It's like you either didn't read what I said or you are chosing to ignore and explain things I already explained. Then you go on to explain things that were never even brought up because you assume I didn't already know them, like you explaining them is proof that it's new to me. Exhausting.
I wish my truck had the 6.2, but I didn't want the "options" that getting a 6.2 required for free, let alone the upcharge. You're kinda "that guy" though. Everything I have is the best and that's why I have it kind of guy. Non stop CST is the undisputed king of lifts because I have CST. 6.2 is better than everything because I have a 6.2. When researching lifts your posts kept coming up... My suspension guy said CST is the best so nothing else compares. It gets old and trivial. It's hard to believe any of your posts are unbiased 5.3 will get better mileage, there is no argument there on stock trucks. Now modded with big tires, yeah, I bet the 6.2 handles them better. Doesn't lug as easy and will stay in 4 cylinder mode easier. Especially since you're probably running 91+ octane, it will have less kr if any with big tires on a stock truck.
So armed with a bruised ego and Google you tried to show me up. Yawn. Funny how you are now an expert. Your original post is still false. It can't anticipate knock, the knock sensor picks up vibration after it happens. No ifs ands or buts. I have tuned about a dozen vehicles, I've owned Hptuners for more than a decade. But I'm sure you're the guy that's done more and seen more than ..... (Insert anybody). Lots of those guys in the internet. I wouldn't let you with a keyboard or wrench anywhere near my vehicles and hope no one else does.
I have a tuned 5.3 and I don't have to give it much gas to go, btw. That's the tune changing the throttle rate as well as timing to make it more responsive. A tuned 4.3 can easily be more responsive than a 6.2. Flat foot it and the 6.2 has more getup, but with LT 33-34" tires a stock 6.2 truck would have it's hands full with a tuned 5.3 on stock 18" wheels.
Oh my god no. For one, it's not a microphone it's a piezocrystal. They can't measure relative combustion volume. They pick up vibration and turn it to electric current. This is then filtered to what is determined to be pre ignition / pre detonation. They are REactive to knock that's already occured. Please don't ever tune anyone else's vehicles.
I believe Kicker makes a plug and play rear subwoofer for Bose trucks. I assume there is a fused 20-30amp 12v hookup? Any info appreciated. Hoping to do one of these small under seat subs that are usually fused at 20amps, I'd like to not run a power wire since it seems like there may be an appropriately sized wire there.
I can only go off what I've read. There is more than one person / company saying due to the design of the stamped arms they are not safe to be used at the 1.8-2.5" lift. The ball joint can separate. In my opinion, unless they're wrong, that makes them required above 1.5.
Now that they have been out for a while you should have no problem putting some miles on a t1xx before you buy. I never drove a 14-17. Put some miles on a 18 and even more on a 19 and ended up with the 18. The ride, quirks, cost cutting and interior of the 19 won't make me look again until a decent update comes out. Next round I will be looking at Ford Chevy though.
You speak the truth, there is more to it than just tire thickness. It's why I avoid LT tires on a 1/2 ton. A good P tire far exceeds what my truck can carry and I don't drive in areas I need the puncture resistance if an LT.
Don't get so defensive, it wasn't meant as a personal attack. It's my opinion big wheels look bad on a truck, sounds like it's yours that big tires look bad on a truck. If you lowered your truck and put it on 22s and use it for work you're in the .1%. Most trucks with 22s are bro'd out with a level kit and mud tire super swampers. Not a scratch in the bed either as the owner doesn't use it. I bet you're in one of those warm states too, if you lived where the temp has 150 degree of fluctuation you're roads would be pretty bad and you may rethink those 22s. The roads I drive don't play well with that setup.
I certainly can. Lowered truck on 22s, big no for me. Smaller wheels need a more aggressive tire to look better though. Not necessarily a MT, just not a small diameter narrow highway tire. Like I said from the very beginning ALL THINGS BEING EQUAL besides wheel diameter the small wheels ride better and offer better mpg/acceleration. My opinion is they look better too. If you go from an 18" LT to a 20" p rated tire, that's not a relevant comparison. I'm no engineer but I do know rubber has more flex than aluminum.
Dude, you're the one back tracking. You went from a hard sidewall LT 20" tire to a soft sidewall low load range 22. Why can't you just admit it when you're wrong? LT tires always ride firmer. The fact it didn't is because you had more rubber, proving my point that rubber is more flexible than aluminum and you will have a better / softer ride by having more rubber everything else being the same. I'm done, we have both proven my point.
Simple? Took the words right out of my mouth. Let's look a little deeper so you're not so simple. Your 295/55/20 is an LT tire with a load rating of 123. 33x12.5r22 has a load range of 114. It's rated to carry 815 fewer lbs. Tell me more. Or tell me if you don't understand why they ride similar. My 20s were 115 load, my 17s are 117. LOL Grasp it yet?
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 121 Members, 1 Anonymous, 2,456 Guests (See full list)
- Blazer Bill
- f8l vnm
- Brian Jones
- Salsa De Piña
- Thomas M. Snyder II
- Chris Gilkerson
- Alan Juden
- Danny Navarro
- Byron Sparrow
- Rob Maerz
- Daryl Z71
- Richard McAlpine
- C. Smith
- Kyle's AT4
- Beer Belly
- Trinidad Barrera