Thanks! I’m gonna start a build thread soon. It’s been a work in progress but I’m really happy with how it’s turned out. Here’s a list of specs: - 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 All Terrain 5.3L 4x4 - 4.56 Gears (Yukon Rear, Motive Front) - Shaftmasters Aluminum Driveshaft 0.125” thick, 5” diameter, ~71” long. - Spicer 1415 u-joints - PML rear differential cover - Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 - Cooper STT Pro 275/65R20 tires (34” diameter when new) - Bilstein 5100 Ride Height Adjustable shocks on second highest setting. - Engine Vacuum Pump Delete - CVR VP655 Electronic Vacuum Pump - Amsoil EaBP90 Engine Oil Bypass Filter - Speed Engineering Long Tube Headers - Speed Engineering True Dual 3” Stainless Exhaust with X-Pipe, axle dump - All cats deleted - Dual Borla Pro-XS mufflers - Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 HID Projectors - Morimoto D2S 4500k HID Bulbs - Morimoto XB LED Fog Lights - 1000 lumen LED Reverse lights - 5% 3M tint in all windows except windshield Pending mods: - Installation of new powder coated frame - Passenger side lightning exit for dual exhaust - Dual high flow cats after x-pipe - External transmission fluid filter - Dual vacuum reserve tanks for brake booster - SLP TVS1900 - Triple gauge pod A-pillar for wideband air/fuel ratio, oil temp, trans temp and/or boost gauge. Possible Mods: - Crankcase exhaust evacuated directly to header collectors from valve covers. - PCV valve delete, replaced with breather - Engine Oil Accumulator
The truck was rear-ended last month and the frame needed to be replaced. Insurance is covering the cost of the frame and the 33 hours of labor to replace it. This gave me a rare opportunity to do away with the factory wax (which I absolutely loathe) and have a more durable finish applied while the new frame was off the truck. I originally was going to do black powder coat. The more I thought about it, I decided to do a color instead because it would still have all the durability benefits of powder coating and would look really unique too. I’m a big fan of surprise mods that you don’t expect but are impressed with when you see them. Even though off of the truck it’s bright and far from subtle, it will live life mostly hidden from view. For those who catch a glimpse of it through the wheel well and are curious enough to look underneath, I think they will be pleasantly surprised by what they find. I know I would be.
Picking up my brand new, illusion cherry powder-coated 2014 Sierra frame from Quality Powdercoat and Sandblasting in Highland, Michigan. These guys did an absolutely stunning job with the frame and it wasn’t easy. The frame wax was a nightmare to get off. It had to be sand blasted, baked in the oven to melt, spot heat applied in the areas the wax was hiding, then sandblasted again. They then applied the base cherry color, baked it and had to apply the clear coat after the cherry glazed over in the oven but before it cured per the application spec. They then baked it all together to cure, let it sit overnight, and baked it again. Mad props to Brian and Jake at QPC, their attention to detail was impeccable and the result is nothing short of stunning.
300 Blackout started following AFM Lifter failure cause, Interesting Article Segment I Found Regarding Disabling of AFM, Just when you thought it was safe to drive a 6 speed and and 4 others
I’ve got a couple questions. Is there any downside to running an oil accumulator just in case oil pressure drops? Did you consider running an exhaust scavenging kit on your valve covers (where the stock breather ports are located) and use the PCV port as your breather with a filter and one way valve? Are you running a vacuum regulating valve on your cold side turbo vacuum source? It seems like you could pull a ton of vacuum without one, perhaps enough to cause problems... not sure though, I’ve never seen the numbers on how much vacuum it would pull. Love this build thread. Tons of info here.
Those are some interesting looking cats! I went with spun metal substrate “high flow” Flowmaster cats. I’m not connecting my rear O2 sensors. I mainly just want to convert some of the gasses and keep the system flowing well. I’m tuning out the rear O2 sensors soon. If I was looking not to throw codes those cal cats look like serious business.
On a 5.3 it is located just under the throttle body. If you’re standing at the front of the truck looking at the throttle body, it will be just to the left of it. The Haynes service manual describes the removal and cleaning procedure.
I think you might have misread my post. I’m agreeing with you. I am putting cats back on it to address the fumes and noise. Dual exhaust isn’t pertinent to the fumes, I’m just letting the OP know I have an aftermarket catless exhaust.
^^^^This I’m putting cats back on my Long Tube, X-Pipe, dual exhaust specifically because the fumes. It’s not just the smell, the unconverted gasses are much more toxic. I have a 4 year old and I’m not willing to expose her to that daily. The cats should also help quiet things down for the neighbors.
I have the exact same driveshaft as imiller1974 from the same company. I’ve got 4.56 gears and at 70mph my shaft is spinning the equivalent rpm of going ~92mph with the stock 3.42 gears. I upgraded the driveshaft due to concerns about being too close to the critical speed of the stock shaft. Essentially, I wanted a bigger margin of safety. The new driveshaft can handle over 6k rpm which equates to around 140mph with my 4.56 gears and 33.5” tires. It also maxes out around 10k lbs-ft of torque. I would be more worried about how fast it’s spinning rather than how much HP or TQ you’re producing. In the driveshafts I’ve looked at, critical speed was always the limiting factor. 1SLOW1500 prefers two piece steel shafts. You might want to send him a PM for his input as to why.
If you still have AFM active, you will be in V4 a lot and gas mileage may even improve. I have 4.56 gears with 33.5” tires. Gas mileage improved for me compared to running those tires without the gears. Then I deactivated AFM and it dropped back down. Hard to give you a reliable number right now since I let my truck idle so much now with how cold it is.
Do you have a 2wd truck? If so your driveshaft is a bit longer (less stable). Perhaps it was damaged last week. I replaced mine as preventative maintenance with a 5” diameter 1/8” thick aluminum one. Still have the stock one in my garage. Your two piece should solve the problem. Not sure how to fix the gas lines but I’m hopeful it won’t be too hard for you. Can you look into the severed ends of your driveshaft and let me know if there is cardboard sandwiched between two layers of aluminum? I’ve seen other photos of this type of construction but can’t see any cardboard in your photos. Good luck with the repair, glad you weren’t hurt.
It was loud. Yes, mostly at cold start. The truck sounded a little lopey like it had a stage 1 cam installed. I pretty much had to idle out of the subdivision to try to show some consideration. The tone was so deep that it wasn’t too bad even though it was loud. It’s a great sounding exhaust. Absolutely without a doubt worth every penny of the $400 they charge for it. I did the axle dump which explains a lot of the drone that I got inside the cab. Just keeping up with normal traffic while accelerating from a red light sounded awesome though. One thing to keep in mind, we all speed up for whatever reason while driving around and no one really bats an eye. When you get on it with this exhaust, no matter how reasonable it is to accelerate quickly, it’s gonna sound like you’re drag racing and everyone within a quarter mile will know it. That said, it’s a sick sounding deep scream that can’t be captured by the microphones of my camera or phone. If you live in an area with a lot of gear heads or if your neighbors are into cars, it will definitely put a smile on their faces. If you do get it, buy a handful of the large stainless steel band clamps. The ones in their kit have been improved from previous versions and work but the system looks so much cleaner with the big clamps.
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