jvbronco

$2200 - price obo Minneapolis, Minnesota Leer 100XL topper Purchased new in 2019. Trading in the truck. Paid $2640 for topper + installation and parts costs (total installed cost was $2984.33) Fits: 2014-2018 Chevy Silverado / GMC Sierra 5-foot 8-inch bed (Crew Cab short bed) Color: Summit White/Olympic White (WA8624) Features: - Double Bulb Seal - Standard Side Slider - DS - Standard Side Slider - PS - FUSE BOX Additional Options: - Removable Front Slider Window - Screen Protector on Both Sides - Automatic 12V Domelight w/GP Switch - Keyless Entry (locks and unlocks with truck key fob) - Marine felt liner - THULE Roof rack

Thanks folks! I know that AFM and transmission issues are two big gremlins with these trucks. I've now dealt with both. Think that stuff is in my rear view mirror or is the party just getting started?

What did you ask for... what was the catalyst for the last dealer to do a re learn? My truck is in the shop now having a temp sensor replaced and getting the new fluid.

Camper shell where I grew up (New Mexico), topper where I live now (Minnesota). Tried to work a topper into a trade in a couple trucks back and I was basically getting $100-$200 for it. Sold it myself for around $1000. Was a $1500 Ranch topper about 6 months old. Now I have a higher-end Leer topper - paid almost $3k for it. Flirting with selling my truck to Carvana and the quote is exactly $101 more when I include the topper. I had the same experience the OP had, daily searches for 4-6 weeks and saw maybe 1 viable option. All seemed to be about 75% retail cost. Buying used didn't make sense. When it comes time to get out of my current truck, will sell private party again.

I have a 2017 6.2 Crew Cab NHT max tow that I really like. Pulls my travel trailer well and has never left me walking. Just crossed the 48000 mark and just paid the sucker off. I'm fortunate to have it paid off and also fortunate enough to have a bit of cash reserves to throw at something new. Problem is that it doesn't seem to like me lately. Since October, I've had the lifters/ pushrod replaced due to an AFM issue (towed to dealer), repaired paint chips (front fenders, sides of doors, rear fenders - seems like spray paint would have been more durable), and now it's in the shop getting a new transmission temp sensor and fluid flush for engine whining, chugging, and hard shifts. Tech insists current issue is not a bad torque converter. Lots of threads out there on issues with the 8 speed transmission. My concern is that at 50k miles, I'm already having fairly significant engine and transmission work. Not to mention shaky paint quality. Seems like some red flags for a long term-keeper. Thoughts on the prospects on this truck lasting me another 5-8 years/ 100-150k miles... or should I dump it while I can? I know i'm just asking folks opinions - but that's exactly what I'm after!

Similar experiences here with my white '17. Started noticing paint chips on the front fender, both doors, rocker panel, and now rear fender. Touched them up last fall before it got cold here in Minnesota. Will need to make another pass when things warm up again. Encouraging to hear that rust doesn't seem to be a major issue - fingers crossed that's the case.

Got the paint touched up. used dr color chip and overall I'm satisfied. Paint wasn't 100% match (had the same issue paint-matching my leer topper - maybe the paint on the truck is a bit off?). I also could not get the paint to be flush. The issue I had was that all of my chips are on vertical panels and the paint just bled out of the hole before it had a chance to set. Was like pouring milk onto the white paint at some points. I tried about a dozen times over the course of a couple of days, using a combination of applying a second coat per instructions vs completely removing and starting over (including proper prep in -between). I also used the dropper, glove method, brushes, and squeegee tools. The front fender (next to headlight) seemed to finish the best compared to the doors. To be fair, it's not THAT noticeable. I fully expected NOT to have a 100% match with color or sheen, but the remaining divots drive me nuts. Ultimately, I was able to cover the bare metal and create a finish that only I'll probably notice. I also expect this to achieve corrosion resistance (which was my primary goal). It was also nearly $1400 cheaper than taking it in to a shop. So, dr color chip was a win for me, given the cost and effort. I attached an image that shows a couple of the repairs (fender + lower-door mark & door upper-door mark). The fender, especially, looks MUCH better in the photo than in person.

Hoping for no rust issues. We had a Kia Soul that developed rust after a winter with a small ding down to the bare metal so now I assume the truck will do the same. It arrives tomorrow and I plan to install asap weather permitting. Honestly, this is my first issue with shipping (I've had a 2011 1500, 2014 1500, 2016 3500, and the 2017 1500). It does look like I hit a patch of something to cause these chips.

My main concern is avoiding rust since winter and snow is almost here. I ordered the Dr Color Chip recommended above. Will report back on how well it works.

2017 Silverado with 6.2 engine. Truck has 46xxx miles and just got back from having both banks of AFM lifters replaced along with fixing a bent push rod and broken cylinder valve spring - all covered under warranty. Just noticed some paint chips on the front fender and both front doors (must have gone though some construction work). Chips are small but down to the bare metal. I'm in Minnesota so I'm mainly concerned about rust when the snow and salt start flying. After getting several quotes, best I'm looking at to have the paint fixed by a body shop is ~$400-500 per panel (about ~$1500 total). $1500 to protect against rust and new tires probably due in the spring, I'm at a point where I'm beginning to question putting money into an engine with 46000 miles that has already had major engine work done. Before the paint, I figured I'd just ride it out to just before the powertrain warranty is out and see how it's been going to determine whether I wanted to hold onto. Any tips for rust-proofing the scratches and chips in a way that bridges the gap between $15 paint pen that looks like I applied white out vs full-on body work for 1.5 grand? Thoughts, guidance, or recommendations appreciated.

Somewhere in the middle of Kansas... Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Here is a copy of my component letter. This warrants my steering components 75k miles and 60 months from now. I'm assuming these parts are not covered in my 5yr/100k power train. I expressed concern to my service tech about having issues after the warranty period, noting how happy I've been with their help thus far. He had to file a request with GM. Once it was approved, he called and talked me though what it meant and I got the letter about a week later. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Wonder how much life we get out of the lock tight. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

​ I doubt it but it might. the beds are different widths front-to-back, meaning they are not always perfectly square. Worth measuring though. Also might be close enough that it would work and just be a tiny bit off. I used a non-matching camper shell for a while because it gave a place for my dogs to go after going to the lake. I was okay looking at the mis-matched shell because I knew it was saving my interior

​ The dealer performed the TSB #PIT5501E (or newer), which is the locktite fix. This TSB was not available when I had my initial issues last spring, so I'm hoping this is a permanent fix. They replaced the steering gear last spring. I expressed my concern about having issues after my warranty is up and they filed something called a 'component letter' with GM, which would provide me additional warranty on the steering components I've had issues with. The letter is good for 60 months / 75k miles. GM needs to approve it, but my service tech said he expects it to be approved. I'll know more this week. Truck seems good and steering is nice and tight again.