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About Yondu

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  1. Dude, you're the one back tracking. You went from a hard sidewall LT 20" tire to a soft sidewall low load range 22. Why can't you just admit it when you're wrong? LT tires always ride firmer. The fact it didn't is because you had more rubber, proving my point that rubber is more flexible than aluminum and you will have a better / softer ride by having more rubber everything else being the same. I'm done, we have both proven my point.
  2. Simple? Took the words right out of my mouth. Let's look a little deeper so you're not so simple. Your 295/55/20 is an LT tire with a load rating of 123. 33x12.5r22 has a load range of 114. It's rated to carry 815 fewer lbs. Tell me more. Or tell me if you don't understand why they ride similar. My 20s were 115 load, my 17s are 117. LOL Grasp it yet?
  3. That's unfortunate you can't notice the difference but you're clearly not very savy with ride quality. If you think 22s ride the same as 18s....yikes
  4. You've had various trucks with various wheel comparisons. Hardly relevant. Two trucks, even the same model can ride differently. Two tires by different brands will ride drastically differently. Ever swap from new 20" tires to new 22" tires on the same truck using the exact same tire model? If not then your experiences are not as relevant. My 20s were less than a year old and I used the exact same model for both so I know for a fact you're wrong. By your own admission you didn't do as thorough of a comparison. ASSume away.
  5. I've had a lot of vehicles over the years and all of them get compliments. I get compliments on my 18 Silverado, I'd get them if I had a 18 F150 and 18 Ram too. There's a lot of people out there and different people like different things. The fact that Silverado is now the #3 truck for the first time ever is proof they messed up in a few areas. They've always been more expensive than Ram and always sold more. They've never been #3 and never had such bad reviews. Doesn't mean they're bad, but they need improvement. It's going to be as hard to get market share back as it was to lose it. Truck buyers are loyal and they made more than a few small mistakes to lose so much share.
  6. Slower acceleration, worse mpg, worse ride...all for a wheel that I looks goofy and screams I don't use my truck as a truck. Save the big wheels for SUVs.
  7. The look is preference as I disagree strongly, but I'm ok with 20s on a bigger/ newer half ton. The ride difference however is noticeable. You ASSume it's extremely minimal, I swapped out Cooper AT3 4s 275/60/r20 (33)tires for Cooper AT3 4s 285/70r17s (32.65) and felt the result justified the cost, it no longer rides harsh. Percentage wise comparing rubber, the difference between 22 and 20 would be almost the same. If you live somewhere with less than perfect roads like I do, it is noticeably better.
  8. I swapped from 20s to 17s with the same brand/model tire and got a slightly but noticeable better ride. I would never do 22s on a pickup, but the roads here I'm MN are harsher than what you'd find in the southern states due to the winters.
  9. I assume they'd just have your truck towed and it would sit at impound, doubt they'd think much about it after that. . The dealership is not GM and if you got it lemon lawed the dealership wouldn't be cutting the check.
  10. Curious if anyone has these on their K2xx? It's a 20" replica of the 18" trail boss wheel. I like how it's also +15 offset, GM oem 20s are +27 iirc. They should sit about flush with the fenders.
  11. Interesting. I'd like to see more info on this.
  12. No they were flat. Tapered would have worked better depending what the taper angle is. I ordered 2 degree shims.
  13. Some days I can't notice any vib, some days it has the tiniest amount of vib. It mostly started after my new wheels which I have had road forced 2 times. Vibs can be a compunding issue So I want to make sure everything else is right. My wife thinks it's very smooth on the highway and has commented how easy it is to fall asleep in. I'm pretty ocd though.
  14. The service manual calls for it to be parallel. Or the tsb on vibration analysis does at least. I have a feeling it was a little off even before I lifted the front 1.3" and the rear .75. I am thinking either 1.5 or 2 degree shims.
  15. A while back I installed a 2" rear block, for a 3/4" rear lift. I always meant to measure my driveline angles, but never did. I acquired a digital inclometer and set out to do this. I put the inclometer on the flat spot/flange of the transfer case output and zerod out the unit. I then put it on the same flat spot of the rear axle pinion, using a socket on the U joint to insure I was measuring a flat machined location and I get 3*. Ideally, it should have been 0, correct? Then the two pieces would be parallel to each other. Since it will move some while driving under load, I've read I want a 1 degree difference. To achieve this I would need 2 degree shims. Any input?
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