SoCal Angler

I have the standard steering column shifter (not the center console). Do you know if it can be programmed to set parking brake every time, even on flat ground? Or, is there a reason not to?

2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options: SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving. When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off. The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically. I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation. When is the parking brake automatically engaged? Under what specific circumstances? Can the auto set parameters be changed? I like the auto set feature. It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4). Thanks!

Thank you to all who were quick to respond; providing me with timely and correct info needed to get this correctly addressed today with the body shop. I will be providing this doc I created (with the help of AI) for them to follow. I made it as clear as possible. Maybe they'll consider this disrespectful, but they did not perform the install correctly the first time. If they allow me to (which I do not believe it is allowed for liability and insurance requirements) I will bring the bolts home and replace myself. Hitch install - Steps and torque specs.docxHitch install - Steps and torque specs.docx

Just visited the body shop. They agreed that the bolts are "torque to yield" bolts and will order and replace all six bolts (GM OEM). They assured me that the tech will install using a torque wrench and and torque angle gauge. The estimator is not too clear with OEM torque specs, finding different numbers. Are the specs listed on my attached pic correct? I also googled and found various specs. Not sure why they are not using OEM service manual. I will provide them with the print out and steps to follow when torquing.

How difficult is it to access these six mounting bolts for torquing? I do not have a lift. I may want to replace and tighten the bolts myself to ensure it is done to proper specs. Since body shop did not do it properly to begin with, I’m not confident they will do it correctly with new bolts. Also, they claimed 74 ft lbs when that is not correct. Also, seems odd that there are only 4 vertical bolts and two horizontal bolts..,, my ford f350 I believe had 6-8 vertical bolts.

Thanks newdude, that's what I thought. Since new bolts were used, can they retorque them without issue?

After my recent rear end bumper damage, body shop has made the repairs and included a new OEM receiver hitch. I started thinking about how it was tightened...to specs or by hand or ??. I called the body shop and asked and they said it was tightened by an impact gun. I said I wanted it tightened to OEM specs. They said no problem, bring it to shop today and they will torque to specs, which they say is 74 ft/lbs. A couple of questions,,,, 1. Should new bolts have been used? If so, how many are there (bill shows one and four (I assume different areas of receiver). 2., Since they torqued with impact gun and now are going to probably loosen and then torque to spces, will that damage/stretch the bolts? 3. If old bolts were reused (truck has 9000 miles), is that a problem? 4. Any other things iI may have missed with regard to receiver replacement? NOTE: Attached are the receiver hitch specs from my digital OEM service manual. It shows to horizontal mounting bolts and four vertically mounted bolts. Other sections of manual reference eight vertical bolts. Thanks!

Thanks newdude, much appreciated! It looks just like my truck after the damage, meaning that area was not compromised. Apparently on the new trucks the left side does come from the factory with lower black screw off center/forward ....relative to the sheet metal hole cut out for it, and less gap on left side (compared to right side) in the area where sheet metal comes together for spot welding.

I took my truck in for a left side bumper/tailgate/fender repair estimate. There is a section of the tailgate jamb that I was hoping someone could verify and send me a pic of theirs. I have attached two pics...left and right sides of tailgate jamb. Red markings indicate areas I am referring to on damaged side. Green marking indicate left side where no damage occured. The sheet metal edge that is spot welded and two black screws on each side is where I am focusing. The left side sheet metal vertical section along the edge has almost no gap and the lower black screw looks more forward (compared to right side). Can someone who has a 2023 2500/3500 snap a couple of pics of this same door jamb section on both the left and right side and post and/or send to me. It would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Parking Lot Damage... The bumper appears to be pushed forward into the body and scratched the body behind the bumper. The left side fender near left edge of bumper, where bumper wraps forward, appears bulged out. The very bottom lower left of tailgate now scrapes against body when opening the tailgate. NOTE: Interesting....the chrome bumper does not appear scratched nor the plastic trim (pic of bumper with black marks is camera/light reflection. Repair questions… 1. Will the complete truck bed need to be replaced due the bulging out of fender and bed/fender pushed slightly inward causing tailgate to run? 2. If no bed is not replaced. How do they address the bulging outward and tailgate rub? 3. Other thoughts on this repair? Thanks?

What was wrong with the 2024 3500? Gas or diesel?

Update....It's been over two months since I tightened the bolts on the coolant reservoir....no more noises (at least the one I had)! Thanks Pryme for the tip!

No, 2023 did not come with wireless on standard audio. Perhaps it came on upper tier audio systems.

My 2023 GMC 3500 HD SLE has the standard 8" Infotainment audio system with wired Apple Car Play. It works well. However, wireless would be a nice feature to have. I have read about a USB dongle that can convert our stereos (that have wired Car Play) to a wireless system. I've also read that the dongle adjusts screen size to partial/1/2 of full screen size when in use. Does anyone have one of these dongle and can share their experience with it? Thanks!

Pryme, I checked mine and it was loose! The side mounted bolt was very loose and the second vertically mounted bolt slightly loose. I tightened both. Time will tell if this was the fluttering sound I was experiencing. Thanks for the tip!

My '23 GMC Sierra 3500 Slightly Less Equipped (SLE) came with one.

I really like the Cirrus 620...one of the reasons is... it's one of only a few hardside TC that can be installed and used with the tailgate in closed/up position. Have you had any issues with regard to the front over cab "Stargazer" window? I've read issues with sealant gaps, leaks, flying off, etc? I believe it is only chemically mounted to roof (Silkaflex) with no fasteners used. Also, how does your multi pro tailgate work (if you have one) when used as entry/exit step? Would you purchase the 620 again? Thanks!

Not precisely what you are referring to and not of any help, but... I get a fluttering type of noise that sounds like it is coming from the front console / behind dash, driver's side area. It happens intermittently and only when traveling approx. 20mph or faster, and again, not all of the time. I don't what it can be.

What is the reason for that...(weight of 6 passengers for six seatbelts)?

Nice set up! I’m surprised about the tow mirrors not extending far enough out to see sides of truck/camper. I’m assuming you fully extended them? What are your holding tank sizes?

Thought I'd start a topic where you can post pic(s) your truck/camper combo and tell us a little about why you chose it (year/model camper), how you use it, and any trucks mods that were needed to carry it safely. I am considering purchasing a slide in camper and would love to see what all of you are using. NOTE: Let us know if you are using your Multi-Pro Tailgate as a camper entry step. Thanks for participating!

The repair looks pretty good. However, if it bothers you enough, you can always visit a few local body shops and see what they would charge to repair.... as a cash deal. You can also price out a used tailgate that is excellent condition (some people sell theirs when they add tuck campers and never plan on installing the tailgate again). I would also check cost of new for comparison. I'm kind of a stickler for things, and it being a newer truck, I would probably have it repaired/replaced. But that's just me.

That's what I'm thinking

Interesting....I just looked up Husky wheel well liners for my '23 GMC 3500 and they are not available for my truck. They are available for Chevy 2500 but not 3500. They are also not available for the GMC 2500. I do have the factory wheel liners but they do not protect the frame rail...just the wheel well.

My father uses this one and it works great… https://www.harborfreight.com/anti-rattle-hitch-tightener-58134.html?hftm_sc=373&utm_source=google&hftm_source=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21901739255&campaignid=21901739255&utm_content=171677810782&adsetid=171677810782&product=58134&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21901739255&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4dIRcWCzqYdiEMmKeYkRjtFU&gclid=CjwKCAjw6vHHBhBwEiwAq4zvA-qnEg9nsA2edIxcN6KXPFvnqpxxOUF5ONb_RBOUlvgvSOwjd5gtRxoC36wQAvD_BwE