I don't think a dealer will touch it because it is not an accessory provided by GM or dealerships. I installed it myself and I don't recall having to take anything apart during the install. You just mount the hardware to the vehicle in certain locations. So far I can't see any reason a sway bar could be detrimental to the ARC or would void your warranty. GM chose not to include a rear sway bar on their 1500 trucks (probably to save cost) but I notice that all of the recent Tahoes come with rear sway bars. I had a 2017 and a 2020 Tahoe with factory rear sway bars and both of them handled corners with a lot less sway much better than my brand new 2020 Sierra Denali before I added the Hellwig to the rear.
Yes, the rear sway bar prevents a lot of that front end dip and body roll around the ramps and it makes it seem like all four tires are planted more equally. I only added the rear Hellwig and there's a factory bar already on the front. Traction still feels balanced, no noticeable oversteer or understeer around a quick corner under acceleration.
If you are satisfied with your existing amount of sway, you may not want an aftermarket sway bar. Your driving style may not require it either. My truck has the ARC and Max Tow Package. My ride comfort didn’t change and it doesn’t seem to compromise the ARC system at all. I feel the rear sway bar made an improvement that was most noticeable for the investment. It added more confidence in cornering and evasive maneuvers if necessary. On and off ramps are easier at normal speeds because there is less leaning going on. If you do decide to go with a sway bar, take note that there are two different kits. One for the standard height trucks and another for the higher AT4s with the 2” lift.
Although this sway bar was a litter pricier than most, it was the best upgrade I have done so far and well worth the money. You will notice the improvement immediately and enjoy driving your truck even more. I recall being a little disappointed with the amount body roll it had when I first bought my truck but now it corners so much better. Enjoy your upgrade.
I think I experienced the same issues you had but just didn't mention it. Sorry about that. I had the leftover black washers too. Glad you got it all figured out and are enjoying the cornering with confidence. Great job!
As you can see from the image, I installed mine using the 3rd hole from each end of the bar. This is the stiffest setting and there are no drawbacks or regrets. The ride and suspension seem just fine. I have inspected everything a few times since the install and have not had to re-tighten anything. Feel free to ask if you have any questions on it. Good luck with you install.
The dash speaker plug is different from the door speaker plugs so they won’t work. Don’t cut off your dash speaker plugs. Just tap into each wire and extend it to your replacement speakers. I did this a few days ago. Use wire strippers to score the wire insulation behind the factory plug and pulled the insulation to each side to expose the copper wiring. Be careful not to damage any copper strands. Wrap your new wiring around the exposed copper and solder it. Seal it up and you’re done. The factory plugs will still be there in case you ever need them again.
Thanks bluemonstercali, you made a wise choice in returning the 690s. I installed all of the speakers which are running off of the stock Bose amp. It appears that the audio signal to each channel from the Bose amp has set frequency cutoffs. The factory 2.5" Bose dash speakers do not have any crossover capacitors that I could see so my guess is that the amp is only sending them high frequencies. I replaced the 2.5" dash speakers with the 1" JL tweeters. These dash speakers provide most of the mids and highs for the soundstage, including vocals in music. I want the voice to sound like an actual person in front of you. I first tried the JL tweeters with the included inline crossover. I did not like the sound with the JL crossovers. They cut out too much of the upper mid frequencies and cut the output volume in about half. Vocals did not sound natural because the tweeters were only producing very high frequencies and voices sounded tinny. I ended up removing the crossovers and relying on the cutoff set by the Bose amp. If anything, the mids and highs can be a little too harsh at high volume for my taste. I keep the tone setting on the radio at zero for the mid and the high. In installed coaxial 6X9s with tweeters in the front doors. There is zero high frequencies coming out of these. They sound about the same as the Bose speakers from the factory and may even be lower in volume due to a difference in Ohms from the Bose. These JL 6X9s produced a muddied mid-range with a little bass. (No treble). For anyone planning on replacing the front door speakers, I recommend not spending much on a high end speaker if you are going to use the Bose amp. Buy a component 6X9 set and put the tweeters in the dash. I believe the Bose amp is blocking all low frequencies to the rear door speakers. You can maximize the bass setting on the radio and the rear doors still only put out mids and high frequencies. I installed the 6.5" coaxial speakers in the rear doors and it seemed to make the most noticeable improvement with crispier highs. As I mentioned earlier, you can't get any bass out of these no matter what bass setting you set on the radio. These speakers will mostly benefit the rear passengers since high frequencies are directional as they are pointing at their ankles. I recommend getting coaxial speakers for the rear doors. Overall I am happy with the upgrades but the only thing I would do differently is not spend the extra cash for 6X9 speakers with tweeters for the front doors. The most noticeable improvement is the clarity and volume of the mids and highs. I'm not into it but the JL tweeters advertise a little more than the Bose tweeters letting folks know you have something aftermarket in there. One last thing, I do recommend you buy those protecting speaker baffles for the doors. The factory door speaker brackets had a "roof" overhang to protect the speaker and wiring connector. I observed water spots on the roof which either came from rain or washing the car. The baffles are foam and totally enclose the rear of the speakers to protect them from the elements. They also form a seal between the plastic speaker bracket and the metal door panel.
I just received these JL speakers per the recommendation in another thread. I got them from Crutchfield who included all of the mounting bracket adapters and door speaker wire adapters at no cost. These will be replacing the stock Bose speakers in my 2020 Sierra and they will be running off of the stock Bose amp. Will let you know what I find and my thoughts on the improvement or not. Has anyone else competed a similar install and running them with the stock Bose amp?
I'm critical of my work too and couldn't settle with the original shades of brown so I hit it with some dye of my own blend of black and brown. The color tone is much better compared to the previous colors. Check out how light the original carpeting was in this pic compared to how it is now. Need to shave down some of the matted carpeting now to smooth it out again.
Thanks for the compliments. I’m working on dying the carpeting to a darker shade of brown to get a better match to to brown interior color. Picked up some black dye to blend with the chocolate brown dye. Will see how it comes out. This sealed setup is still sounding sweet with music from all genres. You’ve got rock, pop, bass/electronic, country, R&B, and then there is RUSH. I listen to it all. A kick drum sounds and feels like a live kick drum. You feel it in your chest and it is clean without that inaccurate boominess. After some testing and tweaking, I now keep the bass tone level on the radio set to -12 which is as low as it goes. Amp gain setting is at about 40% on the dial and I have a Kicker volume knob on the dash that stays at 50%. My mid and treble tones on the radio are both set at zero (no increase or decrease). When I turn the main volume to about 70-80% which is loud, there is no distortion or shrilly sounds from the mids or highs. This single 10” sub has more than enough bass for me with the Bose system. I’m more interested in an amazing sounding system on the inside of the truck rather than advertising my sound system to the outside world. Priorities change as you grow older. If anyone else decides to build a compact sub system like this, I would definitely recommend using a subwoofer like a Solo-baric that is specifically designed to work in very small enclosures. Save some space for storage.
LOL, thanks for pointing that out. The interior has some trim, floor mats and leather that is like a dark chocolate brown. I ordered the darkest carpeting I could find and when it arrived I noticed it was more like a creamed mocha coffee. I have since applied some browner dye to it and this made it a shade darker but not dark enough so it now looks like milk chocolate. I may need to blend some black into the brown dye to get a dark chocolate color and hit it one more time. It's easy wipe on, wipe off and let dry with a bottle of Rit dye. Here's a pic of the box after the first dye.
I'm not using any signal processor. The Kicker CX amps will accept high or low level input at the same left and right RCA inputs. For my audio signal, I tapped directly to the Bose Sub speaker wire at the subwoofer and then ran that wire to the amp. No high/low converter required. I believe that signal from the Bose sub wire has already been processed/crossed over by the Bose amp so I'm only receiving a low frequency audio signal. GS357 S - Thanks for the compliments. TSchevy - I have a 12" solo-baric collecting dust too. I think that would be a tough fit under the seat so I used the 10" that was also collecting dust. I built this as a challenge project and it took a while to complete because there is just not enough time in the world anymore. Sorry, I'm won't be selling these to order. For anyone who plans on building their own, I did utilize the three mounting bolts from the jack and jack tools to secure the box in place. There are two bolts coming out of the floor on the passenger side and a single bolt on the driver side. I created a bracket by putting a bend in a piece of steel and bolting it to the bottom of the box. If you look carefully at the pic, you will see that the black bracket is recessed flush with the the carpet on the bottom of the box. I created this recessed area with a router and there is a little side hook. This bracket goes to the bolt on the driver side and is tightened down with a nut and washer. This may help keep the box in place in case of a minor forward collision. The amp rack slides and locks into place from the storage compartment side. I created a track that the amp board slides into. The carpeting around the rack is so tight that it keeps it locked into place so no screws are required. I can easily slide it open if I need to adjust any setting on the amp and then tap it back into place. Here are a few additional pics for you to study.
I initially sketched out the general shape just to figure out how much wood I would need. Half inch MDF works fine for a 10" sub. Held together with Gorilla wood glue and brad nails. Here are some pics from the build so you have an idea of the shape of the bottom plate and how I did the front corners.
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