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  1. Weather and salt make the most difference; the frame coating is really not robust to all conditions across the US.
  2. On the opposite side of what you are looking at is a tab that secures the connector housing with the lever. Insert a small flathead screwdriver from the wire entry side to release the tab and pull the housing away from the wires (it will slide out towards the opposite direction than the direction wires are coming in).
  3. I completed my install of relay latching boards to convert AUX 1/2 pushbuttons to switches. Many options exist but the two boards I got conveniently (tightly) fit in a project box I had. Blue/red/white wires lead to the multifunction switch according to one of my previous posts, pink is constant fused positive from AUX battery, black is ground, and red/white is the control wire for my inverter from AUX 1 switch (other one currently does nothing). Relays on these boards are DPDT so I can switch a ground lead (for my AUX 1/2 indicators on the buttons), and also a positive (for whatever). It all fit nicely under the dash. For members reading this for the first time and wondering why some of us are doing completely different things, in essence, if you have a setup of switches allowing you to use a multifunction switch bank in its original shape with AUX switches, then you can retrofit a portion of the wiring to get it to work in the factory style, and utilize factory fuse/relay sockets. On the other hand, if you are in a situation where you have to combine multiple switch banks, you get pushbuttons for AUX functions (and not switches), which then somehow need to be wired to work as switches (that is to toggle relays) - when these relay latching boards come into play. Also as a note, I removed the red LEDs from these boards signifying that relays are off to reduce parasitic draw (since this is hooked up to constant positive from my AUX battery). Each of these boards draws about 3.5mA (when LED indicating normally-closed active state is removed) which is not bad if you have only a small number of them.
  4. I just ordered Littelfuse 298900, which holds one MEGA type fuse (same as the fuses used in previous generation power distribution blocks, and also this generation on the aux battery positive terminal). There are many options to fuse this lead; I just went with this one because I don't like needing to have multiple types of spare fuses and this vehicle already has too many different ones (I already have these exact 250A fuses for my inverter). 250A fuse part # is MEG250XP. Note: this is not one of those in-line fuse housings that hang with the wire but rather has mounting points for two bolts.
  5. There is a small catch - the factory line from the alternator is fused with 175A on the power distribution block (on top of the main battery). Most likely I will just get a 250A inline fuse and move over that wire three lugs down directly to the power bus. Also, making that wire thicker gauge is probably a good idea to support full charging current.
  6. With help from member doubeleive, I am finding that 84143541 220 Amp alternator works without problems. I think that will be enough for my needs right now.
  7. I'd like to hear about OEM-style alternator upgrades for the L83, I have a 2016 Sierra 1500 with current sensor. I assume that dual alternators cannot be fit into the factory wiring since there's no way to "split" alternator control wires into two? Edit: I have 23487089 (150 Amp), and I think the 170 Amp one is 22949467. Is there anything bigger that will just plug in and work? Every experience is appreciated. Thanks a lot!
  8. I got the switches installed; before: after: These terminated leads are required for X1 connector on the switches, but you can also just tap into existing wiring: Tapping into X1: Tapping into X2: All together doesn't look any different than factory wiring: That's it for today. On the dangling end I have 1x RED wire for AUX1/2 LED indicators (positive), 2x WHITE wires for AUX1/2 LED indicators (ground), 2x BLUE wires for AUX1/2 push-buttons (ground). Notice that the red wire is hooked up to an additional pin (cavity 10) - this is related to my mod (from previous posts) which allows me to control AUX1/2 indicators separately from the lights of the rest of the instrument cluster. I will soon post with pics of relay latching/toggling boards needed to make AUX1/2 push-buttons function as switches.
  9. I had something very important pointed out by J_Mas6.2 member and I think this is understated in most topics pertaining to custom dual battery setups, and especially lengthy ones where it becomes hard to read every single post (there are some notes on this on earlier pages of this topic). The negative lead of the aux battery should be looped through the current sensor measuring current through the negative leads of the primary battery. It should be looped through from top to down (just like leads from the primary battery), to ensure correct current measurement, or simply connected directly to the primary battery terminal (that way all drawn from both batteries will flow through the existing ground leads to the primary battery). However, I would recommend running additional leads to the ground (through the sensor), from the aux battery. This is essential for correct operation of the charging system. The builder's manual is not very helpful when it comes to this detail. In the schematics there, the current sensor measures current through ground circuits marked # 250 and 450, while the aux battery ground (circuit # 350) does not appear to loop through the current sensor. However, not all truck/engine configurations have the current sensor, which is where the builder's manual is short. For trucks that do have current sensors, this also invalidates (I believe) all negative terminal part numbers listed in this topic - I have seen none that are long enough to actually run to the primary battery. Note that one could relatively easily make a circuit that will take information from two current sensors, "combine" them, and send that info to the BCM. A small microcontroller could do this as the signal coming out of the current sensor is nothing but a pulse width-modulated pulse train of a specific frequency. However, the hard part is programming the microcontroller to properly respond to the BCM diagnostic actions - the builder's manual states that the pulse width range 5-95% is meant to be proportional to the current being drawn out of the battery, while 0-5% and 95-100% are meant for diagnostic purposes. Specification on what exactly is being done here is omitted, which makes a correct design with two current sensors quite impossible.
  10. Went on to replace the switch assembly today and couldn't pull the old switches out - do the climate controls need to be removed? I was afraid of braking something.
  11. I can confirm that this now works, that is, remote start is not bothered by the sensor any more. In short, my audio/tilt/shock sensors and tailgate switch are always emulating the "hood open" condition, except when either the engine is running or accessories are on (in that case the sensors are not active). One of these days I will modify the schematic to show how to go from the ground output to positive output on the sensors and that should conclude this mod. Anyone who has some experience with wiring relays could do this, if interested.
  12. As far as I understand, if you don't have AUX switches out of the factory, you can't get away without playing around with wiring. You might find it easier to use the HomeLink buttons on the ceiling - someone posted about a kit for those a long time ago so that link is broken; not sure if those kits are still out there.
  13. I am in the process of doing that exact same thing and I want those accessories available always (regardless of the key position), and supplied from the AUX battery. First of all you need to "criss-cross" two switch blocks like myself above. Additionally, since LDW and Exhaust Brake switches (or, your new AUX1/AUX2) are pushbuttons, both of us will need to add latching relays to be able to toggle accessories from those switches. I have modified the switch block as above to be able to have the indicators light up regardless of the key position, and will soon wrap this up with two latching relay circuits. I have been working on other things so couldn't finish this, but will follow up on my previous post when I am done.
  14. The Run/Crank Ignition signal can be found right there in the X51L left instrument panel fuse block, and I think that would be enough to fix the remote start problem. So, according to the updated schematic, the sensor power supply will be cut off if either the accessories are on, or the engine is cranking/running. Scenario 1: You unlock the truck, sit in the seat and the moment you turn the key, audio sensor is disabled and you won't get hood open warnings (because RAP signal disables the sensor) Scenario 2: You perform remote start and as soon as cranking is initiated, audio sensor is disabled and there is no chance of an open hood condition during remote cranking/running (because RUN/CRANK signal disables the sensor) I will try to wire this today/tomorrow and this should wrap up this specific mod (I still haven't had time to wire up the remaining of the sensors though...).
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