No F-bdy Bs

I'd go right back to the dealer. If I didn't get satisfaction there, I'd go to a different one. If not there, I'd contact GM. It's under warranty. It's their issue to fix.

A lot of people also forget the old 6spd was pretty good at the torque converter snout wearing into the front of the trans case. Pretty common issue. 6spd was not a perfect trans by any means.

Yeah, some "tech" likely serviced it to the Duramax specs. Probably has the wrong oil in it as well.

I think you'll be happier with the 10spd. Real world issues are actually pretty rare dispite the hype Nate puts out.

I wish more tires were offered with raised, white lettering on one side.

That's honestly the first time I've heard of a 6.6 doing that.

Also, egg shaped crank journals, and flawed designs don't help

Got a feeling someone is confusing the 6.2 for the 6.6.

Basically all that. I THINK I may have checked it at some point after the 2nd change , but wouldn't swear to it.

That's not even remotely true. There's literally no cases of out of spec 6.6 gas blocks.

I was given 2 "free" oil changes from the dealer when I bought it. I had them do the first one at 2059 miles. They used Gm Dexos 5/30. I checked the dipstick a few time. Maybe burned half a qt, maybe. Had my 2nd done at the same dealer, same oil at 5,700ish. Didn't seem to use any at that time. I probably checked a few times. Got a "Engine oil low, add oil" warning at 6,500, this past Saturday. No oil showing on dipstick. I had not checked it prior given I'd ojly gone abt 750 miles since it was changed. I was literally next door to a different dealership. I didn't take it back to the original dealer because I didn't want to drive it with the dash code (I didn't know how low it was, and didn't want any "You shouldn't have driven it with low oil") and I didn't want to add oil so they could document how low it was. Dealer said it was 2.1qt low. They started the process. Determined there were no leaks (which I knew) Did an oil change. Took pics of dipstick, gave me some paperwork, and I have to bring it back in 1k miles. Hope it was a fluke. Hopemaybe the other dealer didn't put quite enough oil it in last change. I don't want to deal with getting a new engine in a truck with so few miles.

My 25' with just 6,900 on it has an oil consumption test underway as we speak.

It make a noticeable difference? I know my truck is a dog from a dead stop, but just disabling Traction Control helps a ton.

Also, does Banks actually make one for the 25'+ models? I can't tell from their website.

I always felt like my 25' needed too much pedal pressure applied to stop normally. Is that a symptom of the factory pads?

I don't understand anyone having a modern HD truck without running boards. Even then they're too effin tall. I'm 6'2, and specifically bought the lowest hanging running boards I could find, and it's still too tall, imo. Buddy at work has a 2500 Zr2 without running boards, and he's 5'6. How?

I've heard a few shops mention that BFGs are good on traction and wear, but are a ****** to balance, and you must constantly rebalance them over their lifetime.

Are you saying stuck rings were the norm before V R&P? As to your 200k valvetrain shot, well it wasn't uncommon for engines to go 300k+ well over 2 decades ago, long before all the niche oils. All without stuck rings and oil burn. You denying that?

, and as if to illustrate my point. When you factor in the same thermostat, the delta between the highest and lowest temp was 5deg. Again,charts. Yes, you can show endless data showing whatever, and you can torture the tests until they produce whatever outcome you want. Ultimately, take 2 correct weight, Dexos oils. Any 2. Do the first oil/filter change at 750mi, the 2nd at 2,000, and every 5,000 thereafter and show me a real world difference to the owner over 250,000mi.

Right. Read what I said. I didn't say there's no difference in OIL. I said, there's no real world difference in what oil you use, provided it's a quality synthetic, with OCI done at the correct time. I'm sure you can pull some down in the weeds readings showing where Xx brand shows Xx ppm @ 100,000mi whereas THIS brand only shows Xx ppm. That's fine if you need a hobby, and engine oil happens to fill that void in your life, but is there any result that shows a noticeable difference in day to day operation of the vehicle for your average owner?

I'm pretty sure everything GM does is for profit. Doesn't change the fact that somehow in 2026, so many people can devote so much mental bandwith to something as simple as engine oil. Go blindly pick any decent synthetic. Dexos or otherwise, change every 5k,and convince me there's a real world difference.

Patiently waiting for a tune for the 24'+ 6.6 Gas.

Depending on how often you make the trip I'd say you're right on the edge, and that's me with the mindset that a person should do everything they can to avoid a diesel. Flipside is if you've got a pile of $, then buy whatever you like. Hell, if I had the cash, I'd have a red badge 6.7 HO powerstroke tomorrow even though I don't tow much over 10k.

Any quality oil is fine, but I don't think I could find a reason to NOT run a Dexos oil with the ease of availability,and basically same price as any other synthetic.

Bunch of meh. At the VERY least, I'd hope Allison would tell GM to step aside, and fix the Valve Body issue once and for all, just to get their reputation back.