I have a 128GB stubby drive plugged into the usb port under the lid of the center console. Pretty sure I created genre folders on my drive and just copied and pasted the music files from my itunes collection into the appropriate folders. You don't need to place the music into folders so they can go directly into the root directory. Most of my music are ripped from my CD's. You can also rename your usb drive with your computer (DENALI USB) or what ever you choose and that name will show up as a music source option. The drive will have to be indexed by the infotainment system to sort all of the data and you'll see the progress bar on the screen. The more music you have, the longer it may take. The music can be sorted infotainment system by song or group name etc. It plays the music just fine but I do notice some delay in response when I press skip track forward or back. You might as well spend some time ripping your CD collection and putting your tunes on the usb drive. It's worth the convenience.
Probably caused by crossing tire sides when rotating the tires. I always prefer to keep them on the same side (front to rear), not the (cross to front) pattern. Even with non-directional tires. I experienced the issue years ago on another vehicle. When tires are driven spinning one direction, the force stretches the tire and the steel belts are pulled into a position within the rubber. There’s a lot of force here over thousands of miles so the tire eventually takes “shape”. If rotating the tires to another side of the vehicle changes the spin direction, those steel belts can get pulled in different directions ultimately causing the tire to take a new shape becoming out of round or having high spots in the tread. You’ll hear lots of noise and the ride quality will suffer. “Rumble strips”
No issue with the Bose crossover point which is probably around 60-70. I am able to set a lower frequency on the aftermarket sub amp. Sound output is more than enough that my permanent bass setting on the radio is minus 7. This allows music to be played a little louder without clipping and distortion.
Don’t give up yet. Looking back on your previous post, this concerns me. “Both putting out approclx 6.1v” Hoping you didn’t tap into the center console lighting wires or something else. Were your sub wires green and black like in my images? They should be a little thicker than most other wires, like around 16 or 14 gauge. Without the aftermarket amp, hook the wires directly to a speaker to see if the cone vibrates with music. Do this briefly at low volume since you are changing the overall impedance with a second speaker. Let us know what you find.
Some thoughts. Check the PAC LOC wiring. I had an older 2ch LOC a while back that required a different combination of input wires to be used if running in mono. Some LOCs require a dedicated ground connection. Are you using a stereo or mono amp? If stereo, check to make sure you are on the same channel (left input/left output) etc. Double check any other settings on your amp, switches and gains. If you have a dual voice coil sub, be sure you are connected to terminals on the same VC.
I don’t know enough about how the ANC works with GM but I suspect that it sends an audio signal out of the speakers including the sub to cancel out road noise. So far while driving around, I haven’t heard the sub doing anything weird or muting itself out. I’m certain you will be fine with a small setup not meant to blare out the cars next to you in traffic.
I did not have to bypass the ANC for my minimal setup with just a small single 10” sub supplementing the existing oem sub. I don’t believe ANC is canceling any of my audio output and likely determines my sub’s output as music instead of noise. I did not need a remote turn on signal for my amp because it already has built-in auto power on sensing the audio signal coming from the Bose sub speaker I tapped into.
I have a 2020 w/ Bose and was able to locate and access the sub speaker wire beneath the center console without removing the console or any seats. I haven’t seen anyone post on this method yet so here it is. Remove the plastic side panel from the center console on the passenger side. Think it was held on by several panel clips. Slide the passenger seat all the way back to expose a carpet seam at the bottom of the console. Pull the carpet flap and peer under the console towards the rear of the vehicle with a flashlight. You should see a thin harness wrapped in black tape anchored to the floor with zip ties. There are only two wires in the tape. You should be able to get a hand or panel tool in there to wiggle the anchors loose from a threaded stud or bolt. There wasn’t much slack in the harness but try to pull as much out as you can. Carefully snip the black fabric tape exposing a green and a blue wire. I can’t remember which wire was positive or negative. You will probably have to research wiring diagrams or someone may recall. I scored and slid the wire insulation to the side exposing the copper wire and then soldered speaker wire to it. Sealed it and taped it back up and put it all back together. Ran the speaker wire under the passenger seat rails inside a seam in the carpet to the passenger door sill. Then ran it inside the factory wiring track along the passenger side under the door sills to the rear seat where my LOC is located. This may be difficult to follow so here are a couple images. I hope this helps out the installers out there.
If you have the Bose system and are only trying to get the audio signal for a sub, you could just tap into the Bose sub's speaker wires below the center console instead of a door speaker signal. You don't have to remove the center console to access it and it was't too difficult to locate in my 2020. In addition, the signal has already been through a crossover so no highs are coming through.
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