Having dip 3 up does not do anything if one and two are down.
The pictures were of my original install. I have since switched green to green and believe it sounds a little better. (I mentioned this in an update to this thread) Phase is not an exact science in a car. Especially when you are only dealing with 0 or 180. -Eli
Sounds like your amp is faulty. Phase would have nothing to do with it. Mine never cuts out.
So how did it turn out?
it does. You still want to use the crossover in the kicker amp with switches 4,5 and 6 in the “up”position. If you really want to know the science behind it you can PM me.
Those are the microphones for Bluetooth. No ANC that I know of in the T1 trucks. I found myself with 10 days of free time on my hands so I busted out the laptop today and did some measuring. I also measured with the phase switched going to the kicker amp input. I originally wired it using GMs color codes for positive and negative. Guess what? It sounds better and measures better with the input phase switched. So…. Bose sub green wire to green input on kicker and Bose sub blue wire to orange input on kicker. I am running the eq at +4, -2, +12. I listened for about two hours at high volume to lots of different music. IMO this is as good as this system is going to get with these components. I’d be interested to hear from others who have tried this. Maybe tomorrow I will fix the rattle in my drivers door. -Eli
It is "sort" of legal and actually tows extremely well. Lots of people recreational double tow. Most states have length limits. I am a few feet over in MI but usually only do this once a year to a site that is 35 miles away. The third trailer follows exactly in the tire path of the 5th wheel. Now, some states allow you to double tow behind a travel trailer. That is something I would never want to do because of the sway factor. -Eli
They go in this order from lowest to highest. There are no other "combinations". all down, one up, one and two up, all three up. If you are worried about phase issues, hook it up the way you think it should be and listen to it. Then switch the wires. Leave it the way it sounds best to YOU. I left the factory sub hooked up. -Eli
I started with the single bottom spacer. I then added the 1/2" top spacer for a total of 1". I had super springs in the rear that raised the back end some.
Update to my update. I was running my “bass” eq at -2. This seemed to take a bit of the soundstage and mid bass out of the front. I pulled the kicker amp and out switch number 1 down. So 1,2 and 3 are all down. I am now running the bass eq at +2 and things sound even better. My personal settings are +2, -2, and +12. I also measured the sub channel. There is useable output at 30hz. The signal is still there at 20hz but the output is down over 12db. This sub is not designed to play that low. One of these days if I am extremely bored I will pull out my good measuring equipment and plot a response curve. -Eli
Sorry. Yes. Passenger side. You have to pop the side of the console off. The wires run up right behind that metal console bracket. -Eli
Who's Online 29 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,778 Guests (See full list)
- Adam Galardo
- mohamed fingerprint
- Steve Hersley
- Bryan Tarrant
- BO JANGLES
- Alfonso barajas