Does your vehicle have a driver profile set up which also stores your preferences in the cloud? "The information that goes to the Cloud. This includes most of your embedded Navigation settings (if equipped) and audio settings, including your Favorites." This allows you to set up your profile in another GM vehicle you own. You can also try switching the profile to "Guest" to see if it makes any difference. Let us know if you have any luck with this. https://my.gmc.com/how-to-support/entertainment-connections/displays-radio/driver-preferences
The part number listed on the box seems correct but that panel definitely different from the one on my 2020 Sierra Denali. There are two screws in each section on my panel. If you compare the plastic section from the the top edge to the top of the speaker grill, it appears shorter on your new part. How about the length of it from end to end? Has GM announced Kicker tailgate speakers for the Silverado Multiflex tailgate or even another truck like the Hummer or Colorado? Maybe it's been re-boxed and you have the wrong part. Hope your dealership can resolve it. Keep us posted. Here's a pic of my speakers.
Yeah Kodiakdenali’s do appear to have a cooler temp than the ones I used. I know that you can get these LED bulbs pretty cheap online at about a dollar a piece but after reading customer feedback of many, I chose to pay the premium price of $10 each for the Oznium brand. Decent reviews and they appear to be of higher quality than some of the others. I really hope they are because I don’t feel like switching them out if they ever fail. I have the 11mm cool white which are advertised as 12,000K but that may be an error with advertising. They are probably in the 5000K-6000K range of true white light. The 11mm is the diameter of the actual clear lens without the flange. Don’t get the smaller 6mm ones because they are very dim and don’t put out any real usable light. They are likely best as ambient light for dash pockets, foot wells or door handles. Here’s a screenshot of the ones I ordered from Amazon.
Thank you kodiakdenali for posting your upgrade. I got some similar LEDs in the mail today and completed the upgrade too (based on your instructions). Pretty simple as long as you have the correct Torx bit. I also tapped the gray wire for power and grounded to the support brace this panel mounts to. The additional illumination is just what I wanted. The factory map lights were dim and mostly aimed at the seats or your lap area. You couldn't see anything on or in the center console too well. Now I see all over and my passenger can actually read with it. I like that they are controlled independently by the dome light switch and also illuminate when you unlock the truck or first enter it. They auto fade or turn off after a few seconds as the map lights do.
Yes, an easy install. I had enough room to work under the truck without having to jack it up. One of the issues I had was deciding the orientation of the end-links, which end was up and which was down. The instruction diagram showed the threaded end at the bottom and another diagram showed it at the top. I ended up putting the threaded end at the top. It comes with four black bushing and four metal sleeves that go through them. Take note that the bushings have different sized holes and the metal sleeves are also two different sizes. The four bolts that run through these bushing were also different lengths. I had to use the longer two bolts at the actual sway bar connection. Also, the two brake lines on the inside of the driver's side frame are held in place by a gray plastic clip snapped to the top of the frame. I had to unsnap it from the frame and shift the clip forward about half and inch to get enough clearance for the frame U bolt to fit where I placed it. Be sure to insulate the brake lines from the Ubolt so it doesn't cause any damage to it over time. I attached the bar to the axle first and then determined the best location to mount the frame Ubolts. Last step was connecting the end-links to the sway bar ends. There are three holes on each end. I chose the stiffer setting. If you have any additional questions, let me know and I'll try to get you an answer.
Correct. After comparing Normal drive mode and Sport mode, I didn’t really notice a big improvement with handling or sway control. I wish sport mode would have dampened the ride more than it actually does. I do notice the power steering becomes stiffer and the shift points seem later in higher rpm. In sport mode the truck still rolled too much for my taste while turning corners at normal speed. This rear sway bar made the biggest difference over driving modes. Here’s another example I noticed today when driving with my small dog standing on the back seat (on a doggy mat over the seat). In the past he would get flung around when he tried to stand up because the truck leaned to the point where he couldn’t get a grip on the mat to brace his legs during normal turns. When I drove him today, I noticed that he was able anticipate the turns and brace himself. He stood up on the mat during most of the drive and didn’t seem to have a difficult time with his balance. This is likely due to the truck keeping even more level on turns and curves. At this time I believe my decision to install the bar was a good one.
Thanks. I believe that even with the straight axle the sway bar is preventing the truck body/frame from twisting against angle of the axle. Say for instance when you are making a sharp left turn, your right front corner usually dips and the left rear usually raises. The sway bar prevents the left rear from lifting and does it's best to keep the frame and body parallel with the axle. I'm just glad it works and improved the ride.
Even though I have the trailering package and Adaptive Ride Control, I always wondered why my Sierra swayed much more than my 2018 Tahoe. Even my passengers would comment about the bouncy swaying ride when making turns. I recently looked under the truck to see how thick the sway bars were and realized there was no rear sway bar. The Tahoe, Yukon and Escalade come standard with a rear sway bar. It didn't take long for me to bite the bullet and pay the steep price of $500 for the Hellwig 7780 rear sway bar kit. Ordered from Amazon without Prime but still arrived drop shipped from Atlanta in two days. I had the chance to install it last night. Like others on this forum have mentioned, the instructions were just about useless and lacked details on different bushings, sleeves and two different end link bolts provided. One was course threaded and the other was fine threaded and slightly longer. The shorter bolt was too short to be used on the end link and over compressed the bushing after starting the lock nut. I basically figured out how to install the kit by a diagram provided and examining posted images from others. I pre-assembled the parts to make sure everything was included. It was a fairly easy job only took a couple hours. I did have two metal brake lines running on the inside of the frame on the driver's side. Be mindful when placing the U bolt over the frame on the driver's side and make certain you have a wide enough gap between the lines and the frame. Overall, the difference in handling and lack of sway was immediately noticeable even with an empty bed. The truck stays level on while cornering and on curves while the ride is still smooth and comfortable. Even my passengers noticed it and said it "no longer feels like a dune buggy". To me it was worth the price for the upgrade. Here are some images for those who are curious.
I have a 128GB stubby drive plugged into the usb port under the lid of the center console. Pretty sure I created genre folders on my drive and just copied and pasted the music files from my itunes collection into the appropriate folders. You don't need to place the music into folders so they can go directly into the root directory. Most of my music are ripped from my CD's. You can also rename your usb drive with your computer (DENALI USB) or what ever you choose and that name will show up as a music source option. The drive will have to be indexed by the infotainment system to sort all of the data and you'll see the progress bar on the screen. The more music you have, the longer it may take. The music can be sorted infotainment system by song or group name etc. It plays the music just fine but I do notice some delay in response when I press skip track forward or back. You might as well spend some time ripping your CD collection and putting your tunes on the usb drive. It's worth the convenience.
Probably caused by crossing tire sides when rotating the tires. I always prefer to keep them on the same side (front to rear), not the (cross to front) pattern. Even with non-directional tires. I experienced the issue years ago on another vehicle. When tires are driven spinning one direction, the force stretches the tire and the steel belts are pulled into a position within the rubber. There’s a lot of force here over thousands of miles so the tire eventually takes “shape”. If rotating the tires to another side of the vehicle changes the spin direction, those steel belts can get pulled in different directions ultimately causing the tire to take a new shape becoming out of round or having high spots in the tread. You’ll hear lots of noise and the ride quality will suffer. “Rumble strips”
No issue with the Bose crossover point which is probably around 60-70. I am able to set a lower frequency on the aftermarket sub amp. Sound output is more than enough that my permanent bass setting on the radio is minus 7. This allows music to be played a little louder without clipping and distortion.
Don’t give up yet. Looking back on your previous post, this concerns me. “Both putting out approclx 6.1v” Hoping you didn’t tap into the center console lighting wires or something else. Were your sub wires green and black like in my images? They should be a little thicker than most other wires, like around 16 or 14 gauge. Without the aftermarket amp, hook the wires directly to a speaker to see if the cone vibrates with music. Do this briefly at low volume since you are changing the overall impedance with a second speaker. Let us know what you find.
Some thoughts. Check the PAC LOC wiring. I had an older 2ch LOC a while back that required a different combination of input wires to be used if running in mono. Some LOCs require a dedicated ground connection. Are you using a stereo or mono amp? If stereo, check to make sure you are on the same channel (left input/left output) etc. Double check any other settings on your amp, switches and gains. If you have a dual voice coil sub, be sure you are connected to terminals on the same VC.
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