mrjulian416

This is good info/detail. Thank you for laying it out.

ISO-9001 certified means they have a process and they follow it... doesn't mean it's a good process.

Can't we all just get along...

1500's only for the service mode, and I think that is only for the parking brake shoe. You will need a bi-directional scan tool to reset the brake wear indicator (and new wear sensors, they are a wear-out part as the pad thins). Other than that, nothing special. I did both fronts and rears on my '21 2500 to get rid of the dammmm squealing from the factory pads.

And then 5 years from now, a law firm pockets 66% of the funds and each owner gets a check for $28

Unfortunately you probably did piss away that money due to marketing and internet forums. Catch cans, while they do something, don't really do anything to prevent valve buildup in DI engines. I've posted it on here before, there was an actual independent engineering test/study done and the empirical evidence shows blow-by is not the source of valve deposits. It's primarily due to exhaust gas reversion caused by the variable valve timing which is done to create EGR flow to improve emissions. This happens mostly at light load and with cooler engine temps (aka short trips). Your fire suppression guy is hauling ass on the highway all the time, so he's not operating in that condition most of the time. Yes, a catch can does stop some amount of oil mixed with a larger amount of water vapor, but it won't affect the formation of valve deposits to any real degree. Having said that, I won't tell anyone not to use a can. If it makes you feel better to use one, by all means use one. It can't hurt... unless you forget to empty it and the engine sucks in a big enough slug of water.

Perfect summary of these things.

Ahhh.. adding clearance makes sense. I was going to ask how you'd deal with the quart of fluid that would end up on top of the plate if you pulled that plug with the plate in place.

The new GMC Speilcoog 1500. Deona trim level. From the exhaust design, it's probably that new twin-engine format the AI's have been botting about.

At almost 5 years and 55k miles, frame and diff are still black and waxy. I lived in the "north" for my first 35 years. I'm never moving back.

Carbon fiber/ceramic. I just did a pad swap. Still did the recommended pad break-in/burnish per Powerstop's directions.

I ended up putting power stop pads on all four corners. Left the stock rotors. It's been silent ever since.

With the stock coolant thermostat of 190F, there have been discussions on this forum about what that means for transmission fluid temps. With water temps that high there is only so much the transmission cooler can do. I'm now seeing easily available, lower temp thermostats. Even Autozone now offers 180F, 174F and 160F options for the L8T. 160F seems pretty low. But how low could you go without causing unintended problems? Years ago when I was an engineer for a diesel engine manufacturer, our concerns with "too low" water temps was fuel dilution of the oil, excess soot generation, increased emissions from poor combustion. Other than soot generation, are they the same concerns with gas engines? If you wanted to cool things off a bit, 180? or 174?, or .....?

But, it doesn't do anything. Stock is fine. Seems like a waste of money. I kid, I kid

I've been web searching for this same thing lately. Fortunately I'm not in a hurry, but I was looking to find the "heavier duty" options out there as a possible preventive measure. What I've found is not much. Most options are high-stall converters for race applications. There is some info on the Sonnax web site, but their stuff seems to be all upgraded rebuild components for converters. The directions of which start with "cut the converter open"... beyond my capabilities.