wingsaa

I debated listing this as I'd prefer to sell locally as I don't have the box it came in to ship it. Anyhow, here goes... I had this installed on my Yukon XL Denali and didn't care for the overall sound of the system. It's a true 3.5in and has the flapper valve installed. Side note... it has the flapper valve and I had it clamped open and it had more drone that I prefer when cruising vs with the flapper operating as normal. No clue. I drove from Dallas to Ohio with it clamped open and unclamped for the drive home. That's the extent to which it was installed so roughly 2,100 miles on this system. So that said, if anyone's interested I'm asking $1000 and as mentioned would prefer local pickup or could meet local'ish to the DFW area.

Bump if anyone is interested.

Sold.

*** Sold *** Front calipers off 2016 Yukon Denali. Comes with carriers and pads. Pads have full life left on them. Should work on any GM Truck from 2015 thru 2020 but would confirm to be sure.

Rear calipers and brackets with new gm pads. These are the PowerStop red. They need cleaned from brake dust and some fluid spill during removal but are like new. No longer needed. Comes with banjo bolt and copper washer but would recommend purchasing new washers to be safe. $180 shipped CONUS PayPal.

Selling my Corsa chrome tip as I decided to go change over to the Black PVD tip. Asking $200 shipped CONUS PayPal.

Okay so I hooked it up like 'tyler.frost92' and everything worked fine and has really good brake vacuum. One thing I noticed immediately however when I was checking the brake pressure was that I went very lean in my LTFT. I'm not really sure why. All of my connections are tight and there is no vacuum leak. I was just testing so I didn't remove the belt from the pump and just left it running. I don't see how that could be causing an issue unless somehow it's allowing unmetered air in that way somehow. I also capped the mechanical vacuum pump as well and it really ran like crap then with throttle tip-in at idle. I swapped back the mechanical pump hose to the booster and the LTFT's went back to normal. So is that it? Do I need to remove the belt from the mechanical pump so it doesn't run and then cap the port? If that is the case I should be fine to remove the pump then and plug oil ports. Just wanted to test everything before physically removing the pump. Edited update Okay, I'm going to eat a bit of my own crow. Just a reminder to check and double check... and in my case, triple check connections. I must have had a leak at one of the connections. I retightened everything and all is good! I guess Monday's can be good after all. lol

Yep. I've used it twice now and as you mentioned, just before I'm changing the oil. Get it out asap and in with fresh. I'm not saying that stuff doesn't work... I'm sure it does to some degree. I don't believe it gets to all the ports effectively however. That said, my next rodeo is to take the intake manifold off again sometime soon and clean the valves. I'll start with soaking with CRC and then cleaning and depending on the results may go ahead and walnut blast.

Pretty much right. [emoji4]

Here's my input from a few months ago. Bought the truck new (2016) and have been running a "popular" catch can from around 2/300 miles in with AFM disabled from the day I got it home.

Sold Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

Found the hoses...

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Price update bump. Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

Price update bump Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

Wednesday Bump

Wednesday Bump

I have a brand new/unused HPFP GM 12697966. This is the updated and current part number from GM. $220 shipped.

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Replied.

Decided to keep.

Thanks Bud!

Bump

Bump

UPR single valve catch can