jake111

Thanks newdude! By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting. I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting. This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed. Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior). On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference. Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up. But I also don't notice differences in shifting. For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway. Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother. Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed? Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages. However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories. It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking. Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking. Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking. It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior). I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper. Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4. Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!). Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion. The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time). But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator. I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop. One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable). Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode. I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.

I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper. The "smart" charging drives me nuts. Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts. Then it drops back down after stopping or going again. Consistently! The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING! Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging. 2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear. Things straighten out and I end up in L10. Sometimes I leave it there for a while. Is there any difference between L10 and D?

Do you mean like this? Recalls 2024 Chevrolet HD - Troubleshooting, Warranty & Recalls - GM-Trucks.com

Unfortunately, it's late at night so I won't go out to look . . . and my memory might be wrong here! I *think* I used those "washers" as keepers on the back side of the holes. But I also think I had to drill them out a little because I couldn't get them on the fasteners. I remember being confused in trying to figure out how they were meant to work. After putting them all in, I also put some black sealant of some kind to glue/hold them in place as a backup. I also found some (one?) of the holes lined up behind a frame brace so I couldn't put on a washer/keeper. So that one is just sort of glued. A year and a half later it's all solid. I'll try to look tomorrow!

I am using a ScanGauge II. A ScanGauge III is nicer but it's bigger and I couldn't figure out where I wanted to mount it. I mounted the smaller ScanGauge II where it covers the bottom part of the tach (who cares about 500 rpm most of the time?) and it covers up some idiot lights. I use it to display (actual) engine temp, engine oil temp, transmission gear (1-10), and transmission fluid temp. I checked engine oil pressure and voltage but the dash gauges were close enough (unlike engine temp), so I display the ones I listed above. L8T gasser.

1) The 6.6L L8T gasser already calls for synthetic 5w-30. That's what should already be in it. 2) The L8T does not have DFM. If one cylinder is guzzling, they're all guzzling. Your article is probably talking about the L87 in the 1500 trucks and other models, and yes, 0s-20 was too thing and caused big problems.

(posted twice for some reason. please delete)

I added a camera to the back of my slide-in camper. It helps fill in the blind spots and to see other vehicles coming up from behind.

If you had or bought an OBD-II monitor that can show engine oil temp, you might get a better idea of what's going on. I use a Scangauge II, which for the L8T (at least for 2024, you should check with the monitor support) has: Scangauge PIDs Description TXD RXF RXD MTH NAME Engine Oil Temp (°F) 33F122301C C4620530361C 3008 00090005FFD8 EOT

Here's a thread... I'm not sure which entriy this landed on, but the entire thread is full of ideas.

For many, many years, we have had a bike rack on the back. With hitch extensions, I could make a big enough gap to open the camper door and get in/out with the bikes mounted. I welded a step (black tongue sticking out under scissor steps) so we could step there, then on top of the hitch extension, and into the camper. As needed, we used a little step stool on the ground to get to the hitch step. With knee problems/replacement, wife can't yet step up that high, so I had to figure out a way to get more steps. Below are the pictures. The scissor step that came with the camper can rest on the hitch extension, and I built a wood structure to support and hold it in place. Works great and (most importantly) wife is happy. I added Timbrens in the back. It raised (at the axle) the truck about an inch, which is what I wanted. Yes, it rides just a tiny bit rougher . . . a lot like a 3500!! Hit some decently gusty winds in the mountains on the last trip and I think these made a big difference. Chuck mentioned a concern about only having 1 propane tank. I had that concern 19 years ago. Over the years I realized that I carry propane adapters and a spare 1 lb. canister. In the rare event you ran out of propane, just hook up the little canister. It'll run the refrigerator and heat water on the stove for a few days. Ok, probably can't run the heater or water heater. Actually, I also carry a 1 gallon propane tank for my propane generator that I never use. I've even had a stray thought about taking out one of my propane tanks and using the space for a 2nd house battery . . . still just a stray thought. If anyone is wondering, the tie-down strap in the lower picture puts tension on the bike rack so it doesn't rattle around. When bikes are on rack, another tie-down helps stabilize them (just snug tension).

For my "problem", I'm 99% sure it was me covering up the light sensor on top of the dash. Doh!!

Thanks for giving this some thought. Even the WT trucks have automatic headlights, just not LED headlights. I will check further, but uh-oh, I think I may have had something on the dash that partially covered the light sensor. I didn't think that was it because the dash and infotainment screen didn't just get dim, they were off. But this might be yet another case of operator error! I will check further and let you know how it turns out. I searched the internet for problems after that particular update. The ones that showed up were far worse than what I experienced (like their truck not starting). A solution that worked for some was to disconnect the battery, let it sit, then reconnect. So I also did that, but now I'm leaning toward covering the light sensor as the issue.

2024 2500 WT Gasser, less than 6k miles. I've had it on a few trips in the last 1-1/2 years (3k miles, 1k miles) without any issues. This week, on a short trip (<100 miles) the backlights on the dash would go off (gauges still worked, just hard to see), along with the infotainment screen (again, dark but could make out it was working), and lights on the climate control buttons (seemed like it worked, just couldn't tell what was on/off). This would happen seemingly at random times, and on return trip home it didn't happen for the first hour. At that point we tried to roughly time it, and the outages seemed to last about 4 minutes (but only 2 occurrences on way home). A couple of weeks ago I let GM do an over-the-air update (N25-F163BU). I hate to be suspicious, but... Or maybe it's a coincidence? I peaked at wiring diagrams. Egad, not like the good old days. Any ideas? I'm pretty sure I have to take my slide-in camper off to take truck to a dealer. Unless these things have super good logs, I would expect a "cannot duplicate" response. I guess I can call them (sigh). Take it out and make a video (sigh).

From 2024 owner's manual, about page 206: "The resulting figure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the "******" amount equals 1400 lbs. and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs. (1400-750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs.)" ...and... "Subtract Occupant Weight @ 68 kg (150 lb) × 5 = 340kg (750 lb)" So yes, because we all weigh an average of 150 lbs. While my camper sticker (2446 lbs.) is technically a little more than what's in the glove box (2427 lbs.), it's just wife and me totaling about 340 lbs., instead of 750. Why, that leaves 410 lbs. for food, tools, clothes, and lots of other stuff. My camper weight sticker (what's left that I can read), includes fresh water and propane and something I can't make out (something about the refrigerator).