mjm-1957

Check for a restricted exhaust system.Pull the front oxygen sensors out and try it.

Don't know where you got that information from but thats incorrect. NY has ethanol in high test also. On Long Island we can't by ethanol free gas either.

Get a real scan tool and see what the fuel tank pressure sensor is reading. If that sensor is skewed you can replace everything in the evap system and still have a problem. We change them all the time. Should be reading 0.0 with the engine off and key on. Next start the engine and command the vent solenoid to not venting and the purge solenoid to about 50% and watch what the FTP sensor does. It should slowly start showing a vacuum.If it doesnt move or is not smooth and linear then it should be replaced. If the sensor acts normal then perform a purge and seal test. Get the vacuum in the tank to about 50% and seal the system with the scan tool,should hold vacuum for around 30 seconds with no leakage, if thats normal watch how fast the vacuum bleeds off when you open the vent solenoid, should bleed off fairly quickly to 0. Hope some of this helps.

I can't for the life of me figure out how to take something from service information and post it here. I fix cars for a living and am not too computer savvy.LOL They have diagrams and explanations on the two stage oil pump and AFM relief valve operation but I would be typing all day. HELP

All engines have the same minimum spec according to service information-hot idle [email protected] [email protected] rpm and 33psi @3000rpm These are the LV1,LV3,L83,L86 and L96

Here in NY the charges for the registration are based on whether it is passenger or commercial and how much you register it for. My 2017 Sierra 2500HD gas was $322.50 registered at 9500 lbs with commercial plates for two years.

Have the dealer hook up GDS2 and monitor inputs to the lift gate module and the bcm. Probably going to see something triggering the actuator, such as defective switch or shorted wiring harness causing an unwanted ground.When it is doing that it shouldn't be too difficult to see what is causing it.

Too bad it didnt slip off the blocks right onto one of those scum bags...That really sucks. Sorry that happened to you.

Get a good scan tool and monitor ignition 1 voltage while driving. The ignition switches are a common failure on those vehicles,we use to change one or two a week. If the voltage drops off or is less than charging voltage when running you have an issue. Easy and cheap place to start.Don't use bootleg junk aftermarket switches or you could be installing a future problem for yourself down the road.

How about you see what code is stored in history before you go off on a wild goose chase. Could be anything, steering wheel position sensor, low brake fluid warning, intermittent wheel speed signal etc etc.Right away your pulling the dash apart and checking grounds and replacing the battery.

On your RPO list what is your brake option? And are you sure you have a 454? Most gas engines were 366 or 427.

Send it out to a rebuilder and have it overhauled.

Mine too.

if its a 2003 it has an inline fuel filter by the ABS unit on the rail under the drivers door.

Scan it for codes, maybe a sensor issue or actuator on the way out. Need GDS2 to check for codes.