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  1. 11 points
    Yes lots of people have... You take your 2 wheel drive truck to the chevy dealer and pick out the 4x4 truck that you like best, negotiate a price and whatever you lose out on trading in your 2 wheel drive will be much less than the nightmare of trying to upgrade your 2 wheel drive to 4x4 by buying parts....
  2. 5 points
    I had a bit of spare time a couple years ago during the hottest week of the year and figured it would be a great time to do some hot weather tuning and while I was at it, a further eval of the cooling system. I collected a bunch of temp data some may find useful. I posted some similar data a couple of years ago but it was limited to a single “after” run with a couple of mods allowing people to pontificate upon what they thought the “before” results would have been with the stock cooling system. Unfortunately side-arguments were started by people who don’t understand how the cooling system works and it overwhelmed the information provided in the thread. So here’s a second try. This time I collected enough data from enough configurations there’s really no room for any argument, just the results, just what the data show. For the sake of simplicity we’ll compare two runs, one run with the completely stock cooling system and the other configuration the one I recommend for those towing heavy loads in the mountains in the summer with 2014+ V8 trucks—with two simple mods, a 180 thermostat and more aggressive fan settings in the tune. Two of the most common tropes on the internet regarding cooling systems are “the thermostat doesn’t do anything as soon as the engine is ‘warmed up’ so it won’t make a difference,” and “the fans don’t do anything at highway speed.” Both are simply very wrong, for a multitude of reasons. While it’s possible to conceive of specific situations in which one or the other modification won’t be of benefit, the vast majority of drivers (probably on the order of 99.999% if both mods are done together) will never run into one of these situations while running hotter than they’d like. The data below speak for themselves. As I’m sure some are wondering, runs were also made with the 180 thermostat and stock fan settings along with the stock thermostat and modded fan settings. The results were unsurprising, showing one mod helpful in some situations, the other mod helpful in others, but neither mod alone fully effective in all situations. Putting the two together makes each more effective and gives significantly improved cooling performance in all situations which is why I recommend both. This post is long enough and will be confusing enough to many readers already so sticking to comparing the two configs for now is probably a good idea. But keep in mind when I explain and attribute parts of the results to one thing or the other, I’m not making it up, I have the data to support the conclusions. Here are the stock fan settings: And with the 180 Thermostat these setting were used: A snapshot close to the top with the stock system: A snapshot close to the top in the modded config: Cliff’s notes results: Those were the peak temps reached by each fluid. As you can see, the modified configuration dropped peak temps across the board by about 20 degrees. Peak temps of course, don’t tell the whole story. Looking at the data in more detail is instructive. Each run was 20 miles up a mountain pass. The first 15 miles has a decent slope with the last 5 miles or so getting pretty steep—more than a 5% grade. The long runs ensure all fluids had plenty of time to be fully warmed up and find their steady-state on the moderate slope before the steepest final five miles. Ambient temps were right around 92 degrees most of the way up the hill on all runs. Also of note, the runs were made with the cruise on 65 MPH in Tow/Haul Mode for most of the way, but on each run the last ½ mile or so required reduced vehicle speed due to traffic at the top of the hill. Here is an elevation profile of roughly the last 10 miles of the run. Each chart only shows the last 10 miles of each run to better show the differences as the first 10 of each is pretty boring and just takes up space. Note this was not intended to be any sort of “ultimate torture” test or “proof test,” indicating success on this test would insure the cooling system can handle anything. I’ve towed heavier loads up longer, steeper passes and many south of here have done that in much hotter weather (but not while collecting data with a laptop). This was a comparison test to show the differences in performance of the cooling system configurations. Temps headed in the wrong direction on this test, even if they didn’t quite get out of control, should be a red flag for more severe use. Coolant Temp: Here you can see that after the first 10 miles of steady state climb (beginning of the chart), the cooling system is doing pretty well in both configurations and the thermostats are not even fully open (thus the ~25 degree advantage for the 180 thermo). That’s pretty good news, especially for those with the stock system who live where it’s flatter and any hills encountered when towing will be of moderate slope and/or length. When the hill gets steep for the last five miles, the cooling system needs to start working much harder. As both thermostats open more fully, the advantage of the 180 thermo of the modified configuration is slowly negated so the temps converge a bit, but the higher fan speeds of that config still give the system more cooling capacity—along with the stock thermostat not being open 100% until the very end of the test. As you can see, even running full blast up the steepest part of the hill, the modified config tops out in temp, reaching a new steady state. The hill could have gone on forever and it would not have gotten any hotter. Then when vehicle speed is reduced, temp comes down immediately. It is clear the fans played a key role with the modded config as the temp rise stops as the fans approach full speed. Programmed to reach full speed at 212 degrees, the temp stops rising 5 degrees short of that, so the fans get cranked up pretty high, but never quite actually get to full speed, indicating there’s still a little cooling capacity left in the system that would require a tougher test to utilize. If it was possible to program the fans to reach full speed at a lower temp (without them running full speed all the time, which I deem unacceptable for general use) it’s very possible lower peak temps would have been maintained with this thermostat. It’s also possible a slightly higher temp thermostat would have resulted in similar peak temps with these same fan settings. But you can’t use these fan settings with the stock thermostat (it's just too high) unless you want them blasting all the time. The temp for the stock config is still climbing when running at full speed and when vehicle speed is reduced to 50 MPH or so, the temp spikes quickly. Had the steep part of the hill been any longer there’s no telling how high the temp would have climbed. It didn’t quite make it to the danger zone in this test but it’s easy to see how it could in a tougher test. I personally have no interest in ever letting my coolant get into the 230-240 degree range and it’s clear with the stock config that would have happened with a heavier trailer, steeper hill or hotter ambient temps. Other vehicles begin going into various protected modes at such temps. For example, the EcoDiesel will begin “defueling” when the temp hits 244 and you’ll begin slowing down to 18-wheeler speed. The modded config on this truck provides a huge margin of safety before reaching such temps. When vehicle speed is reduced, the stock fan settings really hurt the stock setup. It is very common for speeds to be limited by traffic or road safety when towing and this shows that while increased fan speed helps significantly even at 65 MPH, it’s really, really needed at ~50 MPH. In some states there’s a 55 MPH speed limit when towing a trailer and sometimes there’s just too much traffic to go any faster. Many also tow on gravel/dirt roads, mountain trails, etc, where vehicle speed is kept low even when the engine is working hard. For those conditions the fan settings are even more crucial than they were in this test. Given these results, the engine cooling system seems to be more than adequate on these trucks, even without the NHT radiator. All one needs to do is “turn it on” a bit more aggressively with the lower temp thermostat and fans that don’t wait until you’re close to a meltdown before they crank on with some authority. I see no other mods needed for engine temp control in any situation. Oil Temp: Since the oil cooler is an oil/water cooler located in the cool tank of the radiator—so water temps have a direct effect on its effectiveness--it’s not surprising the oil temps stayed proportional to the water temps, beginning about 20 degrees cooler for the modified setup and converging a bit as water temps converged on the steep part. Again, the modified config found a new steady state in the middle of the most difficult part, indicating the hill could have gone on forever and temps would have risen no further. The stock setup, however, allows the oil temp to keep rising until the end of the hill—had the hill gone on another few miles, how much higher would the temp have climbed? 250 degrees on this test indicates it could get really toasty under harder use with the stock setup. For good fully synthetic oil (I run Redline) 250 is no big deal for short periods if infrequent. I don’t worry about the oil temp at all on my Camaro until it exceeds 300…but then again I change the oil on my Camaro after a single day at the track and don’t rack up that many miles on the engine so engine wear is less of a concern. I don’t think many people change the oil in their truck every time they tow something up a hill, so if you’re cooking the oil on a regular basis and still trying to run it 10,000 miles between changes, keeping the temps down a bit might be a good idea. 0W-20 is thin as water at regular temps, at 250+ it simply won’t protect as well as thicker oils of the same type. Yes, it reduces wear at startup, especially in cold weather, but it can’t do that and also be optimum for really high temps—so trying to prevent it from reaching such high temps is a good idea. For those who drive a truck for a couple years before trading it in it might not be so concerning, but for those who want to keep a truck long past the warranty period and put on a lot of miles, reducing engine wear is a smart thing to do. Using the EcoDiesel as an example again, it begins defueling when the oil hits 266 degrees indicating they feel that is very bad for the engine. Given these results, the stock oil cooler shows it is pretty effective. When the water in the radiator is kept to a reasonable temp in the modded config, the oil cooler is plenty adequate for keeping the oil temps in check. I don’t see a need for adding an aftermarket cooler or modding the stock system in any way, just keep the engine from running too hot when it’s working hard. Trans Temp: Here you can see on the moderate portion of the hill, the mods only made a small difference. Since most (or even all in some conditions) of the cooling comes from the air/oil cooler in the system, and the trans fluid cooling system has its own thermostat, lower water temps only have a small secondary effect on trans temps so the engine thermostat change alone won’t do much. And before the trans fluid thermostat is wide open, the increased fan speed only has a small effect. As the trans warms up, the increased fan speeds do help obviously as you can see the results begin to diverge as the hill gets really steep. In the stock config, the temp was climbing quickly all the way to the top. If the hill was longer, there’s no telling when it would stop. While for a shorter period of time than the other fluids, the temp does reach somewhat of a steady state temp in the modded config before vehicle speed is reduced indicating if the hill went on forever the temp should stay close constant. And the temp is low enough even if it gains another couple degrees, it’s a non-issue. The most worrisome part of the results for the stock system is the huge temperature spike at the top of the hill where vehicle speed is reduced. With the fans humming along in the modded config, there is no large temperature spike. This is an especially important thing for people to note who tow at lower speeds as described above. Towing in traffic is especially hard on the transmission as the on gas/off gas nature keeps the converter unlocking and slipping all the time, creating a lot of heat. The same can be said for winding roads/mountain trails. Unfortunately there are not separate fan settings in the computer based upon tranny temp, you need to get them on indirectly by assuming any time the transmission wants to get hot the engine will be warm enough that the modded fan settings I show above will have kicked in. This should work for most situations but it is possible (towing at low speeds, especially in very cold weather) that won’t always be the case. For pure highway towing the mods I listed above should be adequate. Keeping the transmission temps below 210 degrees in a test like this keeps you way out of the danger zone and nothing else is really needed. However, if you do tow at lower speeds a lot it may be worth it to you to add another layer of protection. The easiest way to do that is to bypass the stock tranny fluid thermostat and splice in an aftermarket one. This should have a similar effect as the lower thermostat does for the engine temp—giving it a lower baseline temp 95% of the time and keeping max temps lower by simply “turning on” the trans cooler a larger percentage of the time in mixed use and earlier during sustained hard pulls. I would not recommend simply bypassing the stock thermostat without replacing it with something. There’s really no advantage to running these modern transmissions colder than 180 or so and some disadvantages, especially in winter use. According to the data so far, the stock air/oil cooler seems adequate so I see no reason to advocate adding a larger aftermarket cooler at this point. But I don’t yet have any data for the system with a lower temp trans thermostat or lower speed testing. I’ll probably do that at some point and try to collect data in situations where the above mods might not be enough. Given the testing so far, I do think it would be very difficult to come up with a scenario where the above mods and the addition of a new tranny fluid thermostat are not enough to keep temps under control and wouldn’t advocate going to the hassle and potential downsides of installing a new cooler until some sort of data indicated it was needed. But more testing in this area is needed. Conclusions: For a 2014+ truck with a V8, even with the non-NHT radiator, I conclude the following for towing in hot weather where steep hills/mountain passes will push the cooling system to the max of its capabilities, in stock configuration and with two mods—a 180 degree engine thermostat and reprogrammed fans. Engine temp: In stock config the system is adequate for all but the harshest of conditions (harder than the above test). However there is indication a harder test could drive engine temps dangerously close to overheating, even if it doesn’t get to the point of spewing steam, it will come too close for comfort for many owners. With the two mods, the stock cooling system should be completely adequate for any situation. Engine oil temp: In stock config, the system is not adequate to keep engine oil temps in the range many users would like for longevity and in a tougher test could reach temps where warning messages appear, oil life is reduced, engine wear is increased, etc. With the two mods, engine oil temps are kept in check and the stock system should be adequate for any situation. Trans Temp: In stock config, the system is not adequate to keep trans temps in the range many users would like for longevity and in a tougher test could reach temps where warning messages appear, fluid life would be reduced and transmission could risk damage. In the modded config, trans temps are kept in check and the system should be adequate for any highway-speed condition where transmission heat is due to longer, sustained hard work as the engine temps will also rise triggering an increase in fan speed. The above test does not guarantee the system will be adequate in all lower speed conditions, especially in cold weather where the engine might stay cold enough the fans will not speed up (unless you have them programmed to stay blasting all the time which is not recommended for various other reasons). More testing and possibly other mods required (lower temp trans thermostat, larger cooler if high temps are still reached after that). One caveat for the entire cooling system overall is that these tests were done with the 6.2. It’s reasonable to suspect they might not have been as good (for each config) if tested on a 5.3 which will need higher RPM and lower gears to maintain speed going up steep hills. For a given load and a given hill, the 5.3 just needs to work harder than the 6.2. This does tend to put more heat in the fluids and I believe everybody thus far who has reported here getting warning messages when towing up passes and had to slow down has had the 5.3—even with the NHT radiator. So for concerned 5.3 owners I’d say look at the above results with the fact all temps may have been higher with a 5.3 in mind, making the mods an even better idea for the smaller engine. Another caveat is that this truck does not have those fantastic grill shutters…. I’ve done zero investigation into how those are operated and how much restriction they add even when open. Any restriction to airflow through the radiator only makes fan power more important, so if anything they would result in an even larger difference between the two configurations. One of the more important things this test reveals, is just how lucky we are. GM did a pretty good job on the cooling system of these trucks and big N/A V8’s are generally easier to keep cool than smaller turbo motors. Most never have any issue in completely stock form, and with a couple of simple mods that “turn on” the cooling system a bit sooner, we can work these trucks hard without worry, no matter the load, no matter the ambient temp. Other brands don’t have it so good. Before buying this truck, I was heavily looking at both the Ford Ecoboost and the Ram Ecodiesel. Both of those trucks have serious issues in tests like this. The Ram has it much worse—they run into the defueling conditions even with lesser loads on lesser hills and even in cool weather. It is very unlikely one of those could have completed this test without having to slow down to the 30-40 MPH range ½ way up the hill. They simply aren’t remotely as capable as these trucks are. Some owners spend money on bigger radiators, intercoolers, aftermarket oil coolers, different grills for more airflow, etc, but most simply seem satisfied to slow down to the 30-40 MPH range on big hills. They sure do get great mileage though. The Ecoboosts don’t have it quite that bad (they’re much more capable trucks), but they do commonly have issues. Heavy loads up long passes in high ambient temps—especially at high altitude—commonly heats them up to the point they enter “Reduced Engine Power” mode where the engine begins cutting boost until the turbos are basically shut off. Owners of these tucks also spend money on bigger radiators, intercoolers, aftermarket oil coolers, etc, but even with all that, nothing seems to “fix” the issue. We don’t need to worry about any of that. Owners commonly force downshifts to increase the engine RPM as a matter of course (sort of negates that whole “low RPM torque tows just like a big diesel” bragging point). Lots of Ecodiesel and Ecoboost owners end up upgrading to heavy duty trucks (usually of the same brand as they are loyal) simply due to frustration of overheating issues when the trucks are worked hard. It’s nice we don’t have to worry about that. Good job, GM.
  3. 5 points
    Swapped out my Gear Selector with one that has the leather trim on it. Just the minor attention to detail. LOL Side by side: Factory Leather appointment trim: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. 5 points
    I got teased pretty good for adding the roll bar and lights to my '14, but I like it, so I don't care. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
  5. 4 points
    Finally got my console installed and I love it and everything works fine Thanks to pgamboa. Johnny01: Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  6. 4 points
  7. 3 points
    I posted this in the black silverado/Sierra section but thought I’d post here too. 3 hours later and the beast is looking pretty damn good. 2015 Silverado LT Midnight Edition 4.5” CST suspension lift Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. 3 points
    3 hours later..... 2015 Silverado LT Midnight Edition 4.5” CST suspension lift Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. 3 points
    You can’t take it with you in the end. Enjoy life and the outdoors with friends and family. At some point one has to decide what the memories you create are worth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. 3 points
    Well it may be the start of more turbo options to come from the general.....Damm you Ford !!!! lol. Me thinks if the General hangs some turbo's off the 4.3 v-6 in the Future for a option.......Ford you are toast .
  11. 3 points
    Nothing to be sad about! I think the General is going out of its way to keep loyal customers like you and me happy. They're keeping all of the current engines and introducing a couple of new choices. You can still have a 5.3 and I can have another 4.3! I am quite intrigued by the new 4 cylinder gas engine and will be interested to see if they are a significant upgrade in economy, durability and performance over the current V6.
  12. 3 points
    This is sad. I would expect garbage like this from Ram or Toyota, but not the General. Why would a sane person pony up extra money for an over complicated 4 cyl when they could buy a 5.3 that's more reliable and cheaper to build. Makes no sense. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. 3 points
    Just installed my DL3 Mirrors with the harness I got from pgamboa... clean OEM install. FYI. My buddy did this w/out Phil’s harness and it was a nightmare. Took me about 3 hrs total. Took him 3 days.
  14. 3 points
    Here is the best trick ever: In front of the passenger on the face of the dash is a handle. Pull that and a small door will open (older folks call this a "glove box"). Inside that compartment you should find a thick white book. Read it. For you younger tech-savvy people you can also get a pdf version on the manufacturer's website.
  15. 3 points
    They are very different engines, both with advantages and disadvantages. Some may like one better than the other for very real reasons, unfortunately there is so much fanboyism it's hard for prospective buyers to actually learn the differences so they can make an informed choice. The Ecoboost's ability to tow at low RPM can make for a more pleasant towing experience. While for the most part it is mental, it does have some real advantages. When towing lots of weight up a hill, 6.2 needs to find the right gear so it may hunt gears a bit more and with older 6-speed trucks the right gear might not exist resulting it it being slower up the hill. The 6-speeds need a tune improving shift points and/or gears in order to be able to keep up in the toughest tests. This issue has largely been eliminated with the 8-speed and now 10-speed transmissions. With them, the right gear always exists so the 6.2 can maintain the speed limit towing pretty much anything you'd ever want to tow with a 1/2 ton up the steepest of hills, so "towing power" isn't really an issue. While most fanboys may not ever work the truck hard enough to run into it, the Ecoboost does have a major disadvantage towing heavy loads in the mountains, especially at high altitude, especially in hot weather--COOLING. Many Ecoboost owners have eventually gotten rid of theirs simply due to frustrations with overheating when they're worked hard. Here's a visual: Issues like this are way too common. If you look at the Ecoboost towing forums, there are tons of threads about heat issues. Heavy loads up long passes in high ambient temps—especially at high altitude—commonly heats them up to the point they enter “Reduced Engine Power” mode where the engine begins cutting boost until the turbos are basically shut off. Owners commonly force downshifts to increase the engine RPM as a matter of course (sort of negates that whole “low RPM torque tows just like a big diesel” bragging point). Owners of these tucks also spend money on bigger radiators, intercoolers, aftermarket oil coolers, etc, but even with all that, nothing seems to “fix” the issue. Contrast that with the lack of threads here about overheating issues. It's really not an issue for us. While they may heat up more than I'd like in stock form, most users won't notice and/or view it as a problem as it's pretty rare to even get a warning message (usually hot transmission or engine oil) and the idea of boost being cut and the truck slowing down is something we never have to deal with. And a couple simple, cheap mods is all it takes to make our trucks stay very cool comparativelyin these conditions. I posted some in-depth test results evaluating the cooling system here: I think the fact it has largely been greeted with crickets is evidence that most GM owners never give the cooling system a second thought because they never have problems. That's a serious advantage the 6.2 has over the Ecoboost. While cooling is the big one, the 6.2 does have a couple more advantages. Mileage when towing is one. You can have Eco or you can have Boost. You can't have both at the same time. Gas engines under boost need to run richer mixtures than N/A engines to keep from blowing up. That's just a fact of life. When towing moderate loads, especially if there are any hills, you can generally expect better mileage from the 6.2 than the Ecoboost is going to give you. Another is sound. This might be even more mental than towing at low RPM, but it can be important to some. Not needing fake engine noise pumped in through the speakers in order to keep the truck from sounding like a large vacuum cleaner might not be the biggest deal to some, but it can be to others.
  16. 3 points
    2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L 4.5" Zone 22x10 American Force Grips 33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers Instagram @wildchevys
  17. 2 points
    Last picture of my truck on these rims most likely.
  18. 2 points
    Great! Just simply great! Hehe.
  19. 2 points
    Not for my truck, but the next one will be. Wired up this 6 relay/fuse box for additional accessories. Simple power, ground, switch input and accessory output connections. I've got a circuit breaker for the main power also. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  20. 2 points
    He sent it to me, I'll post it for him lol
  21. 2 points
    Had a couple of hours to burn... DVD/BluRay Retrofit - Work in Progress. The Cd Player has a different input connector than the DVD/BluRay so I had to do some repinning. While at it, I added the JL Audio Bass Knob, new RCA Cables for the Axxess DSP, and new Glove Box. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. 2 points
    (Yes, this is really us ordering our truck!) Zane Merva Executive Editor, GM-Trucks.com 5/17/18 Someone ring the bell, today is the day that you can waltz on down to your Chevrolet and/or GMC dealer, sit down with a sales rep, and option out / submit the order for your brand new 2019 Silverado or Sierra. Now, that said, you'll be shooting blind, as GM hasn't let us know yet how much the 2019's are going to cost. In fact, we don't even know how much horsepower the engines will be rated at..... BUT, we can in fact order them. So, GM-Trucks.com did. Here's what we found out. What You CAN Order As of today, (May 17th, 2018), you can place an order for an LT, LT Trail Boss, RST, LTZ, or High Country for Silverado and only SLT/Denali for Sierra. Crew cabs are up first and are the only cab you can get as of today. Nearly every regular option is available to be ordered but specific trims have a better shot at being produced than unique combinations. What You CANNOT Order Reports of dealers offering to place orders for diesel engines are floating around on on our 2019 Silverado/Sierra Owners Facebook Group. The facts are, while a dealer can take your money for a deposit, they won't be able to order a new light-duty diesel yet. You also won't be able to order double cab or regular cab trucks. Be Careful! As of today, dealers know exactly how many new trucks they can order and how many of each color they can order. If you're submitting an order, make sure your dealership has the open allocation for both the truck AND the color you want. Meet GM-Trucks.com's 2019 Chevrolet Silverado In the interest of research and keeping the community informed, we marched on down to the dealer late this morning to talk shop and place an order. We have a lot of plans for our new 2019 that you'll hear about in a few months, so picking out the right trim was a little tougher than we thought. Although the LT Trail Boss was extremely tempting, we knew we needed the 6.2L, which you can't get on the Trail Boss. So strike that out. And, while the High Country was right up our alley, we didn't want to get what will likely be the most expensive Silverado ever sold either. That pretty much made us land squarely in the middle of the two and in the end we decided the LTZ trim level was right for our needs. It allows us to get the 6.2L V8 (of which we strangely don't know the output of yet) and GM's all new 10-speed automatic transmission. We also wanted to get a truck that was at least as nice as our 2011 GMC Sierra SLT All-Terrain. We love our heated leather seats and Bose audio on our 2011 and our new truck needed to have these options too. So, with that all in mind... here's how we optioned things out once we sat down to the table. -------------------------------------- 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD Crew Cab LTZ Northsky Blue Metallic Jet BLack Leather Interior Trim 6.2L V8 - L87 / 10-speed transmission - MQB Z71 Off-Road Package LTZ Preferred Equipment Group - 1LZ LTZ Convenenience Package - PCZ LTZ Convenenience Package II - PCN LTZ Plus Package - PDF Safety Package - PQB Power Up/Down Tailgate - QT6 20-inch Polished Wheels - RD2 Bose Sound System - UQA Premium Nav/Infotainment System - IOT -------------------------------------- Some of the cool stuff included in these packages Heated and ventilated front seats Heated Rear Outboard Seats Two 120-volt outlets (one inside, one in bed) HD Rear Vision Camera Rear Sliding Window Front/Rear Park Assist Rear Cross Traffic Alert / Side Blind Zone Alert We did not get Bedliner or rubber floor matts Heads up display or 360-degree camera Any accessories, step bars, or covers. (We have plans for all that stuff!) A sunroof (a weak attempt to save money) Our problem right now is that we don't know how much this truck will cost. We do have a general idea though. Based on 2018 pricing, we expect the MSRP on our 2019 to land between $54-56k dollars. All that's left is for the order to be submitted to GM (which the dealer's ordering guy will handle soon) and for GM to accept the order (who knows when?!). Production for our vehicle is expected to take place in late July or early August. Of course, we'll keep everyone in the loop on any updates we get as the process moves along. If you want to buy one of the first new Silverado or Sierra, this is the week you'll want to visit your dealer. Here's our actual order sheet listing the options we picked out Shout Out To Our Dealer I have to mention we wouldn't have been able to do ANY of this without some serious support from a dealer. Our dealer for this order is Banks Chevrolet in Concord, New Hampshire. The Sales Manager, Jeremy Chapman, and our Sales Consultant, Jeffrey Lavalley have gone out of their way to answer our detailed questions and work with us to get GM-Trucks.com a sick new project truck. Thank you Banks!
  23. 2 points
    2in RC level, added 305/55/20 Toyo OC A/T2s and finally washed the truck. I have a little rubbing at full lock on the carpet fender lining but so far so good.
  24. 2 points
    Got rid of my cloth seats that the dogs ruined and upgraded to Katzkin leather. Dogs now ride in the bed
  25. 2 points
    Well took the Cobalt and left it at a dealer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  26. 2 points
    I wound up getting the nicer lighted mirrors from 1A Auto. Thanks to pgamboa's clearance lamp workaround video I got the amber light to work. Very happy with the results. Once I can save up some money I will be getting the harnesses to do it the right way.
  27. 2 points
    Kind of how apple does things with Android. Android gets the features first, but apple always knocks it out of the park when they get similar features a year or so later Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  28. 2 points
    The sponsor (fiancé) bought me this today as wedding gift. She told me I need a place to put all my tools to build the truck and her Jeep. God I love that women. Can’t wait until the wedding next weekend. Oh home depot is having a Memorial Day sale. Reg 798 got it for 598 and 10% more off for veterans discount. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  29. 2 points
    You don't want to act like a 5th grader but are calling people snowflakes because they don't agree with you. Just making sure I read that right.
  30. 2 points
    I’ve had my 015 since new pops up randomly every now and then. For awhile I was convinced it was set to the first of the month but it was just dumb luck in my case that’s when it was coming on. Then I was convinced it was after the truck sat so many days without being driven (I don’t use drive it in the winter) cause it would pop up every time I would start it. Now I’m convinced it’s every so many cycles of the starter. By this time next year I’m sure I’ll be convinced it’s something eles... I do know if you don’t push ok it won’t go away. One time I drove 30 miles to work with it on, shut the truck off came back 8 hours later to drive home and it was still on. So I went ahead and pushed OK cause l wanted to listen to the radio again... The next one you’ll really like when you get in start it up and out of no where you here the nice On Stupid lady say “ this vehicle is connected to OnStar limited services” ... If you try and talk to her though she won’t say anything eles. I’ve sweet talked her, I’ve talked dirty to her, and I’ve called her names yet nothing. It’s like she’s my Bizarro wife cause if I do any of these to my real wife in the truck I get yelled at... Isn’t technology great ...
  31. 2 points
    Gave my little girl company in the back seat by installing her little brother's car seat base. Then he got his first ride in the truck.
  32. 2 points
    Because you still can't do it right Lift out but tap when still over the tube. If that doesn't work rotate it 180 degrees so it faces up. Don't fight Gravity, make it work for you.
  33. 2 points
    I see it every once in awhile. It's most likely on a timed/pre-programmed schedule. Makes the lawyers at GM sleep better at night. Press OK and continue to stare at Google Maps while you drive
  34. 2 points
    Higher horsepower and torque than the V6 it replaces. The 'GMAuthority' website says: "The 2.7-liter turbo engine will be paired with an eight-speed automatic transmission and produce an SAE-certified 310 horsepower and 348 pound-feet of torque. Those figures handily outdo the V6 engine, which makes 285 hp and 305 lb-ft of torque. Chevrolet also said the turbo-four engine will provide greater fuel efficiency and a better power-to-weight ratio than the current truck’s LT variant" Read more: http://gmauthority.com/blog/2018/05/2019-silverado-engines-chevrolet-announces-2-7l-turbo-four-cylinder-for-full-size-truck/#ixzz5Fu3fH5L3
  35. 2 points
    The Axxess AX-DSP seems to do the same thing as the Maestra. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  36. 2 points
    Looking at the connector colors on GMLAN10, that may be the harness for the IOB radios. I have IO6 and 8” display. GMLAN09 looks to be what I need. I made my own T-Harness prior but obviously, the DSP is needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  37. 2 points
    It was a take off and didn’t look for a part #. But if I had to guess and order one..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  38. 2 points
    This one was fairly simple. Remove wheel tilt handle, upper/lower shroud, torx bit for handle. Took 5, maybe 10 minutes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  39. 2 points
    Such a beautiful shot man! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  40. 2 points
    My local dealership can order two tomorrow. I will be ordering a White LT Trailboss.
  41. 2 points
    Ok so got installed and been testing it out. So far I found 1 item that was acting up. Seems that if you vehicle specific your truck, it taps into the canbus data and acts a little funny. What I mean by this when you play music and hit your turnsignal or another chime It cuts off sound and mutes where a chime would be. The fix for this is to make the specific vehicle generic and not your actual vehicle. This will allow chime to be normal level not lower like it was but will allow the Audio to play no matter what like oem did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  42. 2 points
    I never understood the allure of these. Does it really take that much time to grab a wrench and remove a bolt? Lol
  43. 2 points
    This is a real post? I drove my truck yesterday.
  44. 2 points
    Got a tint done all around: Having an RC 2" level and new rims/tires put on next week. After that plans are: put on black GM bowties, black widow muffler and resonator delete, and then after that save up for 2.5" coilovers, camburg arms, and rear shocks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  45. 2 points
    What year? at a minimum you would need: front diff cv shafts front drive shaft transmission? Unless you can remove 2wd tail piece and mate transfercase to existing transmission. transfer case shorter rear drive shaft dealer flash to tell truck it is a 4wd (if possible) 4x4 dash switch I’d sell 2wd and look for a 4wd :-)
  46. 2 points
    1000x vote for this lol. I’m about to pull the trigger on the katzkin anyways.(eBay retail for 550.00 + 20 for shipping)
  47. 2 points
    Ok all installed. When you hook it up and sub doesn’t work you will need to switch to use front and rear. You will know what I mean when you look at the the app. If you use oem radio you will need this to get sub signal. Other option is only for aftermarket radios. I took a small piece of electrical tape and made sure all rcas stay tight together. Make sure before you connect the remote wire connect the ax dsp and turn the chime down. You will regret if you don’t. In order to save settings make sure to lock it down in config area. My Hertz HCX 6x9s and Hertz HCX 6.5s have come alive. I will say the sub channel signal was double what it used to be for sensitivity as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  48. 2 points
    Here you go: Wheels turned to the point of minimum clearance (9 o'clock to the left / right on steering wheel) still has 1 inch of clearance. multiple trips this weekend with a trash trailer (5k lbs), still was able to get around the yard in tight spaces without rubbing - just avoided the last 2-3 inches of full lock on the steering wheel.
  49. 2 points
  50. 2 points
    I do make a harness with the pins on each end to land this to their OEM locations. For the power, it has a dedicated spot on the X51L Fuse Panel (Driver Side Fuse Panel). Also, if you have upgraded to the DL3 Mirrors, there are 2 additional wires (Dimming signals) that come from the Rear View that feed the driver side mirror. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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