mrjulian416

Oil and filter threads are always a good time. Especially when the BITOG discussion forums are cited as a definitive, technical source. Countless single-data-point examples of why something is the best ever, or will destroy your engine... "they changed the shade of blue on the filter can, use at your own risk!"... "I've heard they changed the design to only have 64 pleats, total junk!"... "They're hidin' the NOACK data from us! I wouldn't use that stuff in a cement kiln!".... "There was a guy who cut open Filter X (with a sawzall) and the anti-drainback valve was orange! It used to be black! Chinese junk!" Good stuff.

The video for the Ford 7.3 tear down is up. He's not a fan of the oil pump design. This one died from the known cam/lifter failure issue. For some reason this site is not letting me embed a link but here it is to copy/paste: https://youtu.be/4Memby-jB9I?si=SmK1VuBgZ7UgsZCz

This guy is a custom engine builder, both diesel and gas. He recently posted this vid of a tear down of an L8T for rebuild. Seems to like a lot of what he sees We Tore Down GM’s Biggest Gas V8… Here’s What We Found It's a bit of a long video, bottom line it's a very well built engine but in this case, excessive heat in the rear cylinders can be a problem.

This is good info/detail. Thank you for laying it out.

ISO-9001 certified means they have a process and they follow it... doesn't mean it's a good process.

Can't we all just get along...

1500's only for the service mode, and I think that is only for the parking brake shoe. You will need a bi-directional scan tool to reset the brake wear indicator (and new wear sensors, they are a wear-out part as the pad thins). Other than that, nothing special. I did both fronts and rears on my '21 2500 to get rid of the dammmm squealing from the factory pads.

And then 5 years from now, a law firm pockets 66% of the funds and each owner gets a check for $28

Unfortunately you probably did piss away that money due to marketing and internet forums. Catch cans, while they do something, don't really do anything to prevent valve buildup in DI engines. I've posted it on here before, there was an actual independent engineering test/study done and the empirical evidence shows blow-by is not the source of valve deposits. It's primarily due to exhaust gas reversion caused by the variable valve timing which is done to create EGR flow to improve emissions. This happens mostly at light load and with cooler engine temps (aka short trips). Your fire suppression guy is hauling ass on the highway all the time, so he's not operating in that condition most of the time. Yes, a catch can does stop some amount of oil mixed with a larger amount of water vapor, but it won't affect the formation of valve deposits to any real degree. Having said that, I won't tell anyone not to use a can. If it makes you feel better to use one, by all means use one. It can't hurt... unless you forget to empty it and the engine sucks in a big enough slug of water.

Perfect summary of these things.

Ahhh.. adding clearance makes sense. I was going to ask how you'd deal with the quart of fluid that would end up on top of the plate if you pulled that plug with the plate in place.

The new GMC Speilcoog 1500. Deona trim level. From the exhaust design, it's probably that new twin-engine format the AI's have been botting about.

At almost 5 years and 55k miles, frame and diff are still black and waxy. I lived in the "north" for my first 35 years. I'm never moving back.

Carbon fiber/ceramic. I just did a pad swap. Still did the recommended pad break-in/burnish per Powerstop's directions.

I ended up putting power stop pads on all four corners. Left the stock rotors. It's been silent ever since.