royalkangaroo

I replaced my stock tires with Duratracs and got about 40k miles out of them. (P265/70/17) -Best looking AT tire, in my opinion. -Quiet for the first 15k miles, after that they got progressively noisier. -Started to wear unevenly. Rotated every oil change (~5k miles), checked alignment, and they still chopped. This probably attributed to the noise. -Performance was okay. Better than stock, but I wasn’t blown away by how they were in the snow. I have a set of BFG KO2s now with about 6k miles on them. Haven’t put them to the test in the snow yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Order both, see which one you prefer, send one back.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, but the reception is incredible, haha! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t speak to completely removing the antenna, however I replaced mine with a 13” https://www.amazon.com/AntennaMastsRus-Compatible-2006-2019-Guaranteed-Engineered/dp/B00SLNED0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=antennamastsrus&qid=1609854383&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1 I also listen to satellite radio 99% of the time, but the FM reception sounds about the same as the long stock one. A friend of mine has a 4” on his truck and it doesn’t look right to me, so I went with one a little longer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks great! $450 to install isn’t bad at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been hemming and hawing over installing a set of Katzkins in my SLE. I’ve got 70k miles on my truck and plan on keeping it for another few years. Seems like a fairly affordable DIY project that comes out nice, especially with a steamer. Anyone install a set themselves? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just an interesting anecdote of the wonders of Fluid Film. I’ve owned my truck since day one with 7 miles on the odometer. While I’ve never fully undercoated my truck with FF due to the mixed reports of its interaction with the factory wax coating on the frame, I’ve simply used rattle cans and coated pretty much everything else underneath, yearly. Including dropping the spare and getting the hoist mechanism as well as the spare itself. Fast forward to a couple months ago, I unfortunately had a flat on the highway. Tossed on the spare and when I got home, gave her a nice scrub down with some APC. After nearly 5 years of weathering and salty Vermont winters, my poor steel spare looks brand new! I believe this stuff is truly magic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would consider “no rust” to be “no visible rust.” Best place to look is any metal seams. Under the door seals, rear tail light seams, or wheel wells behind the liners. All good spots for rust, and you never might see it until it comes through the panel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think you’re all correct, it probably isn’t an issue for half ton pickups. I did find another blurb about mudflaps required for any lifted vehicle. Regardless, it was likely a lie by the dealership just so they could throw on their logo mudflaps. It’s more or the fact that a dealership would carelessly screw into the metal of a brand new truck, especially here in salt country. The more interactions I have with dealerships, the more I realize their incompetence, however. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

State law, at least for rear mudflaps. “No person may operate or cause to be operated any bus, truck, trailer, or semi-trailer upon any highway in this state unless the bus, truck, trailer, or semi-trailer is equipped with suitable metal protectors or substantial flexible flaps behind the rearmost wheels to prevent, as far as practicable, the wheels from throwing dirt, water, or any other materials on the windshields of vehicles following or approaching. The flaps shall be of a type and size as specified by the motor vehicle department.” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, so this is more of a gripe post than anything. However, anyone with body work experience, feel free to chime in. I removed my wheel well liners this weekend to change my spark plugs. And noticed some rust starting on the inner fender lip. The gripe: When I purchased the truck, I told the dealership I wanted a set of molded mudflaps included in the price of the truck. They would not budge, so I decided I’d install some Weathertech no-drill ones myself. I was then told I couldn’t legally drive the truck off the lot without mudflaps, and they would put their own cheap dealership branded ones on. Those of which they crudely attached with self tapping screws. Fast forward to today, these screw holes seem to be the culprit of where the rust started. Partial blame on me for not inspecting sooner, I suppose. The fix: I cleaned up the spot for now and put a healthy coverage of fluid film on until spring; along with the entire wheel wells. Come spring I plan on: 1) grind the area to bare metal 2) metal prep solution? 3) epoxy primer (or rust encapsulator? I should be able to remove all the rust) 4) skim coat of filler 5) sand, seal, paint It’s under the plastic wheel hoop trim, so it doesn’t have to be flawless. I just want to make sure it’s protected for the years to come. I’ve had it from day one, now with 70,000 miles and in excellent shape. The other three corners are much better, this one by far the worst. Let me know what you folks think! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry to hijack this thread. I just replaced mine today and put a new set of wires on as well, just for the heck of it. These are mine at 70k miles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ones from the local store are much better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just picked up a set of AcDelcos from Advance Auto and 7 out of 8 have some form of corrosion on the ground electrode weld. Am I crazy to return them and ask for completely clean ones? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great post! I just had a random misfire in cylinder 5 earlier this week. Was one and done, and hasn’t done it since, however I just picked up all new plugs and wires anyway. Curious to see how mine look at 70k miles.