Tjeli

Having dip 3 up does not do anything if one and two are down.

The pictures were of my original install. I have since switched green to green and believe it sounds a little better. (I mentioned this in an update to this thread) Phase is not an exact science in a car. Especially when you are only dealing with 0 or 180. -Eli

Sounds like your amp is faulty. Phase would have nothing to do with it. Mine never cuts out.

So how did it turn out?

it does. You still want to use the crossover in the kicker amp with switches 4,5 and 6 in the “up”position. If you really want to know the science behind it you can PM me.

Those are the microphones for Bluetooth. No ANC that I know of in the T1 trucks. I found myself with 10 days of free time on my hands so I busted out the laptop today and did some measuring. I also measured with the phase switched going to the kicker amp input. I originally wired it using GMs color codes for positive and negative. Guess what? It sounds better and measures better with the input phase switched. So…. Bose sub green wire to green input on kicker and Bose sub blue wire to orange input on kicker. I am running the eq at +4, -2, +12. I listened for about two hours at high volume to lots of different music. IMO this is as good as this system is going to get with these components. I’d be interested to hear from others who have tried this. Maybe tomorrow I will fix the rattle in my drivers door. -Eli

It is "sort" of legal and actually tows extremely well. Lots of people recreational double tow. Most states have length limits. I am a few feet over in MI but usually only do this once a year to a site that is 35 miles away. The third trailer follows exactly in the tire path of the 5th wheel. Now, some states allow you to double tow behind a travel trailer. That is something I would never want to do because of the sway factor. -Eli

They go in this order from lowest to highest. There are no other "combinations". all down, one up, one and two up, all three up. If you are worried about phase issues, hook it up the way you think it should be and listen to it. Then switch the wires. Leave it the way it sounds best to YOU. I left the factory sub hooked up. -Eli

No Rubbing.

I went with 295/65 20s. -Eli

I started with the single bottom spacer. I then added the 1/2" top spacer for a total of 1". I had super springs in the rear that raised the back end some.

Update to my update. I was running my “bass” eq at -2. This seemed to take a bit of the soundstage and mid bass out of the front. I pulled the kicker amp and out switch number 1 down. So 1,2 and 3 are all down. I am now running the bass eq at +2 and things sound even better. My personal settings are +2, -2, and +12. I also measured the sub channel. There is useable output at 30hz. The signal is still there at 20hz but the output is down over 12db. This sub is not designed to play that low. One of these days if I am extremely bored I will pull out my good measuring equipment and plot a response curve. -Eli

Please do.

Sorry. Yes. Passenger side. You have to pop the side of the console off. The wires run up right behind that metal console bracket. -Eli

Sold.

I can measure it if you want but my guess is that there is no high pass on the sub channel. The Bose sub is a sealed design that has a natural roll off of almost 24db per octave below its tuning frequency. (Which I believe to be around 50Hz). There really wouldn’t be a need to set a high pass or “ subsonic filter” for a sub like that. With all the being said, to my somewhat trained ear the channel will reproduce at LEAST down to 30hz. This is lower than 95% of the music spectrum. like I said in my original post…… I am not into hard core car audio. I just like my music to not sound like crap when I get in one of my vehicles. The mod that I outlined in my original post was almost like a breath of fresh air after I did it. Everything just sounded “better”. YMMV

there’s more than one SVS in my main system.

I want to link a thread I started that has some information that people are looking for here. Eli -

Hey Everyone, I'm posting this in this forum because it is specific to T1 trucks but the same principle can be applied to other years. First of all I do consider myself an audiophile. Not so much in vehicle systems but I don't want to add up how much time and money I have spent over the last 30 or so years searching for the perfect, limitless, balanced sound in my home systems. If you would like to know what I run at home you can PM me. Now on to the point. I had some free GM accessory money to use up so I decided to give the Kicker sub upgrade a try. It sounded "ok" and did make quite a bit of bass. I would seem to get it dialed in for one type of music and then it would sound muddy and bloated on a different type. It was also very heavy in the upper mid bass. In case anyone was wondering what the DIP switches do for SURE on the Kicker amp here you go. (I measured them) Switch 1,2 and 3 are gain. There are 4 settings from all 3 down to all 3 up. Switch 4 is the remote turn on selection. Switch 5 turns the crossover on or off. Switch 6 adjusts the slope of the crossover from 24db (on) to 12db (off). I firmly believe that the way Kicker ships these is the proper setting for our trucks. (1,4,5 and 6 up and 2 and 3 down) One thing that really bothered me about the install of the Kicker sub is that they are pulling their input signal from the right front speaker only. Does the Bose system have a high pass roll off programmed into that channel? What about music that has bass dedicated to the left channel only? What happens when you start to overdrive that channel in the Bose amp? Say what you will about Bose but one thing they do well is "tuning" a system in a vehicle so that it sounds good at all volume levels to the majority of people. Read that sentence again. This is all done with a LOT of eq, monitoring the amp channels for compression and clipping and attenuating certain frequency ranges at higher volume levels. The result is a system that plays loud and sounds "decent" for the majority of consumers while staying within the budget given to them by the auto manufacturer. Enough rambling. After a bunch of digging I found the wires that run to the factory Bose sub. I tapped these for the input to the Kicker amp. To my ears it sounds 100 times better. Much more balanced at all volume levels and with all types of music. It is cleaner and hits harder with less overhang. It also plays bass from both channels now. I really have to recommend this to anyone that has the Kicker sub upgrade. Hit me up if you have questions. -Eli

The floor mat is cut and holds the foot of my ARB mount. Its not physically mounted to the floor but it does not move.

I only use it if I am out of the truck. I have an ARB airline that I plug in if I need to use it for something. -Eli

They look good too.

mine is also in the middle of three height positions. It can go higher if need be.

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