SoCal Angler

I assume you do not use the QJ on this truck, or do you?

Do you plan on using them on your HD truck? If so, what is your current weight

Considering a QJ primarily for my smaller vehicles’ (two RAV4s and a Camry) maintenance (brakes, trans service, diff, transfer case). Looking at both the 6000TLX and the 8000TLX. These are rated at 6000# and 8000# respectively. There are various adapters available for jacking points ( ex pinch welds, flat pucks, etc). QuickJack The 8000 appears capable of lifting my ‘23 3500, Gas, 6 Spd., 4X4, SRW, Crew with a curb weight of 7125#. Do any of you use the QJ for your truck and/or smaller vehicles? If so, which model? If you use on your truck, where do you place Jack points? I know the owners manual for my truck calls for (at least for spare tire changing) between shock mount and leaf spring pack u bolt for rear and built in round point near frame for front. Obviously from the the rear axle to front jack point makes it too long of a spread for the QJ which has a max spread of 66”. Thoughts?

Congrats on a very nice looking truck! Enjoy!

Are these gas or diesel? Things to consider... The crew will allow for ample room for your growing grandchildren. The '21 has the 6 speed trans. The '24 has the 10 speed (do some research on the '24 10 speed) The crew has 10K miles less. Are they one owner? Overall condition? Service records? How were they taken care of....(may be the most important thing to consider)?

Not sure of your location…, but there is a member here who has a trans shop in Las Vegas, NV. Search and you can find info on this forum.

Curious, what kind of weights are you hauling? That doesn't seem like many miles for an HD truck to lose it TC.

Thanks for the clarification. I assumed fine the cabin filter had a c at end of part number and signified carbon, it won’t be same for sir filter. After thinking about it, carbon for engine air filter doesn’t make sense. BTW… what is T1?

I believe it is noted on RA website where these air filters are featured.

I purchase the engine air and cabin filters from Rock Auto for my '23 gas. Air: ACDELCO A3244C $26.89 - I believe the C indicates "carbon" filtration vs standard which is not carbon Cabin: ACDELCO Gold/Professional CF1184C is $16.28 (Carbon) Interesting: The FRAM CF11966 cabin air filter is $3 more than the ACDelco Gold The AC Delco air filter is orange color foam/rubber portion (Fram?), but so are the Baldwin, WIX, and a few others. NOTE: There appear to be three versions of ACDelco cabin filters....Standard particulate, carbon, electrostatic

Absolutely have them replace with new!!! It wasn't a reconditioned wheel when you took it to them, so why accept reconditioning. If it's a reputable dealer it should not be a problem replacing. FYI...my local used tire shop would have never damaged a wheel like that!

Very good write up on EPB, parts, and replacing shoes. Details and pics are important and appreciated for the average DIYer. Thanks for the post!

Out here in the desert we get a lot of bugs on our windshields while driving. In addition, there are a lot of trucks on the road in my area, so rock chips are also a concern (I currently have a windshield chip one on my other vehicle... RAV4). I get quite a few bugs when traveling with the travel trailer to far off places during the Spring and Summer. I am considering a bug/small stones hood protector but haven't found any of them that claim to have done any wind testing, or any testing for that matter. Are these bug deflectors just another gimmick? These are two that fit the late model GMC HD trucks. I am not looking for a hood ornament; I'm looking for something that actually works. Husky also makes models that have a taller profile like the WeatherTech model. It appears that the taller profile models claim to be more of a stone and bug protector, as opposed to a hood protector for the lower profile models. The Aeroskin by Husky appears to be the only that uses 3M tape for installation...no screws/brackets. The taller profile models use screws and brackets that utilize existing holes in hood....not sure I like this type of install, as reviewers claim that brackets can be seen due to its taller profile. Husky Low Profile Hood Protector WeatherTech - Stone and Bug Deflector Anybody here use a bug/small stones hood protector? Does it actually work? What model/brand? Thanks

I wanted the cab lights, but I live in CA so my truck does not have them. I'm fine with NO cab lights...NO holes above driver cab is OK by me....and I don't live a wet climate!!

I have been considering a scan tool for my ‘23 6.6L gas with 6 speed and Toyota vehicles. I believe bi directional scan tools are preferred to allow for more than just pulling codes. The Car Care Nut over on YT has pretty good things to say about one that he reviews on his channel. He discussed its uses on Toyotas, but it works on most vehicles. Vid is 3 years old and no updates on the tool.

I'll probably be doing the same....just using the compressed air to push fluid out at bleeder ports. I like vehicle specific machined aluminum reservoir caps that SpeediBled uses so I will be purchasing a Speedi...if they still let me, as they are made in Canada!!!

When “might” that be needed? Would it be fir the reasons mentioned by bruce58? Also, which recommend DIYer scanners are able to perform this Automated Bleed Procedure? I’d hate to be bleeding brakes only to find out that a scanner is needed and not have one. It’s not something I’ll be performing anytime soon, but will in the future.

This was the second part of my first post...... Are there any precautions on the '23 GMC HD trucks that need to be taken when bleeding brakes...(ABS module, EPB, etc.)? Will GM or other software be needed to perform a brake fluid exchange, as I have read about ABS needing software to allow for it to be bled or perhaps other situations during bleeding process? Thanks!

Now you have me wondering if a vacuum system, such as the Mity Vac is better solution for eliminating a fluid catastrophe! I’ve read that vacuum systems struggle eliminating air from the system, especially around bleed ports. Some have used silicone based grease around bleed port bases (threads) to eliminate air intrusion.

Interesting…. Never considered the possibility of hose bursting. Although 10-15psi is not much pressure, I suppose it’s a possibility, an ugly one at that!! I haven’t read of any such disasters. I guess you could drape a large beach towel over the pressurized fluid container while performing this procedure. The Speedi Bleed is the unit I am considering. It uses EPDM for air hose to tire. The hose construction(into reservoir) is not mentioned. However, I have seen some bleeders that offer Oiteker style clamps. Perhaps a mod could be made to these pressure bleeders where quality hose and Oiteker clamps are used. I use Oiteker clamps when I make up fuel hoses for outboard motors.

I've decided that I need a brake bleeder that allows the bleeding to be performed solo. I have read about the Mity Vac (vacuum) , Motive (pressure), and Speedi Bleeder (pressure that uses your tires for the pressure...or an air compressor if you chose). I am leaning towards pressure bleeding as I believe the opportunity for air/vacuum leaks is minimized between pushing fluid (pressure) and sucking (vacuum) fluid. The Speedi uses vehicle specific alum master cylinder adaptors. The others use universal adaptors....I have read several instances where they leak.' Does anyone have any experience with these tools, especially the Speedi? I'll be starting my bleeding on an upcoming brake job on my 2018 Toyota RAV4. In the future I would like to try it on my '23 GMC 3500HD 6.6L Gas model when that time comes. I would need to purchase specific adaptor for it. Are there any precautions on the '23 GMC HD trucks that need to be taken (ABS module, EPB, etc.)? Thanks!

1. What speed during the 2-3 miles? 2. Coasting....while in drive or neutral? 3. Is that 4 low or high? 4. In do have some dirt roads nearby....is that preferred over pavement? If so, is process any different? Thanks!

This is my first 4WD truck since 2005. I live in the 'burbs (semi agric. area) and have not used 4WD since purchasing new in 08/23. Residing in a zip code where it very, very rarely snows and when it does it's a miracle!! In addition, it seldom rains. So, 4WD is not really needed unless off-roading which I do not do. With previous trucks (most have been 2WD), I've towed trailers and launched my boats in 2WD since 1998 with no problems, including both fresh/salt water. Since my truck is still basically new at 4300 miles (it's my second vehicle and is primarily used for towing a TT and boat), how do I properly break-in the 4WD transfer case and all of the 4WD components? I'm a little confused, as my owner's manual discuses several applications for trucks with various options. There is no mention of a break in. I've attached a pic of dash that shows my controls. I have an SLE with 5 options. Some of these are included as standard and some are options.... 1. 2 speed electronic transfer case 2. Hill descent control 3. Auto locking rear diff 4. X31 Off Road package NOTE: I have some dirt fields near me where break in can take place. Thanks!

My oem head unit is a basic 8" screen....no nav Found this one that may be the ticket.... The byte tango 7 I can use a sand bag mount and lay on dash so as not to drill / glue anything onto dash and was thinking of mounting the camera adjacent or in place of the top center marker lamp at rear of trailer https://www.haloview.com/

I do not have the trailer camera provision option on my SLE. I would like to have rear/side view cameras when using my travel trailer. I believe it provides a level of safety while driving and also when backing into campsites. What would be my options? Are there connections to my 8" infotainment screen without tearing apart the dash to make the connections? Has anyone added camera(s) and can comment on their quality, connections required, etc.? Are Bluetooth back up cameras my only option? Thanks!