I'd give them the truck back, this has scam written all over it.... and would certainly keep this in mind when service is due/needed. If they did mess up on the paperwork it's already signed and done... you should be able to do the math and see what is actually owed. If you signed off on what they're asking for they have legal recourse but if the math is in your favor tell them to pound sand and either give you the information for tags or take the truck back and head to one of the thousands of other dealers out there with plenty of inventory.
For argument’s sake I would consider a no non-sense high volume dealer like Laura Buick GMC near St Louis, their pricing is competitive and they have infrastructure in place to pick you up at the airport. Considering the size of the investment in my option my time is worth a good bit of money... they have a proven successful track record.
I never noticed any drivability differences but last summer I averaged 14.7mpg with less than 10k miles and this summer I’ve averaged 18.2mpg with 17k and counting. Not sure what all nanny features/cushions may be built into break in but my commute and driving style hasn’t changed in any way and that is almost a 24% improvement.
We have almost 96k on my wife’s 2016 Suburban... happy to help raise the average and enjoy our many hours on the road in comfort.
I’ve seen as low as -39F since I’ve had my 2017 Silverado... a lot better than the -73F my 2011 suffered through. I don’t mess with plugging anything in until below 0F, I have a 4 way plug with trans pan/oil pan/battery/block heater hooked up. I take it easy until trans temps get above 100F and let it warm up 10-15 minutes before I take off. As long as the battery is in good shape you should be fine, that’s my biggest concern with newer vehicles... there’s a lot of electrical loads now vs my back up beater 95model truck.
I run 275/60R20 BFG All Terrains with no rubbing anywhere... the truck should have come this way from GM. I lost right at 2 mpgs with the added weight going from the 265/65R18 Goodyears but I don't regret it a bit.
I can say the truck and my wife's burb do great in the conditions... I trust them both to keep us in one piece. Make sure you get some good winter rated tires and be willing to take it easy. Some great advice in this thread, thanks for bringing it up... I may have to make some piece of mind upgrades before next winter!
I live in remote Alaska and I am basically on my own if anything bad happens. Here is a breakdown of what I have, I keep it in a duffel that comes inside so it doesn't freeze or get stolen... My wife and I affectionately call it the OS (oh s%*#) bag. Coldest day this winter.. the worst I've dealt with is -73 F in 2011. Typical road conditions for 7-8 months a year. Odds and ends: Flares, jumper cables, 2 rolls of blue shop towels, 4x 1L water bottles, clif bars, goldfish, grill lighter, matches, heavy duty first aid kit (MyMedic brand), extra thermal socks, and 2 -20 sleeping bags. Recovery gear: 2 recovery straps and a collapsible shovel. Floor mats/liners are a great back up traction device in slick snow. I stop and help anyone I can... I have a wife and two kids and hopefully if it's ever needed I have karma on my side. This past winter I successfully extracted 3 drivers on the highway, all of them were driving too fast for conditions. More than having the right gear I recommend slowing down... Especially in newer vehicles it's hard to "feel" your speed, the slower you're going the closer you are to the road (easier to pull you back up) and the lighter the hit.
$110 for 2 years on anything 10 years old or less in AK. Then it's $125 for permanent tags... I love that my 2006 Sierra will always be valid! I moved from Tennessee where you pay sales tax up front +/-9% when you purchase (even with a private sale) but then it's around $50 a year... Good for normal people unlike me who buys and sells frequently.
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