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300 Blackout

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  1. To ground the circuit, I reviewed the gmupfitter electrical guide and chose a location on the frame near where the pump was installed. I removed the bolt, scuffed the surface with steel wool and connected my ground. I also used plenty of dielectric grease to protect from the elements. I again used water line as conduit to protect the wire from chafing if it rubs on the frame. This pic shows that at the chosen grounding location there is a factory wire that connects to a vehicle ground. The wire I am connecting from the pump can be seen above. This is what the prepared grounding wire from the pump looks like.
  2. I used 1/4 refrigerator water line as conduit to pass the relay wire from the engine compartment to the driver’s side interior fuse box. Just below the A pillar, above where the factory door wires enter through the body into the footwell, is a round weather plug/cap. I drilled a small hole in the middle of it and ran the conduit through it and into the footwell. It comes out just above the parking brake. And can easily be routed into the fuse box where I also spliced in a fuse since the prong I used was not fused. The prong I chose is next to a 50amp fuse and is for an accessory power outlet/retained accessory power (APO/RAP) which means it is only powered when the ignition is in the run position and retains power for up to 10 minutes after the vehicle is turned off as long as the driver door remains closed. It also automatically turns off during the crank cycle. The fuse number on my vehicles panel diagram is #10. This prong was left exposed from the factory and was very easy to connect to using standard female blade terminal fittings. This circuit seemed to be a safe choice for the relay as it is controlled by the BCM rather than the ECM. Looking back, I could have run both the pump power and relay off of this same circuit rather than running power for the pump directly from the battery like I did.
  3. I should have readings by tonight once I pick up a gauge. I just finished all the wiring. I’m a little paranoid about electrical stuff so I read the gmupfitter electrical guide before making my connections and choosing locations for ground, power, etc... I think it turned out great although I went a little heavy on the electrical tape and shrink wrap. :-)The pump isn’t loud at all. https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf#page250
  4. There is another lengthy thread on here which describes a corrosion issue in the door’s wiring harness connection that causes similar symptoms. I’d start taking apart the panels in the door to access that harness and assess if it’s causing your problem.
  5. Yes, it is the switch. The part number is VS25 and the silver check valve it’s screwed into is VS27. I found the switch at summit in the link below but didn’t find the valve. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-vs-25
  6. Battery life

    I replaced the original 2013 built AC Delco battery in my 2014 Sierra a couple months ago. The battery didn’t need to be changed and I had no problems with it. I replaced it simply because it was 5 years old and I didn’t want to push my luck. I chose a Champion AGM battery from Pepboys for about $150. It comes with a 4 year replacement guarantee. I wouldn’t hesitate to run Interstate, Bosch or many other batteries either.
  7. I thought about using my factory vacuum pump for crank case vacuum and installing a relief valve set to about 10-15 inches. I’m not sure what additional strain that would put on the oil pump fighting against crank vacuum on a stock engine so for now I’m not going to do that. Im not sure electric pumps are the best choice for crank vacuum. It seems that a mechanical pump can increase its CFM output as engine RPM’s increase. I would think this is needed as more CFMs need to be moved to maintain vacuum at higher RPMs and less at lower RPMs. Perhaps an electric pump could do this but the mechanical pump seems more intuitive.
  8. Front of the truck looking towards the front driver’s side tire. In front of the driver’s side tire looking toward the passenger side of the vehicle. I stripped the frame wax then painted the frame member where it’s attached. I used all stainless steel hardware. I’ll post up all of the parts and tools needed once I’m finished getting everything hooked up.
  9. The engine ground or Engine Control Module could be the problem. The ECM sends data to the instrument panel. The fact it’s reproducible when the pedal goes to the floor is useful info. This document will be useful in helping you find the circuit that interacts with the pedal, engine and instrument cluster. http:// https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf
  10. 2016 Rear Differential Fluid/Rear Axle Fluid

    Many people use RTV in addition to the factory gasket. My factory gasket was rusted on the edges, I didn’t want to chance having an issue so I tossed it. The Right Stuff RTV was less messy than other RTV that I used. If your factory gasket is in good condition then it can be reused. If you also choose to use RTV then maybe you’ll have a better experience with the above product. Regarding gear oil, the following link is to a study performed at the request of Amsoil. The methodology of the study appears to be solid and was the reason I chose Severe Gear over some of the other quality gear oils. https://www.lastgreatroadtrip.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/gear-oil-comparison.pdf
  11. 2016 Rear Differential Fluid/Rear Axle Fluid

    I highly recommend when you make a new gasket to use Permatex Right Stuff instant gasket maker in either black or grey. The benefit is you can apply it easily in one continuous bead, install the cover and torque your bolts to the torque spec immediately without waiting an hour. You can also fill it with fluid right away rather than waiting 24 hours. I think synthetics leaking in older vehicles has more to do with the gasket than anything else. When you do pop the cover, be sure to clean the magnet just under the ring gear. Also remember to cover the differential and gears before scraping the left over gasket material off of the axle. I took a picture of my differential then made a gasket, sealed up the rear end and began the waiting game. Went into my house and looked at my picture. Saw a piece of gasket that fell into the locker. It drove me nuts so I ended up removing the cover again to clean the locker and went through the gasketing process again. Not hard to do, but definitely something you want to do right. I went with Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 and a PML cover. So far I’m very pleased.
  12. Get a couple buddies willing to spend the night in your truck.
  13. I went with AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-90 for my diff fluid and AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel Efficient ATF for my trans and transfer case. Become an Amsoil preferred customer if you’re gonna drop that amount of money on Amsoil fluids. It’s a no brainer as it will save you more than the cost of the membership and includes free shipping etc... Nick (Black02Silverado) can get you squared away if you choose to go that route. There’s plenty of other great options out there too, hopefully others will chime in.
  14. What have you done to your K2 today?

    Finished my brake install. Last night when burnishing my front brakes, I noticed a slight squeal as the tire rotated at slow speeds without the brakes applied. This morning I investigated and found that my passenger front rotor had an uneven wear pattern and small black deposits from the pads on the rotor. I got out a dental pick and scraped off each and ever little bit of that stuff then took a scotchbrite pad and evenly and lightly scuffed the rotor surface. After finishing my rear brakes today, I drove to break them in and was very happy to see my squeal is no longer there and all 4 rotors now display an even wear pattern. My guess is I was a little too aggressive in my break-in driving last night and glazed a couple small areas of the pads which fused to the rotor. Live and learn.

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