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About Vuk

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  1. Inverters with two sets of 12V screw terminals appear to be common in the range above 2000W. I suppose that if say one fused link fails, the other fuse would blow quickly as, like you said, it cannot handle that load all alone.
  2. The installation manual for the inverter says to run two 00 gauge lines that are fused with 250Amp fuses each. I think that if you keep the length of the two wires close to identical, there should be no issues.
  3. My setup is complete now with nice factory-looking points to hook up an inverter. Should I ever need to jump start the primary battery, I can always run jump cables from aux battery to the primary.
  4. I picked up a 48PG battery today and installed my three-fuse modification. The original negative auxiliary battery cable 84354708 seems like it would never be delivered, so I picked up 22846471 (at about the same price) and removed the sensor. This one gives an additional ground lead of decent gauge that can be used for accessories, which is even better. I've replaced the 175A fuses with 250A as a preparation for a 3000W inverter running off of the aux battery. I will post pics once the battery lays down in the next couple of days.
  5. I've decided to kiss this frame goodbye in about 5 years and build a galvanized one to support V8 tuning (if the motor and cab stay well by then). Anyway, not sure how the previous owner treated the undercarriage given salty NJ roads, but just looking at condition of very old vehicles that have not been specially treated is disappointing (and appears to be by no means exclusive to GM trucks).
  6. Hi all! I've had this message come up on my 2016 Sierra 1500 AllTerrain intermittently (I've owned it for about 3months), but the sensors would always show the correct screen (displaying sensor readings) after dismissing the message on the DIC. I recently removed the bed for rust repair, and took the time to thoroughly clean the connectors on the rear junction with contact spray - they are super clean and snap in very nicely now. I did not remove connectors from the ECUs underneath the bed (by the way a weird place to put ECUs when there is so much space under the hood). The problem did not show again for a few weeks and I thought it was resolved, however, now for the first time I will get this message and after dismissing it, nothing will show on the DIC. Can someone confirm if these problems can be diagnosed with, for example, an Autel Maxidas DS808? Will I get codes related to the park assist system on this scanner? Thank you!
  7. I recently finished repairing some of the rust in the rear end (under the bed) on my 2016 Sierra 1500 AllTerrain (came from NJ, has 40k miles now). Sincerely, it is disappointing that these trucks rust so badly so quickly. 30-year old cars have undercarriages in better shape. Regardless, I think the wax GM is using is indeed a good product, the only problem being thin application. When cleaning it off to prepare for painting, the spots where there were tears (i.e., thick application) it was very resistant to getting off of the frame, and the metal underneath was intact. On the other hand, spots where the layer was very thin is where it washed off quickly, and water and contaminants started penetrating from there on - hence the peeling.
  8. I am looking to expand the OEM alarm system with shock and glass breakage sensors. Once I am done I will be posting details about my setup, but right now I am looking for the best place to tap into the RAP line - I need this to disable additional sensors when accessories are on (i.e., alarm is not operational). If someone has a better signal in mind (something that is directly related to the alarm, such as an "armed" signal), that would be awesome. Thank you!
  9. Could be! Mine does not run on E85, which may be the reason. Thanks!
  10. My 2016 Sierra 1500 AllTerrain has a blank 2-wire connector that was taped with wide gray electrical tape to the harness in the middle of the center crossmember of the chassis under the bed, between the bed and the chassis. Anyone knows what this is for? Thank you!
  11. Could be that it has changed at some point during 2018; I am not knowledgeable enough to say anything about that.
  12. All the wiring info is from the 2018 builder's manual. The part numbers I got printed out from a dealer, so not sure if the battery tray or the harness would be the same.
  13. My truck has the switch block 23145162 (Pedals / TC / Dome Light / Park Assist / HDC). Does this mean that if I buy 23145202 (Pedals / TC / Cargo Light / Park Assist / LDW / HDC / Exhaust Brake), everything will continue working but I will be able to use the LDW and Exhaust Brake switches for accessories? I am OK with hardwiring into the switch block. Thank you!
  14. In fact, ECUs can estimate the battery capacity by keeping track of the discharge rate through the current sensor, which these trucks have. I wanted an auxiliary battery for a 2-3kW inverter, but thought that it would also provide me with a secure start in case my primary battery dies (just of old age because the BCM seems to reserve the right to shut things off if the battery discharges below a certain point). The fact that the factory fuse between the batteries is 125A explains that the aux battery is not meant for cranking.
  15. This is the battery tray, secondary auxiliary relay, and the optional 3 fuse box and cover for older model years if you want to replace the single fuse box on the aux battery harness: This is the factory harness between the primary battery and the X50A underhood fuse box: This is the aux battery harness that replaces it and adds the relay for switching the battery isolator, cable running from the primary battery distribution block to the isolator, cable running from the isolator to the aux battery (including the battery terminal with a 125A fuse), the connector for controlling the isolator, and the connector to control the aux battery switching: Here you can see the blank screw on the primary battery distribution block - the cable running to the isolator hooks up there. This is the connector on the aux battery harness where ground, (+), and the control signal (run/ignition) need to get in: This is the service terminals that connects to that connector. I ran black, violet/brown, red/white wires in the standard flex installation hose along the firewall (connector is on passenger side, my wiring goes back to the driver side) Here is the battery isolator secured to the firewall. I pulled out the black wire right there to connect to the ground post. This is the connector where you need to connect the red/white wire from the harness (the terminated lead wire is white) This shows where things come together with the red/white wire going to the service connector: Violet/brown can just be tapped into on the engine/body connector: All done (except for the aux battery which is on order, so I left the cable going to it disconnected from the isolator just to avoid having to heavily isolate it).
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