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About wingsaa

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  1. Here's my result at just over 54k miles on my 2016 Yukon XL Denali with a can on from 200 miles new...
  2. Hey guys. Bumping an old thread here as I wanted to share some information on the topic... nothing scientific just a real-world sample. So I put an Elite Engineering E2-X catch can on my 2016 L86 Yukon XL Denali when I bought it new... can went on around 300 miles in. I did not install the clean side separator. I used Mobil1 0w20 Annual Performance and M1-113A filter... changed the oil and filter every 4k miles (don't flame me for wasting money). I've recently switched over to Amsoil Signature full synthetic 0w20 and Amsoil filter as well. Should also note, I've been running a tune and have had DOD disabled from day 1. Okay, details out of the way, I took my intake manifold off this past weekend as the curiosity got the best of me and I wanted to see what the valves looked like. Behold the results. Note, the valves got cleaner as you worked you way to the rear of the engine. I should confirm, I'm right at 54,500 miles. Curious what you all think. Just wanted to share this use case from a vehicle that has basically had a can on it from the start as the only owner. I was pretty tired from the gymnastics session in and out of the engine bay so apologies the pictures aren't professional. was having trouble holding a light, my phone and not end up falling out on to the garage floor
  3. Okay I had to check... it was annoying me. Per pgamboa it does stop on the release of the unlock button of the fob and then you can hold the unlock button again to drop it the rest of the way. It doesn't "vent" on the close however. It is full close on the press and hold of the lock button on the fob.
  4. So this does work well for the lighting. I did this for my windshield tint and it kept them from being on basically all the time. The only thing I would caution is it does seem to impact the automatic temperature climate control. This may be different from pickup to SUV but I can confirm that in my Yukon Denali this sensor is also part of the temperature sensor as well. I started to notice that the auto fan would be on more on cooler days after the truck would be sitting out and warmer in the vehicle vs actual outside temp. I believe the white goop in the sensor actually helps to control the rapid temp fluctuations. Think of it like skin or insulation. At any rate, I bought another sensor so I can have two... one with the gel and one w/o. I've gone lighter on the windshield tint and gone back to the stock sensor.
  5. Little late to the reply and have been promising Chris a post for the work. I had the HMI unlocked and BCM spec programming done on my 2016 Yukon XL Denali. I can't say enough about the support through this process. Chris answered all my questions (and I had a fair amount) without hesitation and no delay. They performed the work and had a quick tun around on both modules. Everything worked as expected and couldn't have been easier. I now have the unlocked HMI... mainly for the video in motion function for watching the fire tv, etc. The BCM spec programming is pretty cool as well. mainly for me was having a legit capability to have the fogs on with highs as well as the intellibeam still being functional. It's nice to be able to vent the windows as well with the key fob. Overall... I couldn't be happier. Top notch service and communication from start to finish. Now I just need to figure out getting the wire powered so I can turn on the backup camera while in motion. If it's something you're on the fence about... do it! I know Pgamboa did an in depth review however, feel free to ping me with any questions.
  6. Y'all need to check the welds in the area I posted. I had one spot weld that didnt exist. I spread it... put a fiber gasket between and then stuck some jb weld in the seam and clamped it for a day then painted and put the rubber seal back. Tick is 100% gone for a year now. The other place you can apply some fiber tape for good measure is where the door harness connector rests in that pillar. You'll notice it rattles. Basically, unplug the harness and then remove the female socket connector from the pillar and apply some fiber tape or whatever so the plastic doesnt move in the slot. But the ticking is most definitely the welds. Guarantee you have at least one that's not welded. It's obvious when you see it... there's a dimple but no weld. When the temp changes the metal expands or contracts. Go check it out and let me know if you have questions. Glad to help where I can. Btw... check the rear pillars if you have the suv... I had to fix that as well. The rear is a different location but you basically follow the procedure I posted and you'll be fine. Here's some crappy photos but may help... -First two pics are of the location of the missing weld on the sandwiched outer and inner sheet metal -third pic is where I tapped in a plastic wedge to open the gap a bit and insert a fiber gasket piece -last pic is with the gasket inserted and wedge removed Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  7. Black mirror sold. Still have the silver mirror available. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  8. Sale pending. If it falls through I'll update. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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