Modern engines don't require a formal "break-in" procedure any longer, just vary the rpm's and avoid towing or hauling heavy loads for the first 500 miles. For peace of mind an early oil change is warranted. Most new vehicle owners are obsessed with the engine and don't consider the brakes, brakes still need to be broken in properly, consult your owner's manual.
I'm with diyer, also retired and I go as long as possible without shaving, then I'll knock the beard down with a Norelco shaver and finish up with a cheap Schick disposable razor. I also got tired of buying shaving cream, so I went way old school and bought a shaving mug and brush, a little bar of Williams shaving soap will last 6 mos. If you happen to go that route, get a brush with synthetic bristles, the horsehair bristles lather better, but shed bad and make a mess.
I don't own a bike anymore, to old I guess, but back in the day I didn't have any trouble transitioning between dirt and street. Last bike I owned was a KZ1000, fast bike back in the day. My cousin however was one of those that did have that difficulty. Back in the early 70's he lived in SoCal and everything he drove had to be beyond fast, from his race cammed 69 Torino to the Kawa 750 triple he almost killed himself on. The Kawasaki 750 triple was a 2 cycle bike with an unbelievable power to weight ratio, look at it cross-eyed and it was liable to pop a wheelie while still resting on the kickstand.
If you can SAFELY access the a/c compressor with a mechanic's stethoscope with the truck running and a/c on, I would for sure check that out. I don't think that idlers or tensioners make the noise you're describing when they go bad. One of the a/c compressors I had to replace on a 04 Bonneville I once had was making the noise you're describing before the compressor went terminal.
garagerog replied to Ithan Henry's topic in Major League Sports, Outdoor Recreation, Firearms, Hunting, OHRVI'm looking forward to the All-Star race at Bristol this year. Bristol is always entertaining, but when you bring the All-Star race (aka as Checkers or Wreckers) there, it should make for some interesting racing action!
My 84 K-20 HD had one too, so it's not exclusive to 1 tons. My guess is that it's more common on front straight axles rather than IFS 4WD because of the suspension and front drive-line travel.
Sweet! All that needs now is a water cannon, 200 gallon tank and pump and you're ready to sweep the streets of the riff-raff rioters and looters! My first impulse was to suggest a .50 cal with a very long belt, but my kinder and gentler side broke through .
For those that do like to run the AC-Delco Dexos synthetic, I'm sure you can pick it up cheaper through RockAuto than you can from your dealer. I picked up a couple of 5 quart jugs of the AC-Delco Dexos @ $19 ea. + $5 shipping = $24/5 quarts delivered to my door. That's a couple of dollars cheaper per 5 quarts than my local Wallys wants for M1 plus saves me a trip.
Thanks for the heads up, I'd never heard of it. Went to their website so I could do a little continuing education, in the automotive market, it looks like it's used for primarily for bundling, they touted all kinds of advantages to it, but no where was resistance to electrical shorts mentioned. All that fuzz looks like kindling on a potential electrical fire to me, I'll stick with black electrical tape thank you.
On evaporator condensation dripping on the exhaust manifold, if you're able to park your p/u truck in the garage that's a good thing in my mind, keeps a big puddle off your garage floor. Here in the humid south, that's a common issue and I'm constantly sweeping water off the garage floor after the wife pulls her car in after a trip out. Yes, I know I could tell her to turn the A/C off a few minutes before arriving home, but try telling a cranky old woman anything, let alone how to operate her car is an exercise in futility in the extreme.
It's not the accumulator you would change out per se, but the accumulator components. Check out Transgo for their shift kit for the 4L60-E. It's more involved than the Transgo shift kit I installed on a 4T65-E in an 04 Bonneville, but that kit for the 4T65-E worked as advertised and cured harsh 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, basically mechanical rather than relying on dirty, lazy electronic solenoids.
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