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mrjulian416

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About mrjulian416

  • Birthday January 31

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  • Name
    Mike
  • Location
    Raleigh NC
  • Drives
    2021 GMC Sierra 2500 SLT CCSB 4x4

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  1. Technically.. maybe. Easy to draw that conclusion though. In 90%+ of my driving (and probably most people's), the available ratios of the 10 vs the 6 wont make enough difference in practical application for me to conclude I should've waited for the 10 speed. The Ford 10 speed typically skips 2 and 4 (and sometimes 6) in unloaded, normal acceleration. When towing or heavily loaded, sure the 10 speed can be an advantage.
  2. Because of the "need to replace the whole thing so they'd better last forever" aspect of the LED headlights, I bought and installed this set of precut PPF to help avoid scratches, chips, etc LED Headlight PPF kit Edit: Oh and I think the forward lighting brightness is just fine. But when turning corners, the side illumination is non existent. That's my problem with the stock LEDs.
  3. True regarding DEF and maintenance costs. I was just thinking 6-8mpg vs. 12+ for similar loads. Many hot-shot guys try to stay under the 26k total weight, in which case gas could be a viable option.
  4. The problem with hot-shotting with a gas truck would be 1.5-2x the fuel costs of a diesel (roughly). I agree with Epsilon about the 10 speed. These days people seem to think a 10 speed has some magical power. If you look at real world mileage figures for the Ford 7.3/10sp and the GM 6.6/6sp, they are essentially the same when you compare loaded vs. loaded, city vs. city, hwy vs. hwy. But hey, 10>6. I will admit a 10 speed should certainly do a better job of keeping the engine at its ideal speed when towing/hauling heavy (like pulling up a mountain in CO). But again, that's not something I need to do everyday. I use ad-block here too. Otherwise.... sheesh. It's too bad too, this forum has one of the better forum structures/organization (T1, separate from K2, separate from GMT900, separate from HD, etc). SilveradoSierra lumps everything together in "engine" or "transmission" or "suspension" etc.
  5. There's not a lot of traffic in this subform so I thought I'd share a nice, real world story about the gas 2500HD ('21 CCSB SLT). In late Oct a friend of mine bought a new track loader for use in managing his forestry property (ASV... 'nice'). He was without a HD truck at the time so asked for my help with picking it up from the dealer. Basically a 9000lb machine, on a 3500lb flatbed (not gooseneck), with a ~2000lb cutter head. Drove about 90 minutes from his place to the dealer, country roads and interstate, central NC, flat and some rolling hils. Loaded things up, strapped things down, pulled out. I can honestly say, at max rating I was expecting the truck to have to work harder than it did. Not at all saying "you didn't know it was back there", but I was surprised at how well it handled a max conventional tow load. Shifts were smooth, not harsh. It accelerated fine when merging onto the interstate, didn't sound like it was screaming at redline. Once on the highway rolling 70mph, it was solid, smooth, planted. There was power enough to accelerate into the left lane to get around slower traffic, etc. Slowing and stopping was uneventful. The trailer had electric brakes which of course played a big part, and the built in brake controller just worked, no drama. 90 minute drive home, that last 20 of which was on country roads. The trailering app showed a combined round trip mileage for this "guest trailer" of 8.1 mpg. I get similar mileage pulling my 9k boat and trailer, which seems about rights since a boat with a t-top is a much larger sail than a track loader. Moral of my story... if you need to pull heavy, the 6.6 gas will get it done. I admit if you pull heavy all the time, diesel is probably the right answer. But as a guy with his first 3/4 ton truck, I continue to be amazed that the experience of towing, even at max rating, is so much better than any half-ton (at any weight).
  6. Actually that's low. Normal non loaded temp is around 195
  7. Simplest/cheapest way to do this would be to use an aftermarket ACR with a kit like this: Silverado/Sierra Dual Battery Kit Then route the new battery to whatever accessories you need to power. The GM junction block and cover (item #1 in the hand drawn diagram above) would certainly clean up the install of such a kit nicely.
  8. V155 update just got pushed to my truck over the air today. It's a '21 2500HD, bought at the end of January.
  9. So to answer my own original question... I decided to go ahead and do the treatment using CRC GDI cleaner, in conjunction with my 10k oil change this weekend. Here's what I did: You need to hold the engine at 2000 rpm while introducing the cleaner through a vacuum line. I rigged up a piece of 2x6 lumber to fit between the gas pedal and the lower right bracket of the driver's seat. Using the power seat adjustment it was easy to get the engine speed set and "locked" at 2000 rpm, without a second person having to hold their foot steady. The easiest accessible vacuum line is the PCV tube that exits the valve cover right by the oil fill cap. Once I had the high idle set, I disconnected this tube at the valve cover, inserted the wand from the can of cleaner and started spraying it in. I did 1 second bursts at a time, maybe 1 second on, 2 seconds off. The CRC can works upside down which was important given the orientation of the PCV tube. While spraying the stuff in, the engine never stumbled, slowed, or showed any signs of "not operating normally". It took about ~5-7 mins to get the entire can in. (Pro Tip: take your watch off before you do this- stainless steel watch band gets pretty hot when suspended in the fan-driven, high-volume air flow coming off the radiator.) Can empty, I reattached the PCV tube to the valve cover, blipped the throttle to 3500rpm a couple of times using the gas pedal (per the directions) and shut it down to 'heat soak' for an hour (per the directions). After an hour, started it up and drove it on the freeway for ~15 mins (per directions). At no point was there heavy white smoke from the exhaust, not during the treatment or during the post-treatment drive. The CEL did not come on at any point. Returned home, put it on ramps and changed the oil/filter. Done. So... very simple to do provided you have a 2x6 (or an assistant) and a step stool (to reach anything under the hood). Does it work, or is it $13 worth of snake oil? Time will tell. But now that I know it's this easy, I plan to do this going forward every 10k, changing oil/filter every 5k. In the scheme of things, it can't hurt and much of what I've found online indicates the stuff won't clean a fouled engine after 100k, but it likely helps when used proactively/preventatively.
  10. I stand corrected. Not sure what I was doing that last time I shifted to L, but just now it behaves like the table says.
  11. Well, I'll concede to what that chart says, but at 70mph it sure didn't rev like it dropped two gears.
  12. At higher speeds it stays in the gear it's in when you shift to L. You can then drop that gear by hitting the "-" button, but only if the computer agrees you will not over rev by doing so.
  13. Take a look at Timbren. No air, no springs/linkages, no real affect on unloaded ride. I used them on my '00 SLE and when towing at max rating the affect was amazing. No sway, no excessive squat. When unloaded you only knew they were there when you hit a decent bump at speed, and that was just a quick 'jounce' as the rear suspension flexed.
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