Do you live in the rust belt? If so, check the front ABS speed sensors in the hubs. They can get rusty so the sensor backs out. You might be able to take them out, clean off the rust, and put the sensors back in. Or, it might be time for new hubs anyway. Or, of course, it could be something else... You need to get the codes read (which would also indicate whether the problem was a front speed sensor).
06 LBZ is considered by many to be "the best Duramax" so you got a nice inheritance. (But I still like my 2004.5 LLY a lot.) The older Allisons have seals that may not be compatible with Dex-VI (will eventually leak). Allison changed to compatible ones sometime in 2006. There is a serial number cutoff if you want to crawl under to get yours and then research it on the internet to see if you're ok with Dex-VI. If you have the service done at a dealer they will use Dex-VI. A TES-295 rated (and tested/approved is even better) ATF is the best (according to Allison) for all years, and is compatible with the seals for all years. A genuine Allison filter is well made and reasonably priced ($13 on Amazon, or $20 if you need the magnet . . . oh yeah, the spin-on has a magnet that should be re-used but sometimes gets thrown away by those who don't notice it). As Davester points out, drain and fill with an external spin-on filter is the best route to go. It will take about 7.4 quarts of ATF, which is about half of the total. At 170*F the proper fill level is about 1/4th of the way up the hot hash area on the dip stick. If you overfill, the Allison will run hot. BTW, NEVER flush an Allison with an external machine. There are passive methods that are ok but aren't necessary. If you feel strongly about replacing more fluid, simply drain/fill, run it around a bit, then drain/fill again.
So this is your first experience with "limp" mode? The computer is always monitoring a lot of stuff. For fairly benign codes it might just light up the Check Engine Light (CEL). For really benign codes I think it might not even do that, and just store the codes. For more serious codes to really get your attention, it not only lights up the CEL, but goes into limp mode and won't rev over 2000 rpm and/or limit your speed, but it will let you "limp home", as you did. [<<<edited to be more clear] On mine, there is a notorious problem with the injector connectors. When one goes open, it throws the code, lights up the CEL, and then shuts down half of the cylinders. Yes, it gets your attention. ASAP, get the codes read (many auto supply stores will do it for free). It's the only way to know what's wrong.
You only asked about maintenance items . . . The only thing I choked on was flushing the transmission. Never flush an Allison. Drain/fill and external spin-on is recommended by Allison unless the pan is dropped for some other problem. Power flushing may ruin things, although "passive fluid replacement" just using the transmission pump is ok . . . but isn't necessary. You can do several drain/fill cycles if you feel strongly about a more complete replacement, and consider using a TES-295 rated ATF like Transynd or Mobil Delvac ATF. Oh, and DON'T use Dex-VI like GM says because it may eventually lead to leaking seals. (Dex-III actually is still available, sometimes without saying Dex-III, like "for 2005 and older GM...". There are 11 grease fittings in the front end. If you want to ask about heading off problems, then you need to say if it's LB7 (8th vin digit is "1") or LLY (8th vin digit is "2"). If it's LLY then I have a pretty long list of things to check. I know, I've got one!
Hmm, you could look up the year of your truck. It says you drive a "2104" 3500 HD. If that means 2004, then the answer is No, you don't have one . . . unless someone did the DIY mod to add it. I don't know about 2014. It's not really hard to remove the glove box to check.
I'm not familiar with 2008, but at least ideas from the previous generations... 1. Often low voltage, triggered by big load when starting. Batteries (even though they still work to start engine) or (sigh) a bad connection or ground somewhere. 2. I swear it's a secret feature planted into all vehicles for the last 20 years. I don't trust any vehicle (any brand) not to lock itself, so I always at least roll the window down if I want to shut the door with the key inside. Call me paranoid but I haven't been locked out since. 3. The blend doors go bad, or they report positions that confuse the computer control, so they go to heat for "safety" (you won't freeze to death). Mine has always done this a few times a year. Usually I can just turn the climate control system off, wait 30 seconds, and turn it on and it will reset. If you cut power to it, then restore power, don't touch climate controls for a few minutes so it can calibrate itself. You might have hoped GM would have fixed this in later years, but... 4. Hmmm, again a bad electrical connection. You might replace the ignition switch (not the tumbler, but the electrical part). The older GMs had problems. I carry a spare.
jake111 replied to planttech's topic in 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HDAssuming the later years are the same as my 2004.5, the A/C goes on when in recirc mode. I should say the the A/C goes on in stealth mode when in recirc, i.e., the A/C snowflake does not go on, but A/C is definitely on. So, if your recirc indicator is going off/on, then the A/C will follow it off/on. Unfortunately, I don't have a clue as to why it would switch in/out of recirc.
My understanding from discussions years ago was that the blend door actuator(s?) (or the computer controlling it/them) gets confused because of, probably, "position out of range". An experienced programmer would have handled this, but I don't think GM used one, so it goes into a "safe" mode . . . full-on heat so you don't freeze to death. Sometimes you can just shut off the climate control, wait maybe 30 seconds, and turn it back on and all is good (mine usually cleared doing this although it hasn't screwed up for a couple of years now). Sometimes you can just shut off the truck, wait maybe 30 seconds, and turn it back on. Sometimes you have to pull the a/c or climate control fuse (there are youtube videos), wait a minute (maybe turn on the key and then turn it off, but not sure this is needed, then turn off the key), then put the fuse back in. In all 3 methods above DON'T touch any climate control buttons for several minutes. In some cases (or maybe only the last one above) the actuators are re-calibrating; changing the controls messes it up. Or, an actuator door has gone bad and needs to be replaced. I haven't done this but understand it might be a difficult job because the actuators are buried.
I'm not completely sure, but I don't think it's plug'n'play. Even if the wires are there I think it still requires programming (BCM?). I have had the power extending camper mirrors on my 2004.5 since new. Here are the things that aren't so great: - They tend to stick, especially when they sit in one position for very long. Then somebody needs to help unstick it to use the extending/retracting feature. If setting and leaving in the same position then this isn't so important. - The passenger side mirror is not convex and creates a HORRIBLE blind spot. I bought a convex stick-on (about 4"x5") to make it usable.
Southern California and you want to delete the EGR? I guess if you keep all of the parts so you can re-install it every 2 years for a smog check you might get away with it. We have smog checks, you know... I think you'll have to go to Arizona to get it done by a shop; pretty sure it's illegal for any shop in California to delete the EGR.
Maintenance free; requires no lube additives. Maintenance free??? Really??? Yeah, I have a Toyota with "lifetime" ATF, which appears to mean until the transmission destroys itself. I changed the gear oil in my G80 gov-loc at 18k miles and I wished I had done it sooner. The gear oil glistened with metal. That's normal when a diff breaks in. After the initial break-in, every 50k miles is probably sufficient in most cases (more often if you tow a lot; less often if all you do is drive down the highway). Requires no lube additives??? Actually, the G80 gov-loc has some friction plates that are used to engage the locker and they work much better with the right amount of friction modifier; not too much and not too little. GM's gear lube "grape juice" has the proper additives and "requires no lube additives", which more likely means "don't add more". Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil says "LS" because it has some friction modifiers in it, and it also works very well in the G80.
As someone mentioned above, Mobil 1 synthetic 75-90 is an excellent choice for both the front and rear diffs. It's also what I have used for the last 10 years. However, the front diff vent cover on 2001-2003 might not be fully compatible with synthetic gear oil. Why? I haven't a clue. The so-called incompatible vent covers were black. The compatible ones are white, so you can easily check if you have one. Or you can just try it. Or you can buy a white cover like from here: http://www.merchant-automotive.com/12479390-White-Vent-Cap.aspx(or if links not allowed, Merchant Automotive white vent cap Part #12479390)
Since it worked for a long time, and it's doing what my '04 often does . . . door latch. If you open the door and the radio doesn't shut off, you can try sticking a screw driver in the door latch and vigorously jiggle the latch up/down. At least on mine, it will get whatever contact is in there to work and the radio will go off, usually. Some, including me, have tried shooting WD-40 or a penetrating oil into the latch to try to get to work better. I also tried readjusting the striker bar a little higher (seemed to work at first, then not so much). Actually, mine has started working again (but I'll soon regret saying that, I'm sure).
If the driver's side brake isn't working well (rust problems, not sliding, bad caliper), then it may very well drag because it doesn't "float" back to free-wheeling. And then it may not work very well when you hit the brakes. The passenger side works and so it pulls to the right. At least this is one theory.
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