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garagerog last won the day on December 29 2017

garagerog had the most liked content!

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  1. Owners manual is your friend, with a very expensive truck if it was me I would stick with a Dexos spec diesel oil to avoid any future warranty hassles.
  2. Old saying, "God doesn't count your time fishing against you".
  3. I have no idea how old your son is or what he races, involve him in your decision. If he's just a hobby racer or shows potential to moving up to heavier and faster cars and a lengthier season should make your decision much easier.
  4. I had an 84 K20 HD gasser with the factory outside the frame rail saddle tanks and I had to replace the dash switch. Been so long, but I think I simply used a paper clip between the switch leads to verify it was bad. Test the simple stuff first before digging into the solenoid(s) that switches the tank lines.
  5. Captain Obvious here, but assuming the transfer case somehow didn't get stuck in neutral, add that to the list of things you'll need to check out.
  6. If you're taking I-26 from SC to TN and aren't real familiar with that route, I can offer a few tips. Number 1 pull off at milepost 5 in SC to gas up before crossing into NC, gas much cheaper in SC, there's a Pilot/Flying J on your right with lots of room to maneuver with a trailer. Once you get into NC and across that gorge bridge, it's really a steep pull into the mountains until you get to Hendersonville, wouldn't be surprised if you wouldn't be down to 3rd gear or just use tow/haul. There are truck lanes in the steepest parts if you need to use them so take your time, and keep an eye on your transmission temperature, shouldn't be an issue this time of year. Once your past Asheville, NC on your way to TN it should be smooth sailing. Sorry if I'm just regurgitating info you already know.
  7. That and another question, was the clutch assembly replaced at the same time? Clutch discs, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, clutch slave cylinder and the flywheel re-surfaced? Assuming (and that's often a bad thing) that the transmission rebuild was done properly (e.g. bearings and synchros replaced properly) it's possible that it's an alignment issue causing binding, anything from the clutch assembly to the transmission cross-mount support.
  8. Nash and Studebaker had a hill holder way back in the day. I'm old but not quite that old, so I've never seen one, just regurgitating stories from my Dad's generation. Apparently with the clutch fully depressed the brakes were applied to leave the left foot free to engage the clutch and the right foot for the gas, brakes came off with the engagement of the clutch. Any of you that have operated a manual transmission lawn tractor have seen much the same thing with the clutch/brake pedal. Way back in the 60's my HS driver's training teacher said to always right foot brake even with an auto transmission, I pretty much ignored that and have always left-footed braked auto trans and right-footed braked manual transmissions and never had any trouble seamlessly moving between the two. Guess I'm just old, but I see no need for this "hill holder" feature on an auto transmission, just another techo wizardry gizmo to go wrong.
  9. Tanya, just an old man's view point. Sounds like something electrical to do with the starting circuit is shorting out, the dealership should start out by checking all the waterproof connectors followed up by electrical circuit testing, not just throwing new starters at your rig every time you're towed in. Even with modern starters, you shouldn't be leaning on the starter for more than 10-12 seconds at a time without a 30 second cool off period in between start attempts. With FI engines, anything over a 3 second start time is indicative that something is wrong, even if you don't have a CEL.
  10. Indeed, thanks for the reply! You sure brought out the shine in that old paint! If you would care to share your methods in the vehicle appearance forum, I'm sure many members could benefit and would appreciate it!
  11. OP, what a beaut and great barn find! But are you sure it's only a K10 and not a K20? The reason I ask is because of the roof marker lights, swing-out camper mirrors, and what appears to be the camper special emblem ( a teepee) on the cab trim. I can't make out the spring pack on the drivers side picture, but in any case what a beautiful truck and kudos on your find!
  12. NHTSA Recall ID Number : 20T002 Synopsis : Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company (Goodyear) is recalling certain Fortera HL tires, size P255/65R18. Due to a manufacturing issue, the tire may experience a belt seperation. A belt separation could lead to loss of vehicle control, increasing the risk of a crash. Goodyear will notify owners, and dealers will replace the tires, free of charge. The recall is expected to begin February 24, 2020. Owners may contact Goodyear customer service at 1-800-592-3267. Thank you, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration United States Department of Transportation This is a copy and paste of an email I received from NHTSA this morning. Although it says Fortera HL, I believe that must be a typo as I can't find any such tire listed, just the HT Not sure of the section width of your tires, guessing it's wider than the 255 in the recall, but thought I would pass it along anyway.
  13. Just an old man's opinion, but if it was me I would hold off on any exhaust modifications on that 2.7 turbo 4 unless you want your truck sounding like a fart can ricer.
  14. I have the same set-up in my 05, L33 with 3.42 gears. The L33 is a great engine, no it doesn't have the power and mpg's of the newer DI 5.3's, but none of the associated problems with the newer technology motors either. I can settle for 19 mpg flat land mileage and 17 mpg cross-country over the Rockies and Blue Ridge mtns. for the durability this package offers. Brian, your 06 is a keeper, use her hard when you need to, but baby her when you can and make her last, might be a parable in there somewhere, I dunno.
  15. I have an 05 K1500 and I can almost guarantee you that the blue fluid you're seeing is Auto-Trak II transfer case fluid. It's a nice blue color when new, turns to a brownish-green color with use. Whether you return to the dealership that did the transfer case service or take it elsewhere to have it checked out, is going to be a gut call on your part, how much trust you the dealership that did the service.
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