royalkangaroo

It’s funny the the article above mentions the same thing. It’s also unfortunate that the fit and finish of BMWs or Mercedes are a step above these trucks and often with a cheaper price tag. Folks spend $55,000+ on a truck and cant even expect the door panels to close flush?

Should’ve dug a bit more before posting. Looks like a common issue.

Is anyone familiar with adjusting how a truck door closes? The rear passenger door of my 2015 double cab has about a 3/8” gap at the bottom when the door is closed. The drivers side is flush. It’s been like this since day one, but hasn’t bothered me enough to pursue it. I did a quick google search and didn’t find anything too informative. https://i.ibb.co/1RSdSDZ/4524-EE72-CF19-4-D9-B-B3-E3-4-BF4-E4-C83067.jpg https://i.ibb.co/LhhY9s3/0-C09-C05-B-0-EF1-4783-A7-E9-77-E1-ECD11087.jpg

My 2015 Sierra has done this from day 1. Very occasionally, it will fail to pump out fluid for 15-20 seconds. Pump is going, wipers are actuating but no fluid. It’s almost like the lines drain and the pump has to work fluid back up to the squirter. Doesn’t happen enough for me to diagnose.

Anyone familiar with the part number and how to replace the rubber boot on the shift column? Just notice mine was torn tonight, not exactly sure how.

I’m sure you’d see significant improvement. I’ve been in the 20-25mpg range on long trips with my truck. One thing to note is the Toyo 285/55/20s weigh 57 lbs according to their website. Their P275/55/20 in the same style tire is 43 lbs. That’s a decent difference in unsprung weight.

What’s the shipping cost to 05403? And do you have close up pics?

Just an update, dealership checked it out. No soft codes, no vacuum leaks, could not reproduce symptoms.

One other thing - do you store the truck in a warm garage during the winter? I'm a believer of storing my vehicle outside. Less thawing, moisture, and salt activation in my opinion.

I’ve seen better, I’ve seen worse. I bought a 2010 with 33k miles that was in similar shape at the time. It’s all cosmetic on the frame, I had it recoated. You’re right though, if you start from day 1, it works out better. I have a 2015 now with 45k miles that I’ve touched up annually and washed religiously throughout the winter and the frame looks nearly brand new. (My shocks look similar to yours though) As for buying new, I’d say if you love your current truck, clean it up and lift it. It’ll take some work. If you want to spend the cash on a new one, go that route.

I’ve rotated mine with every oil change and they’re wearing very evenly. I’ve got about 20k miles on them, they’re holding up nicely. The noise has gotten significantly louder, however. I have the dealership rotate them, not sure of their method, but I’d hope it’s as the manual shows for procedure.

Thanks - I have an oil change coming up, Ill be sure to mention this. That's essentially the exact same issue I'm having - but it's yet to fully stall.

For the second time in maybe a year, while stopped at a stop light my Sierra 1500 RPMs dipped, and sputtered as the truck struggled to stay running. The whole truck shook like it was about to stall. It's a 2015 with 44k miles on it. I've had it since day one with zero issues. Anyone have any advice? No dash lights came on. My truck normally idles very smoothly, so I'm unsure of this one-off incident. I put a can of Seafoam in the gas tank for good measure.

What HID kit are you using? I have the Morimoto 35w in my 2015 and it’s decent. The real upgrade was installing Rigid SAE fog lights. They provide wicked output and really fill out the light pattern. I’d recommend getting a pair.

I tried this with 1/4 inch rubber, however after about 2 weeks the pieces squeezed out. Maybe inner tube works better? Also doesn't help that my leafs were previously greased.