SoCal Angler

Tried that but it still did not clear

When you say a "quick extension and retraction", what portion of mirror are you referring to.....actual mirror glass moving it left to right....or the extension slide when used for towing trailers? Thanks!

Mine didn't work at first, until I placed key fob right next to button. Hold button until tail lights flash three times. Worked great!

Yes, my wheel also points slightly to the left when driving on level roads. If I turn wheel to center, truck steers to right....just as you describe. I took it in to dealer when it had approx. 300 miles (dealer closest to my home, but not where I purchased) and they said I needed to wait until truck had 500 miles on it, then bring it back in for alignment. Just haven't gotten around to it. One the guys (boss of service writers)said it was common on these new trucks and steering wheel may not be perfectly straight even after alignment. We'll see after alignment...probably take it in next week.

RE: '23 GMC 3500 4X4, Crew Cab standard bed I finally got around to setting up my travel trailer as I prepare for a weeklong trip. Since I now have a 2.5" receiver, I purchased an Equalizer brand shank that is 2.5" on receiver end with a 3" drop and 7" rise. It's 12" long and my tailgate hits the electric jack when I attempt to lower tailgate. Tailgate must be taller than my previous 2003 Ford F350, as I was able to lower tailgate with a 12" long shank. It may also be that the Ford was a 4X2. Can't seem to source a 2.5" shank that is 18" long, in any drop/rise format. I can find 18” length but only for 2” receivers. Anyone run into this issue? What did you do? Were you able to source a 2.5" receiver end that is 18" long? If so, please share. I considered using the 2.5” to 2” reducer that came with my truck and purchase the 2”x 18” long shank but have heard that the reducers can oblong or egg shape the receiver from the slop and constant movement when towing heavy trailers. thoughts? Thanks!

Please update us.....Did you ever get the new trans?

Is your truck out of factory warranty? Did you check with dealer on potential warranty issues?

I have not yet checked with dealer about something in writing if I install....or would they install it. Been busy preparing for an upcoming camping trip....I'll be towing my TT on my truck's first towing trip. Pretty excited!

Congrats! Beautiful truck! I bought my retirement truck last month.....not ordered, but came with what I would have ordered. Please share details about your model, options, engine, trans, etc. NOTE: I put most of my truck details on my sig...makes it easier for others to comment

Interesting.....replacing switches appears to be a band-aid fix. There is no mention of how to prevent water intrusion and preventing repeat damage to switches. Ex. change plastic handle to one without holes. Perhaps the new parts are waterproof marine type plugs/switches?

see below..

Not cushioned, but I went with this for my boat and other trailers. I use an Equal-i-Zer WDH for my travel trailer. I also have an Anderson alum adjustable hitch, but this Curt is more robust and has better weight ratings. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/CURT/C45902.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAjwjaWoBhAmEiwAXz8DBT8CJWr2_P7W6xEvzxmPk43E47Bkmv_FYfg2unSywFAO8qJiQ-QUkhoC130QAvD_BwE

I was reading about the dipstick mod for '23 HD trucks with 6 speed trans. I am contemplating installing one, but still not sure. This mod adds a factory/OEM dipstick to the 6 speed trans that did not come with a dipstick in '23. The part numbers are GM (from 2019 trucks with 6 speed) and from what I have read, it is fairly straightforward install. My questions/concerns: 1. Since we may not know the actual reason why GM stopped including dipsticks in 2023 6 speeds, we can only guess....A. strictly a financial reason; B. owners causing more trans problems by over/under filling trans; C. contamination entry points (grommet used to install dipstick tube at trans and dipstick entry hole in dipstick tube). I know dipsticks have been installed in transmissions for decades, but B/C may still be legitimate concerns. 2. Warranty may be voided by performing a "modification." 3. The potential for contamination as described in "1. C" above. 4. How necessary is having a dipstick? Ex. The transmissions in my Sequoia (190K-4 speed auto) and my '03 Ford (sold at 90K-4 speed auto), never lost / used fluid. Every time I checked fluid, it was always full. The advantage I had was i was able to quickly and easily check fluid levels. Is this enough of an advantage VS the potential drawbacks of potential contamination and loss of warranty? Thoughts?

Great to know your taxes are like mine in CA and I'm not the only one suffering!! CA ditched the red light cameras several years ago......why?.....unable to prove who was driving...even with a pic!!!! Registered owner is NOT required to divulge who was driving his/her vehicle on X day and X minute/second!! REMEMBER....You should NOT run red lights for the safety of everyone!!! However, states did rake in MILLIONS with these red light camera tactics!!!

Preparing for first oil change at approx. 525 miles. Would like to begin towing (2500# boat and/or TT at 8000#. Below is copy/paste from my owner's manual RE: break in procedures. 2023 GMC Sierra 3500HD, 6.6L GAS, 4X4, Crew, Shortbed At first I was interpreting it as during the first 500 miles no towing, after which towing would be allowed. However, how much weight is allowed after 500 miles? The highlighted sentence below states that gradual weight/load can be added as well as speed. Not as precise a specification as my mind would like. So, at what miles..... are we supposed to gradually begin adding to tow weights/load/speeds? Starting and Operating New Vehicle Break-In Caution The vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But it will perform better in the long run if you follow these guidelines: . Do not drive at any one constant speed, fast or slow, for the first 800 km (500 mi). Do not make full-throttle starts. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle. . Avoid making hard stops for the first 300 km (200 mi) or so. During this time the new brake linings are not yet broken in. Hard stops with new linings (Continued) Caution (Continued) can mean premature wear and earlier replacement. Follow this breaking-in guideline every time you get new brake linings. . Do not tow a trailer during break-in. See Trailer Towing 0 272 for the trailer towing capabilities of the vehicle and more information. Following break-in, engine speed and load can be gradually increased. On new vehicles, the various mechanical and electrical systems experience a “break-in” period during the first 6,400 km (4,000 miles) of routine driving. As the vehicle is driven, the mechanical systems adjust to provide optimal fuel economy and transmission shift performance. Electrical systems will adapt and calibrate during the break-in period. A one-time occurrence of clicks and similar vehicle noises is normal during this process. Normal driving charges the vehicle’s battery to achieve the best operation of the vehicle, including fuel economy. Under Towing section of manual: Do not tow a trailer during the first 800 km (500 mi) of vehicle use to prevent damage to the engine, axle, or other parts. . Perform the first oil change before heavy towing. . Do not drive over 800 km/h (50 mph) and do not make starts at full throttle during the first 800 km (500 mi) of trailer towing.

Thanks for the tips and guidance. Going with M1 Truck and SUV. Will use the AC Delco PF63 filter.

I have yet to to tow with my '23 GMC 3500HD 6.6L GAS....WITH 6 SPEED (purposely avoided the '24 10 speed), as it is just reaching 500 miles break in and is ready for its first oil change..... What about trying this....My dad uses it on his hitch to remove rattle and any slop. He claims it works great! I plan on using one myself. Worth a try..... CURT also makes one that is made of aluminum and installs without tools. Anti-Rattle Hitch Tightener

I am considering adding a BedRug Classic Bed Liner to my 2023 GMC Sierra, Crew, 4X4, 3500HD, Shortbed. I found one site showing it fits, and one site showing it does not fit. Has anyone installed this BedRug in the same truck and can confirm fitment? Part# #BRC20SBMPK Thanks! Below are the sites that show conflicting info.... BedRug RealTruck

I'm considering a hard fold up tonneau to secure items, but figure I'll be needing to access my bed when hooked up to my fishing boat and/or TT. I'll need access via tailgate. When you are towing (ex. fishing boat or even a TT) and want to access truck bed via tailgate, how do you handle making sure that the step portion does not deploy? If it did, it would be smashed!!! Is there any way to lock out the step portion? Thanks!

I'm new at this oil selection/analysis, as I have not purchased a new truck in many years, but... After doing some reading on the subject, I believe it's probably more important to determine best OCI schedule based on oil analysis, then go with the oil flavor that delivers the best results. I would like to know more about oil analysis.... At what mileage should analysis begin (considering a new truck)? At what mileage intervals? What key components are important to monitor in an analysis? Is there a "break in" mileage that is used as a base line when beginning an analysis to determine best OCI? How many analyses are needed to determine a base line? Since there are variables in miles accumulated between analyses (towing, not towing, city, hwy, etc), how is the OCI determined based on these varying analyses? Now, since I'll be changing oil at 500 miles, and say I'm using the M1 AFS.... 1. Would an oil analysis be worthy at 500miles? 2. What would be the analysis schedule/interval to ultimately determine best OCI? Perhaps I'm way overthinking this....

Preparing to change oil now that my truck is reaching 500 miles. I do plan on towing (TT, boat). For those of you that use M1, which flavor do you prefer and why? I read that the Truck/SUV flavor is for towing. the ESP is rated for 20K miles. I plan on severe duty OCI (approx. half of regular OCI which is 7500mi). All three of these flavors meet the GM recs of...Dexos 1-Gen 3 Thanks!

It is unsettling for sure. But as mentioned, you have a warranty. Be sure to document date, mileage, etc and keep that piece of metal you found. You could mention it to dealer, but I don't believe they will document your findings. Not sure dealer would have even looked in drained oil for any metal findings. BTW....are the drain plugs non magnetic? Did you find it by running a magnet in the drained oil tub? NOTE: I'll be changing my own oil for the first time (500 miles) in the next week or so....I'll keep any eye out for what's in the oil.

I went with a new 2023 3500HD 6.6L Gas and 6 speed. It's an SLE model with a few nice options. When I was researching the 6.6L Gas and 6 Speed, I could not find any serious, recurring issues. At least for the '23 model. I avoided the '24, as I wanted the 6 speed. I avoided diesel as I don't tow heavy nor often. I tow an 8K TT on camping trips and my 16' fishing boat weekly...so the gas is the right tool for the job. If I were towing 10K+ often, and longer distances, I would have considered diesel. I wanted simple and reliable. Fingers crossed that's what I'll get! No rebates or finance offers when I purchased earlier this month. I'm in SoCal. I did get 3K UNDER MSRP!!

Interesting....I had the same 2-1 clunk on my last truck, '03 Ford F350 V10 Gas with 4 speed 4R100 auto. Truck had 82K miles. It ended up being the driveshaft slip yoke at trans end. Fix...pulled drive shaft, removed boot, cleaned shaft splines (also cleaned inside trans area where yoke enters), coated with Ford OEM slip yoke shaft grease (blue teflon), installed shaft with new boot......shifted as sooth as butter! Never another 2-1 clunk. Some Ford forum members claim...there was never sufficient grease even when these trucks were new.

Sorry to hear this. Do you have a pic of the piece of metal you can post? Also, when you say it was sitting at bottom of pan, I'm assuming you mean it drained and fell out from pan through the drain bolt hole while you were draining oil...correct?