

What is your actual question or are you just venting?

This is great news and thank you for letting us know about your outcome.

Did you update the software? Either find someone with a Tech2 and laptop (or just an MDI and a laptop) or take it to the dealer.

Have you actually done this for these HD trucks? I’m not sure if I need to spend the $15 in new bushings or $300 for two new entire LCA assemblies.

Remember that your GMT800 Suburban 2500 has two fuel tanks and two senders. Do you have access to a Tech 2?

It’s either the door switch built into the latch assembly or **most likely** the door wiring harness. It takes about 45 min to replace. Expect a lead time of 3-weeks to get the harness directly from GM. It is about $90. I just replaced both driver door harness assemblies in my ‘09 Silverado AND Tahoe and BOTH vehicles gremlins went away. I was having issues with intermittent RAP, dome light, power mirror control, power window not going up blah blah.

This might be the proper way to go. I did the software disable via HP Tuners and I’m still burning through oil. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was going to go the other direction with my ‘08 Suburban 2500. I acquired a 3.73 front diff (same part for 1988-2010!) for $150 and was going to do the rear end swap myself. I ended up selling it before I got around to the project. So, maybe you can search for a 4.10 front differential (car-part.com) and then a 4.10 kit for the rear. It’s not rocket science. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well if the TPS is bad, rapidly moving the butterfly could easily cause a fault as the electric stepper motor position is not in alignment with what the TPS is reading thus causing a fault - reduced engine power for safety. Basically to prevent an MCAS issue lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow I didn’t think that GM used the electronic TB in MY2002. Funny as my Tech 2 asks me if it has the electric throttle for my 2002 6.0 2500HD. Your part numbers from RockAuto are: 17113659 for the entire assembly $250ish (with RPO NW7) 17123852 for the sensor without RPO NW7 $32 (TH149 at big box stores) 17114566 for the sensor with NW7 $53 (TH298 at the big box stores) That has got to be a first generation LS electronic throttle as it looks huge. I’d started with the sensors. Maybe even from your local big box store so you can return it easy if it doesn’t fix the problem. If you do order from Rock don’t forget to use a 5% off coupon code. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m referring to the actual sensor on the throttle body. What year is your truck? GM has had a lot of issues that go back from 2003 to 2012. Some people spend the $110-170 for a new entire throttle body assembly. The sensor kit is about $28. Takes about 15 min to replace. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk