Tx_Bowtie

I called the two closest dealers one said it was not, and the other said probably not, but they would try. I was not willing to put $600.00 on a try. Either way, its done and I know its done right.

Front View feed the lines back in from the front and connect to the cooler, then go underneath and bolt on the block and connect the sensor. Add some oil and drink some beer. There may be an easier way to complete the job, and I'm sure a lift would help, but its not that bad and saved some cash for upgrades.

This is the path of the lines, between the motor mounts, engine, and cross member. It is a Chinese puzzle to get them out. I found that if you remove the stud that holds the line to the block they will come straight out the front view from driver side

My truck had the oil cooler lines fail at 44,****** mi, luckily i found the drops in the driveway before it was catastrophic. The dealer said not under power train warranty due to "not a moving part", so I bought the lines for 130.00. It is a pain and very messy, but not too bad. BTW lighter fluid removes oil stains without scrubbing. first I removed the inner wheel liner on the passenger side, now i could see the connections to the cooler. Upper is accessible from the top. Be careful not to lose the clips, new lines reuse them Then I disconnected the block at the oil filter adapter and sensor The rubber lines in the middle do allow some movement, but not much, so I decided to remove the bumper for a direct shot.

Found mine leaking, luckily hasn't blown out. Just because it has the inspection marks doesn't mean your safe. Out of warranty, so bought the lines and am halfway through the repair.

It always changes with the light, from blue to grey and dark at night.

34 psi here. Rides good and even wear.

Snapped a quick pic while she was clean!

Looks much cleaner and they are hard to see from 10' away

I don't like the look of the caps, and definitely don't like the mud flaps/splash guards. I found a wrap that is close to the color of my truck, also should protect against chips. Whole thing took 30 mins, behind front tire and in front of rear tire.

35x11.50

Quick shot with the Can Am headed to shoot some clays.

I cut the white wire off at the relay and tapped an ign hot fuse in the cab, now the switch only lights up when the ignition is on.

No spacers, have about 1/4" clear at the UCA.

I would think its drive-line, since I have no vibration with the shims in and have run factory and 35" tires.