Well sign me up. On the jobsite today, I pulled up to a storm pond the crew was working on, shut the engine off and spent about 5-6 minutes there. When I returned, truck started but no marker around the PRNDL. Then received a Stabiltrak warning and "drive at reduced speed". CEL also illuminated. Shut off and restarted. Gear marker returned but truck now in limp mode. Drove a short distance and shut down. Restarted and only CEL illuminated. Drove to another site a short distance away with truck still in limp mode.. Parked and completed what I came to originally do. Took about 30 minutes. Restarted and everything is clear, truck in normal mode. Code reader showing 0700 and 0073 codes. Plan to remove codes and see what's next. I did install a catch can last Saturday but I'm guessing I have a ground problem too.
I'm just going to piggy back on this thread as I too utilized the deal Joe put out to the Forum. Spoke with "Steve" several times prior to Joe's offer as I tried to decide which route to take. He spent a good deal of time answering my many questions and in the end, they got my business. As has been stated, a very simple install, well made and shipping was very fast but I live Fla. so it didn't have to travel very far. Here's a finished install pic.
I'm not sure how well any type of oil acts as a sealant so yes I'm referring to premature wear and deposit buildup on the rings. Aside from a holed piston, blow-by gets into the crankcase in three spots. Between the cylinder wall and ring face/lands, the ring grooves on the piston and the ring gap itself. From what we are bombarded with about oil, the highest quality stuff contains an additive package to combat buildup of carbon in these areas as well as prevent excessive wear. That in turn helps keep blow-by at a manageable level or so it would seem. This of course predisposes that one renews (changes) this magical fluid on a regular and timely basis. There's the "rub" so to speak. I'm still on the fence with this can but my interest has peaked with the thought of using it to monitor my blow-by amounts as the engine ages and to get a better feel on the emission designs built into this engine. A lot to ponder at this point.
Well then in an effort to stay on point, it appears by this statement that if your engine is in good shape, you should have minimal oil in the blow-by gas so the question is..... What constitutes "minimal"? I read an article on emission system design that stated that an engine in fine tune should have a measured blow-by oil content of 1gram or less per hour under load. That would equate to a little over 3.5 ounces every 100hrs. if I did the math correct. One might want to measure the can droppings based on an hourly drain rather than mileage to see if they're in that ball park. If the results are higher, then logic would indicate a poorly designed motor or bad sealing aka rings. I'm leaning toward the latter. If so then the use of quality oil and filter with consistent change times may provide just as much protection as the can itself. A lot to ingest and think about with these motors.
So I find a 180 degree stat and install. Do I need to alter/adjust/change any computer settings (which I currently cannot do) in order to "benefit" from the stat change? That's about as thought provoking as I'm capable of at this point
I understand the desire not to run a can when you live within pissin' distance of the North Pole. I get chilled just thinking about it. I come from 30 miles south of Miami so..... That stated, I'm thinking colder surfaces inside the can should remove a greater percentage of oil from the crank case vapor. I'm still on the fence here but were I to install a can, I've been trying to think through where I'd actually locate the can and how to plumb it in for accessibility.
Since we're on the topic of cold air, would not a can located in a cooler/colder area have a better collection rate than one placed in a warm/hot environment? I understand the practicality of locating within the engine bay but logic would dictate a higher quantity of oil would condense in a cooler can. Thoughts.
Well after re-reading the manual and visual conformation, plus several threads on this Forum, it appears the drive (3.1) falls in the category of "not all iPods and USB drives are compatible with the USB port" which appears to be a 2.0. Oh well.
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