SoCal Angler

Thank you to all who were quick to respond; providing me with timely and correct info needed to get this correctly addressed today with the body shop. I will be providing this doc I created (with the help of AI) for them to follow. I made it as clear as possible. Maybe they'll consider this disrespectful, but they did not perform the install correctly the first time. If they allow me to (which I do not believe it is allowed for liability and insurance requirements) I will bring the bolts home and replace myself. Hitch install - Steps and torque specs.docxHitch install - Steps and torque specs.docx

Just visited the body shop. They agreed that the bolts are "torque to yield" bolts and will order and replace all six bolts (GM OEM). They assured me that the tech will install using a torque wrench and and torque angle gauge. The estimator is not too clear with OEM torque specs, finding different numbers. Are the specs listed on my attached pic correct? I also googled and found various specs. Not sure why they are not using OEM service manual. I will provide them with the print out and steps to follow when torquing.

How difficult is it to access these six mounting bolts for torquing? I do not have a lift. I may want to replace and tighten the bolts myself to ensure it is done to proper specs. Since body shop did not do it properly to begin with, I’m not confident they will do it correctly with new bolts. Also, they claimed 74 ft lbs when that is not correct. Also, seems odd that there are only 4 vertical bolts and two horizontal bolts..,, my ford f350 I believe had 6-8 vertical bolts.

Thanks newdude, that's what I thought. Since new bolts were used, can they retorque them without issue?

After my recent rear end bumper damage, body shop has made the repairs and included a new OEM receiver hitch. I started thinking about how it was tightened...to specs or by hand or ??. I called the body shop and asked and they said it was tightened by an impact gun. I said I wanted it tightened to OEM specs. They said no problem, bring it to shop today and they will torque to specs, which they say is 74 ft/lbs. A couple of questions,,,, 1. Should new bolts have been used? If so, how many are there (bill shows one and four (I assume different areas of receiver). 2., Since they torqued with impact gun and now are going to probably loosen and then torque to spces, will that damage/stretch the bolts? 3. If old bolts were reused (truck has 9000 miles), is that a problem? 4. Any other things iI may have missed with regard to receiver replacement? NOTE: Attached are the receiver hitch specs from my digital OEM service manual. It shows to horizontal mounting bolts and four vertically mounted bolts. Other sections of manual reference eight vertical bolts. Thanks!

Thanks newdude, much appreciated! It looks just like my truck after the damage, meaning that area was not compromised. Apparently on the new trucks the left side does come from the factory with lower black screw off center/forward ....relative to the sheet metal hole cut out for it, and less gap on left side (compared to right side) in the area where sheet metal comes together for spot welding.

I took my truck in for a left side bumper/tailgate/fender repair estimate. There is a section of the tailgate jamb that I was hoping someone could verify and send me a pic of theirs. I have attached two pics...left and right sides of tailgate jamb. Red markings indicate areas I am referring to on damaged side. Green marking indicate left side where no damage occured. The sheet metal edge that is spot welded and two black screws on each side is where I am focusing. The left side sheet metal vertical section along the edge has almost no gap and the lower black screw looks more forward (compared to right side). Can someone who has a 2023 2500/3500 snap a couple of pics of this same door jamb section on both the left and right side and post and/or send to me. It would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Parking Lot Damage... The bumper appears to be pushed forward into the body and scratched the body behind the bumper. The left side fender near left edge of bumper, where bumper wraps forward, appears bulged out. The very bottom lower left of tailgate now scrapes against body when opening the tailgate. NOTE: Interesting....the chrome bumper does not appear scratched nor the plastic trim (pic of bumper with black marks is camera/light reflection. Repair questions… 1. Will the complete truck bed need to be replaced due the bulging out of fender and bed/fender pushed slightly inward causing tailgate to run? 2. If no bed is not replaced. How do they address the bulging outward and tailgate rub? 3. Other thoughts on this repair? Thanks?

What was wrong with the 2024 3500? Gas or diesel?

Update....It's been over two months since I tightened the bolts on the coolant reservoir....no more noises (at least the one I had)! Thanks Pryme for the tip!

No, 2023 did not come with wireless on standard audio. Perhaps it came on upper tier audio systems.

My 2023 GMC 3500 HD SLE has the standard 8" Infotainment audio system with wired Apple Car Play. It works well. However, wireless would be a nice feature to have. I have read about a USB dongle that can convert our stereos (that have wired Car Play) to a wireless system. I've also read that the dongle adjusts screen size to partial/1/2 of full screen size when in use. Does anyone have one of these dongle and can share their experience with it? Thanks!

Pryme, I checked mine and it was loose! The side mounted bolt was very loose and the second vertically mounted bolt slightly loose. I tightened both. Time will tell if this was the fluttering sound I was experiencing. Thanks for the tip!

My '23 GMC Sierra 3500 Slightly Less Equipped (SLE) came with one.

I really like the Cirrus 620...one of the reasons is... it's one of only a few hardside TC that can be installed and used with the tailgate in closed/up position. Have you had any issues with regard to the front over cab "Stargazer" window? I've read issues with sealant gaps, leaks, flying off, etc? I believe it is only chemically mounted to roof (Silkaflex) with no fasteners used. Also, how does your multi pro tailgate work (if you have one) when used as entry/exit step? Would you purchase the 620 again? Thanks!