I was thinking Tps too but don't think that's it Will sit and idle just fine. It doesn't have erratic shifts, it just doesn't want to. Manually shift from 1 to 2 it does fine but rough. Shift to D or overdrive it won't go to third unless I hamner it off and on. Sometimes if I shift it to D manually it kicks back down to 1st. Not all the time. When I move it from park to D or R it lunges at a standstill.
GM has had an issue with leaky oil cooler lines forever. I don't understand why they haven't figured out how to make a line that won't leak. Every truck I have ever owned has had them including my 14. Not bad enough yet to replace but it's coming.
I just recently replaced all my injectors and a few days later I noticed a rough idle at idle. Not bad enough to set a code or light but noticable and shaky. Inside the truck no noise. Outside I hear a puffing noise. I removed the intake and sure enough one leaking injector. Carbon build up with the fuel rail stain. I'm not sure what I did wrong on the install. No lube added to the seals, vacuumed each port. The other 7 fine. The only thing I can think of is that port wasn't clean enough and I tore the seals. Should I run a pipe cleaner down each port on that bank this time? Not sure how to clean these all out. I hate getting unnecessary dirt down into the cylinders. And yes, I'm replacing all four injector seals on that bank.
My truck took a crap tonight. I will say I have had an issue with it shifting hard from 1st to 2nd but if I take it easy it hasn't been bad but the other gears no issue. Tonight after work I drove to Walmart. Acting normal the whole way. Go inside grab a few things and when I leave, I noticed it kind of slams into drive with the brake applied. Then it would not shift into 2nd unless I get on it mess with the throttle, on and off and it finally shifts hard into 2nd. Same thing going to 3rd. Stop and go traffic and it downshifts fine but everytime I have to upshift I have to rev it and mess with the throttle before it finally shifts again. I never could get it in 4th. If I manually shift it from 1st to 2nd it goes smooth but it won't go into 3rd or OD manually. Fluid is good. Nice and red and at the correct level. Would a bad TPS do this? Truck seems to run fine. No lights on the dash either. Not sure if it's toast or electrical.
One on the left is the one replaced at 60K. You can tell because of blue paint. Intake side. One on the right I think is now broke which is exhaust #3, along with intake cylinder #5.
Just wanted to share what I've found. After taking the broken valve spring out I was looking over the others. I think I know why this is happening. The springs sit low in the head so there is a machined area around it like a pocket to provide space for the springs. Looking down the springs I noticed most of them have a gap between the spring and head. I found one tonight that is super close and looks like it could make contact. Eventually I see it rubbing through the spring. No shavings, marks on the spring I can see at this point. I think as the spring gets weaker or it wasn't truly round, or placed in wrong from the factory. I think it could rub up on the head surface at some point and break. I'm not 100% sure that is what is going on but it doesn't look right.
Ok, so here is the story. Sorry in advance for the long post. At about 60K was on a road trip I was going about 75 took it off cruise control and truck skipped and then flashing light and TC light on. Started running rough and pulled over to nearest gas station. No matter what I did the truck would barely start and barely idle, ticking and missing like crazy. Under warranty, get it towed and 3 days later because it happened on a Saturday broken valve spring and on my way. Around 30K later I'm driving and all of sudden light flashing and TC again. No stumble or warning besides lights. It seemed smooth at higher speed. I get it home and check all the wires. So, because it happened before pull the covers. Everything looks ok running. No bad lifters and no noise. Had the coils plugged in so couldn't really get a detailed look at everything. I change the plugs and wires still the same. Buddy brings me a cheap code reader and get the P0300 code random missfire. That is all that would come up. Like I couldn't tell that already. lol. After a few attempts with reader I finally get a P03005 code. Cylinder 5. I swap coil packs and same code. Now this code only came up twice and would go away no other code, so I cross out coil. What's left? Injectors right. I should have gotten a better code reader because I replace all 8 injectors. After this, now I start getting all intake codes from the MAF, TPS, and MAP and again Cylinder 5. So, now I'm like what is the last step? Has to be a valve. Sure enough, pull the valve cover really get down and look. Broken intake spring. At first I was thinking just replacing one but I think I'm doing them all. I don't trust this truck anymore. I've driven nothing but GM my whole life but this one has put a sour taste in my mouth.
I got them off with multiple pry bars. It was a pain. They were in there pretty good. Would have been way easier with the tool. I was worried I was going to bend a rail. I'm glad I replaced all eight. All is good now.
The repair instructions call for it. Part number EN-49248. It actually calls for two sets of them. There are aftemarket types from OTC but that one is $150. I can tell you I have all 8 bolts out and those injectors are in there pretty good. I don't want to damage anything.
I'm replacing all 8 of my intectors on my 6.2l. Can't seem to get the fuel rails and injectors out. I really don't want to buy that expensive puller if I'm probably going to use it once. Has anyone done this without it?
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 124 Members, 1 Anonymous, 2,590 Guests (See full list)
- CAE AT4
- Jacob Moody
- Jared Hoefsmit
- Ithan Henry
- Joshua Gully
- Nanotech Environmental
- Sierra 3.0
- Grey Jay
- Dustin Parker
- Kole Zimmer
- Christopher Liotta
- z71 BLaCkMaMba
- Delta D
- Alan Juden
- Ray Capobianco
- Green Tools Matter