There is a way but it’s a lengthy process. First you have to remove the engine and ECM. Then you have to sell both items, collect funds and purchase an older, tunable engine and ECM. Install the new-old engine and ECM. Problem solved. :-)
(Deleted inaccurate info) There were reports that the trucks were catching fire while being allowed to sit idling for too long. That’s when GM issued a recall (Deleted inaccurate info). You may want to read up on this some more before bypassing it.
I had an electronic system on my truck. It didn’t do anything. My frame had so much rust after 65k miles people thought it was a flood vehicle. It took a long time to get rid of the rust, prep for paint and paint it with POR15. Now I’m applying fluid film to the inside of the frame once the application gun arrives.
Changed the fluid in my front differential (500 mile break in) and my transfer case (72k miles). The magnet on the transfer case plug was covered in little bits of metal and the oil was dark. Glad I didn’t wait until the GM recommended change interval of 97.5k miles. Installed Morimoto XB LED fog lights.
Thanks for posting the follow-up. Sorry to hear about the end result but I’m glad you found the problem and got at least some help from the dealer/GM. When I had my front diff gears replaced, the shop said they work on our front ends pretty regularly. Mine held up fine for the 70k prior to getting my gears swapped. No problems after the gear change either. While they were in there, I had them replace my bearings. It was only an extra $100-200 and will likely give me another 100k miles or more of trouble free usage. Thanks for sharing your experience. I’m sure it will help anyone else who has similar symptoms.
Looks great! Thanks for leading the way and posting this cam install for those of us looking to doing this. I called over to TSP and spoke with Don and he was more than helpful in answering the million questions I had. I’d really like to be able to keep the VVT in the truck and he explained their dyno test result for the LT motors don’t support keeping VVT with more aggressive cams compared to stock. Basically, compared to the timing phaser spring in the LS motors, which is more robust and can handle the increased valve spring pressure with the aftermarket cams, the LT motors’ phaser spring is not as strong and is more likely to be overwhelmed by the stronger valve springs. This is why they recommend a 0-degree phase-limiter block to replace the 20-degree block provided by comp cams. This info was interesting to hear since their website description states VVT can be retained in their cams. Now the debate begins if a less aggressive tune will allow me to keep 20% VVT with a Stage 1 TSP cam rather than eliminating it completely. I sure do like my low end torque...
How do you plan on getting the truck tuned? Are you towing it to a tuner or are you going to tune it yourself? Did you install the vvt phaser limiter? Have you considered taking the old cam into the dealership who performed your warranty work and see if they will compensate you for not replacing the damaged cam when they should have?
Do you have a part number? I can’t find a pre-axle side exit exhaust in T304. Nothing other than aluminized steel is in the $500 price range and most of their stainless products use T409.
The valve is not controlled by the tune. The valve doesn’t have any electronics, it’s simply a butterfly valve with constant spring pressure that defaults to the closed position until enough exhaust pressure causes the valve to open completely. The truck always starts in V8 so the AFM delete really isn’t doing anything different than normal at startup. It simply doesn’t allow the truck to exit V8, therefore, the valve always stays open (until you shut off the truck). Easiest way to disable the valve is with a clamp. Get a wrench, manually turn the valve to the open position and clamp it there. If you leave AFM active with the valve clamped open, you’ll likely hear what is described as the “chopper” noise when traveling in V4 mode. It’s entertaining to say the least. You’ll feel like George Jetzin puttering down the highway. The other option is to cut the valve out. Most guys who do this cut out their muffler and straight pipe from the 3rd cat to just behind where the valve used to be. If you leave the resonator (looks like a smaller muffler above the rear axle), you actually end up with a nice sounding exhaust. Cost is about $50 at a muffler shop. Takes less than 30 minutes.
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