garagerog started following 2001 2500 HD. What should my leaf spring set up look like?, My wife, New Truck Break-in and and 7 others
Boardmember, it takes a real man, one that's secure in his masculinity to make such a post, but more importantly you got me to thinking. I'm getting up in years and as such a little crippled up, my pot gut doesn't help either so it's getting difficult to clip my toenails. When the time comes I'd much rather have a cute pedicurist working on my toenails than going to a podiatrist.
1000 mile drive home, any time after that would be a good time to change out the factory fill oil and filter to get rid of any assembly lube, any fine casting material, etc. especially if this Sierra has sat on the lot for awhile.
Peruse your owners manual regarding GM roadside assistance, you should still be under bumper to bumper warranty and have the roadside assistance in effect. If your dealer doesn't come up with a fix before you leave on vacation, drive it anyway, unless your going to some swamp area in the boonies. If it should break down on you, the tow and loaner to continue your vacation will be on GM.
garagerog replied to mark97213's topic in 1973-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Square Body / Rounded Line PickupsWild guess here, but I take it this vehicle didn't have the factory radio with it, wiring to the left of the factory connector looks like a PO had installed an aftermarket radio unit. I see what looks like duct tape rather than electrical tape covering some of the splices, ackk! I had an 84 K20 HD camper special before my son shipped it off to Kodiak Island. Only time I got into dash wiring with it was to replace the toggle switch for the saddle tanks and that was only a 2 wire connector. Again a wild guess, but I'm going to guess a factory connector for a stock radio, pink wire hot, black ground, 2 different green shaded wires would be speaker wires, if not that, perhaps for the HVAC head unit, should be easy enough to check that out, but it looks like it has wires going to it.
Not to be nit picky but I believe the correct terminology nowadays with automatic transmissions is flex-plate, not flywheel. Modern engines must be better internally balanced as even the older automatics had a real flywheel with some meat on their bones to balance out engine harmonics. Compared to a real flywheel flex-plates look like they're made out of recycled tuna cans.
garagerog replied to Gorehamj's topic in The NewsroomDoubt that the 1500 axle would hold up to this, but lower weight tractor sled pulls might be interesting, rapid, multiple pulls with no cool off period in-between, last man, err, engine standing.
garagerog replied to Remofire's topic in 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HDMaybe it's the picture but the overload spring looks out of kilter, that is not parallel with the main leaf springs, maybe a trip to a frame/spring shop is in order. I drive a K1500 now so not familiar with the suspension set-ups on newer 3/4 tons, but I have to say that is a wussie looking spring package compared to the one I had on a 84 K20 camper special which had 7 rear leafs plus an overload for a total of 8. Solid front axle 4X4 that had 3 leaf springs in each corner, which was 1 more than non-camper special 3/4 and one tons. Thing was a beast, would bruise your kidneys just looking at the spring package, took at least 2000 lbs in the bed to make it semi-civilized, a 3000 lb. dry weight Conestoga camper, addition of 30 gallons of fresh water and gear and it rode just right. It is still doing duty with my son on Kodiak Island, Ak.
garagerog replied to aseibel's topic in Garage & Home, Snow Plowing, Landscaping, & Lawn CareCaveat here, I have no experience with a snow plow but thinking about air flow and I would think your best blade position would be at it's highest setting and the blade angled like you were plowing snow to the curb, you would get some airflow underneath and around the drivers side of the blade to the grill area. With the blade low and straight ahead all the air is going to be deflected around the sides and up and over the hood. You don't mention whether the trailer you have is open or enclosed, if enclosed I understand, if open and the blade just won't clear the trailer fenders from the side to drop it, you might be able to find an area where you can ramp up the front end of your truck in relation to the trailer. That is a small hill with a flat area on top where you would park your trailer. I've even seen grocery store loading docks where the trailer drops into a small pit. Good luck.
garagerog replied to jlrosine's topic in 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HDNeed a little clarification, you say you feel 4 shift points, 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, and then TQ lockup above 45 mph or so? If so it's operating correctly and yes 4th gear is OD. But if you meant you're only feeling 4 gears, 1,2,3,4 and don't see about a 100 rpm dropoff above 45 mph or so you may have an issue.
Stated oil capacity for almost any engine is a dry value, at a dealer or quick-change oil place you're lucky if the oil pan drain plug is out for 5 minutes, not near long enough for all the old oil to drain from the top end even with the oil up to operating temperature, that's why it's not uncommon for people to report an overfill of oil from either one of those places, they add the stated dry capacity. For you DIY's out there that have a weekend for a little experiment, try this, next time you change your oil, drain the oil for 5 minutes into your usual pan, replace the plug and replace the drain pan with a clean quart jar, remove the drain plug and let it drain overnight or for at least 12 hours into the quart jar, I wager you'll be surprised on how much more dirty oil you get out. The old sbc's with the drain plug on the driver's side of the oil pan you could get even more dirty oil out by ramping up the passenger side so the drain plug was at the lowest possible level. Oh, btw, just call me anal.
Slideway, if I'm reading Trailer Life's towing guide correctly they're showing 8300# as max tow weight for your setup, you might want to look there as you know more about your rig than I do. I'm guessing that the NADA guides took the easy way out or shortcut and just listed maximum tow weight for the hitch/receiver, 5000# rating is pretty much standard for the GM factory supplied hitch/receiver.
Terry, Colossus is pretty much spot on with the mileage you can expect, I inherited an 05 ext.cab K1500 with the L33 from my late father in 2016, got 17 mpg on the trip out from Wa. state to SC that summer, but that was 80mph cruise control interstate speed. I've gotten around 19 mpg or a little better here in the flatlands between 60-70 mph. Congrats on your low mileage acquisition, unless you have rust issues hold onto it for as long as possible, I plan to as I only have 48k on mine. The newer Silverado's probably get up to 25% better mileage, but you won't have to worry about AFM or transmission issues either.
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