AndrewF

Looking for help troubleshooting a metallic like front end rattle. Figured I’d see if anyone had thoughts before I schedule an appointment with the dealer. The rattle is fairly loud and occurs primarily when the front driver side wheel hits a bump, even fairly minor road seams. Sometimes does it when the passenger hits a bump but I don’t believe when the rear hits. Rattle still occurs when foot is pressing brake peddle so I think that rules out the caliper rattle I’ve read about. I’ve also checked the running boards and they are tight. Most noticeable at slow speeds. Any insight is appreciated.

With regards to the updates, I’m assuming the tool doesnt stop working when not updated right? Just that new vehicles after the last update wouldn’t work with the tool? Or how does the whole update thing work?

I am in the market for a bidirectional scan tool so was hoping someone can help point me in the right direction. There are so many options out there it is hard to narrow down which make/model to choose. I have always done my own vehicle work so looking to maximize capability with the scanner. Ideal price is $1k or less but would be willing to exceed if it opens up significant benefits. Currently my 24 2500 is the newest vehicle but also have a few mid to late 2010s Subarus as well. It seems that the Autel MP900 has a decent amount of features at a reasonable price?

Looks like you're about there. The screenshot below is from the 2024 order guide but should be the same for yours. The only other item that came with my truck (which has VYU) that isn't specifically called out is the wiring harness (also below) which is supposed to prevent issues with the large electrical draw of plow operation. This wasn't installed and came in a bag with the upfitter switch kit.

Really depends on what extent the towing is. Are you going across the country on highways or to fairly local campgrounds? If you're just local towing then I wouldn't derate your truck much, just make sure the weight of your trailer and equipment stays below your limit. Which for my truck is 14500lbs bumper pull. Yeah it will work hard when you're over 5 figures in weight but who cares if it is just say 50 miles. In my opinion the main thing with towing campers is wind resistance. My 3200lb single axle camper tows fairly hard for what it is due to the wind. But then if I use my truck to tow a family members 8000lb camper it doesn't really feel any different as wind resistance is similar. I've also towed a 5000lb airstream and it barely felt like anything was there.

Is there a spec on what temperatures are acceptable vs. not acceptable? My '24 has fairly weak AC as well but I don't want to waste my time or the dealers time if it is still in spec.

Stuff like this is why I have trust issues with anyone else working on my vehicles.

The 6.6 gas has been one of the more reliable engines produced lately. Interested to see what the dealership says but hopefully you're still under warranty so it'll get taken care of.

Nevermind should’ve just done a search first. They’re called Micro 2 fuses.

Can someone point me in the right direction on what size fuses these trucks take? Specifically under hood box (not sure if the cab is different). They are smaller than the usual small fuses I’ve used/have, I ordered mini fuses but they’re still too big. So if someone knows the name of the type/size that would be great.

Anyone know what PID display he's using? Haven't seen one that shows transmission gear.

Since I am also curious on this, do you keep the extension tube in at all times and put the factory cap on it? Or do you remove the extension after adding the oil?

I’m pretty sure all the bumpers are the same other than parking sensor holes. I switched the ones on my 24 from chrome to black. If you’re near N central PA I still have the chrome front one I’m trying to sell, without the parking sensor holes.

Should work with the 6L90 as well.

Rock auto sells them for <$10. Worth a shot