All you need is the canister and the 1/2” to 3/8” adapter. The canister comes with a check valve; it’s a 90 degree fitting that connects into the large port on the canister. There’s a check valve already at the booster and the PCV valve is a check valve so you’re covered. Pick up some constant tension hose clamps (or similar) and you’re good to go.
I’m in Michigan too. The dealer should still be able to repair your vacuum pump and perform recall service. I believe that qualifies as a critical service since it’s a safety item on your vehicle and you need your vehicle to get food, supplies, etc... might be worth a call if you haven’t already. I wouldn’t use an electric vacuum pump again. It constantly ran and struggled to keep up. Mine weren’t cheap pumps either. Another consideration is that if you have any problem with your electrical system, the pump might not function. Obviously a problem with the electrical system is concerning in and of itself. I had a low voltage situation about 3 months ago. While running the truck with a lot of load on the alternator, it would shut the truck off when I executed a low speed turn (increased load due to electric steering assist). Definitely wouldn’t want to lose brakes because of it too. Before you remove your mechanical pump, make sure you have the two screws that block off the oil galleries in the block. Super simple install, thread locker is already on them. I can’t remember the GM part number for them but they’re like $5 for the pair. Also, you can still order a vacuum reservoir from Summit and have it delivered to your house. The canister they offer comes with everything you need (not the hose), including the one way check valve. I think mine was like $35.
It should but confirm it on your own before running it. I’ve had absolutely no problems and think my brakes perform better compared to stock. I used to run out of brake assist briefly when applying my brakes multiple times in a row (slow speed maneuvers requiring repeated braking). Now, that’s pretty much unheard of and way better than the mechanical or electric pumps. I think the reservoir is a big help and would probably be a good idea even for the guys running the mechanical pump. Obviously, you really need to be smart about this because it’s your braking system. Make sure you’ve got a check valve on the line between where you spliced into your catch can’s outlet line and the reservoir can. The brake booster already has a check valve where the line connects to the booster. Be sure to check that the valve is installed in the correct direction. I know it sounds obvious, but it’s an easy mistake to make (which I did) so just be smart and double check everything.
Assuming I were to purchase a custom instrument cluster/gauge faceplate, is it possible to change what data channels are displayed on each of the analog gauges? For example, could I reprogram the four small gauges above the speedo and tach to display wide band AFR, vacuum-boost via MAP sensor, trans temp, etc...? (I know I’m mixing channels that are normally monitored by the ECM with aftermarket channels... just wondering if any of it’s possible) Also, assuming my tachometer gauge faceplate had the appropriate numbering and hash marks, could the needle be reprogrammed to display values above 6,000 rpm? I’m specifically interested in the analog gauges on non-Denali clusters. Thanks for any help and info you guys can provide.
I can tell you from first hand experience that after messing with my tune and unwittingly putting the wrong numbers in just one box, I damn near blew up my trans and bounced the truck off the rev limiter repeatedly. After significant time data logging and going through the steps of diagnosing the problem, I was certain it was a hardware issue so I priced out and began preparing for a trans rebuild. As a last ditch effort, I loaded a tune that was known to be good and wouldn’t you know it, my problems all went away. You may be onto something regarding the emissions regulations driving the desire to lock everything up. Perhaps protecting intellectual property has something to do with it too. As far as I can tell from the press release when Derive Systems (Bully Dog/SCT) got smoked by the EPA-DOJ last year, the only thing they did different than everyone else, is they advertised their product as being able to defeat/bypass emissions systems. The EPA hit them so hard, they had to reduce their fine because Derive proved they couldn’t pay it. Part of the agreement required Derive to eliminate any ability of their handheld tuners to cause a vehicle to come out of compliance with the Clean Air Act. This also included updating the software used by speed shops to create custom tunes for customers, so that the speed shops couldn’t cause a vehicle to come out of compliance via a custom tune even if they wanted to do so. When I contacted an OEM supercharger supplier about turning off AFM in a vehicle after installing their blower with their included calibration, they said they couldn’t make any changes whatsoever to the calibration since that’s what was certified as compliant. When I asked them to recommend a shop that literally could just go into the calibration and turn off AFM, they told me they couldn’t recommend anyone since that would be helping me to defeat an emissions controlled device. I hate to say it, but the EPA-DOJ know that the only way to get some compliance is to pressure the supplier, not the consumer. They would quickly deplete their resources chasing all of the Joe Dirts roaming around. Also, nobody cares if Joe Dirt got fined two grand for emissions violations and the news wouldn’t cover the story. Now, fine the supplier a million dollars based on what the customers do with their products and well, you’ll get a lot of news coverage, a lot of people taking about it and a supplier that won’t ever risk getting hit that hard again. Word spreads fast and suppliers who were never even mentioned or investigated will suddenly be making changes to assure their not the next news story. All that said, I would like to know if the total sum of non-compliant vehicles would equal even one average sized factory that produces petroleum or coal based emissions. When I studied this years ago, the numbers weren’t even close. Industrial emissions DOMINATED emissions production exponentially compared to the small blip of automobiles. https://www.epa.gov/newsreleases/epa-and-doj-settle-derive-systems-over-vehicle-emissions-control-defeat-devices
I’m at 2250rpm at 70mph with 34s. That’s in 6th gear which is an OD gear at 0.67. I broke down the numbers you’re curious about below. To get the overdrive RPM for 6th gear in a 6L80 just multiply whichever engine RPM you are curious about by 0.67. ——— 28” tires need 720 tire revolutions per mile. 50,400 tire revs to go 70 miles in an hour. 3,830 engine rpm with a 1:1 trans gear and 4.56 rear gears to travel 70mph. 3,133 engine rpm with a 1:1 trans gear and 3.73 rear gears to travel 70mph. ——— 35” tires need 576 tire revolutions per mile. 40,320 tire revs to go 70 miles in an hour. 3,064 engine rpm with 1:1 trans gear and 4.56 rear gears to travel 70mph. 2,506 engine rpm with 1:1 trans gear and 3.73 rear gears to travel 70mph.
A lot has been done to the truck since the gears but I’ll try to fill in some blanks. 5.3L L83. Trans is a 6L80. The truck is a 4x4 and it’s original gears were 3.42. After the 4.56 gears were installed, I used a TruXP tuner (rebranded Superchips) to reflash the ECM to let it know I had 33.5” tires and 4.56 gears. I didn’t adjust anything else in the calibration, however, it is probable that TruXP automatically recalculated my transmission shift MPH to accommodate the gears and tires. There’s a couple reasons I think the TruXP must have adjusted the TCM calibration when I updated my gear ratio and tire size. My transmission shift RPMs didn’t change. At the time I thought the TCM shifted the trans based upon engine RPM. When I saw the shifts occurring at close to the same RPMs, I assumed the trans calibration was still stock. Now I know the trans shifts based upon MPH at a given throttle %. Also, the truck never redlined no matter how hard I pushed it. It never cut off the spark and always shifted appropriately. I now have 7,000+ miles on the gears and I still believe it’s one of the best investments I’ve made. I gave up on maximizing my fuel economy and decided to install a supercharger instead. So....yeah...4.56 gears + 4x4 + supercharger means she jumps off the line like a rabbit but fizzles out shortly thereafter. Tons of torque in the low and midrange (570lbs-ft according to the ECM) but the high RPM power of a blower just can’t compare to a turbo. And, with 4.56 gears, the truck gets into the high RPM range much faster than with 3.42s, so, I might have chosen the wrong power-adder for my gearing, but it’s still awesome.
Looks sweet! Probably rides great too.
I had about 70k miles on my original pads and rotors. Rusted to crap from Canadian and Michigan winters. They creaked and squealed at about 68k and I decided to replace them with raybestos police rotors and their Element 3 pads. It’s very important to properly break-in the new rotors and pads. Raybestos outlines the procedure online. I overheated them when I broke them in and glazed the rotors. Soon after, they squeaked too. I was able to scrape the rotors enough with a scotch-brite pad to remove the glaze and haven’t had any noise since. I also cleaned and lubed my parking brake components to address the issues described in the post above yours and it solved my creaking problem. Brakes are quiet now and have been for a year. Also, even my raybestos rotors are beginning to rust. I was really impressed with the OEM rotors after 68k miles in the rust belt. Yeah, they were rusted, but the contact surface was even and had a lot of life left if I wanted to salvage them. The OEM pads were dead.
I have 275/65R20 Cooper STT Pros on factory snowflakes with a Bilstein 5100 front level (2nd highest setting). The side lugs just barely rubbed my front sway bar on the driver’s side when fully locked left. About a year after install, I had the front end re-aligned and it no longer rubs. I’ve thought about going bigger but that gets really close to the bumper side of the front wheel well.
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