I can say the truck and my wife's burb do great in the conditions... I trust them both to keep us in one piece. Make sure you get some good winter rated tires and be willing to take it easy. Some great advice in this thread, thanks for bringing it up... I may have to make some piece of mind upgrades before next winter!
I live in remote Alaska and I am basically on my own if anything bad happens. Here is a breakdown of what I have, I keep it in a duffel that comes inside so it doesn't freeze or get stolen... My wife and I affectionately call it the OS (oh s%*#) bag. Coldest day this winter.. the worst I've dealt with is -73 F in 2011. Typical road conditions for 7-8 months a year. Odds and ends: Flares, jumper cables, 2 rolls of blue shop towels, 4x 1L water bottles, clif bars, goldfish, grill lighter, matches, heavy duty first aid kit (MyMedic brand), extra thermal socks, and 2 -20 sleeping bags. Recovery gear: 2 recovery straps and a collapsible shovel. Floor mats/liners are a great back up traction device in slick snow. I stop and help anyone I can... I have a wife and two kids and hopefully if it's ever needed I have karma on my side. This past winter I successfully extracted 3 drivers on the highway, all of them were driving too fast for conditions. More than having the right gear I recommend slowing down... Especially in newer vehicles it's hard to "feel" your speed, the slower you're going the closer you are to the road (easier to pull you back up) and the lighter the hit.
$110 for 2 years on anything 10 years old or less in AK. Then it's $125 for permanent tags... I love that my 2006 Sierra will always be valid! I moved from Tennessee where you pay sales tax up front +/-9% when you purchase (even with a private sale) but then it's around $50 a year... Good for normal people unlike me who buys and sells frequently.
5k miles with Mobil 1 0W20. Likely overkill, there's typically 20-30% left but it's an easy interval to remember... helps me rotate the tires on schedule and it's cheap insurance.
So I saw a pic of the 2019 Silverado 5.3 and noticed there's a fill tube... does anyone know a part number for one to put on my 17 Silverado and 16 Suburban. I do my own oil changes and holding the funnel at an angle is a pain, I can't believe there's not a tube to get it level. 2019 Picture
I think the most important thing is an overnight test drive to make sure you don't feel any of the known issues. I know sometimes the issues show up later down the road but ordering one would have me nervous and you'd at least have that piece of mind coming off the lot. Take it out on the highway and then run it through your typical commute to see if it will do well. I drive a 17 Silverado and my wife has a 16 Suburban, we're both fortunate to not have any symptoms of the common vibrations and other issues. We both have lower/mid level trim and 5.3/6L80E/3.08 4 wheel drive set ups and heavy BFG All Terrains, not sure if that plays any part or not. I just turned over 15k miles on mind Friday and my wife is north of 85k miles currently. I put over 200 miles on my truck before I bought it... I did the same with my 2011 I bought new.
My truck is a 2017 5.3/6L80E/2 spd t-case/3.08 and my wife drives a 2016 5.3/6L80E/1 spd t-case/3.08. Everyone has an opinion... I have auto on my truck and my wife's burb and don't use it. I'm sure plenty of people do without issue but here's my take on it... 1. When it's in 4HI everything is already locked in place, less time to react to slippage on ice. 2 The other advantage in my opinion is when it's in AUTO the front diff is engaged and the transfer case cycles in and out as needed. I think the clutches in the transfer case will wear faster this way and need repair sooner than if I just run it in 4HI. If conditions allow me to run more than 55 or so then it's a safe bet I can just run it in 2WD but I've had it up 70+ passing in 4HI with my 2003 Z71/2011 Silvy/current vehicles all with autotracs without issues.
I leave mine in 4 HI most of the winter (Oct-May) and have it on wet/ice/snow/dry depending on the day. I wouldn't worry to much, it does bind when cornering in 4HI which I try to avoid but it happens... what you're describing isn't going to do any major harm.
Drive it for as long as you can before signing the deal, check it out for obvious issues and then enjoy the piece of mind that there's a little bit of the power train warranty left. I'm about to turn over 85k on my wife's 2016 burb we bought used and I'm still happy with it, it's the most expensive vehicle I've bought by far in my lifetime and don't regret it.
My 2016 Suburban LT was an Enterprise rental. Bought it in February of 2017 with just over 40k miles and currently have 83k and counting. I'm very happy with my purchase and wouldn't hesitate to do it again. I did and would recommend to buy within the powertrain warranty, that was comforting knowing I had another 20k in case the engine/trans was mysteriously abused and let go quick after purchase.
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