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About mrjulian416

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  1. 3.5 amps is about the limit of what the bed outlet can run (assuming a worst-case power factor: amps x volts = watts, so 3.5 x 110 = 385). Most small-end electric pressure washers are over 10amps, so highly doubtful. This is also why most corded power tools won't work off that outlet. Circular saws are usually 10-13 amps. A 3/8" drill might work, they can be as low as 3 amps.
  2. I'm 6' tall and still getting used to not seeing much in front. Takes some practice to split the parking spot lines once you're between them. To me it's part of the fun of driving one of these, I love the truck ('21 2500 SLT). What's really fun is when I get back in my '00 1500 and it feels like driving a golf cart.
  3. Sounds like a bad switch or loose connector/wire in the harness(es). I would guess most likely a switch issue... either dash or one/both of the tailgate ones. As you drive around the contact closes and as soon as you put it in park the truck sees the switch as "pressed".
  4. I have now successfully joined the club. A big thanks to Bill (blamkin86) for the initial write up, as well as to the guys who contributed other tips along the way. Without that detail, this would have been a far longer, and more "cussful", effort. Here are my observations, tips, tricks: --I ended up removing the fuse panel and air vent assembly just as bill described in his initial posts. It seemed like if I only had a third hand I could pull the bottom edge of the kick panel towards the seat and have enough room to get a ratchet on the mounting screws for the aux fuse box. Since I was not replacing the kick panel, I took a short cut by only removing the first two screws and popping the two left-most clips of the panel. I then hooked a ratcheting strap to the bottom center edge of the kick panel, ran it to the drivers headrest, and was able to carefully pull the bottom edge of the kick panel back far enough to get the new aux fuse/relay box mounted. I still had to do this by feel, but there was then sufficient space for my fingers and the ratchet to get to the mounting screws. -- With the kick panel still largely in place, I connected the harness to the switches through the opening where the drivers fuse panel was. The other two connections were made from underneath, lying on my back on the floor. --I had bought four 10' coils of TXL wire in blue, brown, gray, and yellow (Wire Barn TXL wire). I taped these four wires to the 10g feed wire before pushing through the firewall grommet. A little wrestling with the foam under the dash, back and forth pushing from above and pulling from below, I successfully got the 10g feed in and connected, as well has having the four switched lines running back out to the engine compartment. --I used heat shrink crimp connectors on the four leads under the dash. Just hang some hand towels as a backstop when using the heat gun. Under the dash, tuck everything up and wire tie it out of the way. --In the engine compartment I ran the 4 lines through some split loom from the firewall grommet to the second battery location, taped off the ends for now, and wire tied it into a neat coil. (Mine's a gas engine, no second battery.) -- My truck also lacked the holes along the cowling to use the plastic push rivets to mount the feed wire across the engine. I did not drill new holes. I just wire tied the new line to the existing loom running across the cowling. You can see this existing line in Bill's pics. --Having now dealt directly with it, I am even more dumbfounded that GM does not install this stuff on the assembly line. Without the excellent write ups from Bill, this would have been a total PIA. With the write ups, it was only a minor PIA, but still at some point the truck was on an assembly line, with easy access to all connections/components. The option price is the same as what the competition charges, yet somehow the competition can completely install these switches/components and leave you with switched leads dead-ended in the engine compartment. No excuse for GM to do it this way.
  5. The injector failed due to the coking? Or was it coked up because it wasn't operating correctly?
  6. So I have a '21 2500 SLT CCSB. Just over 1k miles and looking at "trip 2", which was reset when I took delivery at 21 miles, it's showing 13.4 mpg. This is a mix of highway and grocery getting over those thousand miles. My best 50 mile average is 16.9, which was mostly highway, and well behaved city. If I look at the 20 mile average when driving around town, and launching at green lights like someone else is buying the gas, it's about 12.3. Haven't towed yet. Bottom line, in mixed use it's about the same as my '00 1500 SLE 5.3 ECSB. Maybe 1mpg less. If I need to just run an errand in town, I take the '00. The 6.6 gas 2500 does not like stopping and going. If it can stay rolling it's in the 16-18 range unloaded. Cruising on flat highway at 75mph I'm seeing about 18 instantaneous mpg. How you drive it has a huge affect. Soft on the pedal vs hammer down makes a big difference.
  7. The missing screws are just M4 "body screws". I picked up 2 at my local Lowes, 20mm long. They were in one of those blue drawers in the hardware aisle... I think they were $1.25 each. You should be able to find them at any hardware or auto parts store... or the dealer.
  8. You could go in the back of the connector with a micro screwdriver and release the pin, but then you'd still have the wire crimped to the individual pin. If you want to preserve the ability to reconnect the green/blue, I would cut it a few inches back from the connector to allow enough length for a butt splice at some future point. Personally, even if i needed to run power to headache rack light bar, I'd probably route a line from from aux switch, through the firewall, under the truck and up the rack, rather than drilling a hole in the roof of the cab to find the other end of the green/blue.
  9. The center line of the receiver opening is about 23" off the ground.
  10. This pic is of the harness connector from the upfitter aux fuse box. According to the wiring diagram from GM, this "green/blue stripe" wire is the one controlled by switch #5. The other end of that wire on through the connector and body harness is dead-ended somewhere near the 3rd brake light. Snip this one (at your own risk) from the connector under the dash and you should have your 5th line.
  11. Inside the cover of fuse/relay box you installed, there are two 5-amp fuses on the left (drivers) side in the installed position. The one towards the rear of the truck (top one in the picture) controls switches 1 and 2. The one towards the front of the truck (bottom one in the picture) controls switches 3 and 4. Both of these fuses have an alternate position available. As they came from the factory I believe these fuses are in the "ACC must be on" position. If you pull one out and shift it to the slot towards the passenger side (red arrows in the picture), the controlled switches will now be in the "always on" position. If I am mistaken, it's simply the opposite... the default is always on and moving them will make them ACC-on-only. But these are the fuses you move to make the change.
  12. That is true. The only physical difference is the sticker, the truck is the same.
  13. Speaking from direct experience in another industry about this global chip shortage... it's impacting everything, PCs, phones, consumer electronics, automotive, everything. I think it will be mid-summer before chip supply normalizes. Then another month or so for tier 1-2 suppliers to build top level components/assemblies and ship to vehicle manufacturers.
  14. Mine finally arrived. Ordered 11/18, picked it up today. Forgot just how big these things are from my test drive.
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