I don’t think they did. The way that my post was quoted makes it appear that another member’s comment was part of my original post. It’s very clear to me that my condenser was replaced with a completely new unit. The only criticism that have is that they new unit also includes the aluminum foil shield which I find cosmetically unappealing. Overall, I’m very happy with the performance of the new condenser. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mine was replaced with part number 84496856. It’s has a piece of reflective material in the top driver’s side corner. It looked like a piece of packaging material left over from shipping so I asked what it was. The service writer talked to the tech who said it was a shield to prevent road debris from damaging that corner of the condenser. Service writer said it’s the same unit that comes standard with the 2018s. I’m not exactly thrilled about a shiny piece of aluminum foil stuck behind the grill of my all black truck. Looks like a piece of trash got stuck to the condenser. On the positive side, my AC is ice cold.
2014 Sierra 1500 w/ 69,300 miles. AC condenser failed last week. Leak located upper driver’s side. $1,000.00 for the dealership to replace it. Includes a 2 year parts and labor warranty on the new condenser.
The trucks original owner lived in Canada. I’ve almost literally found salt (or whatever they use up there) in nearly every exterior crack and crevice. It makes me think he worked in a mine or was hauling/delivering it.
I purchased a 2014 Sierra that had a Sym-Tec system installed. It doesn’t appear to have been effective at all. The amount of rust on my frame was so excessive that it required grinding/stripping and a rust converter just to be able to treat it with POR-15. There was also rust in the interior of the vehicle around the bolts where the rear seats attach to the floor. I wouldn’t be surprised if someone smarter than I figured out that my frame was actually acting as the “sacrificial anode” referenced above.
I had the same "skittering" experience with my first Sierra All Terrain with Ranchos. It caught me by surprise one day while driving on a paved road that transitioned into a dirt road. As I approached the transition I didn't think much of it. I figured it was the type of road my All Terrain was built for. I was wrong. My tail hopped and swung all over the place and I felt like I was in a paint shaker. I chose Monroe Reflex shocks for the rear of my current All Terrain and Bilstein 5100 on the second highest setting for the front. So far I'm quite happy I drove on a dirt road today that was not well kept. I avoided the big holes and ruts as much as I could but inevitably I still drove over a lot of them. The truck handled much better. It was planted, no skittering all around. When it hit bigger holes, it dipped and returned to level driving. No harsh impact and no tail end temper tantrum. It didn't even wake up my 2 year old who was asleep in her car seat. My current tires are also bigger than the stock ones on my previous All Terrain. Same rims but now I'm running 275/65R20 STT Pros which are 34.5" in diameter. I'm sure they contributed a lot to the improved ride and handling. The Monroe Reflex shocks are $50 each. I say give them a try and if you like them, you can probably sell the rear Bilsteins and come out close to even.
Just a quick update regarding the tire size. At full lock turning to the left the side biters of my STT Pro 275/65R20 kisses the sway bar a little. It only does this in the driver's side when turning left. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The great thing about the Moto Fab kit is if you like it, great! And if you don't, then you're only out $40 plus installation cost. Hopefully the install won't be too much. Pep-Boys and related companies seemed to have decent prices and they often run specials. I also read on here that the Bilsteins at their highest setting are noticeably more stiff and that is one reason why I chose the second highest setting. I think the Ranchos were much more stiff than the Bilstein/Monroe combo. The swaying I felt was more like an exaggerated response because the shocks were so stiff. The best example I can give is that of going over speed bumps in my subdivision. We have the speed bumps that are like mounds and not like shallow curbs. I usually stay as far to the right when going over them which allows my passenger side to mostly avoid the bump. With the Ranchos, this resulted in a stiff rise of the drivers side as I went over the bump. Once I cleared the bump, the drivers side would squat and the passenger side would rise. Then the truck would return to level. I could feel three distinct movements. At first I thought, cool, this truck is built stiff to handle harsh conditions. By the end of my two year lease, I hated it. Michigan has some crappy roads with lots of potholes and uneven surfaces. Every time I drove, I felt like I was exercising my core. Exhausting. Going over the same bumps in my 2015 Silverado with standard shocks was "meh." No crazy lift-squat-return, but also not so comfortable to write home about. Quite simply, it just felt like a truck going over a bump. You know it's not a car nor is it remarkably stiff like the All Terrain truck, it's just "meh." Now, with the new Bilstein/Monroe combo going over the same speed bumps in the same way results in the drivers side smoothly rising up and smoothly returning to level driving. There's no squat or return. The rise isn't harsh, and the return to level driving feels like the shock is doing exactly what a shock is supposed to do, making that transition smooth. It's worth noting that the truck feels more grounded/stable than ever. The ability to absorb the bump doesn't come at the cost of having a light and lofty ride. I'm sure moving up to a 34"+ tire has also contributed to the smoother ride over potholes but I doubt it had anything to do with fixing the rise-squat-return feeling of the All Terrain. Credit for that goes 100% to the shocks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When deciding on the how to level the truck, I considered the cost also. The price difference between the Bilsteins and a spacer kit when installed by a mechanic was about $200 total. Conservatively, if I get 70k miles before the shocks need to be replaced, I'm looking at anywhere between 7-8 years of use based on my driving habits. $200 for 7-8 years of an improved ride was worth it to me. If the Bilsteins save me one set of ball joints in those 7-8 years compared to using a spacer kit and having them wear out prematurely (if they do in-fact cause premature wear), then the cost of the lifts are essentially the same. Regarding a truck behaving unpredictably. I agree a shock or suspension failure certainly could change the handling of the vehicle. If it occurred while stopped, no big deal. If it occurred while driving at speed, then I can see how it might result in the truck behaving unpredictably. Do spacer kits increase wear and tear and increase the chances of a failure? Perhaps. I haven't looked at the data, but it certainly is possible.
I have the Bilstein 5100s and 275/65R20 Discoverer STT Pros. The Bilsteins are set to the second highest level and the tires are 34.49" in diameter. It rubs a little at full turn but that will easily be fixed. I also replaced the rear shocks with Monroe Reflex monotube shocks (part# 911533). I've had two All Terrain Sierras with Rancho shocks from the factory. I prefer the Bilstein/Monroe combo by a significant margin. With the Rancho shocks, I felt like I was on a pendulum. When I would go over a bump on one side, the truck would sway back and forth. Potholes were also particularly harsh and sharp to go over. With the new shocks, it takes the bump and eats it. No swaying back and forth. No sharp pop of the pothole. This has significantly improved my driving experience. The truck also feels glued to the road (probably more due to the tires than the shocks). I was concerned the steering would be loose but it is not, it's very responsive. Since we're talking about a truck, not a sports car, my opinion about the steering is compared to the truck in stock form. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Can you post a link to the heavy fluid film you were referring to in your previous post? I would prefer to spray it on if that's an option. What equipment would you use? As far as the Rustoleum goes, can you explain how this won't trap moisture and/or prevent the oil from reaching the places it needs to. Is the Rustoleum permeable? My thought behind treatment with POR is it will consume the moisture underneath the treatment. Since I can't do a perfect prep, any spots I miss with the POR will be exposed to the Fluid Film. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BigBad, I completely agree. I've lived in the "rust belt" my whole life and the underside must be washed to clear out the salt. sdeeter, thanks for the feedback. I plan on a maintenance routine similar to what you described. I would like to paint it to restore the appearance of the frame. I'm sure the heavy fluid film would be great and stay trapped in the rough surface of the rust, however, I would still have a rust colored frame which I find unappealing. I also think for future resale it would decrease the value despite being only a cosmetic issue. That's why I'm thinking POR-15 and topcoat then treat with Fluid Film annually.
The original owner alternated between Michigan and Canada according to the AutoCheck. I purchased the vehicle from a non-GM dealer and it was delivered two days ago. The vehicle appeared to be, and for the most part is, in very good condition. I took it to get Bilsteins put on to level it out and was taken back by the corrosion. I reached out to the seller for a solution and am waiting to hear back. I really like these trucks. This is my third one from this body style/generation so I finally decided to purchase it rather than lease. Hopefully there is a reasonable solution available to stop any further damage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2014 Sierra 1500 SLE >60,000 miles My goal is to identify a solution and better understand what I'm dealing with. I'm not really interested in a bash the manufacturer thread, just looking for info to preserve my investment. At what point is this no longer just a cosmetic issue? For this quantity of rust, is POR-15 Rust Preventative Coating an appropriate fix coupled with annual Fluid Film application? I know the wax would be dissolved by the Fluid Film. Seeing that the wax isn't exactly excelling in its anti-corrosive role, I'm not sure dissolving it is such a bad thing. It would be replaced by the POR-15 and annual FF applications. While I'm sure stripping the truck down to the frame and sandblasting each component is the ideal prep, this is my daily driver and I have no such resources to do such an extensive teardown. How do you prep the inside of the frame? Is a wire brush sufficient to prep the exterior of the frame for this type/quantity of rust?
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