tigers2007

This might be the proper way to go. I did the software disable via HP Tuners and I’m still burning through oil. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was going to go the other direction with my ‘08 Suburban 2500. I acquired a 3.73 front diff (same part for 1988-2010!) for $150 and was going to do the rear end swap myself. I ended up selling it before I got around to the project. So, maybe you can search for a 4.10 front differential (car-part.com) and then a 4.10 kit for the rear. It’s not rocket science. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well if the TPS is bad, rapidly moving the butterfly could easily cause a fault as the electric stepper motor position is not in alignment with what the TPS is reading thus causing a fault - reduced engine power for safety. Basically to prevent an MCAS issue lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow I didn’t think that GM used the electronic TB in MY2002. Funny as my Tech 2 asks me if it has the electric throttle for my 2002 6.0 2500HD. Your part numbers from RockAuto are: 17113659 for the entire assembly $250ish (with RPO NW7) 17123852 for the sensor without RPO NW7 $32 (TH149 at big box stores) 17114566 for the sensor with NW7 $53 (TH298 at the big box stores) That has got to be a first generation LS electronic throttle as it looks huge. I’d started with the sensors. Maybe even from your local big box store so you can return it easy if it doesn’t fix the problem. If you do order from Rock don’t forget to use a 5% off coupon code. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m referring to the actual sensor on the throttle body. What year is your truck? GM has had a lot of issues that go back from 2003 to 2012. Some people spend the $110-170 for a new entire throttle body assembly. The sensor kit is about $28. Takes about 15 min to replace. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This part is in stock at your local big box auto parts store and also your local dealer. What year is the OP’s truck? It may be covered under recall; my ‘09 Tahoe was covered under GM recall last January. I ended up doing it all by myself as my dealer had a two week backlog and Amazon delivered the part in 20 hours. The software update is easy if you have a Windows 7/10 laptop, Tripp Lite USB to Serial dongle, and a Tech 2 (clones work too). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Personally I’d hit it quick with a torch; I mean very quickly and then work it back and forth with an impact on low. You don’t want to snap it off. I’ve been there done that. What a hot mess you have on your hands. I’ll be doing the same job this Spring and replacing with Nickle-Copper lines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yuck that is a HELL of a job. There are so many for sale out there already converted at the factory when new. I dumped my clean ‘08 ext cab 4x4 for $15k with a new Allison 1000 and almost new Western V-plow. I originally paid $7.5k for the truck and used it for a few years. Anyways, replacing the fuel system is actually very simple. I did it with my Duramax for about $80 with Parker high-temp hoses. Note that there is a diesel fuel cooler on the bottom near the tank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Missing information here. Are you getting any DIC messages “Low Engine Power”? Etc. The 2003 was the first year of the electronic throttle body and is prone to issues. Check the notorious ground bolts too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Were the 99-02’s prewired from the factory for power & heated mirrors? Edit: it appears that they are all prewired for heated mirrors but NOT for power mirrors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If anything I’d still get the cheapest seat kit and just stick the elements in “while you’re in there”. The element pigtails hang out the back and it’ll be so So much easier to finish the job later. I’d still pull the seat out later but at least you won’t have to disassemble it and pull the skins back. Remember, to install the seat back element, sandwich it between two pieces of firm cardboard (virgin, not creased yet) and slid the element in with ease. When you want to finish the job I’d pull the seat again (only takes 2 minutes) and run the wire harness in the bottom channel under the plastic and then have the cable exit the cut slot in the carpet directly under the seat for the ABS module wiring. These tips are for a GMT-800. A GMT-900 is even easier but you need to pull all the seat skins off to install the element (which is not hard). I put the switch in my GMT-800 drivers dash where the fog light goes and it looks clean. I carefully took the switch element out and used a Unibit to drill a hole out on both sides so the wiring harness connector could pass through into the dash. Single Seat heater kit $21: WATERCARBON Premium Heated Seat Kit - Universal, OEM Equipment - Dual Settings, Five Year Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKFFR6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_z3wQRWfrDgEKJ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just installed this a few days ago: $44 shipped to your door https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273338882599 You must have patience when installing the cover back on so you don’t break the plastic channel clip. Watch the YouTube video. I also added a Chinese no-name $30 seat heating kit from Amazon.com too. Note, to install the seat back element without removing the cover, just sandwich the heating element between two pieces of cardboard and it will slide in just fine. No need to peel the tape it’ll be snug in there just fine. If he doesn’t have heated seats I’d at least add the elements now while you have it out. Total time spent on swapping the bottom seat foam, using a new bottom leather cover, and installing heating elements and wiring was 90 minutes. I had to extend the wiring harness about 12” too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I saw a photo of a 2014+ bed on a 07-13 GMT900. Had anyone seen a 2014+ box on a 99-06?? Finding a clean 8’ box is very difficult and vendors want $1500-3000 for them. I can get 2014+ boxes new for $800+ FOB. Crappiest part is how I found a 8’ box from AZ in excellent condition AND the same paint color for $900 and I didn’t budge not realizing how bad the structure is on my existing bed. If I’m going to fork over thousands I might as well search for a used aluminum skirted bed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it is already rusted then you need to grind the hell out of it until you see no more rust and fill it with fibreglass filler. To do it right you would replace the bottom metal or the whole door. I’ve hack and packed friends of mines to get the job done and to match their $$$ budget. The Raptor product is excellent and it is color matched too. Check out a couple trucks I did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is common with many vehicles from all makes. Make sure the drain holes are all clean. In the spring when you know it’ll be dry out for a few days, take a garden hose and flush out those holes. You’ll be surprised what you’ll see flow out. Keep flushing them until clean water runs out. Then take pressurized air and carefully blow the water out without blowing the paint off. Drive it around like normal for a couple of dry days. Then squirt in some CRC Marine Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor so that it leaks out of the drain holes. Put cardboard under the doors so it catches the drippings. It’ll stink for a few days and then the odor will disappear. Doing this annually and BEFORE the rust starts will ensure you won’t have any issues. The Canadians have been doing this for decades and their cars really don’t rust out like ours. It’s common to see an early 90’s sedan in showroom condition driving around in the winter time over there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk