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garagerog last won the day on December 29 2017

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  1. Did you mean flex-plate wear? Can't see how auto stop-start would adversely affect the crankshaft main bearings as I doubt the oil would completely drain from the journals on such short cycles, but what do I know, I'm old and drive old stuff without that new-fangled tech.
  2. There are a couple of members here that constantly extol the virtues of the 4.3 L so I'm sure they'll be chiming in soon. As far as the 3 pedal set-up, I like that too! As long as you don't have a lot of stop and go traffic or live in a hilly city. It wasn't the truck manufacturers decision to kill manual transmissions in light duty trucks, blame it on the EPA, the cost of certifying and meeting emission and mileage standards brought that about. I grew up on a farm many moons ago, learning the art of double clutching before full synchromesh transmissions and split shifting 2 speed rear ends, so I say hell yeah, go with a good manual tranny truck if it works for you!
  3. OP, it's a Feature, normal, been that way on many vehicles across the board for years now. If it bothers you that bad, shut off your a/c during the last 5 minutes of your drive and sweat it out.
  4. I'm just going to address #2 and #3, OP on #2, the slight squeal in the engine bay, I would check the serpentine belt and tensioner pulley. On #3, what appears to be low oil pressure, first check with a mechanical gauge to verify those numbers. You didn't say how many miles this Tahoe has on it, but if those numbers are correct, you're getting into the lower range of what I think is acceptable oil pressure. As long as you're not getting any consistent lifter tick, I would think it would be safe to drive for awhile as long you don't drive it like you stole it and for $1200 maybe you did!
  5. Only thing I can think of is when your trailers are loaded you may not have enough tongue weight on the hitch, might try scaling things, also are you using an equalizer hitch?
  6. Daniel, yes if indeed you do have the 4T65-E transmission it is right at 7.4 quarts to refill after a pan drop and filter change. I highly recommend you install the Transgo shift kit on this transmission while you have the pan off. It's an easy job as the accumulator is right in front of you with the pan off. The kit consists of stronger springs and spacers to basically control the shifts mechanically rather than relying on the electrical solenoids which are prone to failure resulting in harsh shifts due to increased line pressure. It's not a matter if the solenoids will fail, but when, usually between 75k and 125k miles.
  7. Brendon, not sure how much weight you're towing, but even only at 1000 miles a year I think I would stick to the recommended SEVERE DUTY service intervals, especially given the condition of your original transmission fluid. Do you have the factory tow package with an auxiliary transmission cooler? If not, I would invest in one.
  8. I've kinda skipped through the posts on this thread, so pardon me if this has already been mentioned. The Chevy truck ad on tv that features the power down function then they dump a load of gravel in the bed to highlight payload capacity. I noticed that they didn't feature power up after the gravel dump, but sure as shootin some numbnuts will try and power the tailgate up with gravel or other debris caught between the bed and tailgate then bitch and moan about bad design when the tailgate goes TU. I mean, really how difficult is it to open a tailgate manually? Quit suckin yor momma's tit and man up.
  9. Assembly or perhaps transport, the dealer or GM may have seen this before even though I would think it's quite uncommon. They should follow the bread crumbs trail back through transport (rail and/or truck) to final assembly to find the cause. Hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like that pinch is in a welded seam. Hope they do right by you Snakes.
  10. Only stock transmission I've ever heard of that could handle a high rpm (close to redline) drop from neutral into drive on a repeated basis was the old Chrysler Corp. 727 Torqueflite. Chad, I fear that you have learned a very expensive lesson.
  11. Thomkat was talking about using kerosene to rinse the funnel, not the crankcase. Many decades ago I knew a farmer that used straight diesel to cleanse the crankcase in his Cat D5 before an oil change, was it worth it? Maybe, but in farming as in most industries, time is money so I doubt it. And who's to say that any residual diesel, kerosene or another solvent isn't a worse contaminant than the dirty oil remaining.
  12. If the UAW leadership is as corrupt as the teamsters were under Jimmy Hoffa, their surviving family members better be prepared to break out the jackhammers to find their remains.
  13. They gave you a loaner right? If your truck is not fixed before hunting season and the loaner they gave you is not off road capable, e.g. a sedan or van and they won't switch it out for you, tell the dealer the busted oil or transmission pan and tow are on them, just make sure you have cell service or a sat phone with you on your hunting trip.
  14. Does this mean you're considering buying one or renting one as opposed to one you already own? Nothing you can do about the weight of the K5, but if you're really concerned about shedding some of that towing weight since you're going to be towing in hill country, there are lighter weight car haulers out there by at least a 1000 lbs. Aluminum and open deck for example.
  15. I've got 3 vehicles, 2 of them not older than dirt, but older than the advent of TPMS. The wife's 17 Equinox, the exception. When the tires are cold, they read consistently together. The TPMS registers about 3 lbs. more than multiple gauges I've used and they have been all in the ball park together. Granted, those weren't high-end race shop gauges that would be worth calibrating, but they weren't the $2-3 cheapos either. I inflate the Nox's tires to 35 psi by gauge, TPMS registers 38 psi. Oh, my elevation is about 35 feet above sea level. Last added air to those tires last fall, TPMS just now has dropped down to the range of 35 psi, but it's been hot here all summer, so again come fall I'll have to drag the air hose out. So, I'll open a whole nother can of worms for debate, nitrogen filling of tires. Yes, it's worth it for race cars, in my opinion for the consumer it's just a profit center for dealers. Think about it, the free air all around you and what goes into your compressor is already roughly 79% nitrogen. Although oxygen is slighty more permeable to leaking through rubber than nitrogen, I don't go with the nitrogen hype and expense.
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