AndrewF

Really depends on what extent the towing is. Are you going across the country on highways or to fairly local campgrounds? If you're just local towing then I wouldn't derate your truck much, just make sure the weight of your trailer and equipment stays below your limit. Which for my truck is 14500lbs bumper pull. Yeah it will work hard when you're over 5 figures in weight but who cares if it is just say 50 miles. In my opinion the main thing with towing campers is wind resistance. My 3200lb single axle camper tows fairly hard for what it is due to the wind. But then if I use my truck to tow a family members 8000lb camper it doesn't really feel any different as wind resistance is similar. I've also towed a 5000lb airstream and it barely felt like anything was there.

Is there a spec on what temperatures are acceptable vs. not acceptable? My '24 has fairly weak AC as well but I don't want to waste my time or the dealers time if it is still in spec.

Stuff like this is why I have trust issues with anyone else working on my vehicles.

The 6.6 gas has been one of the more reliable engines produced lately. Interested to see what the dealership says but hopefully you're still under warranty so it'll get taken care of.

Nevermind should’ve just done a search first. They’re called Micro 2 fuses.

Can someone point me in the right direction on what size fuses these trucks take? Specifically under hood box (not sure if the cab is different). They are smaller than the usual small fuses I’ve used/have, I ordered mini fuses but they’re still too big. So if someone knows the name of the type/size that would be great.

Anyone know what PID display he's using? Haven't seen one that shows transmission gear.

Since I am also curious on this, do you keep the extension tube in at all times and put the factory cap on it? Or do you remove the extension after adding the oil?

I’m pretty sure all the bumpers are the same other than parking sensor holes. I switched the ones on my 24 from chrome to black. If you’re near N central PA I still have the chrome front one I’m trying to sell, without the parking sensor holes.

Should work with the 6L90 as well.

Rock auto sells them for <$10. Worth a shot

Check the tightness of the coolant overflow bottle bolts. For many people they loosen (me included) and cause noise in the cab. Once I tightened them i haven’t heard anything since.

What firewall penetration does everyone typically use for the 24+ refresh trucks? Bulletin 193d for the refresh trucks specifies the firewall penetration on the passenger side behind the battery. While the original 153e bulletin routes across the top of the firewall and through the drivers side. 193d requires removing the silver insulation/clips from the upfitter battery power wire and then routing behind the HVAC duct in the cab. That seems like more work when also considering the 4 power outputs from the switches also need to go back behind the duct. It appears it is the same upfitter kit for both pre/post refresh trucks so I’m assuming it does not matter?

I’m not sure if I’m reading this right but the TSB seems to say that the trans shouldn’t make a noise in park? I think every 10L1000 I’ve seen (including mine) has a slight whine in park so I figured it was normal, but this TSB isn’t very clear.

Yeah of all the "upgrades" to the truck the rear cover is probably more for aesthetics than actual improvement. The magnetic drain plug is nice but it really isn't that hard to pull the cover itself, especially now that these have reusable gaskets and you don't have to spend a ton of time cleaning gasket/RTV off the surface. These covers probably do keep it cooler but I haven't ever seen a rear diff burn out either. Surprisingly I have never owned a GM truck that had a drain plug. 1972 C20, 1985 K30, 2000 1500, 2006 1500, 2009 1500, and now this 2024 2500. I don't know what GM trucks came with the drain plug but I wonder if they don't put one in so you have to pull the cover and clean the magnet. That is probably the most important thing.