Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Started as ticking noise 2 days ago, I was afraid it was lifters so parked truck until Monday so I could get it to dealership.

on my way to dealership ticking noise turns to clank clunk awful noise, afraid engine is blown, will find out tomorrow when they check it out. Did I mentioned it’s a 2024 with only 28,800 miles on it? This should not be happening so soon. Anyone else experience this?

Posted
11 hours ago, James McArthur said:

Started as ticking noise 2 days ago, I was afraid it was lifters so parked truck until Monday so I could get it to dealership.

on my way to dealership ticking noise turns to clank clunk awful noise, afraid engine is blown, will find out tomorrow when they check it out. Did I mentioned it’s a 2024 with only 28,800 miles on it? This should not be happening so soon. Anyone else experience this?

Was it using oil and you never checked it? 
 

A good friend of mine runs an oil change shop. It’s the norm he said that people go way way over their oci not the exception. 

Posted

It was not using oil, and I’ve been very picky maintaining my truck, no this issue just happened all of sudden with no warning, oil pressure was normal water temp normal and no check engine lights.

Posted
5 hours ago, No F-bdy Bs said:

My 25' with just 6,900 on it has an oil consumption test underway as we speak. 

 

 

Were you noticing some oil consumption even early on or was there a sudden change and that it started to use oil. Also what oil change mile intervals has been done so far and what oil brand/type has been in the engine when its been using oil.  

Posted

My nephew whom runs his own shop said it was chevys dirty little secret that when 6.6 were manufactured they blocks were out of specs causing a vibration in motor which is why the bearings went out!

he said they won’t own up to it for obvious reasons.

  • Like 1
Posted

The 6.6 gas has been one of the more reliable engines produced lately.  Interested to see what the dealership says but hopefully you're still under warranty so it'll get taken care of. 

Posted
38 minutes ago, James McArthur said:

No oil consumption what so ever, recommended D 5w30 per Chevrolet!

one day lifters rattle the next day rod bearings went out.

 

Have you been doing your own oil changes and if so any particular oil filter brand you have been using. Also within that theme of oil changes was the oil changed just prior to this occurrence or a while back. 

 

I am purely speculating that something mechanical either let go due to a defect and a chain reaction such as a valve dropped after a valve spring broke etc or I suppose there is a possibility that a cam or crank bearing could have turned restricting oil flow and the oil pressure would remain good on the gauge but in reality starving parts of the engine from adequate oil. I guess that remains to be seen if the dealership does a tear down or if they find a mess and determine a new engine gets dropped in and the original engine gets whisked away without a proper look. 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Chuck FB said:

 

 

Were you noticing some oil consumption even early on or was there a sudden change and that it started to use oil. Also what oil change mile intervals has been done so far and what oil brand/type has been in the engine when its been using oil.  

 

I was given 2 "free" oil changes from the dealer when I bought it. 

I had them do the first one at 2059 miles. They used Gm Dexos 5/30. I checked the dipstick a few time. Maybe burned half a qt, maybe. 

Had my 2nd done at the same dealer, same oil at 5,700ish. Didn't seem to use any at that time. I probably checked a few times. 

Got a "Engine oil low, add oil" warning at 6,500, this past Saturday. No oil showing on dipstick. I had not checked it prior given I'd ojly gone abt 750 miles since it was changed. I was literally next door to a different dealership. I didn't take it back to the original dealer because I didn't want to drive it with the dash code (I didn't know how low it was, and didn't want any "You shouldn't have driven it with low oil") and I didn't want to add oil so they could document how low it was.

 

Dealer said it was 2.1qt low. They started the process. Determined there were no leaks (which I knew) Did an oil change. Took pics of dipstick, gave me some paperwork, and I have to bring it back in 1k miles. 

Hope it was a fluke. Hopemaybe  the other dealer didn't put quite enough oil it in last change. I don't want to deal with getting a new engine in a truck with so few miles. 

Edited by No F-bdy Bs
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, James McArthur said:

My nephew whom runs his own shop said it was chevys dirty little secret that when 6.6 were manufactured they blocks were out of specs causing a vibration in motor which is why the bearings went out!

he said they won’t own up to it for obvious reasons.

That's not even remotely true.  There's literally no cases of out of spec 6.6 gas blocks. 

Edited by No F-bdy Bs
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, No F-bdy Bs said:

 

I was given 2 "free" oil changes from the dealer when I bought it. 

I had them do the first one at 2059 miles. They used Gm Dexos 5/30. I checked the dipstick a few time. Maybe burned half a qt, maybe. 

Had my 2nd done at the same dealer, same oil at 5,700ish. Didn't seem to use any at that time. I probably checked a few times. 

Got a "Engine oil low, add oil" warning at 6,500, this past Saturday. No oil showing on dipstick. I had not checked it prior given I'd ojly gone abt 750 miles since it was changed. I was literally next door to a different dealership. I didn't take it back to the original dealer because I didn't want to drive it with the dash code (I didn't know how low it was, and didn't want any "You shouldn't have driven it with low oil") and I didn't want to add oil so they could document how low it was.

 

Dealer said it was 2.1qt low. They started the process. Determined there were no leaks (which I knew) Did an oil change. Took pics of dipstick, gave me some paperwork, and I have to bring it back in 1k miles. 

Hope it was a fluke. Hopemaybe  the other dealer didn't put quite enough oil it in last change. I don't want to deal with getting a new engine in a truck with so few miles. 

 

I think if I am understanding the chain of events properly, you never happened to personally check the oil level right after the second free oil change done at 5700 total truck miles and indeed the big question would be if they totally goofed and shorted you by two quarts if not even over that amount. You will probably have some answers in 1 thousand miles one way or the other, I certainly hope for your sake and the sanity of us L8T owners that the oil change boy never even checked the level after the oil was added. Sad but true, it seems its to ones benefit to double check worked on items if its possible to do shortly after its been performed and as others have stated this engine is sensitive to consistency with its shown oil level depending on slight variable slopes one may park on. I try to park in the same location each time ( I often park in the garage so that's easy ) to check the level after its sat for a good while or overnight. So if anything suddenly shows up as off I would know about it shortly.  

 

 

Edited by Chuck FB
Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, Chuck FB said:

 

I think if I am understanding the chain of events properly, you never happened to personally check the oil level right after the second free oil change done at 5700 total truck miles and indeed the big question would be if they totally goofed and shorted you by two quarts if not even over that amount. You will probably have some answers in 1 thousand miles one way or the other, I certainly hope for your sake and the sanity of us L8T owners that the oil change boy never even checked the level after the oil was added. Sad but true, it seems its to ones benefit to double check worked on items if its possible to do shortly after its been performed and as others have stated this engine is sensitive to constancy with its shown oil level depending on slight variable slopes one may park on. I try to park in the same location each time ( I often park in the garage so that's easy ) to check the level after its sat for a good while or overnight. So if anything suddenly shows up as off I would know about it shortly.  

 

 

Basically all that. 

I THINK I may have checked it at some point after the 2nd change , but wouldn't swear to it. 

Edited by No F-bdy Bs
  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, James McArthur said:

My nephew whom runs his own shop said it was chevys dirty little secret that when 6.6 were manufactured they blocks were out of specs causing a vibration in motor which is why the bearings went out!

he said they won’t own up to it for obvious reasons.

Have him provide you with some facts to back up that outlandish claim. First I’ve heard of that. 

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Pryme said:

Have him provide you with some facts to back up that outlandish claim. First I’ve heard of that. 

Got a feeling someone is confusing the 6.2 for the 6.6.

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...