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About rszimm

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  1. Burn them out. HMMM That's interesting.
  2. First, check your transmission fluid level. However, this is pretty classic "rebuild my transmission" symptom. It could also be something simple like a control valve, but when those fail in something modern like a '13 you usually get a check-engine code thrown. I'd take it to a repair shop that specializes in transmissions and have them take a look.
  3. My 2001 2500HD (2WD) is getting a complete overhaul on the front suspension. I'm replacing the pitman arm, the idler arm, the upper control arm, tie rod ends, the stabilizer link, shocks and lower ball joint. So far all of that is complete. I also bought the lower control arm bushings. Given that the steering knuckle is out, I can get the lower control arms out in about 10 minutes (2 bolts and loosen the torsion bar and I'm done). However, I've not seen any youtube videos or anything on replacing these bushings. They seem to be in good shape, but I'm a bit nervous about tearing into them and potentially damaging the control arm or otherwise opening up a can of worms on something that doesn't seem broken (yet). On the other hand, I've got the thing apart, I have the replacement parts, and I'd like to only align this thing once. What do you guys think? Is getting these rubber f-ers out a doable job. (note: I don't have a hydraulic press.. I was able to get the lower ball joints out with a big hammer and a lot of MAP gas. I still have the ball joint install tool if that'll help with the bushings) EDIT: the truck has 190k miles on it. (if that matters). All Arizona miles, so not much rust, but DAMN it was hard getting that knuckle off, the ball joint off, and the pitman arm off)
  4. Ended up getting the Moog one off Amazon. Should arrive Saturday. Should be able to easily get back up and running before work on Tuesday. Thanks for for the help guys.
  5. By the way, RockAuto's customer support kinda let me down on this one. Their only options for defective parts are "send me a new one in 2 business days" or "issue me a credit". Generally that's fine, but in this situation I'm about 90% sure that the new part from the same manufacturer and same batch is going to have the same machining error. So I tried calling, but only got a voicemail and no call back. So then I emailed told them I'd like to pay the difference to exchange up to an AC Delco part, and get the free 2 business day shipping. "We don't do that" was the response. "You can issue a credit and purchase the new one, then choose expedited shipping" (So I'm paying an extra $30 to get it here in 2 business days to get a part that should have been right in the first place). Oh well, I've been working with them for over 15 years and this is the first bad experience.
  6. Because my truck is torn apart and my only option is to buy locally or do without a truck for the 3-4 days it'll take RockAuto to get the part here.
  7. Shucks. I guess this is an example of "you get what you pay for". SKP version was $8 at Rockauto. Now my truck is torn apart and I'm going to have to buy the Delco one from the dealer for likely around $100. UGH!
  8. I've got my pitman arm off. I'm about to put the new one on, but it appears that the arrangement of the "grooves" is different than the one I pulled off. it almost looks like a mirror image. Does this matter? I've included a picture here. Just to make it easier to see I've put a little red paint dot where the grooves are. The clean one is the new one. Image of pitman arms side by side
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